01-18-2007, 02:41 PM | #1 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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so uh, one of the flanges on my test pipe is hitting my oil pan
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01-18-2007, 02:57 PM | #2 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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Umm, if it keeps rubbing and bumping into it it will rub a hole over time.
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01-18-2007, 02:59 PM | #3 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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that like, ****ing sucks a lot.
what should I do? most places wont touch it cause I have no cat, I think i'd be good to go if someone cut the flange off and moved it, or just straight up welded my test pipe to the downpipe eliminating the flange all together
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01-18-2007, 06:27 PM | #4 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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okay I went around today, noone will do it :[
were can I go that will cut off the flange, rotate, and reweld it, or just cut the flange off and weld the test pipe to the downpipe?
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01-18-2007, 06:45 PM | #6 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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eh, i'd rather not cause then i'd have to drive around with open headers and my car is already pretty loud
plus if i take it off we can't tell if it's going to clear the oil pan
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01-19-2007, 12:34 PM | #8 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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okay I'm hearing that the flange can be grinded down with a dremel or something to make it clear the lip of the oil pan. i'm short on cash so if anyone would be willing to do this with me ill give you 30 bucks. i don't have a working dremel or a jack atm ( stupid ass bottle jack doesn't lift for **** )
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01-19-2007, 01:17 PM | #9 |
Noob-Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2007
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yeah i would make sure that it is not hitting the oil pan. part of the sump's responsibility is to cool off the oil and it's going to be a lot harder if there's some hot exhaust touching the pan
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01-19-2007, 01:20 PM | #10 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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Why don't you just go to a mom and pop muffler shop, or a local service center? I'm sure they would do it.
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01-19-2007, 01:31 PM | #11 |
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i was under the impression it was touching the dip in the pan, but after looking yesterday i think it's just the dip
i took it to an exhaust place and 2 service stations and neither one would touch it unless i took it off the car and brought it in. one of them actualy tried to demand i buy a cat and let them put it on before i left, but they changed there mind when i started pressing the button on the lift while standing under my car
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01-19-2007, 01:39 PM | #12 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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I don't see why a locally run operation would make you do that..hm. Meineke/Midas, yes..but like Joes Muffler?
Weird.
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01-19-2007, 01:45 PM | #13 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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one of the places i went to was a performance shop that i've gone to a couple of times, even had my car dynoed at. i just don't think he wanted to grind it, said to take it off and bring it back :/
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01-19-2007, 01:48 PM | #14 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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Hm. This is very interesting. Note to self, buy hi-flo cats..lol
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01-23-2007, 05:17 PM | #16 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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nope, both flanged ( ypipe and cat ) are touching, and the stock y-pipe isn't a dirrect fit to my headers
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01-23-2007, 11:31 PM | #17 |
Tri-State Addict
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why don't you heat wrap that little part? that will cut down on the friction, and the heat on the pan...
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01-24-2007, 09:49 PM | #19 | |
Tri-State Aficionado
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Quote:
hey drew why dont you take some pics. seriously. its really hard to get a picture of whats really going on. open them up in MS paint and draw circles and arrows. label them. that way we can see whats going on. bottom line: youre gonna wear a hole in your oil pan. it will look like you gauged it out with wood working tools. start by grinding away at the flange. if that doesnt make enough clearance, take it to mighty muffler on 322/452 (bethel road and market street) in aston. they do custom exhaust work. you can have all the customness you want. your motor is worth more than the $30 youre looking to spend. pony up before you blow out that hole, lose your oil, and grenade it. |
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01-24-2007, 09:57 PM | #20 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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actually I fixed it today but I also managed to crack the oil pan, so now I got bigger problems heh
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