DocWalt's 2017 GT350

[PAdutch]

Is it just me or does everybody else get half a chub seeing carbon fiber wheels

[mckpat03]

Originally Posted by PAdutch

Is it just me or does everybody else get half a chub seeing carbon fiber wheels

I'm with you!

[DocWalt]

I was at half-mast the rest of the day, I think

[DocWalt]

I finally received my BMR front swaybar and installed it this morning/afternoon. Removing the stock swaybar bracket bolts sucks pretty bad, the one under the alternator is a PITA with the plastic shield there. Undo the plastic clips and take that shield off and you'll hate Ford a lot less The Whiteline end links are a total PITA too, the stud is about 1/2" longer than it needs to be and just generally sucks to deal with. The OEM end links are WAY nicer to work with, too bad they're made of cheese and turn into metal bananas with real forces.

BMR didn't include any lube with my swaybar, not sure why... I bought Energy Suspension Formula 5 lube and it's amazing stuff. It's the stickiest grease I've ever dealt with and won't just wash off in rain. I also wrapped the swaybar in teflon tape where the bushins sit, the bar glides smoothly up and down, perfect!

The rest of the install went pretty well, I didn't have to undo any of the other suspension components, I just cranked the steering around to give me room to slide the bar out above the RLCA.

You have to jack the car up pretty high to get room to slide the bar out.


Long 10mm ball tip hex is a must for this job, you'd not be able to torque the new swaybar bracket bolts otherwise.


Easy peasy






I'm set on the medium setting and so far it doesn't seem hugely stiffer than my modded stock FSB, maybe a little more noticeable over bumpy roads, it was raining today so no opportunity to push the car at all. No noises at all which is great.

With the end links on full stiff I'm pretty sure the ball joints would be uncomfortably close to the Magneride wiring... It's already closer than I'd like. Any tips here? I see some other manufacturers have end links that appear to give a lot more clearance to the Magneride wiring.

[DaveSTi]

^ Why is the coolant overflow tank popped out?

Any way to zip tie the magneride wiring away from the balljoint? If not, maybe some different endlinks are gonna be required...I'd hate to see you cut that wiring from the endlinks.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by DaveSTi

^ Why is the coolant overflow tank popped out?

Any way to zip tie the magneride wiring away from the balljoint? If not, maybe some different endlinks are gonna be required...I'd hate to see you cut that wiring from the endlinks.

Easier access to the bolts on the passenger side mount. I could fight around the coolant bubble or undo two bolts and just move it.

I ordered different end links (they're sitting at home actually, delivered today) but the Mustang forum had the same suggestion, zip tie the wiring further away. I should be able to just wrap a ziptie around the shock body that will pull the wiring away from the end link. I already broke a plastic mount on the MR wiring being a moron, I don't need real damage

[DaveSTi]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Easier access to the bolts on the passenger side mount. I could fight around the coolant bubble or undo two bolts and just move it.

I ordered different end links (they're sitting at home actually, delivered today) but the Mustang forum had the same suggestion, zip tie the wiring further away. I should be able to just wrap a ziptie around the shock body that will pull the wiring away from the end link. I already broke a plastic mount on the MR wiring being a moron, I don't need real damage

zip-ties and WD40 are always the first go-to

[DocWalt]

I swapped the front swaybar end links this evening for new ones with much more clearance to the Magneride wiring. Unfortunately the folks that designed these didn't put any wrench flats on the central shaft which makes it a royal PITA to deal with, but it should be just adjusting the length once anyway.

Wow it was cold in the garage tonight...





I took it for a quick spin on the roads that hadn't been salted yet, no funny noises which is a good start.

[DaveSTi]

Replacing endlinks is always fun. Glad to hear no noises.

[DocWalt]

ZL1 addons titanium front tow hook & Diode Dynamics sequential turn signals installed. Unfortunately it's a bumper-off install for both. Hopefully no issues with the turn signals, other guys have had the DRL lights flicker and/or fail completely...

[DaveSTi]

^ what did you change? I see the tow hook but not sure of the other part?

[DocWalt]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4mRmrFc7WY

totally forgot the video, my bad

[DaveSTi]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4mRmrFc7WY

totally forgot the video, my bad

That's cool! Now it'll match the sequential tail lights!

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by DaveSTi

That's cool! Now it'll match the sequential tail lights!

Yup! Perfect synch.

Ricer mods

[DaveSTi]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Yup! Perfect synch.

Ricer mods

Will start worrying if you add lighting to the underbody of the car. Otherwise, it's a Shelby, you're good!

[DocWalt]

Funny... I've been hearing a faint popping noise that got worse the past few days. Here's my endlink washers, lol

[DaveSTi]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Funny... I've been hearing a faint popping noise that got worse the past few days. Here's my endlink washers, lol

That's funny! Looks like we both have the same problem haha.

[DaveSTi]

Quick question: What are you using to clean off the striping on your car? I have water spots on mine and recently ordered CarPro Spotless Water Spot Remover to try to clean them off.

[DocWalt]

I'm curious if the washers on yours show the same softness. I saw the thread on camaro6 about the fix, the new GM nut seems like a half baked attempt at a nordlock, lol

Originally Posted by DaveSTi

Quick question: What are you using to clean off the striping on your car? I have water spots on mine and recently ordered CarPro Spotless Water Spot Remover to try to clean them off.

So far, just washing it. I have some clearbra safe quick detailer that also seems to help.

I waxed the stripes and that helped a lot too.

[DocWalt]

So I went through the process of making a level pad on the side of the garage that I don't normally use, one corner of the car needed about 1 & 1/4" of 1/16" tiles stacked up to get to level. The other three corners were fine. Weird, especially since that's the corner that's near the door to the house. Explains why there's always a puddle there, lol. Checked the alignment on the level pad, came up with -2.0/-1.9 up front, but -1.0/-0.5 in the rear. The rear adjustment is a gigantic PITA and I may pay to have a shop do the rear and then reset the front toe to make the wheel straight.

As a side benefit, since I was setting my end link length on that side of the garage it explains why they were so different side to side. Every other car I'd set them up on the more level side of the garage, but this side is easier to work on... I fixed the lengths of the end links and now the car tramlines a LOT less which is great. The tramlining was VERY annoying after driving my GTI which doesn't tramline much even with a lot more camber.

Today I also replaced the crappy washers with Nordlocks and some hardened steel washers. When I tightened down the nuts it felt "proper" like I expected. Before there was a feeling of softness and I was always nervous that I was stretching the stud or something.

First pic with things not tightened up, so mind the gap.


All tightened up. I kinda wish the nut was bigger/had a flange built in to be able to use the larger size Nordlocks and get more surface area, but oh well. I'll keep an eye on it.