Honda b20

[youraveragedsmer]

I just bough a honda hatchback as a daily driver. It came with a B20B and feels like a sled. I want to put a LS head on it. Will that give it more topend?

[redg2]

no the heads are preety much the same that wont help , but a gsr head might help. and what do you mean by sled?

[BigWhiteTodd]

yeah stock b20 has some tq but for top end get a vtec head

[youraveragedsmer]

Really slow.

[BigWhiteTodd]

well is it running right any check engine an this is going to get moved to honda chat

[driftingrx5.7]

the b20 head and the ls head is pretty much the same i have a b18b in my hatch and i like it. i never drove a civic with a b20. if you want ot trade let me know :D. but as for putting a vtech head on it i would say don't do it! puting a vtec head on a non vtec block for a daily driver can be a bad thing for a daily driver IF and i mean IF its not 100% correct it will blow and many busted head gaskets. like i said its just not good for a daily driver. racer sure, and if done right your golden. i have seen so many b series non vtec motor with vtec heads just go bad. so keep the b20 if not go with the whole b18b motor

[underpressure02]

Originally Posted by driftingrx5.7

the b20 head and the ls head is pretty much the same i have a b18b in my hatch and i like it. i never drove a civic with a b20. if you want ot trade let me know :D. but as for putting a vtech head on it i would say don't do it! puting a vtec head on a non vtec block for a daily driver can be a bad thing for a daily driver IF and i mean IF its not 100% correct it will blow and many busted head gaskets. like i said its just not good for a daily driver. racer sure, and if done right your golden. i have seen so many b series non vtec motor with vtec heads just go bad. so keep the b20 if not go with the whole b18b motor

Not sure what is so hard about doing an ls/vtec or a b20 vtec. I have been doing them since 99 and have yet to ever have an issue. I use to drive over 200 miles a day with my boosted ls/vtec with no issues.

What issues have you had or seen with ls/vtec?

[highmilehatch]

Originally Posted by driftingrx5.7

the b20 head and the ls head is pretty much the same i have a b18b in my hatch and i like it. i never drove a civic with a b20. if you want ot trade let me know :D. but as for putting a vtech head on it i would say don't do it! puting a vtec head on a non vtec block for a daily driver can be a bad thing for a daily driver IF and i mean IF its not 100% correct it will blow and many busted head gaskets. like i said its just not good for a daily driver. racer sure, and if done right your golden. i have seen so many b series non vtec motor with vtec heads just go bad. so keep the b20 if not go with the whole b18b motor

WTF are you talking about dude? "Blow and many busted headgaskets"? What??? It doesn't take a genious to put together an LS-Vtec.

If your an idiot, and you build one, it doesn't matter if it's for a daily driver or a "racer". It's still going to turn out like ****.

The reason you see so many go bad is because you or whoever your talking about have no idea what your doing. If your not going to do it 100% to begin with, don't even bother doing it.

So anyone who reads this, don't be afraid of doing LS-vtec. They are reliable when done right, which is the only way you should do things anyway.

[BigWhiteTodd]

Originally Posted by driftingrx5.7

the b20 head and the ls head is pretty much the same i have a b18b in my hatch and i like it. i never drove a civic with a b20. if you want ot trade let me know :D. but as for putting a vtech head on it i would say don't do it! puting a vtec head on a non vtec block for a daily driver can be a bad thing for a daily driver IF and i mean IF its not 100% correct it will blow and many busted head gaskets. like i said its just not good for a daily driver. racer sure, and if done right your golden. i have seen so many b series non vtec motor with vtec heads just go bad. so keep the b20 if not go with the whole b18b motor

your wrong my friend has a lsv and it has work done to it. he drives it everyday for almost a year now

[youraveragedsmer]

I understand that the vtech has a oil port in the head and nonvtech blocks don't. I just figured to up the compression and make it like a ls stroker. Has anyone built a B20 motor? would it be better to put a B18B in it.

[highmilehatch]

Keep your B20. Make sure compression is good. Get a GSR or B16 head, ARP headstuds, GSR/B16 timing belt, water pump, oil pump, dizzy, and Golden Eagle LS-vtec conversion kit. Follow the instructions that come with the kit to a T to prep the head and block.

Remove cylinder head, timing belt, water pump, oil pump, and oil pan. Clean all traces of oil off block and run a thread restorer down the head bolt holes. Clean them completely out with brakekleen afterwards and make sure they are DRY.

After prepping the block and head, install the new Vtec head with oil feed line again following the directions. Make sure everything is CLEAN. Use your preferred method for installing the ARP studs whether you use motor oil or the moly lube. I prefer motor oil and have my own torque sequence and specs that always works for me. Install new timing belt, water pump, oil pump and reseal oil pan.

Add vtec wires to A4 and D6 at ECU. Run the wires through the firewall and scavenge the plugs you need for the pressure switch and solenoid from another harness. You can even be fancy like me and have a plug that will allow you to disconnect the vtec wires like factory, rather than having them run straight from ECU to sensor. If your using a GSR IM with IAB you need to add wiring as well at A17. I just use the EVAP purge solenoid plug for the IAB sensor, and move pin A20 to A17. Most people just run a Skunk or Edelbrock IM that doesn't use IAB. Ground the black wire on the vtec pressure switch at the thermostat housing ground. You can take your time and make the wiring look factory, or you can rush the job and have a rats nest of wiring that looks like a 6 year old did the job. Order an ECU that has a basemap that is close to your setup. Make sure it disables knock. If your using a GSR head and stock IM, make sure it has IAB support.

Pull the blue 15 amp ecu fuse in the fuse box and crank the car to build oil pressure. At this time check for any leaks. Keep cranking the car until the oil pressure light goes out. Sometimes it takes a while. Put the fuse back in and your done.

OR

You can pay me $700 to do this labor, and have it done right the first time.

Now you have Vtec and a head that can actually move some air. Enjoy your added 30-40whp.

OR

You can skip the Vtec head, turbocharge the B20 (using good parts, not junk), make 300whp on pump gas and go run some 12s and maybe 11's on slicks.

[BigWhiteTodd]

Originally Posted by highmilehatch

Keep your B20. Make sure compression is good. Get a GSR or B16 head, ARP headstuds, GSR/B16 timing belt, water pump, oil pump, dizzy, and Golden Eagle LS-vtec conversion kit. Follow the instructions that come with the kit to a T to prep the head and block.

Remove cylinder head, timing belt, water pump, oil pump, and oil pan. Clean all traces of oil off block and run a thread restorer down the head bolt holes. Clean them completely out with brakekleen afterwards and make sure they are DRY.

After prepping the block and head, install the new Vtec head with oil feed line again following the directions. Make sure everything is CLEAN. Use your preferred method for installing the ARP studs whether you use motor oil or the moly lube. I prefer motor oil and have my own torque sequence and specs that always works for me. Install new timing belt, water pump, oil pump and reseal oil pan.

Add vtec wires to A4 and D6 at ECU. Run the wires through the firewall and scavenge the plugs you need for the pressure switch and solenoid from another harness. You can even be fancy like me and have a plug that will allow you to disconnect the vtec wires like factory, rather than having them run straight from ECU to sensor. If your using a GSR IM with IAB you need to add wiring as well at A17. I just use the EVAP purge solenoid plug for the IAB sensor, and move pin A20 to A17. Most people just run a Skunk or Edelbrock IM that doesn't use IAB. Ground the black wire on the vtec pressure switch at the thermostat housing ground. You can take your time and make the wiring look factory, or you can rush the job and have a rats nest of wiring that looks like a 6 year old did the job. Order an ECU that has a basemap that is close to your setup. Make sure it disables knock. If your using a GSR head and stock IM, make sure it has IAB support.

Pull the blue 15 amp ecu fuse in the fuse box and crank the car to build oil pressure. At this time check for any leaks. Keep cranking the car until the oil pressure light goes out. Sometimes it takes a while. Put the fuse back in and your done.

OR

You can pay me $700 to do this labor, and have it done right the first time.

Now you have Vtec and a head that can actually move some air. Enjoy your added 30-40whp.

OR

You can skip the Vtec head, turbocharge the B20 (using good parts, not junk), make 300whp on pump gas and go run some 12s and maybe 11's on slicks.

my roommate had his turbo it was good 20 psi but i blew a head gasket

[underpressure02]

Originally Posted by BigWhiteTodd

my roommate had his turbo it was good 20 psi but i blew a head gasket

I would blame that on tuning, misfire, and no the amount of boost.

I run over 30psi through my stock ls/vtec with a gt4088 using an autozone headgasket and never had an issue blowning headgaskets.

One night the store was closed and we needed to get the motor back together so I put the used autozone head gasket on and held over 500 hp with no issues ran it the next day and went 10's.

[BigWhiteTodd]

never said it was the amount of boost plus it was after couple thousand miles of driving car ran fine but it was all stock

[highmilehatch]

Originally Posted by BigWhiteTodd

my roommate had his turbo it was good 20 psi but i blew a head gasket

Please elaborate. What does that statement mean? Was your roommate using a half ass way to control fuel like an afc?

[BigWhiteTodd]

nah sorry well build car just bad driver haha

[youraveragedsmer]

When i take the head and oil pan off. Should i add pistons and rod. 9.6:1 ratio. I was thinking about spraying.

[Keeper1343]

not unless your turboing the car....

[youraveragedsmer]

I want it all motor. I would love to turbo it but my race car is a dsm. Thats why i bought a honda as a daily beater. With the stock B20 the car doesn't get out of its own way. The car is no fun to drive.

[highmilehatch]

Sure if you want. Have you ever replaced pistons before? Just keep it simple.

Originally Posted by youraveragedsmer

When i take the head and oil pan off. Should i add pistons and rod. 9.6:1 ratio. I was thinking about spraying.