They all come from different spots, I give credit where its due. Those last few i forgot to put down the writer

Well then go ahead!

2002 - 2004 WRX Service manual.
 

Have at it!

Service Manual

Thanks to tubbytreats over at WRXFanatics.com!

Paint code my04 WRX
 

Seatcover Removal 2004 +? WRX Sedan/Wagon
 

take the seats out of the car - 4 14mm bolts

flip the seat over and find 4 bolts(12-14mm i think) and remove the bottom cushion from the seat. you'll have to pull some wires off. around the front of the cushion should just pull off the metal pan/tray, its like weather stripping or something like that. ther should be 2 plastic clips on either side and hogrings on the back. after you remove all that, flip the material up and remove the hog rings holding the material down to the top of the seat.

for the lean back...
unzip the zipper inside the headrest hole. at the bottom back there should be plastic clips that clip together, undo them, and unzip the 2 zippers that go vertical along the back. inside along the side, you will find a strip of fabric rapped around the metal frame with a 8 or 10mm nut holding it together. take the nut off and loosen the fabric strips. now, gentally roll the seat cover over the front of the cushion, careful not to rip the cover, exspecially around the corners. now you can remove the hog rings holding the cover down to the top of the cushion.


I recommend NOT doing this if you have no experience in upolstery work. I spent a year recovering factory seats in leather for dealerships and it isn't the easiest thing unless you've done it before. The removal won't be too bad, but putting the covers back on so they look nice will be a pita.


Thanks to Mr Tomtastic for this bit of info, unfortunatly not all of us have the time or the patients to do this. Tried it yesterday, I gave up

Here is a quick how to for boost guage/any guage wiring for lighting. Pics this weekend.

http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/8956/panel7fq.jpg

I used the clock to tap the juice. You have 4 wires total on the back of the clock, LR - YG - PL - B.

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/4894/plug6kg.jpg

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/6153/colors5no.jpg

LR - Blue/Red
YG - Yellow/GReen
PL - Pink/Blue
B - Black

LR - runs to FB8 - runs to direct battery bus. (Excuse the aircraft terminology)

YG - runs to FB26 - runs to ACC/Ignition

PL - runs to FB9 - runs to tail illumination relay.

B - ofcourse ground.

My gauge has 3 wires. Ground, 12 Volt ignition, and Dimming.

I used FB26 - (YG) for 12 volt during key on

FB9 - for dimming, guage dims when lights are turned on due to tail illumination relay.

and duh, B for ground.

DO NOT use FB8!!! guage will be very very dim when your car is off.

I plan on using vampire taps if there is room to spare. If anything im going to splice using FAA aproved slices ;)

I guess if you want to run the line, follow the old boost line. I'm having problems pulling off the steering column, I'm calling it quits for today. It's to hot outside. Crotchrot

Here is me jimmy riggn the gauge..



http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/821/jimmyrig7mp.jpg

STi Service Manual
 

Found this manual online in PDF and it seems pretty good!

http://cl50.com/xweb/STi%20Manual/

psshh.. ;)

http://www.ken-gilbert.com/wrx/impreza_manuals.htm

just adding a little for a cleaner install on the boost gauge section. instead of taking out the rubber gromet and running the rubber vac line that way take the rubber gromet out and find a hole punch or something to put a hole in it to run the vac line through the hole. the hole should be just a little smaller so it "seals" around the vac line. this way you wont get any condensation, wind noise, or anything else you dont want in your car in. same goes for running amp wires or anything else coming from the engine bay to the cabin of the car.

proper jack placement / jackstand placement 05 wrx
 

ok this post is for anyone that second guesses everytime they go to jack up a car (an 05 wrx for now) .


if you are just changing a tire then jacking up on the pinch weld is find but at times when you need either the entire front or entire rear of the car in the air then this is how you would do it and know that your car is safe.


Attachment 4370
this is a pic of the front of the car with the splash shield removed. removing the splash shield is not needed, the jack plate is located right after the splash shield or behind the oil pan.



this is a closer pic of what you are going to see.
Attachment 4371

make sure the car is on a hard level surface and you are all set now to jack up the front of the car.


if the car is lowered and the jack is hitting the undersides of the car...

figure out how much room you need to clear the jack and get boards that are high enough to make the clearance. just drive the front wheels up onto the boards and continue jacking up the car.
this pic is after the tire was removed but you can see what i mean.
Attachment 4373



jacking up the back.
there are two ways people do this.
the first is to just jack the car up by the rear diff and the second is the same but with a piece of wood between the jack foot and the diff.

either way works fine its a personal preferance kind of thing.

Attachment 4372



after jacking up a vehicle be sure to use jackstands to secure the car.

in the front of the wrx there are 2 options for jackstands.

this pic is from the passenger side angled forward
Attachment 4374

option 1 is near the pinch weld but its a better spot for the front
option 2 is with the splash shield removed only!!!!!!!!!!!


in the rear of the wrx jackstands should be on the pinchwelds only not the trunkpan like some people try.

wanted to put this pic somewhere on the forum for those who dont understand the layout of the boxer engine/transmission... this is a cutaway obviously so the top is missing... intake manifold would be sitting up top though...

http://members.home.nl/bogink/images/wrx-engine.jpg

never noticed this topic looks good guys. i have a few of these parts collecting dust in my basement right now. im hanging on to my warranty and wanting to get more familar with the car before i modd it. im running a cat back on my sti now and probally be it for a while im building a garage in my backyard right now so its not my biggest priority. but i did have a QUESTION. since im running the cat back should i be worried? i dont need to be tuned to run the cat back or do i?

thanx for the info on the injectors. will make it a lot easier puttin in my pinks now and i dont gotta pay extra when my swap is put in.

Not that many people are doing this. I wrote this up for my STi cam install.

I searched and didn't find to much so I'm writing something up myself. My motor took a dump so I'm doing a 2.5 hybrid and I'm using STi cams. As you know STI cams can be used but the AVCS plugs need to filled. You can either weld them or plug them. I decided to plug them.

First you'll need some supplies

1. Eight (8) 5mmx5mm .8thread set screws
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/DSC_0030.jpg
2. 5mm x.8 pictch tap
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...DSC_0037-1.jpg
3. Red loctite
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/DSC_0035.jpg
4. STi cams
5. Some grease
6. File
7. Carb cleaner
8. 2.5mm allen key

Step one.
Put some grease on the tap and run it down into each hole on the front side of the cam (4 on each cam.) Only the intake cams have these holes. Make sure that after each turn or so you back the tap out to clean off the filings.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/DSC_0034.jpg

Step two.
Make sure that all your holes are deep enough. The set screws want to be just below the surface of the cam. If they are deep enough you want to take the file and clean the face of the cam as when you tap it you'll pull material to the surface. Be carefull to not file the face of the cam to much.

Step three
Take the carb cleaner and clean all the holes with carb cleaner really well and make sure they are dry.

Step four.
Apply red loctite to the the threads of the set screws and screw them into the cam. Seat them just below the surface of the cam face.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/DSC_0101.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/DSC_0108.jpg

Step five.
Enjoy.

diy Badge-less grille
 

this is a DIY post to save yourself the 200.00-300.00 that a badge-less grille would cost.



- remove grille from car

- remove stock mesh, 6 clips on the back of the grille

Attachment 4750
Attachment 4751

- use a dremmel, saw or whatever you want to cut with to cut the emblem out (does not have to be a clean cut)

Attachment 4752
Attachment 4753

- after the center emblem is cut out sand the "left overs" down flush w/ the rest of the grille

- scuff up the grille surfaces and paint, or take to a local body shop and have them paint it

-when the grille is dry re-install the mesh and clips

Attachment 4754

- re-install into the car and your done

i had before and after pics but i can only upload 5 pics at a time so i cant put them in

after pics

Attachment 4755
Attachment 4756

before
Attachment 4757




sorry for the poor picture editing, not really sure what was going on with them

Honest Bob and I put my new pads and rotors on on Sunday. My pedal is really soft now. I'm pretty sure we didn't get air in the lines since we never opened the system. We followed the Hawk break-in directions to the letter too. I'm not sure if the rotors take longer to break in than the pads or if I just need to get stainless lines to get better pedal response.

Rob you should probably start a new thread for that sort of thing.

Agreed. That is the exact opposite of what belongs in here.

To make my post on topic, make sure you bleed the lines in the correct order. Also, if you didn't open the bleeders or unscrew any lines, you shouldn't have introduced air to the lines when changing the pads anyway.

I have a WRX sound tutorial if you'd like, post it all here? or make a new thread?