12-04-2017, 02:15 PM | #401 | ||
Dealing with stupidity.
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12-04-2017, 08:31 PM | #402 | ||
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But it involves shipping them your stuff and I'm sure they'll tell you it wasn't installed correctly. Instead I decided to just order all of the OEM components today from Subaru including the timing covers that the belt fried instead of chancing it again with them. I know it was a fluke because they sell SO many kits, but for my sanity I just couldn't put another one of their tensioners on it. |
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01-07-2018, 12:50 AM | #403 |
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Update time!
I got the Scoobie back on the road, and she's been purring ever since. Turns out it was the water pump that failed prematurely, belt skipped teeth, ruined almost everything in the timing assembly. Thankfully nothing was hurt and I caught it just in time. I purchased all OEM components this time around. I also redid a wheel bearing in the back left that I did when I got the car. The hub was bad, but I didn't replace it the first time (figured it was fine) so it wiped out my fresh bearing. This time I put in a fresh Dorman hub as well as a Timken bearing. It's crazy how much of a difference a wheel bearing can make. It has been singing for 30K miles and I just now got around to repairing it. I can hear myself think again. I have also been working quite a bit on the iX parts cars, but finally took a night to work on the iS. I got done a few things that I've been meaning to do for a long time, along with one major development in the build. I first addressed the rear end. My differential pigtail was deteriorated, so I spliced in a new one. I also filled the diff with Redline (w/LSD additive) and installed my fresh speed sensor. No bueno: Bueno: Something I've been putting off for a long time: wiring up my ellipsoids. Now for the bigger update. I visited mjweimer over the weekend and got to see his wonderful aluminum 24v build, and we also did some trading. In order to actually enjoy my car, I brought home Matt's 140K M20b25 to install in my car and finally get it on the road to enjoy during this upcoming season. My car was auto when I bought it, so I also have to convert the car over to manual when I drop the M20 in. I cannot install the engine right away because I have yet to spray the engine bay (Indiana is cold as of late), so I'm going to reseal the M20 while I wait for warmth and get everything ready to drop in. I have a very limited budget for the M20 and still need an exhaust among other things, so I am going to try my hardest to not go crazy with mods. 24v is still the long term plan, but I think with the complete suspension overhaul I've done to the car, the M20 will be a lot of fun. I have half the mind to sell the 24v stuff and do a simple 2.8L M20 build with a mild cam, but don't want to lose money on what I just purchased 24v-wise, so I think I'll stick with it and hopefully finish when time and money allow. That's all for now, folks. |
01-16-2018, 04:59 PM | #406 |
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If that's the case...I'm sure there are more than a few nutcases here.
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01-16-2018, 10:55 PM | #407 | |
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And the plus side is I still get thumbs up from 55 y/o female environmentalists all the way home |
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01-17-2018, 12:02 AM | #408 |
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Well, I guess I should say the risky use of engine crane more so than the engine in the trunk, lol. I've carted engines around in my cars, but I always just picked them up by myself or grabbed a buddy. Surely picking up a I6 BMW engine by hand is nearly an impossibility, lol
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01-17-2018, 01:23 PM | #409 | |
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01-18-2018, 11:18 AM | #410 |
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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My Ride: 67.5 Roadster, 00 Outback, 93.5 Supra tt, 88 Shiro, Tundra, turbo sc300 iTrader: (5)
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Hey found myself an e30, planning on doing the 2jz swap. I'll post pics in my thread when i get the car over to the shop!
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01-18-2018, 11:44 AM | #411 | |
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I think you can use a front sump VVTi lower pan and pickup to fit over the subframe. Also it goes without saying (and I doubt you'll need any help) but if you have any E30 related questions feel free to reach out. |
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01-18-2018, 12:06 PM | #412 |
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Thanks man! already have a motor but no trans, probably staying auto. I just need to figure out what rear diff will handle any decent amount of power. Also how big of a tire will the e30 accept? This particular one is an 87 btw
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01-18-2018, 12:29 PM | #413 | |
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As far as diff, I don't think it'll be your limiting factor. Any medium case diff (188mm, 8 bolts on back plate) will do. If you put traction down your weak point will be in the rear halfshafts. A company called CA Tuned made HD chromoly rear halfshafts but I'm not certain they make them anymore (you can call them). Obviously driveshaft shop makes an HD variant but they're crazy expensive. If you're able to hook, keep some spare used stockers around. |
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01-19-2018, 08:43 AM | #414 |
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Great to hear, i may have an extra motor to go with it, do you need any parts? Its a 1987 325i auto sedan.
What do i do about the big ass bumpers lol Last edited by empera; 01-19-2018 at 08:45 AM. |
01-19-2018, 01:45 PM | #415 | |
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Two ways to get rid of the big bumpers. 1) The red car I linked on one of the past few pages is an early model car like you have with european bumpers. That's the best option, but it's not cheap to do. Here's a link to what you need: https://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_E...985_1986_1987/ 2) The cheap way: you can actually drill a hole in each of the bumper shocks and "tuck" the metal bumpers by compressing the shocks. Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iqs5EK3LULI Edit: this is one of my favorite 2j e30 builds: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=286243 Last edited by blue91lx; 01-19-2018 at 01:54 PM. |
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02-03-2018, 10:17 PM | #418 |
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02-07-2018, 08:13 PM | #420 |
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