removing water spots from taillights/headlights

[CHAOS]

ive got water spots on my entire car... some of you know this cause i bitch about it all the time... anyway... whats the best way to get them off without any scuff marks on the plastic?

[CleanNeon98]

i wetsanded and polished mine when they were oxidized but i dont think that will help you. just try to get the area soapy, let it sit for a minute, and then rub the hell out of the area with a terry cloth or somethin

[CHAOS]

im not going to sand them... they are clear right now no way im sanding them

edit: i think i may try plastic polish

[peteyturbo]

Yes, use plastic polish, get the 3m stuff...All metal polish also works surprisingly well..But are you sure they are waterspots, thats not very common.

[D Money]

I usually just wash and wax mine every time I do the car. I've never heard of the water spots not going away.

[CleanNeon98]

i have water spots gallore on the lip of my rims lol so i know how oyu feel

[CHAOS]

yes they are water spots... they are literally on every exterior surface of the car because the previous owner didnt take the best care of it... and im doing my best to get it back to "perfect"

[JSeoul]

My only suggestion would be to do it early in the morning when the sun isn't beaming down. Or maybe in a shaded, cool area.

[Chris(NJ)]

This is caused by hard water. What you need to do is attempt to remove them by the lightest means possible. This goes w/ all types of correction. Start with a vinegar/water mixture and wash the area. If you're working on your lenses, try cutting the vinegar w/ only a small amount of water. Then proceed to wash right after to remove the remains of the vinegar off.
If this does not work, it is possible the water marks are etched into the clearcoat/plastic. You'll need a polish at this point. I sell on the site an adaptor for your cordless drill (ie: dewalt). Then attach a 4" pad to the backing plate and put some polish on it. (there are a few routes you can take depending how bad the spots are). I'd start off using some ssr1 on a white pad. See if that removes them. If not, you'll have to step up to a stronger polish (ssr2 or 2.5) on an orange pad. then finish off with a pure sealant such as EXP to seal them.

[Chris(NJ)]

heres some links for ya:

backing plate & pads;
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/bupaac.html

Polishes;
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poglco.html

sealants;
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com...-sealants.html

[CHAOS]

ill try the vinegar and water first...

[CHAOS]

well it worked very well... not 100% but i had to get within like 1/2 inch to see them and get at an angle

[ozthunder]

Zaino.

[Chris(NJ)]

Originally Posted by CHAOS

well it worked very well... not 100% but i had to get within like 1/2 inch to see them and get at an angle

Glad to hear it

[peteyturbo]

The owner must have never dried the car after he washed it with a hose..MY supra had water spots all over it but I got rid of them yesterday when I did the clean/ polish/ and wax..If you have them all over your car you really need to get your clearcoat in tip top shape before you polish or wax it or they will never go away..Most clearcoat cleaners are great for this and an orbital buffer is usually more then enough especially for such a new car..

[CHAOS]

u mean like a cleaner wax?

[peteyturbo]

Not really, that is like an all in one product..You want to do each step seperately for best results basically like this..
Wash car,dry car..
Clay bar the car (takes out heavy contaminants in clear, makes easier for cleaning the clear)
wash with mild dawn dish soap (high ph removes wax)
Clean clear with meguiars clear coat scrub/paint cleaner or similar ( cleans clearcoat of any more impurities left behind after clay, also removes scratches and wax )- water spots will be a thing of the past after this
Apply polish (adds oils for color and deepness, evens out depth of clear, this is what gives you shine and reflection)
Apply wax ( protects all the work you have done under it's protective coating)
It will take a good part of the day to do this but it is worth it, you can do it by hand also if you don't have a buffer, just be sure you are using the right kind of rags,ect. and your car and the applicator is clean during the process or you can cause scratches..
Or you can use zaino after you prep the clearcoat, it is synthetic so it is a slightly different idea and process..

Originally Posted by CHAOS

u mean like a cleaner wax?

[Chris(NJ)]

Originally Posted by peteyturbo

If you have them all over your car you really need to get your clearcoat in tip top shape before you polish or wax it or they will never go away..Most clearcoat cleaners are great for this and an orbital buffer is usually more then enough especially for such a new car..

I'm a little confused by your post. Anyway, if you have never did a full detail, you'll want to clay so you're not dragging the fallout/contaminents around w/ your random orbital or rotary. (an orbital that you find at a pep boys or similar wont be able to effectively break down the polishes to work properly, however, they can be used for applying waxes, etc) Use some clean soapy water as a clay lube. Rewash to remove any clay residue. I never suggest using dawn to wash a car since dawn is designed to pull out oils and such... eventually drying out your moldings and weatherstripping over time. From here, you can go straight to your polish. There is no need to use a paint cleaner first before polishing. If your paint is in relatively bad shape, something like ssr2.5 or optimum compound should be used first. From there, go to a less aggressive polish such as ssr1. You can than finish off using a sealant, or a glaze and wax.

[CHAOS]

just an fyi... i recently purchased a dual action porter cable

[Chris(NJ)]

Originally Posted by CHAOS

just an fyi... i recently purchased a dual action porter cable

Thats a great tool and probably the most popular. Make sure you pair up your pads and product properly for best results. ie: orange pad w/ ssr2.5, white pad w/ ssr1. Glazes & waxes on your blue and black pads. You'll need a 5" backing plate if you dont already have one to put the 6.5" pads on. And fwiw, the white pad that comes w/ the pc is just about useless unless you buy some mf bonnets for some final buffing w/ it.
Heres the page w/ the pads & backing plate on it:
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/bupaac.html

polishes are here
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/poglco.html

and sealants, waxes and glazes here;
http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com...-sealants.html