TriStateTuners.com :: Home of Tristate Auto Enthusiast  

Go Back TriStateTuners.com :: Home of Tristate Auto Enthusiast > Tech > Asian > Subaru Talk
Bonehead Performance
Register Rules & Info Mark Forums Read

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-30-2005, 11:57 AM   #1
teh DIRT
TST Ruined My Life!
 
teh DIRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Hartford, CT
Member #6

My Ride:
Legacy 2.0GT

iTrader: (3)
Send a message via AIM to teh DIRT
Subaru Tech / Install Info/ Repair PDF Files Stick *Tons of Info Here*

In my attempt to make the technical aspect of this site better, I have created a Subaru Tech Section for all of the Subaru gurus to spread the wealth. Here you can create DIYS, HOW TO's, and INSTALLS. In doing this I only have a few requests.
1. Write all contributions in a easy to read manner. Slang and abbreviations wont help.

2. At the end of the techincal post, write "keywords: (keywords here)". this will help users be able to find what they need when searching.

3.If you arent positive what you are talking about then let the public know that. Say:"i think this is right but I am not sure" so they know that following your steps may not be the absolute correct way.

4. Title the contribution by what you are going to explain.

5. CONTRIBUTE! In order for this to work I need YOU, the members, to take this under your wing and make it what it needs to be
-pete
__________________
Quote:
i think subwrxkid is thinking cleanneon is copying him. if he was it would be at a shop by now.

Last edited by JoeScooby; 05-05-2007 at 08:55 PM.
teh DIRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2005, 01:38 PM   #2
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
Installing Subaru WRX Up-Pipe

This DIY is installing a Perrin Up-Pipe, can be put to use on any brand.

Warning! Make sure you spray all the bolts with liquid wrench or equivalent. The nuts and bolts that hold the exhaust to the turbo, and the manifold to the up pipe and crossover pipe, have been know to seize together. Let the liquid wrench sit for a few hours before you remove them.

Tools you need:
O2 sensor wrench
3/8 drive ratchet
1/2 drive ratchet
Assorted extensions for 3/8 and 1/2 drive ratchets
10, 12, 14mm 3/8 sockets
12, 14mm 1/2 sockets
2- 14mm open-ended wrenches or gear wrenches
2- 12 mm open-ended wrenches or gear wrenches
10mm open-ended wrenches or gear wrench
Flat head screw drivers
Liquid wrench/ or equivalent
Assorted pliers

Let car cool off and prep for install.

1- While letting the car cool, remove:
Lower plastic splash guard (3 1mm bolts and 4 popits)



The air cleaner and box (2 12 mm bolts down low on the chassis)



Blow off valve. (2 12mm bolts)
Intercooler (2 12mm bolts and 3 hose clamps)



Intercooler bracket (2 12mm bolts)



Turbo heatsheild (7 10mm bolts, some of these are tricky to remove)
You will need to cut part of the turbo heatshield away, to make room for the relocated EGT bung.(Indicated by the black line on the turbo heatshield)



Front 02 sensor wire bracket- mounted on #3 cylinder coil (1 12mm bolt)



Front 02 sensor. (The sensor can be most easily access via a port on the passenger side wheel well. This port is covered with a 4 popit shield. It is a good idea to get an O2 Sensor socket for easy removal)



Lower exhaust manifold heat shield (4 12mm bolts)



It is a good idea to spray all of the bolts on the turbo and manifold with liquid wrench or WD40. (There are 5 bolts on the downpipe side of the turbo, and 7 on the lower exhaust manifold.) Let the bolts soak for at least 30 mins, the longer the better.

2- Remove the 5 bolts that attach the turbo to the exhaust downpipe ( 5 14mm bolts )
3- Remove the 7 bolts on the lower exhaust manifold ( 3 14mm nuts, 4 14mm nuts and bolts )
4- The exhaust manifold can now be removed. This is a good time to tap for an EGT sensor if you plan on installing one.
5- Remove the exhaust down pipe, and 2 midpipes. [Stock Exhaust. Aftermarket exhaust could be different] (5 14mm bolts (turbo) ,1 14mm bolt to tranny case, and assorted 12/14mm bolts on the 2 midpipes. Be sure to support the mid pipe that contains the rear O2 Sensor.
6- Remove the lower turbo heat shield. (mounted to up pipe with 2 10mm bolts)
7- Remove the 5 14mm nuts that bolt the turbo to the up pipe and larger bracket. ( 3 for the turbo, 2 for the bracket )




8- IT may be helpful to loosen the one bolts on the larger bracket that hold the bracket to the block. This will make things come out a little easier.
9- Unplug the EGT sensor connector located on the shock tower. (blue and black wire)
10- Remove the Passenger side motor mount nut/washer.



11- Using a jack and block of wood, jack the engine up enough for the uppipe to be removed out the bottom. You should only need to lift the engine approximately 2 inches. Be careful not to hit the EGT sensor on the way out.
12- Lower the engine, and tighten the motor mount nut.
13- Now that the up pipe is out, spray the EGT bung with liquid wrench.
14- Remove the EGT sensor and install it in the PSP up pipe. Use some antiseize on the threads when installing.
15- Place the old gaskets on the PSP up pipe.
16- Tighten all bolts flush with flange. (17mm heads)



17- Slide PSP up pipe into the car from the top. (This should be easier than the removal, since the PSP up pipe has more clearance )
18- Place PSP up pipe in the turbo bracket, use one of the nuts to hold it there.
19- Reinstall the lower exhaust manifold with the old gaskets. Don¡'t tighten all the nuts and bolts. ( 3 14mm nuts, 4 14mm nuts and bolts )
20- Snug all nuts and bolts down on the manifold, up pipe and crossover pipe, and brackets.



21- Install and tighten nut on the small turbo bracket ( 1 14mm nut )
22- Torque the nuts and bolts in this order:
Manifold to cross over pipe ( 2 14mm bolts )
Manifold to up pipe ( 2 14mm bolts )
Manifold to block ( 3 14mm nuts )
Finally turbo to up pipe ( 3 14mm nut )
23- Proceed backwards from step 9, reinstalling parts.

You have now completed the installation of you new Perrin Subaru Performance Uppipe!

Start the car to let it warm up and listen for exhaust leaks.
There may be a more noticeable engine noise coming from the PSP up pipe due to the lack of a catalytic converter and heat shield.

Dont forget boys and girls, depending on your dealer/service manager you run the risk of voiding your warrenty. Think hard and heavy, then again; adding a air freshner might void it as well, GO SUBARU!

Thanks to the guys over at perrin and ScoobyMods.com for a awsomely detailed DIY.
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2005, 01:41 PM   #3
TehWagon
The Calendar Master
 
TehWagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: FL (the 6th Tri-state State)
Member #34

My Ride:
2002 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon MBP

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via AIM to TehWagon
Awesome idea, Pete!

great instructions, joe!
__________________
~Ashley *formerly CarWidow* {TST Orig No. 34 / HP#002}
{{{---MPIBTY

My favorite wagon quote:
Quote:
I needed to both haul stuff and haul arse.
TehWagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2005, 01:44 PM   #4
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
Intake Silencer Removal AKA Snorkelectomy

This is a fairly simple mod, so here it is:

Tools: flat-head screwdriver, ratchet/sockets (I think metric), open end wrench

Estimated time: 30/40 minutes

First, take off the air scoop by removing the two bolts holding it on in the front, and pulling the rear end off of the intake silencer. Then, remove this nut. Now for the hard part - remove the front passenger wheel and begin to remove the plastic clips holding on the fender lining. Use a flat-head to pry out the center (screw-like) part of these clips, then the outer (claw-like) part. They won't come out if you try to take the whole thing out at once. Take out all the clips to the right of the brakes, and also remove the little plastic panel directly below the headlights (this directs air to the brakes for cooling). When you have done all this, pull back the fender lining, exposing the "snorkus". Make sure you remove these clips before you remove the lining, or they will break. When you can see the intake silencer, remove the nut and bolt on the right side. Then, simply pull the whole thing out. You might have to remove the air filter and push from the inside of the airbox. Put everything back together (minus the intake silencer, of course) and you're done! Some people prefer to buy the rubber plug from the RS models to plug up the hole where the scoop met the intake silencer. That way, only cold air is drawn from the fender. Personally, I re-attached the scoop and left the hole open so there is never a shortage of air. Enjoy your new, cooler-sounding intake. You may also want to purchase the GP moto intake elbo if you want to keep your "False ram air tube"


Thanks to Matt over at Irregardless.us Otherwise known as Irregardless WRX
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT

Last edited by JoeScooby; 11-30-2005 at 09:29 PM.
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2005, 01:59 PM   #5
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
Up-Pipe Gutting

Please do not blame me for any damage done to your turbo from leftover Cat material because you are blind. REMEMBER FEDERAL OFFENCE

**** The catalyst material may be carcinogenic (causes cancer) **** do this outside, with a fine dust mask, or respirator... for your safety.



this project will take A LOT of work & I recommend 3 things... A spare up-pipe, some muscle, & an hour or MORE!

this does NOT include the 2+ hours to get the pipe out of the car in the first place!!!

I was lucky enough to find an uppipe used for less than $60 bucks... new with cat aprox. $500.00 from dealer




Make a very mental note or measurement on the angle of the Exhaust Gas Temp. sensor it will make it easier latter when you put it back in...

If you opt. to not put in the EGT probe back in, plug the hole with a M12x1.25 bolt less than an inch long (cut if necessary) & use a 2.2k ohm 1/2 watt resistor where the sensor plugged into.

After removing EGT sensor, start by drilling a series of holes in the "Cat" until you are sure you can't get any more in it...

The cat is nearly 1-1/2" thick or more... !!! drill the hole closer to the center than this (you'll see why) !!!

NEXT... the big screwdriver & hammer...




This will take some time to peck away at this until the cat starts to come apart... once the center starts to come apart you might get this...



... a chunk too large to come out the other end. This SUCKS!!! After some more work & possible swearing you'll get this...



pliers (or needle nose preferably) to pull chunks out as you can... Once you get it all out & scrape the pipe till NOTHING is left.

When I say NOTHING I mean it... the cost of a new turbo is around $1000 (under $200 used usually). DO NOT ASSUME THAT IT IS GOOD ENOUGH !!! Look in the pipe, shake the pipe, tap on it... If you mess this up the dealer isn't going to be you friend because a little peice came loose & munched the turbo... I'm not trying to scare you, but give you reality... You can now put it back in the car...

( I chose to really go to town on the internals... a little wire brushing till it shined )




the little "ribs" are from the factory for better bonding of the cat.

Of all the areas the EGT bung will be the worst to work around ( bent screwdrivers help)



Your car will be happy to have this potential problem GONE...!!! best of luck... don't say I didn't warn ya.

Some of the tools I used are:

12" long, 1/4" drill bit extension (similar to Sears #00920920000, but cheaper)



12" long, 1/4" drill bit (similar to Sears #00966060000, but cheaper)



Big long screw driver, big old hammer, small wire brush that would fit into the uppipe & had a 1/4" shank...

Thanks to GLWagon

Now remember to MAKE SURE ALL CATALYST IS REMOVED, you dont want the turbo injesting a nice chunk of cancer.
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT

Last edited by JoeScooby; 11-30-2005 at 09:24 PM.
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2005, 09:17 PM   #6
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
Down-Pipe Installation

Remember kids, this may void your warrenty. Is also a federal offence to tamper with catalytic converters

Downpipe installation on a Subaru WRX

Disclaimer:
Perform this installation at your own risk. We do not assume any responsibility whatsoever for any damages of any kind resulting from any information printed in this article. This article was created as a supplementary resource and should not be used as the lone source of information on this topic. We recommend that you seek the advice of a trained professional. This is simply a guide to show users how we accomplished our own installations.

A few tips for installation:
1. Make sure the vehicle has had sufficient time to cool down. We allowed our WRX to cool off for 3 hours with the hood up and it was still very warm to the touch!
2. Gather all tools you'll need before you begin.
3. Spray all bolts with a lubricant such as LiquidWrench or WD40 and allow to penetrate for about an hour.
5. Use protective eye wear. Our tools consisted of a socket set, box end wrenches, an adjustable wrench, wire crimpers and some wire snips.



Step 1:
Remove the heatshield. You'll be amazed at the amount of bolts used to hold on this simple piece of metal. There are 5 on the left side (viewing from the front of the car), one on the back, and two on the right side. After you have all the bolts removed you're going to need some keen geometry skills to get the heat shield out of the engine bay but once you do, the downpipe to turbo connection is easily available. Once the downpipe is exposed look for the bottom heatshield. It connects to the downpipe by one bolt.



Step 2:
Loosen the downpipe. There are only 5 bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo. They are surprisingly easy to get to. Now would also be a good time to remove the O2 sensor from the Downpipe. Reference Step 5's picture for it's location.



Step 3:
Disconnect the remaining hangers. We've used photos of the exhaust out of the car in order to point out where the hangers are in relation to the whole system. Install the new Downpipe by lining up the turbo/ downpipe bolts then securing the hangers. There are 2 hangers for the downpipe shown here. The front one bolts into the tranny. The second rests on a J bracket and is screwed in.



Step 4:
Hooking up the Midpipe. This one is very easy. Simply use the gasket provided by M2 to join the downpipe to the midpipe. Then use the stock rubber hanger and presto!



Step 5:
With the Midpipe in place it's time to relocate the O2 sensor. This step is required since the M2 system has it's cat in the midpipe. Without the O2 sensor plugged in, you can expect to see a check engine light come on. We had to splice the O2 sensor to extend it the 12" or so required to reach the new bung, but have since learned that this step might be unnecessary due to some extra length of O2 wire tied up in the engine bay.





OK this is a combined installation of a Down-pipe and exhaust, dont mind the last few comments. Remember to use some Liquid wrench, the bolts on the downpipe connecting the midpipe can be a pain in the arse. I had to sawzall mine. Trimming of the heatshield may be needed when re-installing, dont cut yourself cuz it can be sharp.
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 03:25 PM   #7
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
Installing turbo timer with upgraded alarm system 02+ WRX

This will work with the turbo timer harness found at any suby after market store.

Any modifications to your vehicle may or will void your warrenty!


Instructions on How to Wire to Arm the Security System After Installation of Turbo TimerThese should work on all '02+ WRX, but NOT STi models. (Please note that Mach V Motorsports assumes no responsibility for damage caused during rewiring should you decide to use these instructions.)

Step 1: After installing your turbo timer with the under dash panel off, locate the black relay box on top of the fuse panel. Unbolt 1 (10mm) bolt and cut the Green with Black wire. Tape both ends of the wire and reinstall relay box. Reassemble under dash panel.

Step 2: Remove the panel in front of the armrest by pulling up on the cup holder. Disconnect the power mirror terminal. Locate the wiring terminal for the security system. Cut the Grey Wire. Tape both ends. Reattach power mirror terminal and cup holder panel.

Thanks to Mach V motorsports for the info.
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 03:30 PM   #8
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
MIL CEL eliminator

Study Diagrams 1 and 2 on the bottom of this page closely before installation.
Caution: Do not bend or alter the black shrink-wrapped portion of the MIL Eliminator. This contains sensitive electronics and damage may occur.


1. Disconnect vehicle battery.

2. Remove O2 sensor after the catalytic converter (Rear O2 Sensor). Nothing will be done with the front O2 sensors up stream from the converters.

3. Carefully remove the factory sheathing on the O2 sensor (between the connector and the sensor itself) 2 inches from the O2 connector to expose the four (4) wires. Nothing will be done with the two black wires. The MIL eliminator circuit will splice to the blue and white wires.

4. Cut the Blue and White wires about 2 inches from the connector. Give plenty of room to splice wires on both sides of the circuit. Repeat, do not cut or alter the two black wires.(Installation Note: Do not cut out a section of the blue and white wiring, just cut the wires.)

5. Splice in the MIL Eliminator circuit (See Diagrams 1 and 2 below as a guide). Soldering is preferred, but a good quality waterproof automotive butt connector can also be used. There will be 4 connections made as follows:
A - Blue Wire from O2 Connector splices to Green Wire on the MIL Eliminator.
B - Blue Wire from O2 Sensor splices to Black Wire on the MIL Eliminator.
C - White Wire from O2 Connector splices to Gray Wire (Green Wire side) on the MIL Eliminator.
D - White Wire from O2 Sensor splices to Gray Wire (Black Wire side) on the MIL Eliminator.

6. Suggestions for Extra Protection - The MIL Eliminator circuit is fully encapsulated, but the installer will want to take a couple of additional steps to protect the circuit from the general road conditions. At minimum, start by using black electrical tape and tightly wrap the spliced circuit wiring, the encapsulated portion of the MIL Eliminator, and the areas of sheathing on the o2 sensor harness removed in step 3. Additional protection tips: Use plastic tubing or sheathing with hose clamps and zip ties, 3M rubber tape, etc. over the taped areas for added protection.

7. Reinstall the MIL Eliminator equipped O2 sensor into your exhaust system, torque to factory specifications, plug the O2 sensor connector back into the wiring harness.

8. Once your O2 sensor is correctly installed in the pipe and plugged back into its respective connector, hook up your battery.




Disclaimer - Manufacturer is not liable for misuse or incorrect installation of this product. With any electronic modification, damage to the rear O2 sensors may occur if the product is not installed properly. MIL Eliminators are designed and manufactured for off-highway use only. Installing these parts on a vehicle that is used on public roads may violate U.S., Canadian, state, provincial, and/or local laws and regulations including (without limitation) emissions and safety requirements. Additionally, the installation of these parts may void your vehicle's warranty. The buyer agrees it will not hold the Manufacturer liable in any legal proceeding claims, and/or damages regarding the use of these parts.

Warranty - The MIL Eliminators are guaranteed to be free from defects for 1 year from the date of purchase. If the MIL Eliminators cease to function correctly, contact your dealer for an exchange. MIL Eliminators with melted or damaged circuits and/or wiring, or torn or broken sheathing will not be accepted for an exchange.

Thanks to pony express for the install info!
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 03:32 PM   #9
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
ECU Reset - Performance Recovery

After every engine modification you should reset your ECU.

I beleive this is actually called the Shiv ECU reset.

To reset your ECU: 1. disconnect the negative terminal on the battery; 2. pump the brakes a few times to get the few remainging electrons out of the system; 3. reconnect the battery; and 4. start the car and let it idle for a few minutes.

After you rest the ECU, your car is going to perform in a degraded manner as it will have lost its memory. Shiv of Vishnu tuning offers the following advice to recover performance:

QUOTE
Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.

Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).

The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....

First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.

Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower

In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!

Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful!

Thanks to Mr X over at WRXFanatics.com for the info!
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT

Last edited by JoeScooby; 12-05-2005 at 12:58 PM.
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 05:28 PM   #10
D Money
TST Ruined My Life!
 
D Money's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jersey
Member #798

My Ride:
Big dawg ride

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via AIM to D Money
wow this is really helpful...post up how to put in injectors or spark plugs
__________________
666 will never be the same, RIP big dawg! I'm gonna miss you Sherwood.

Quote:
D has beat me up in public before. be careful this guy is reckless!
D Money is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 06:20 PM   #11
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
How to change injectors WRX

Detailed installation. Please remember this is copyrighted material from subaru, donot disperse amongst the world.

Mods, can you please resize!





__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT

Last edited by JoeScooby; 12-02-2005 at 06:32 PM.
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 06:32 PM   #12
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
Changing, inspecting, gapping spark plugs WRX

Copyrighted material from Subaru

Have fun, your hands arnt going to like you!

Mods, please resize so dialup people dont cry!







__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 06:36 PM
JoeScooby
This message has been deleted by JoeScooby. Reason: worthless spam
Old 12-02-2005, 06:47 PM   #13
D Money
TST Ruined My Life!
 
D Money's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jersey
Member #798

My Ride:
Big dawg ride

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via AIM to D Money
keep it going joescooby...now I need how to wire a apexi turbo timer w/ hks wiring harness and also how to best run the lines on boost, egt, and air fuel guages!!
__________________
666 will never be the same, RIP big dawg! I'm gonna miss you Sherwood.

Quote:
D has beat me up in public before. be careful this guy is reckless!
D Money is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 06:59 PM   #14
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
Apex Integration TT install WRX

Call me joe!




1. Disconnect the negativeterminal of the battery.

2. Pull the harness coming from the key cylinder. (In some vehicles, the whole
key cylinder is a harness)

3. Insert the installation harness between the cylinder and harness .

4. Connect the 3 prong Timer harness to the relay.


5. Splice the black ground wire from the relay into the Engine ECU ground wire. ( Please refer to the vehicle specific wiring diagram. ) When not using the O2 sensor, A/F ratio monitor, and automatic after idling functions, connect the ground wire connector to the chassis.

6. Splice the white wire from the relay(O2 sensor signal) into the O2 sensor wire from the ECU.(Refer to diagram charts.)

7. Splice the gray parking brake wire from the relay to the parking brake switch. (With the IG key ON, be sure to check that the parking brake switch reads 0 V when the parking brake is up, and 12V when the brake is down.)

Mounting the turbo timer

1. Use the included double sided tape to mount.

2. Mount in a location that does not interfere with driving. Connect to relay.

3. Reconnect battery.

Checking the Safety Switch(Parking Brake Switch)
1. Pull the parking brake, start the engine, and make sure the IG key is ON.

2. Set the Timer to a random setting above 30 seconds.

3. Turn the IG key OFF and activate the Timer countdown.

4. Release the parking brake during the countdown process.

5. Be sure the engine shuts completely off.
__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT

Last edited by JoeScooby; 12-02-2005 at 07:08 PM.
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 07:09 PM   #15
D Money
TST Ruined My Life!
 
D Money's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jersey
Member #798

My Ride:
Big dawg ride

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via AIM to D Money
my new favorite thread...detailed list on how to put parts on lol..thanks joe..now lets see that boost guage info lol
__________________
666 will never be the same, RIP big dawg! I'm gonna miss you Sherwood.

Quote:
D has beat me up in public before. be careful this guy is reckless!
D Money is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 07:25 PM   #16
JoeScooby
Tri-State Addict
 
JoeScooby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: McGuire AFB, NJ - Cherry Hill
Member #345

My Ride:
2004 JPB Subaru WRX Sedan

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via ICQ to JoeScooby Send a message via AIM to JoeScooby
Running boost guage lines WRX.

Routing boost guage lines.

Pop out the gromet right above the clutch pedal. Please try not to loose it. There is an alternative gromet that may work better, but I did it this way.



Snake the rubber hose through the hole. Put as much as you can out there. Then grab a flashlight and balance it on a screwdriver till you can light up the area out of the hole



Pop the hood and find the light. Use a wirehanger to guide it up to the top. Note that running the rubber hose here is more dangerous that my above mentioned alternative as I don't know what will happen if the hose breaks and dangles into some water or dirt.





Then find the vacum line off the bronzed colored round thing with a Z on it attached to the intercooler. This is another dangerous part. If you want to do stupid things like myself, you will measure about 3 inches down and then cut it. Take the t-fitting that came with the guage and splice the rubber hose into that line. Here is a picture of the end result. Oh, btw, if you want to be smart then just run out to an auto parts store or home depot to find a matching high quality line... Therefore no changes to your stock setup (doh!).



# Note that I installed it about 2.4 inches away.. you really should install it a little lower, or just buy your own hose.
# Check fittings and start up car. The boost guage should read in the negative. If it doesn't jump to 0 when you give it a little gas in neutral, then somethings wrong with the hose or the guage, or your engine.
# Secure your rubber tube as it can get damaged by the clutch or rub against the edge of the hole and get cut. I wrapped some electric tape around where it hit the hole and then "temporarily" taped it down.

__________________
2009 Dodge Ram 5.7 ltr beast
2004 Java WRX - SOLD
2005 Silver Forester XT - Wife
2014 Outback
2014 STi Hatch
2013 Yukon SLT

Last edited by JoeScooby; 12-02-2005 at 07:33 PM.
JoeScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 07:31 PM
JoeScooby
This message has been deleted by JoeScooby. Reason: worthless spam
Old 12-02-2005, 07:47 PM   #17
D Money
TST Ruined My Life!
 
D Money's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jersey
Member #798

My Ride:
Big dawg ride

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via AIM to D Money
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeScooby
I guess i'm off topic.
Thanks very much Joe. Im glad you are putting these helpfull hints up for me adn other subie tuners!!
__________________
666 will never be the same, RIP big dawg! I'm gonna miss you Sherwood.

Quote:
D has beat me up in public before. be careful this guy is reckless!
D Money is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 08:29 PM   #18
TROLL
The [TST] Don
Admin
 
TROLL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Langhorne, PA
Member #3

My Ride:
07 Bugeye STi - 94 Supra

iTrader: (6)
Send a message via AIM to TROLL
joe are all of these your own installs and writeups? i'm really impressed... we're gonna have to get together and talk about how to better format this stuff so its searchable, etc. i need a guy like you for every make of car on the site
bryan
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.

Quote:
If your ever wearing your shirt and someone asks who Mike BartSUki is. Tell them Im a Youtube Sensation and the Top Underground Drifter coming out of Japan! HAHA How JDM is that!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.
TROLL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2005, 12:18 AM   #19
TehWagon
The Calendar Master
 
TehWagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: FL (the 6th Tri-state State)
Member #34

My Ride:
2002 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon MBP

iTrader: (0)
Send a message via AIM to TehWagon
holey moley joe is the install mastar! are some of those from scoobymods? looks like teh apex-i one is right from their site maybe? either way, good stuff!
__________________
~Ashley *formerly CarWidow* {TST Orig No. 34 / HP#002}
{{{---MPIBTY

My favorite wagon quote:
Quote:
I needed to both haul stuff and haul arse.
TehWagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2005, 12:55 PM   #20
IMPREZvWRX
Tri-State Post Whore
 
IMPREZvWRX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Stratford, NJ
Member #164

My Ride:
is lame.

iTrader: (3)
Why not just make an entire copy of Scoobymods?
__________________
Chris

99 Subaru Impreza RS 12.096@114.63
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.
- SOLD
03 Mustang GT - SOLD
02 WRX VF34 12.602@111.08 - The OG of EWG - SOLD!
IMPREZvWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
mazda speed3 repair info 300zx_tt Mazda Talk 4 07-02-2010 03:56 PM
I need advice and info. Car running lean after install ndubz Subaru Talk 14 08-15-2009 08:41 AM
Piston & cam install info 06WRBScoob Subaru Talk 0 06-23-2009 02:17 PM
Our Install and info Shades of Gray Shades of Gray Window Tinting 1 03-30-2007 09:12 AM
New here - need some info. on Subaru Legacys Jacki Off-Topic 1 08-17-2006 10:12 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.