08-20-2011, 04:57 PM | #1882 | ||
Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Willingboro
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My Ride: 1996 240sx & 1989 240sx Coupe iTrader: (0)
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Heli-coils are extremely interesting in an engineering sense.
The standard rule for hardware among mech-E's is that your engagement depth should be the same or more than your diameter (example, M10 bolt, should engage 10mm of thread). This is cool, until you start messing with threaded aluminum holes with a steel bolt, at which point you should have 1.5 - 2.0 times the depth for any given diameter (Steel is substantially stronger than Aluminum, especially in terms of threading). Heli-coils are a really cool way to cheat this number, usually you can get away with a heli-coil that is the same as the diameter of your bolt - if it's the coil is going into aluminum. Love those things. Looks cool Troll.
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08-21-2011, 12:51 PM | #1883 | |
The [TST] Don
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Langhorne, PA
Member #3
My Ride: 07 Bugeye STi - 94 Supra iTrader: (6)
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Thanks for the info Dustin... I did do some reading about thread engagement being 1x diameter in steel and 1.5x in aluminum (and that coarse threads are generally better in aluminum as well). Fine threads are preferred in a high vibration environment because they are less likely to vibrate loose since the thread pitch is less steep. I didn't know any of this before this situation so it was educational.
I got the car all buttoned up and back on the road last night. Just had to get the interior shifter stuff together, but front bumper, headlights, and driveshaft connected, then get the car off the jackstands (which is a process). First drive with the new clutch: 1) it engages at the tip top of my pedal travel which I don't like, and 2) I suck at driving this thing! I feel like I'm learning to drive stick all over again. Pulling into my driveway slowly last night to not scrape my lip, I struggled to engage first on a slight uphill, stalled, and then struggled again to get it going. At 2:30am with my loud exhaust, it stressed me out. I'm sure it will get better but I've got to admit that right now I suck, haha! I lowered the engagement point on the pedal this morning a bit so its not at the bitter edge which I think will help, and other than that I just need some practice to get the feel down.
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08-21-2011, 10:55 PM | #1885 | |
The [TST] Don
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Langhorne, PA
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My Ride: 07 Bugeye STi - 94 Supra iTrader: (6)
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Yeah, I drove it a bit this afternoon and lowering the engagement point on the pedal a bit made a nice improvement. Engagement still takes me longer and is rougher than I'm used to but I'll give it some time. Trista was busting my balls about my driving, then I let her give it a shot and now she understands, haha.
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08-21-2011, 10:56 PM | #1886 | ||
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Ha.. ha.... ha... Well, I'm not the one who stalled.. I think my transactions were a bit smoother than yours
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08-24-2011, 12:00 PM | #1888 | |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: SNJ
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My Ride: JDM TyTe 1988 Single Turbo 1JZ 5-Speed Supra & 1998 Twin Turbo 6-Speed Supra BPU like a muhf***a! iTrader: (0)
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the clutch isn't bad at all. i didn't stall
just saying, lol
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08-28-2011, 11:30 PM | #1891 | |
The [TST] Don
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Langhorne, PA
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My Ride: 07 Bugeye STi - 94 Supra iTrader: (6)
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I actually ordered it from Amazon... found out the part number for the kit I needed and that was the cheapest place to get it. About $36 I think.
If you're in a rush you can get Recoil brand kits at Autozone in the more common thread sizes, and Fastenal should carry them also if they're local to you. They're essentially the same thing except HeliCoil is more of a "name brand" but I've used both before and they both get the job done.
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08-31-2011, 02:16 PM | #1893 | |
The [TST] Don
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Langhorne, PA
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My Ride: 07 Bugeye STi - 94 Supra iTrader: (6)
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Just a photo from the Shady Brook Farms meet last week... mostly classic cars and muscle cars so mine is a bit different. I liked this shot!
and here's another
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08-31-2011, 08:17 PM | #1896 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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Great shots, car looks amazing! How's learning the new clutch coming along? I feel like I've had to do the same thing 12 times over because of my CMC going and then needing constant readjustments over the past 3+ weeks. I feel your pain!
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08-31-2011, 08:42 PM | #1897 | |
The [TST] Don
Admin
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Langhorne, PA
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My Ride: 07 Bugeye STi - 94 Supra iTrader: (6)
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Hey, the clutch is getting better, or I'm getting better with it, or probably a bit of both. I do still want to adjust the pedal down a bit more just because it is more comfortable for me. I might install a clutch stop as well since the actual engagement range is only about an inch with this clutch so it would be nice to take out the extra movement above and below that range.
I'm actually having a frustrating car afternoon now though... I went outside to try and get my throttle body readjusted to get it idling well, but instead noticed leaking coolant from under the car. Looks like my radiator is leaking at the lower endtank. Then I hooked up the laptop to try and dial in my AFRs at idle since it has been off ever since I installed the cams... that was a big failure. The AFRs aren't responding to my adjustments as they should and any changes I made ended up making the car unstable. I ran out of daylight and patience so I'll look into it again tomorrow. Behave car... behave!
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08-31-2011, 10:58 PM | #1898 | |
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You need my awesome mechanic skills again.. That's what it is..
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09-01-2011, 07:41 AM | #1899 | |
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09-01-2011, 10:49 AM | #1900 |
Tri-State Post Whore
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lincoln University PA
Member #7769
My Ride: 2012 Scion tC iTrader: (0)
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Bryan, from my experience that sediment left over in the fluid is not normal. If I were in your shoes I would have bought new fluid. That sediment is most likely dirt and what not that was left in the trans. And since you put new fluid in when you rebuilt the whole car, it cleaned it out and now you drained it so you see the sediment.
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