Valve tap

[CleanNeon98]

OK so I made a thread about this before..car had valve tap when it was cold (loud for that matter) and as time went it also tapped a bit when it was fully warmed up..today i get in drive down my street and dont hear anything..it just disappeared...is that normal??

[pearl]

Maybe you ran out of vtecs?

I'd have to hear it. It may not be valve tap at all. Maybe your oil is low.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by pearl

Maybe you ran out of vtecs?

I'd have to hear it. It may not be valve tap at all. Maybe your oil is low.

Nah it used to do it all the time, and my car only burns like 1/2 of a quart per oil change..I do have to change the oil soon, could that be why its not clicking anymore??

the most recent thing I did was put my winter steelies on, and I dont think that gets rid of valve tap lol

[streetAssasin96]

maybe you just needed oil?

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by streetAssasin96

maybe you just needed oil?

how is that possible..i havent added any since my oil change..do you mean to say I should be putting in more oil?? Spec is 3.6 quarts, I use 4

[streetAssasin96]

cause sometimes you burn oil, vtak-ing all the time.

[dragonfly2k3]

Have you had the valve lash adjusted any time recently? Also, maybe you were building too much oil pressure and now that you're low it went away, or maybe it has a dsm head on it and you'll spend months trying to fix the un-fixable phantom tap.

[foss]

x2 check your vtak fluid.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by foss

x2 check your vtak fluid.

Originally Posted by streetAssasin96

cause sometimes you burn oil, vtak-ing all the time.

Thanks for the answers guys..once again proof that half of the people on this site still havent matured past 10

Originally Posted by dragonfly2k3

Have you had the valve lash adjusted any time recently? Also, maybe you were building too much oil pressure and now that you're low it went away, or maybe it has a dsm head on it and you'll spend months trying to fix the un-fixable phantom tap.

No I dindt have it done. Car has 118k miles, valve adjustment was due at 110k but i never got around to it. Il change my oil tomorrow and see if anything changes, thanks for the serious reply unlike some other people

[dragonfly2k3]

id get the adjustment done. Its not hard and wont take long. Any shop should be able to do it. Or you could with a feeler gauge a 10mm combo wrench and a flat head screw driver.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by dragonfly2k3

id get the adjustment done. Its not hard and wont take long. Any shop should be able to do it. Or you could with a feeler gauge a 10mm combo wrench and a flat head screw driver.

I dont trust a honda dealership with my car (knowing them they will **** with something else probbably) and my mechanic wont do it because hes a dumb **** nad says its not necessary to do..even though im still payin

I thought about it myself but it seems very involved for me...anyone wana do it?? cash here

[dragonfly2k3]

Do you have a repair manual? It really is not hard. Assuming its the same as most other single cams you pull off the coil on plug stuff, pull off the valve cover then take the plugs out and rotate the engine until cylinder 1 is at tdc. Then you slip your feeler gauge between the rocker and your valve. I believe intake should be around .010 and exhaust .011? Once you have adjusted cylinder 1(done by loosening the 10mm lock nut on the rocker and then turning the adjustment screw with a flat head screw driver then re-tightening the lock nut) you can rotate the engine 180* (90* at the camshaft) and check number 3 cyl. And so on and so on. Then reassemble it all and enjoy a much quieter valve train.

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by dragonfly2k3

Do you have a repair manual? It really is not hard. Assuming its the same as most other single cams you pull off the coil on plug stuff, pull off the valve cover then take the plugs out and rotate the engine until cylinder 1 is at tdc. Then you slip your feeler gauge between the rocker and your valve. I believe intake should be around .010 and exhaust .011? Once you have adjusted cylinder 1(done by loosening the 10mm lock nut on the rocker and then turning the adjustment screw with a flat head screw driver then re-tightening the lock nut) you can rotate the engine 180* (90* at the camshaft) and check number 3 cyl. And so on and so on. Then reassemble it all and enjoy a much quieter valve train.

right but how do I know its at top dead center?? will there be some kind of a resistance or anything like on a kickstart bike??

Also what are the benefits of this?? MPG? Performance? Reliability?? Or its just an overall good procedure?

Oh and what oil do you recomend. My car is rated for 5-20, now I am using 5-30 (used 5-20 3 times and decided to go higher to be nice to the car) but what do you recomend, maybe something different for the colder months??

You are being very helpful, I really apretiate it, and yes I have a haynes manual im gona go smoke a few cigs and look through to find something

[CleanNeon98]

Just looked through it, seems to be exactly as you said, and says to do them in the order of 1-3-4-2

Why is that?? Isnt cylinder 4 at TDC at the same time as 1, and 2 with 3...why does it tell you to always turn it 180 again??

Also, I gota see if I can find the timing marks tomorrow morning, if I dont see em I cant do anything

[Ninjaneonturtle]

Originally Posted by CleanNeon98

Just looked through it, seems to be exactly as you said, and says to do them in the order of 1-3-4-2

Why is that?? Isnt cylinder 4 at TDC at the same time as 1, and 2 with 3...why does it tell you to always turn it 180 again??

Also, I gota see if I can find the timing marks tomorrow morning, if I dont see em I cant do anything

I would think in this case that 1 and 3 are at TDC at the same time, like 2 and 4 would be. I could be wrong and it just has something to do with the lobe positions on the cams, which could be another reason why it tells you to turn them at 180 degrees after doing each one.

I know you can cheat to find TDC on a cylinder. You just take the plugs out and use a long wooden dowel. The highest the dowel goes, that's your TDC for that cylinder. Just don't break the dowel and you'll be fine.

[Spocknasty]

Can I get some of your Tap-B-Gone oil additive please?

[dragonfly2k3]

It tells you to do it every 180* because while 1 and 3 will be at TDC at the same time they will be on different strokes so while 1 is at TDC on the compression/power stroke 3 will still be on intake, turn it 180 and 3 is now on compression/power. You cannot measure valve clearance when a cylinder is on any other stroke than compression/power because the valves will be depressed and obviously the clearance will read 0.

[thewondererEvo]

lol i just ignored all the above posts.

dude, alot of hondas seem to tap if the valves werent adjusted after 60k and again at 120k

if your approaching your 120k get your valves adjusted. since its a lil colder out id also recommend using a little bit thinner oil. ex. if you use 10w-30 use 5w-30

if anything else just pm me ill be happy to help u...

[CleanNeon98]

Originally Posted by thewondererEvo

lol i just ignored all the above posts.

dude, alot of hondas seem to tap if the valves werent adjusted after 60k and again at 120k

if your approaching your 120k get your valves adjusted. since its a lil colder out id also recommend using a little bit thinner oil. ex. if you use 10w-30 use 5w-30

if anything else just pm me ill be happy to help u...

I guess Il just pour in some 5-30 for now..car is rated at 5-20 but im sick and tired i dont want to run to the store..its a honda itl take it like a champ

[CleanNeon98]

oil changed
valve tick is back

doesnt do it under light throttle, only when I press the pedal to a certain ammount..oil pressure goes up and thats what causes the valve tick????