04-28-2008, 11:32 PM | #21 | |
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04-28-2008, 11:34 PM | #22 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Boyertown, PA
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My Ride: is completely stock and gets great gas mileage. iTrader: (2)
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With the engine choice out of the way, my immediate next task was the buy the motor mounts. Innovative took over (and greatly improved on) the designs from HCP. Since Innovative mounts are all the rage lately in all the magazines and such, i figured for nearly HALF the price of Hasport mounts, i couldn't go wrong.
Wrinkle black was my choice of finish. billet aluminum would defeat the purpose of the OEM style build i've got going, so that was definitely out of the picture. I've got more about the mount installation later. My next issue was suspension and brakes. After finally getting the wheel locks off with a special lug nut remover from Matco (anyone ever seen 5 sided lugs ), I started a complete teardown. Of course the rear shock bolts were frozen, so there go the stock control arms. there's no way i'm paying $45 for 2 OEM Honda bushings . Replace with aftermarket--- check. The front stuff let go fairly easily. The tie rod ends were decent, but I decided to replace them right away to avoid problems later. Both Inners and Outers were replaced. The ball joints are trash. The lower's don't really need to be replaced yet so I'll let em go for now, but the uppers are bad. The Skunk2 Pro Series camber adjustment kit is high on the list of next purchases, so that'll end that problem.. it comes with the ball joint and new bushings and all sorts of goodies! I prepped and resprayed most of the bare metal solid components with etch primer and flat black. The brakes seem to be great actually. LJ probably just replaced the stuff before he parked the car, so after new front and rear rotors, and a proper prep to the calipers, I resprayed them black and reused the front EBC greenstuff pads, they're basically brand new! yeah, i did the hats in 1200 degree black too Brakes--- done. The suspension that was in place when i bought the integra was holding up the car, and that's about it. Stiff stuff is the fun part. I decided to go with H&R Race Springs over KYB AGX shocks. My friend Mitch has the same setup on his BB4 Prelude and i LOVE the ride, so for me this was the obvious choice. Stiff, yet not bouncy. I finished up the spring/strut combo with new KYB bushings for the upper shock mounts. Here's the new compared to the old Along with the Skunk2 lower control arms, I'll also be picking up an ASR rear subframe kit with the 24mm swaybar, so that'll round out the rear end pretty well. more on that later though. |
04-28-2008, 11:57 PM | #23 |
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My Ride: 1998 Acura Integra LS//VTEC iTrader: (0)
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I can't wait to see this thing together man.
Photoshooooooootttt!!!
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04-29-2008, 12:28 AM | #24 |
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My Ride: 91 Honda Prelude Si 4WS----- 97 Honda Prelude SH ATTS iTrader: (1)
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H&R's were a good decision. I have them on my 3rd gen lude accompanied with some tokico's and i love the ride. Are the "race" setup springs for the integra the same as mine w/ a 2.0" front drop and 2.5" rear?
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04-29-2008, 12:36 AM | #25 |
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H&R's website says 2.0" Front, and 1.75" rear. this is a pic i borrowed from team-integra.net, the springs are H&R Race like i have, and the wheels are 16's with 205-45-16's this should be the ride height.
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04-29-2008, 12:39 AM | #26 |
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My Ride: 91 Honda Prelude Si 4WS----- 97 Honda Prelude SH ATTS iTrader: (1)
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nice... thats a fitting drop for a set of 16's.
what kind of wheel tire combo you looking to go with? & are you rocking a lip kit eventually, or staying oem? |
04-29-2008, 12:51 AM | #27 |
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my car will probably look exactly like the one in the pic. IMO, the OEM optional kit is the only lip kit that is properly designed. it flows very well and is very subtle. i love it. as for the wheels though, i'm undecided. to start out with it'll probably be on polished swirlies. i may be picking up a set within the next week or two from a guy on T-I.
Last edited by DC2.2GSR; 04-29-2008 at 01:42 PM. |
04-29-2008, 01:41 PM | #28 |
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Since the 2.2L H22A is a much larger engine/trans combo dimensionally (as well as displacement-wise), actually fitting it into the DC2 chassis requires some conversion parts.. and it's still a tight fit. Using Innovative Mounts, The Passenger side B-Series motor mount needs to be removed from the framerail. <--- yeah that's what I thought too. WTF? all the way? yep. here's what I had to do:
Spot Weld time . I hate drilling spot welds. Anyway, I started by drilling out the factory spot welds on the OEM B-Series Mount bracket. I used a punch to center the drill bit before just going to town on it. The bit is going to walk all over the place instead of biting into the metal if you don't. Personally, I like to start with a smaller bit, and then step up to a bit that will cover the entire area of the spot weld. All welds drilled with small bit: After stepping up to a larger bit, the next step was to break the remaining parts of the spot welds. If you can't get it the first time, use a bigger hammer! I used a chisel style punch to get behind the bracket and break it from the inside. No matter how well you think you drilled the welds, there's almost always a small area or two or 5 that didn't let go yet . The wavyness in the framerail itself is actually there from the factory for some reason. Removing the bracket didn't actually do any damage to the rail. i'm surprised. Next I cleaned everything up... sprayed with etch (THE most important step!!! unless you like rust)... ...and finally sprayed it black and test fit the new Innovative bracket. The bracket self located off of the bottom torque mount bolt holes, and you just have to drill 2 holes from the top down. It's really easy! |
04-29-2008, 06:42 PM | #29 |
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Sooo Clean
H22 FTW dude Gotta say im not a Honda guy but I got major props for you and this build! Cant wait to see more!
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04-29-2008, 10:52 PM | #30 | |
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very nice. good luck
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04-30-2008, 08:25 AM | #33 |
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I like your approach to the build. It is very against the typical (or stereo typical) Honda build.
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04-30-2008, 09:31 AM | #34 | ||
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thanks a lot for the comments guys, i have a bit more to post up before i'm caught up to where i'm at with the car now.
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04-30-2008, 10:13 AM | #35 |
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My Ride: 1992 Mazda Miata, 1991 Honda CRX Si LS-T, 95 Civic VX iTrader: (3)
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Looks good man, Had you considered the H2b conversion? This is the route I am going with my CRX, Boosted H23 w/ B series trans...
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04-30-2008, 10:29 AM | #36 | |
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I did consider it, but since I bought my car as a shell without the engine or trans, it's much easier to just pick up a full H swap with the trans included right away. B Series hydro transmissions are so goddamn expensive anymore that it wouldn't have been worth it to get a B trans, H motor, H2B conversion, AND replace the motor mounts anyway because the ones in the car could use a refresh, especially before putting an H22A into it.
If I would have had a GSR trans to begin with then yes, I may have gone with H2B instead. edit: hey i just looked at your MSP FS Thread and saw that you're in boyertown... small world! me too. lol
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04-30-2008, 10:32 AM | #37 | |
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Since the interior is going to need to be put back together very soon, I figured the next thing to check off of the list was fitting the Prelude-style shifter assembly so that the carpet can go back in. B and D Series Hondas use solid linkages to tell the trans what to do, but the H and F series transmissions require a set of cable linkages.
B-Series GSR Linkage is on the left, H/F Series cables and shifter assembly are on the right. Some people say that the only shifter you can use is from a BB4 Prelude. I went to Harry's U Pull It and yanked a shifter assembly from 3 different cars. You can use the 5 speed assembly from either a 90-93 Honda Accord, a 94-97 Accord, or a 92-96 Prelude... they're all the same. I picked the one from the 90-93 accord because for some reason it shifted the smoothest. To get this shifter style to work in an Integra or a Civic, you have to cut one hole in the floor for the shifter assembly to sit in, and another smaller one in front of it for the cables to run through. This is how I did it... First thing I had to decide how much 'floor' I was going to remove. It only needs to be enough for the bottom hump of the shifter assembly to fall through so that the assembly sits flush with the floor, so I didn't want to take too much out. It's easier to take more metal away rather than put it back on if it's too much! I came up with a shape that I wanted, and started by drilling 4 holes in each of the corners. I then played connect the dots with a cutoff wheel, and punched out the area in the center. Like everything else, I cleaned it up a bit with the Roloc disk. I test fit the shifter assembly, and came up with an idea of where I wanted the cable hole to be. I had to remove a small silver bracket which is where the center console bolts to. I'll design a replacement bracket later when I'm ready to put everything back together. Again, like usual, I sprayed it with Etch Primer so it doesn't rust, and then dusted it in with black to finish it off.
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04-30-2008, 10:38 AM | #38 | |
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here's a random one that I did that has nothing to do with getting the swap done:
Moon cut!! This way i can tune with my stock cam gears
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04-30-2008, 12:26 PM | #39 | |
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Trying to rig up axles could have been a real pain in the ass. Supposedly you can use 90-93 Integra Axles with a 90-93 Accord Mid-shaft.... or a 90-93 Integra Passenger side axle with a 86-89 Integra Driver's side axle using the inner Prelude joint and a 92-96 Prelude 5 speed mid shaft.
Sounds pretty ghetto, huh?? yeah.. it is. I'm using these Driveshaft Shop Lv. 0 H swap Axles You can see the destroyed B-Series axles that came on the car. not very good haha
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04-30-2008, 12:34 PM | #40 |
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My Ride: 2013 Ram Blackout Express Quad Cab, 96 Jeep Cherokee XJ, 98 Nissan 240ss Never going to run iTrader: (0)
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Looking good. A buddy of mine has a H22 swap in his EG Hatch. He was at the Millersville show if anyone was there. Good luck with it. His car hauls ass for being NA and mostly stock.
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