12-29-2009, 02:11 AM | #22 |
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few quick updates. The car has stayed mostly stock. Today I installed a 6000k hid kit that ravens got for xmas but didnt work with his car. I also ordered KW V1s, but the selled just informed me the rear adjusters dont fit the springs... wtf? What should my plan from here be?
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01-04-2010, 02:37 PM | #23 |
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Ok, so I ordered the KW V1s, and they showed up. They are NIB. They have scratches from shipping, but there are no hardware or tooling marks on them. So I can tell they've never been installed. There is not fluid on the struts. BUT when compressed, the struts do not completely rebound by themselves, they go 1-2 inches and stop. All 4, fronts and rears do this. Is this how they're supposed to be? Did I get a bad kit? Is it part of KWs overdamped system?
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01-04-2010, 04:39 PM | #24 |
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If you could compress all 4 shocks with your bare hands, the shocks are blown. They're designed to control the energy from the spring.
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01-05-2010, 04:38 AM | #26 |
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10-4. What is the most likely cause of them being blown from factory? Also, I must note that if i try to press hard they wont compress, but if i very slowly apply a light pressure, they will compress. I found that wierd too.
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01-05-2010, 09:32 AM | #27 |
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I seriously doubt they're blown and am not sure why you're trying to compress them by hand to begin with.
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01-07-2010, 12:18 PM | #29 |
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So, the coilovers are here, and as I promised, here is a pic update, including a full install pic set, with some helpful hints for those who plan to mod an e36 as well.
So, we will start. The car as it sat before can be seen on page one. The car jacked and getting ready to begin the front install. my ghetto ass method of holding the hub up while the strut was out My method of getting the tab of the hub out of the channel on the strut. Thread a wheel bolt in, then put a leverage bar on the bolt and just pry it out, just make sure you have something in place to catch the hub so that it doesnt tear your brake line/abs sensor wire. the fronts just about out. my buddy finishing up droppin the drivers side struts. quick shot of the stock engine bay BMW put a ridiculous quantity of thread lock on all of the front suspension hardware The fronts sitting next to the kit. This is why the kit was only 500 for a 1600 kit. One old style plastic spring seat, and one new style aluminum spring seat. I didnt have a through drive socket/ratchet, but this method works well. Clamp a socket real tight into a set of vise grips(around the base so you dont crack the wall) and then put an allen wrench through the middle. Worked well for me. Fronts in Front ride height(the block of wood is decieving, more high qual pics of current stance hopefully today) Rears: Notice anything wrong here? how bout now? yes, thats the rear spring in 2 pieces. The haynes manual will tell you to remove the axle to get the rear spring out, instead i put a ratchet/socket on the rear hub/arm bolt, then rested the ratchet againt the caliper and pryed down. MAKE SURE to keep an eye on both the cv boots, as well as you brake/abs lines. You CAN tear them if you pry too far. Thats basically all I have. more pics to come in the near future hopefully.
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01-11-2010, 06:29 PM | #33 |
Tri-State Addict
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so its still up on jacks?
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01-22-2010, 04:01 AM | #35 |
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so, after dicking around for ever and ever, I have 1 shot of my cars current stance. It also now has staggered M contour wheels, black seats, and a weighted M shift knob.
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01-24-2010, 04:50 AM | #39 |
Tri-State Post Whore
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thats because the masking is very visible. My photog said hed try to re-edit it. Thanks for all the good words so far guys. I will try to get pics with the new wheels soon as well, they really make the car.
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01-24-2010, 01:07 PM | #40 |
Tri-State Addict
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great pic. see if he can mask some tire shine lol
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