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02-12-2011, 02:47 AM | #1 |
Tri-State Aficionado
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My Ride: 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe LT iTrader: (1)
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240 guys help me out here.
First off, I've never even been under the hood of a 240 before, but I know the ins and outs of engine building etc. I've been offered a 1990 240sx SR20DET swapped car ( manual) for my 85 SHELBY charger ( seen in the fs section). I'm supposed to look at it Sunday but I have no idea what to look for. I know 2.0l DOHC I know the basic things to look for on any car but what's the difference between ka/st etc. What I know is this: it needs the header, turbo and ecu installed. He said i should only need to buy the hard pipes sand fmic to finish it. I was told the clutch popped a spring so he's installing a new one
I'll be taking a bunch of pics Sunday to post up here as well. Any help is appreciated. |
02-12-2011, 04:40 AM | #3 | |
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If it's an sr, needing parts installed should have you second guessing the swap: who did it, why wasn't it finished, etc. Rust on the shock towers is the biggy, (normally rust elsewhere can be repaired though its not favorable. However, very rusty shock towers will condemn the car). If things seem shady or thrown together I'd back off because plenty of bone stock S chassis can be had for cheap if you search. Good luck!
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02-12-2011, 04:48 AM | #4 |
Tri-State Aficionado
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My Ride: 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe LT iTrader: (1)
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Yeah I already planned on asking for paperwork on as much as possible. I need to remind myself to check the turbo for shaft play, Ill definitely have to figure out why its not complete, if its the DE I could understand if its a more recent turbo kit purchase but the DET shouldn't need the manifold removed right? Also, are there any identifying marks on the T(28?) turbos? or any markings on the engine blocks to differentiate the DET vs DE?
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02-12-2011, 10:37 AM | #5 | |
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02-12-2011, 11:06 AM | #6 | |
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it probably has a t25 (stock) turbo unless it is a blacktop motor (doubt it). if it has shaft play dont be too worried, turbos are cheap. the biggest concern is why he is getting rid of a car that needs so little work to be finished, while after finished it would be worth so much more (unless there is a major problem of course).
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02-12-2011, 11:15 AM | #7 | |
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02-19-2011, 11:57 PM | #8 | |
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02-12-2011, 05:00 AM | #9 |
Tri-State Aficionado
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Will the engine fire/run (assuming all the connectors were wired properly) with the ECU installed? since the heads on I obviously cant see if theres a blown piston or a damaged cylinder wall so Id like to ask him to plug in the ECU and fire it up.
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02-12-2011, 11:42 AM | #11 |
Tri-State Aficionado
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My Ride: 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe LT iTrader: (1)
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I wasnt given all the details of the car but this sounds like its it, I could be wrong though http://lancaster.craigslist.org/pts/2205599504.html. Again Im going sunday to look at it. (so just in case it is please dont take any parts just yet) lol jk.
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02-12-2011, 11:43 AM | #12 |
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T25s are a dime a dozen you can get a stock T25 from any 87-89 Z31 or any TT Z32. I see them all the time dirt cheap.
Again I am going to stress, if the car has that stupid rubber wing on the back, check out the area under it very closely. Aside from the strut towers (which if they are bad turn around and walk away from the car) this is one of the worse spots for rust in the car. The car needs a whole new clutch assembly??? You may want to rethink this 240. Seems like it may be more trouble then it is worth. This ad seems fishy to me. Also find out what kind of Pulsar that SR came out of. Last edited by Bates; 02-12-2011 at 11:48 AM. |
02-12-2011, 11:54 AM | #13 |
Tri-State Aficionado
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Am I missing something with the clutch? I mean I know I was on a serious lack of sleep but isnt it the stock KA trans? Im seeing clutch kits from $117OEM to $500 for higher performance kits from Centerforce etc. Ive done complete trans and transfer case swaps in my trucks in a few hours, something about the 240 that makes it a particular PITA? Im currently just assuming its a "remove driveshaft, remove trans, replace clutch, replace trans, replace driveshaft" kind of job. Please correct me if Im wrong (wouldnt be surprised if I was lol)
Last edited by Scorpion1; 02-12-2011 at 11:57 AM. |
02-12-2011, 12:25 PM | #14 | ||
TST Ruined My Life!
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its a pain in the ass because of the bell housing. unless you have a lift, then its not bad at all. i would be weary of this car. if the ecu needs to be installed does the harness need to be installed too?
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02-12-2011, 12:33 PM | #15 |
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My Ride: 1973 Dodge Charger SE......1974 Plymouth Valiant iTrader: (0)
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I would keep the Shelby Charger if it runs.
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02-16-2011, 05:33 AM | #17 |
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easiest / fastest way to do a clutch on any 240 is to pull the motor and trans together.
always did mine on the ground or under a shade tree. rust frame rails, strut towers, 1/4's, if there's side skirts under them too. if an sr: check turbo, grounds, what igniter its running "j30's" make for ease to get replacements, smell ecu, smells like a burnt amp well you know. if ka24e, throw away if ka24de, pull out and give it to me. if you are putting an after market clutch set in and spending more than 280.00 your doing it wrong. |
02-16-2011, 01:31 PM | #18 | |
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02-16-2011, 02:27 PM | #19 |
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Be careful cause knowing 240's you're probably walking in to a bigger project than your Charger. Common sense also but do not go through with the trade until you plug that ECU in and fire the motor up. Everything else major was already mentioned, good luck
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02-18-2011, 04:07 PM | #20 | |
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