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Old 11-11-2008, 02:34 PM   #41
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^ Slipping an organic clutch is such a bad idea lol.
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Relax, bud. When the dude with a drag Honda and a boosted daily that has had fast Honda's for years AND fabs his own parts tells the new kids on the block that they're doing it wrong, it's time to step back and learn something.
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Old 11-11-2008, 03:01 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by SovXietday View Post
^ Slipping an organic clutch is such a bad idea lol.
And why is that...? I slipped my clutch HARD when I launched my old car and I never smelled it once... ACT Stage 1... The flywheel didn't have hotspots on it when I put another ACT in it to replace it (the clutch had like 35k on it...)
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Old 11-11-2008, 04:39 PM   #43
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See the misconception here is you guys are talking about street driven mild HP vehicles.There is a big differance between a car that is generaly on the street and once in a while hits the track and a car that has been purpose built for the track.I'll tell you right now the most I've ever gotten out of a street disc is 30 passes.Mind you that was with 557whp and a 4 spider diff,not the current setup.It all comes down to this....you ever hear the expression use the right tool for the job?Well in this case it's the right parts.Sure,you can get away with a single disc,but at what expense?Do you really want to be doing clutch swaps constantly? Yes,I understand a Tilton twin disc costs more than most peoples complete motors but in the long run you'll be thankfull you spent the extra buck.Everything must be taken into account when selecting a clutch.Clutches are definately not a "One size fits all" deal. Just because Joe Shmo yielded good results with whatever BS clutch he could afford does';nt mean thats the way to go.
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Old 11-11-2008, 04:51 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by SpEcRv9 View Post
lol wut?...i dont make all my power until 6k?, and then have to shift 200 rpms later, i dont know why nissan ****ed this car over with a low redline since its not boosted...wooot cool max power for 200rpms...thanks nissan!!!

maybe its because fwd all motor cars are not drag cars? i launch my non drag "all motor" car at like 2200 rpm and i still spin all through first...any lower and i bog down...any higer and its more spinning...

launching fwd you really just gotta play with the gas pedal...
You just stated it's not a drag car.If you had the vehicle set up for drag racing,and I don't mean just the clutch tires,you would'nt have that problem.It all comes down to having the correct suspension properly tuned,the correct wheels and tires,axles rated for your HP output,a decent clutch,and gearbox that can withstand it all.It's all about making smart choices and trying to keep driver error to a minimum.
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:32 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000whpTSi View Post
I don't know who told you that but they most likely did'nt take there meds when they told you this.There is no 2 ways about it.Single disc clutches simply cannot compare to single disc.And on top of that the twin disc clutch puts far less stress on the drivetrain.If your sticking with a single disc I'd say go with an ACT3200 with a street disc.The only thing your going to do with that 6 puck solid hub is put unwanted stress on your driveline.Your obviously going to be drag racing the car because dogboxes are not made for the street.I drive mine on the street but it's not street friendly.Trying to downshift and brake mostly leads to loud,costly sounding clunks and bangs.
Honestly,the best clutch on the market is the Tilton carbon/carbon twin disc and triple disc.They are a bit pricey at over $4,000 but if you want the best and your sick of replacing glazed discs it's the price you'll have to pay.
I would call ACT and ask to speak with my buddy Darryl Sampson.Tell em' Vinnie,the owner of Sean Ivey's old 1G Talon told you to call.He'll give you honest suggestions.
I don't know how much your spending on the dogbox,but I know I spent $6,000 on mine.And that was just the price of the gearset.Why spend all that $ on the DB just to turn around and put a $250 clutch in there.I don't know what the gear ratio is in your trans. but my 1st gear tops out at over 65mph.In an AWD car with a 1st gear that tall you are either going to need that twin disc or plan on going through discs on a steady basis.
The shop that specializes, builds, and sells the PPG gears told me.

Not for nothing, im sure you know your stuff and may love the twin disc, however in these tranny's they've reccomended going with an act.

I may switch my order over to a 5mt straight cut sychro box, im afraid I may not like the dogbox on the street.

Since you have one, give me the run down. Is it REALLY that hard to drive it? Does it always make loud ass bangs, clanks, etc?
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:45 AM   #46
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Well,there are no synchros to synchronize the gear changes.So this means if your cruising in 5th and decide to throw it in nuetral,brake and throw it in 3rd or 2nd,if the rpm's are not lined up with that gear your going to get those bangs you speak of.
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Old 11-12-2008, 01:37 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade_ View Post
And why is that...? I slipped my clutch HARD when I launched my old car and I never smelled it once... ACT Stage 1... The flywheel didn't have hotspots on it when I put another ACT in it to replace it (the clutch had like 35k on it...)
Organic material is not meant to be slipped hard, it will fail much faster than it should like that. It isn't an instant thing, but yes you will burn out an organic disc slipping it hard. I burned out my old clutch in a year with hard launches at the drags and whatnot.
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Relax, bud. When the dude with a drag Honda and a boosted daily that has had fast Honda's for years AND fabs his own parts tells the new kids on the block that they're doing it wrong, it's time to step back and learn something.
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:24 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SovXietday View Post
Organic material is not meant to be slipped hard, it will fail much faster than it should like that. It isn't an instant thing, but yes you will burn out an organic disc slipping it hard. I burned out my old clutch in a year with hard launches at the drags and whatnot.
Damn!!! A year? I wish I could get any type of single disc clutch to last that long for me! Only reason I ran a street disc for so long is because I was getting them so cheap.I pay $225 for an ACT3200 PP and a street disc.I've heard of guys paying over double that.Wish I would have gotten a deal on the Tilton !!!
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:30 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Renegade_ View Post
And why is that...? I slipped my clutch HARD when I launched my old car and I never smelled it once... ACT Stage 1... The flywheel didn't have hotspots on it when I put another ACT in it to replace it (the clutch had like 35k on it...)
Unless you have oil or some type of debrea between the clutch and flywheel you should'nt have hot spots.
Also,not for nothing that stage 1 most likely had not much more clamping force than a factory clutch.I doubt you'd actually have to try to make it slip.

J/K,I'm just breakin' your balls.
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:32 PM   #50
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funny, I got over 100 passes on my evo, most of them in the 1.7 - 60' range, before the stock organic clutch finally started to slip in high gear.
I think it would have lasted longer but I glazed it at island doing 6 back to back runs, all mid to low 1.7 60's and no cool down time.
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:11 PM   #51
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well i can understand them recomending a act. You can run a heavy ass pressure plate with a single disk, still kinda load up the drive train and launch it. Theres no syncros to wear. Straight cut boxes are loud, driving normal and double clutching it will silence the clanking in the "crash box" but driving is super simple. Just gotta put it into gear. You dont wuss out and shift slow, just pull it in and drive it like its not your car, and you dont like the person.

Twin disks are sweet though, and personally i think if they make a good one for the subawho i would buy one. I beat the crap out of mine, its real easy to drive. Exedy sucks ass so i understand them telling you to stay away from them. My buddy put a exedy twin in his evo 9. Once the car starting making 450-500 the clutch wouldnt hold 1-2-3rd at all.
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:23 PM   #52
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well i can understand them recomending a act. You can run a heavy ass pressure plate with a single disk, still kinda load up the drive train and launch it. Theres no syncros to wear. Straight cut boxes are loud, driving normal and double clutching it will silence the clanking in the "crash box" but driving is super simple. Just gotta put it into gear. You dont wuss out and shift slow, just pull it in and drive it like its not your car, and you dont like the person.

Twin disks are sweet though, and personally i think if they make a good one for the subawho i would buy one. I beat the crap out of mine, its real easy to drive. Exedy sucks ass so i understand them telling you to stay away from them. My buddy put a exedy twin in his evo 9. Once the car starting making 450-500 the clutch wouldnt hold 1-2-3rd at all.
I've seen quite a few Exedy's with the splines sheared off.I've always been told to stay away from them as well.
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:58 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by alwaysinboost View Post
funny, I got over 100 passes on my evo, most of them in the 1.7 - 60' range, before the stock organic clutch finally started to slip in high gear.
I think it would have lasted longer but I glazed it at island doing 6 back to back runs, all mid to low 1.7 60's and no cool down time.
Thats awesome, mine lasted about 150 passes and 30k but it still was not slipping when I took it out..It's all about driving style

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well i can understand them recomending a act. You can run a heavy ass pressure plate with a single disk, still kinda load up the drive train and launch it. Theres no syncros to wear. Straight cut boxes are loud, driving normal and double clutching it will silence the clanking in the "crash box" but driving is super simple. Just gotta put it into gear. You dont wuss out and shift slow, just pull it in and drive it like its not your car, and you dont like the person.

Twin disks are sweet though, and personally i think if they make a good one for the subawho i would buy one. I beat the crap out of mine, its real easy to drive. Exedy sucks ass so i understand them telling you to stay away from them. My buddy put a exedy twin in his evo 9. Once the car starting making 450-500 the clutch wouldnt hold 1-2-3rd at all.
Thats most likely due to the fact he was making more then the reccomended tq for the specific model, not sure that is exedy's fault there..The non carbon twins are not rated to hold insane tq.

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I've seen quite a few Exedy's with the splines sheared off.I've always been told to stay away from them as well.
I think it is a matter of multiple discs and contact suface area on the shaft, especially since it is the mitsu shaft that usually lets go anyway..I would think any multi-disc clutch would have the same effect, not necessarily exedy only..
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:04 AM   #54
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Thats awesome, mine lasted about 150 passes and 30k but it still was not slipping when I took it out..It's all about driving style
so true, thats why there are guys out there with blown TC's on stock cars after doing only a couple runs.
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:31 AM   #55
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A few years ago I almost bought Scot Wegman's old 1G.Shep had come into posession of it and was selling it.I guess from what John told me the car had an Exedy in it that had failed.The car had seen more dyno time than anything.
I'm partial to Tilton.When I bought my Talon from Ivey,he told me that he had never had such great results with a clutch as he did with the Tilton carbon/carbon.I figure why change something that works.
I especially like the idea of the hydraulic release bearing Tilton utilizes.
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:05 PM   #56
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Not to back track but another plus about the Twin disc is that you will have much less driveline shock when launching.
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Old 11-14-2008, 09:31 PM   #57
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I thought, but that's not 350whp then.
http://www.forcefed4.com/gallery2/d/5824-2/DSCF2540.JPG

363 was the final number.

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Old 11-15-2008, 11:47 AM   #58
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Since you have one, give me the run down. Is it REALLY that hard to drive it? Does it always make loud ass bangs, clanks, etc?
If you drive the car on the street a lot, I wouldn't recommend the dog box. The whining is loud but tolerable but you HAVE to shift every gear with authority. There will be a loud clunk on most down shifts and even shifting into gear at a redlight. I drive mine on the street sometimes but I'm met with stares just about everywhere from all the noise.

Also, the Tilton carbon-carbon is definitely the nicest clutch I've ever used also.
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Old 11-15-2008, 01:13 PM   #59
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If you drive the car on the street a lot, I wouldn't recommend the dog box. The whining is loud but tolerable but you HAVE to shift every gear with authority. There will be a loud clunk on most down shifts and even shifting into gear at a redlight. I drive mine on the street sometimes but I'm met with stares just about everywhere from all the noise.

Also, the Tilton carbon-carbon is definitely the nicest clutch I've ever used also.
I don't know about the PPG DB but the Shep DB I run in my car does'nt whine.
I can shift at 10,500 rpms just as smooth as I can shift at 7,000 rpm's.The shifter engages gears so easy it feels like the linkage is disconnected.

Driven,whats your current setup?
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Old 11-15-2008, 05:57 PM   #60
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Are your gears straight cut? They should whine pretty loud if they are straight cut.
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