rattle can primer project

[agoodall]

i want to paint my car, but since winter is right around the corner, i would rather hold off on getting a pro to do it till spring/summer. I dont want to drive around in a white car with a green hood, so what i would like to know is if i sand it down and buy a case of rustoleum primer or even just a flat black and i spray several coats, will that make more work for whoever paints my car?

[whitezenki]

No, prolly not, but it will look ghetto.

[yellow2000S/R]

It will make hardly any more work... Just paint the hood flat black or something so its not "green". I wouldnt spray the entire car.

[jdm free]

you could probably call a autobody shop or place that paints car n ask

[whitezenki]

Keep it green. I see a primered S13 and I think ghetto, I see a black hood and I think of every honda owner near me who paints there hood black to look as if it were CF, I see a multicolored S13 and I think 'hes got to be waiting for paint'

[enigma]

Rattle can paint will probally lift when it gets hit by the stuff that a bodyshop uses, so i wouldn't paint it, unless you feel like stripping it when you go to get it painted.

[malloyboy1]

yes it will kinda be moe work. they will have to take that bull sh** off before they can paint it. just think, if you sand it down and spary it black and you dont do it right as in theres dirt or oil/grease on the hood the paint wont stick right then when they paint it if they dont get all of your paint off the stuff they put on wont stick right either.

so it will either just give them a headache or it will stick and peel off or flake off later (depending on the situation, some shops wont care they will just charge more)

[SpendOne]

here is my car when it was rattled flat black

[agoodall]

what about addressing small rust spots like on my roof and quarter panel nothing massive, areas the size of a quarter, could i sand them down and hit them with primer(spot prime)? just to make it through the winter without letting cancer spread.

[Excel_Collision]

please DON'T rattle can the car.. primer or otherwise. it will definitely make more work for someone who has to paint the car down the road.

rattle can paint is not catalyzed, so there will be no lasting durability whatsoever. even though you don't want that specific paint to last for looks, if you expect to paint over it later, it absolutely has to be durable enough to grip onto the paint underneath. basically, if you spray your car with primer or paint, it will have to be stripped before real paint goes on.

think of it this way... spray paint dries, but real paint hardens.

that's why it's no good to have underneath a good paint job. there's no durability. especially when you think about the fact that when most people psray their cars with rattle cans, they don't give the paint any kind of mechanical adhesion (i.e. sanding, scuffing, etc). they just spray away. add in a full winter, and like i said, that spray paint will probably need to be chemically strip;ped before your real paint job.

[Excel_Collision]

Originally Posted by agoodall

what about addressing small rust spots like on my roof and quarter panel nothing massive, areas the size of a quarter, could i sand them down and hit them with primer(spot prime)? just to make it through the winter without letting cancer spread.

didn';t see this one...

yes that should be fine, but keep it SMALL!

[agoodall]

thanks for the vendor knowledge EXCEL, now as far as primer goes is there a brand or type of better that is better then the rest?

[TROLL]

nice to have a pro to respond with solid info. i agree, i'd just spray the hood flat black and leave the rest of the car as is... that'll look passable for the winter and wont be too difficult to prep properly down the road. and yeah addressing the rest spots is a good idea too, i need to do that myself but i've been too lazy.

[Excel_Collision]

Originally Posted by agoodall

thanks for the vendor knowledge EXCEL, now as far as primer goes is there a brand or type of better that is better then the rest?

no problem that's what i'm here for!

good primer is a big deal if you're doing "real" work. for everything we do, we use a 2K catalyzed primer. gives us sanding ability within 45 minutes without applying heat. with heat, about 30 min. f you're doing temp stuff, it's not as inportant what brand you use, more of the type like you said. try this...

for a rust spot the size of a quarter, sand with 80 grit paper down to bare metal. keep it small like i said. sand JUST the rust with the 80 grit. once you're down to the metal, you'll still see a stain from the rust, it won't go away so just stop trying. lol. step it up to 180 grit to smooth it out a bit. with the 180 grit, feather out your edges, but no farther than about a half dollar size.

primer: etch primer will be your best bet. it's designed to 'etch' to bare metal. clean the surface with surface prep (wax and grease remover), or at least some degreasing soap and water. actually some dish soap works the best for an at home job because it cuts grease naturally. tape off an area about 1 foot by 1 foot, and dust on some of the etch primer ONLY on the bare metal spot, which should be about the size of a half dollar like i said earlier). no need to tape close or spray big. you want to avoid all hard lines made by tape. you're trying to create a feathered in look here. less primer is better.

paint?: if you hate the idea of light grey spots all over your car, even temp., like i would, after the etch primer take a scuff pad and scuff an area about 6 inches around, with the old rust spot in the center if at all possible. spray in some paint to match your car's color, clear it, and be done.

[agoodall]

if i got my car painted in november is that not a good idea, compared to doin it in march/april? i hate the mismatched colors and dull original woren paint

[Excel_Collision]

Originally Posted by agoodall

if i got my car painted in november is that not a good idea, compared to doin it in march/april? i hate the mismatched colors and dull original woren paint

not sure what you mean... are you asking if the paint job would turn out better if you had it done in the spring rather than november?

we have a steady steam of work coming in year round, we paint rain or shine, summer or winter. in the booth, it's a controlled temperature,humidity, and pressure environment. also, there are different reducers and hardeners to use for different weather conditions, so it's no better or worse quality when done at different times during the year.

now, if you were to do it in an open garage, then yes it would be much better to wait until the spring/summer. you'd have to heat the garage waayyyy too much, it wouldn't be efficient at all. for us, our propane bill is just much higher in the winter. haha

[enigma]

I'd chemically treat the rust, whit a phosphoric acid based product like picklex, or similar.

[Nismo2Honda]

Originally Posted by Excel_Collision

we have a steady steam of work coming in year round, we paint rain or shine, summer or winter. in the booth, it's a controlled temperature,humidity, and pressure environment. also, there are different reducers and hardeners to use for different weather conditions, so it's no better or worse quality when done at different times during the year.

With that info I'd get it painted now

[Excel_Collision]

Originally Posted by enigma

I'd chemically treat the rust, whit a phosphoric acid based product like picklex, or similar.

that would work also, but isn't really necessary. if you're doing it on a very large scale where you have TONS of rust, that's one thing, but for little infected spots there's no point really. as long as you physically remove the rust itself, and immediately coat the affected area with something like a decent etch primer before refinishing, there should be no problems with it coming back at all.