E36 M3 Purchasing Help

[marshallpre1]

Hey guys,

I have an offer for my SRT-4. 97 M3 with the following mods:

"uuc intake Remus ex and motor works tunes"

copy and pasted from his email. Unfortunately, he has not told me the miles yet, and I would like to know a lot about this before plunging into it. I'm scared of BMW reliability and parts costs...

1. Common problems with an E36M?
2. Which years are the best?
3. Any comments?

I'll try to post pics later when he gets me better ones.

Thanks,
Jeremy

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by marshallpre1

Hey guys,

I have an offer for my SRT-4. 97 M3 with the following mods:

"uuc intake Remus ex and motor works tunes"

copy and pasted from his email. Unfortunately, he has not told me the miles yet, and I would like to know a lot about this before plunging into it. I'm scared of BMW reliability and parts costs...

1. Common problems with an E36M?
2. Which years are the best?
3. Any comments?

I'll try to post pics later when he gets me better ones.

Thanks,
Jeremy

Man...there's so much information to post!!!

When I was looking for mine, I looked for an adult owned, stock vehicle. With that being said, the intake and exhaust are very mild mods, so I wouldn't worry about that. You probably would have swapped those parts out eventually anyway. I have no heard of "motor works tunes", so I have no idea what the hell that is about. Mileage does play a role with these cars (as it does with all cars), but more importantly you want to know about maintenance...that I can guarantee you!!! Yes, maintenance on these cars IS that important. Receipts are your best friend.

1) First and foremost the cooling system. The stock system is KNOWN to fail...all the time. The **** plastic stock pieces (radiator end tanks, plastic water pump impeller, thermostat housing) crack and have been known to QUICKLY overheat the motor thus warping the head. These motors have a wide range of operating temperatures before you'll even see that guage move. The plastic impeller pumps have been known to break and cause even more damage. You want to make sure the water pump has been replaced with a metal impeller pump, the thermostat has been changed, thermostat housing (some people prefer the aluminum housing, some people swear by the stock plastic unit...I went with aluminum), the radiator, expansion tank, belts, hoses, BMW coolant, gaskets, etc. I JUST did this on my M, so feel free to ask more questions.

1a) Next is the oil system. The S50/S52 motors require A LOT of oil. It calls for 6.9 quarts but many people run an additional quart without any signs of windage, etc. Without the proper amount of oil you will get severe lifter tick (which I just experienced and remedied).

1b) BUSHINGS!!!!!!! This is just as important as the cooling system. All M3's shine because of their ridiculously stellar handling. If your bushings are in **** shape, the car won't handle nearly as well as it should. Front control arms/bushings, tie rods, rear trailing arm bushings, all 4 ball joints in the rear, lower control arm bushings, differential and subframe bushings...I could go on forever.

1c) Lastly, make sure you rear subframe, rear trailing arms sockets, and differential mounts are all in good condition. Those parts are known to break loose at the mounts over time if not properly taken care of...or if driven in the salt due to rusting. There are reinforcement plates available for those areas as well as many other areas.

2) The best years are a matter of opinion...

'95=OBDI S50 3.0L I6 with 240hp
'97-'99=ODBII S52 3.2L with 240hp

'95 don't have a lot of the **** emissions components that the '96-'99's have. You can also chip their ecu for tunes. '96-'99 has a bunch of **** emission components and you have to have the ecu reflashed for tunes. '96-'99 had some updates in suspension and parts in general and for that reason those years are my personal favorites. But you could read for weeks (which I have) about the differences and preferences.

3) If you're going to seriously consider buying ANY e36 M3, I HIGHLY recommend a PPI and have someone look the whole car over first. It could end up being the best money you've ever spent.

I could go on and on about this for days...but I'll leave it at this for now...until other questions arise.

[twastheglow]

This should help...

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=300562

[russiankid]

95's had a 310Z transmission which is a bit more weak than the 96+ models that have a 320Z trans. However, the 320Z does have more problems with synchro's but not always true.

Just throwing in my nerdyness in there.

[marshallpre1]

Well thanks guys. Sounds like a lot of possible headaches. I'm going to have to pass...

Jeremy

[sc13mw]

what twastheglow said and you can check this out also
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=379325

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by marshallpre1

Well thanks guys. Sounds like a lot of possible headaches. I'm going to have to pass...

Jeremy

Wow...I was not expecting that response. They aren't any more of a headache than any other car...you just have to stay on top of them more. But either way, you're welcome.

[marshallpre1]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

Wow...I was not expecting that response. They aren't any more of a headache than any other car...you just have to stay on top of them more. But either way, you're welcome.

I have no problem with maintenance as my Supra is maintained very well, but I just can't deal with items just completely failing out of the blue, ie. thermostats and waterpumps? That's pretty ridiculous... If it was a lower mileaged one, I would consider it, plus the guy who offered it to me seemed to be a kid.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by marshallpre1

I have no problem with maintenance as my Supra is maintained very well, but I just can't deal with items just completely failing out of the blue, ie. thermostats and waterpumps? That's pretty ridiculous... If it was a lower mileaged one, I would consider it, plus the guy who offered it to me seemed to be a kid.

My best advice if you're looking for one would be find a well maintained one, change the rear shock mounts (cheap and super easy), refresh the entire cooling system (Zygmunt Motors sells a refresh kit with EVERYTHING YOU NEED for less than $400 and it takes less than a day to do all the work), replace the rear trailing arm bushings, and call it a day. The other **** you can tackle as you get the time and money. The couple things I just mentioned are the only real critical things.

[marshallpre1]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

My best advice if you're looking for one would be find a well maintained one, change the rear shock mounts (cheap and super easy), refresh the entire cooling system (Zygmunt Motors sells a refresh kit with EVERYTHING YOU NEED for less than $400 and it takes less than a day to do all the work), replace the rear trailing arm bushings, and call it a day. The other **** you can tackle as you get the time and money. The couple things I just mentioned are the only real critical things.

Alright man, I actually found one I like, but I'm awaiting his response on whether he wants to trade or not...

What about VANOS? Any issues with them?

Jeremy

[sc13mw]

if the vanos is bad or going bad it will sound like marbles in a can. it's located at the front of the motor

[marshallpre1]

Originally Posted by sc13mw

if the vanos is bad or going bad it will sound like marbles in a can. it's located at the front of the motor

ah thanks

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by sc13mw

if the vanos is bad or going bad it will sound like marbles in a can. it's located at the front of the motor

Exactly, the Vanos is just BMW's version of variable valve timing. If it's going bad it will sound just like he mentioned. But don't freak out if it is. A new unit is around $400 or less and there are lots of diy's on how to replace it. It's not going to hurt your motor or anything, it'll just hamper performance and gas mileage.

[russiankid]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

Exactly, the Vanos is just BMW's version of variable valve timing. If it's going bad it will sound just like he mentioned. But don't freak out if it is. A new unit is around $400 or less and there are lots of diy's on how to replace it. It's not going to hurt your motor or anything, it'll just hamper performance and gas mileage.

Come on Mike, you're scaring him! You can rebuild the Vanos unit yourself. The Vanos system fails because the internal seals are poorly designed. Beisan Systems sells the two seals for $35 shipped (redesigned btw), and it will take a day at most to replace them.

Oh btw, thermostats and waterpumps going is not something new to the automotive world. If you replace both when you get the car, along with hoses, you will be just fine. Things don't just break, they will let themselves known ahead of time.

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by russiankid

Come on Mike, you're scaring him! You can rebuild the Vanos unit yourself. The Vanos system fails because the internal seals are poorly designed. Beisan Systems sells the two seals for $35 shipped (redesigned btw), and it will take a day at most to replace them.

Oh btw, thermostats and waterpumps going is not something new to the automotive world. If you replace both when you get the car, along with hoses, you will be just fine. Things don't just break, they will let themselves known ahead of time.

Here you go...this is what I was refering to. http://drvanos.com/index.php?option=...&id=1&Itemid=2

A fully rebuilt unit for $250 + a refundable $100 core charge. This is the route I'm going to take when I need to cross this bridge.

[sc13mw]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

Here you go...this is what I was refering to. http://drvanos.com/index.php?option=...&id=1&Itemid=2

A fully rebuilt unit for $250 + a refundable $100 core charge. This is the route I'm going to take when I need to cross this bridge.

i was thinking the same thing heard real good things about drvanos

[twastheglow]

Originally Posted by sc13mw

i was thinking the same thing heard real good things about drvanos

I've heard NOTHING but excellent things...period.

[marshallpre1]

The people I contacted about their E36M never got back to me... I guess the search continues...

[russiankid]

Originally Posted by twastheglow

Here you go...this is what I was refering to. http://drvanos.com/index.php?option=...&id=1&Itemid=2

A fully rebuilt unit for $250 + a refundable $100 core charge. This is the route I'm going to take when I need to cross this bridge.

To be honest, Dr.Vanos does the same thing that one can do themselves. Only thing is the solenoid is also replaced in the Dr.Vanos unit, but those usually don't go out. What is common are the two piston seals, and there is a "bearing" that you can replace. Most common is just the two seals. Dr.Vanos is easier to replace though as you don't have to disassemble as much.

[PAFirefighter11]

I know this is old but if you end up with an E36 M3 you will LOVE it. When it works right, and is maintained, it's one of the most fun vehicles you can own.