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View Full Version : Aluminum/Chrome Vandium/etc. lug nuts for track use (not show)


xtnct
02-18-2008, 02:09 PM
I posted this on another site but not getting the feedback that I'm looking for...so I'm trying here.
[ARGH... it will not let me post links here which makes this thread less useful...]
[oh come on...It will not let me post images either.... this thread is almost useless now]

I've been doing some searching and can not find the answers I'm looking for. Got a set of rims for track use and need to buy some lugs for them. I figured it would be nice to get some light aluminum lug nuts but after reading various posts and finding a huge price range and material options and so on.... I'm lost.

Please ignore the nut base shape (cone,oval, etc.) in following examples. I know I have to get the proper shape for my specific rim. This should be a material/quality/price/safety discussion.

My needs: Secure an Enkei rim with R-comp for track use. Things will get hot so I just want them to be strong and not fail on me after repeated heating and cooling cycles or strip prematurely from doing wheel swaps often. Don't care about the looks/finish. Light weight would be nice, but will not spend a premium for it because I'm not racing. Do not need any locking (anti theft) features.

Based on research thus far, I probably want an open ended lug nut because they use less material than the other versions. Less material is less weight no matter what they are made out of (example): image removed

(from: 1010tires)

Like I mentioned, don't need any fancy finish & locking with keys like these:
image removed
(from: machevo)

Now from my search, there are lots of materials and I have no idea of their advantages/disadvantages:
- aluminum (~$40): 1010tires
- forged aluminum (~$150): machevo
- chrome vanadium 28DCRVM ($??): mackinindustries
- Duraluminum (~$130): lancershop

... and I'm sure there are others. I could go by the rule of "you get what you pay for" and that usually works.... but I'd like to limit the budget to under $100.

Should I be scared of the $40 stuff like the 1010tire nuts above and similar that don't even state what they are made of, for example:
Muteki ($42): vividracing
Kyokugen ($50): nyxracing
E-bay stuff ($25) ebay

What about the total low end stuff like:
Gorilla ($20): summitracing
McGard ($25): summitracing
and similar at the local CarQuest/Autozone/PepBoys stuff....
-

igo4bmx
02-19-2008, 06:08 PM
just curious why you're worried about lug nuts when other parts can be lighter?

wgknestrick
02-19-2008, 06:56 PM
just curious why you're worried about lug nuts when other parts can be lighter?

I agree. These make half a gnat's ass difference. Spend your time and effort other places.

xtnct
02-20-2008, 09:55 AM
Sorry that my post was not clear.

I'm not worried about the weight, I'm worried about the properties of the different metals that the lugs are made out of and how they interact (expand) in relation to the rim alloy and stud. At the track, things get extremely hot, especially when running in advanced groups with race pads & r-comps.

My concern is with cheap lug nuts that could fail under these hot and stressful conditions. Aluminum expands at different rate than the steel studs and has a lower melting temp for example. My friend literally fused some "tuner" lugs to the studs that had to be cut off - I just do not want to deal with that.

I wanted to find out which lug nuts are "track" safe and which to avoid. Since there are so many different materials available, I don't know enough about their advantages/disadvantages. Not into the looks or the weight. Also, not into spending hundreds just to safe a few grams.

I'm looking for the best, safest bang for the buck. If I'm going to spend $50 on steel nuts, and there are lighter, stronger alternatives that are just as safe and reliable for an extra $20, I'll go and get that but again, since I'm not racing, I am not willing to spend $100+ on some fancy lug nuts.

Thanks all.

enigma
02-20-2008, 09:27 PM
I'd stay away from aluminum lug nuts, aluminum is a fairly soft material, and the threads will not hold up to repeated On-off's and torquing of the wheels. Great for fancy racers who have sponsors to give them free lugs and the like.
I'd get a set of steel lugs, and use a lubricant on the wheel studs.
If you are dead set on aluminum, go with forged, it is fairly strong, and will be more resistant to galling and wear.
But before you change out anything, check the rules of the class that you are racing in, many racing classes require steel lugs.