MY very own s13 build.. RHD, SR20, full cage etc(moar pics)

[zidek]

sil80wis knows what he's talking about and know the logic and know-how behind that comment. i do as well (i'm a bit farther in my build) and from what i see take his advice. you seem pretty new at everything and should consider others opinion before you make a decision you'll regret later

[Ace]

Originally Posted by AngeloAJC

i cant believe someone just called BC a cheap company haha

It's a shame you don't know any better, as they are nothing more than a ripoff copycat company. They ARE NOT Crower. Dont' confuse them.

If you're content running junk, that's fine. I'd rather spend less money and make more power with QUALITY parts, that are actualyl researched and designed for an engine...not just copied and cut into crappy blanks.

To each their own though. There's a reason why JWT/HKS/Tomei cammed cars all make more power than BC.

FWIW: JWT S4's would be perfeect, and you don't need to change your springs or retainers. On top of that, they are designed on the stock springs. Safe lobe profiles are valvetrain friendly. Better than BC throwing huge seat pressure at them and wondering why they crack.

[Ace]

Originally Posted by howyfeltersnatch

1) stock cams with upgraded springs/retainers and stock rockers?

JWT cams are valvetrain safe. If you insist on springs, stick with similar brand.

IE: JWT cams, JWT springs HKS cams, HKS springs

Originally Posted by howyfeltersnatch

im only going to be reving to 6,800rpm thanks to the nistune and only boosting 1.1 bar

6800 is wasting your time. Another 1000 rpm is plenty safe. By the time that top mount spools, you'll be shifting and loosing all the power.

[howyfeltersnatch]

Originally Posted by Ace

It's a shame you don't know any better, as they are nothing more than a ripoff copycat company. They ARE NOT Crower. Dont' confuse them.

If you're content running junk, that's fine. I'd rather spend less money and make more power with QUALITY parts, that are actualyl researched and designed for an engine...not just copied and cut into crappy blanks.

To each their own though. There's a reason why JWT/HKS/Tomei cammed cars all make more power than BC.

FWIW: JWT S4's would be perfeect, and you don't need to change your springs or retainers. On top of that, they are designed on the stock springs. Safe lobe profiles are valvetrain friendly. Better than BC throwing huge seat pressure at them and wondering why they crack.

i was kinda under the assumption that BC was Brian Crower....... maybe i never noticed BC being a different company. i never bought or used anything from them... but i thought crower was a reputable company? ive got nothing against the JWT stuff at all i just never looked into any of their products, but i like the idea of the JWT S4's you mentioned. thanks a lot for your feedback, ill check them out

Originally Posted by Ace

JWT cams are valvetrain safe. If you insist on springs, stick with similar brand.

IE: JWT cams, JWT springs HKS cams, HKS springs




6800 is wasting your time. Another 1000 rpm is plenty safe. By the time that top mount spools, you'll be shifting and loosing all the power.

i got you on the similar brand stuff.. and for the turbo, im not quite sure how its going to flow yet or when its going to make power. the reason i said 6800 was because if i did stay stock rockers and springs i didnt wanna have a problem with them aka broken rocker etc

[Ace]

Originally Posted by howyfeltersnatch

i was kinda under the assumption that BC was Brian Crower....... maybe i never noticed BC being a different company. i never bought or used anything from them... but i thought crower was a reputable company?

BC isn't Crower. Crower has been making Valvetrain/Engine stuff forever for both Domestics and Imports. Brian Crower (shares the name) simply copys junk in China and rebadges it as their own. Shame they are able to get away with it, but that is is life.

Originally Posted by howyfeltersnatch

ive got nothing against the JWT stuff at all i just never looked into any of their products, but i like the idea of the JWT S4's you mentioned. thanks a lot for your feedback, ill check them out

JWT is one of the few (few being Tomei and HKS) that actually do research still on SR20's and still develop their products. They are top notch, and made in the USA.

I usually Suggest the S3 cams to T2 falnged guys, and S4's to T3 flanged guys like yourself :D The S4's match the upper midrange/top end much better. Either way, both cams will work, but if you're looking to maximize your setup, the S4 cam is the way to go.

Originally Posted by howyfeltersnatch

i got you on the similar brand stuff.. and for the turbo, im not quite sure how its going to flow yet or when its going to make power. the reason i said 6800 was because if i did stay stock rockers and springs i didnt wanna have a problem with them aka broken rocker etc

RPM limit isn't going to make any difference of the valvetrain. Broken rockers are always the end result of human error and unobtainable RPM. Mis shifts, launch controllers, etc etc, break rockers.

You should be PLENTY fine to spin her to 7800 without any issue on that T3 based turbo :D

Keep us updated!

[howyfeltersnatch]

Originally Posted by Ace

BC isn't Crower. Crower has been making Valvetrain/Engine stuff forever for both Domestics and Imports. Brian Crower (shares the name) simply copys junk in China and rebadges it as their own. Shame they are able to get away with it, but that is is life.

JWT is one of the few (few being Tomei and HKS) that actually do research still on SR20's and still develop their products. They are top notch, and made in the USA.

I usually Suggest the S3 cams to T2 falnged guys, and S4's to T3 flanged guys like yourself :D The S4's match the upper midrange/top end much better. Either way, both cams will work, but if you're looking to maximize your setup, the S4 cam is the way to go.

RPM limit isn't going to make any difference of the valvetrain. Broken rockers are always the end result of human error and unobtainable RPM. Mis shifts, launch controllers, etc etc, break rockers.

You should be PLENTY fine to spin her to 7800 without any issue on that T3 based turbo :D

Keep us updated!

thanks for all that info. it deff is helping out alot, i really just have to make up my freakin mind... to build or not to build? of course i want to.. but doing it by myself makes me want to just slap head studs and headgasket on and put it back together and get it tuned i dont wanna bite off more than i can chew with this

finally got the nistune from tyler @ anarchy performance. just waiting on me to pull the head to see what i need, then we can make an order

[Ace]

Originally Posted by howyfeltersnatch

thanks for all that info. it deff is helping out alot, i really just have to make up my freakin mind... to build or not to build? of course i want to.. but doing it by myself makes me want to just slap head studs and headgasket on and put it back together and get it tuned i dont wanna bite off more than i can chew with this

finally got the nistune from tyler @ anarchy performance. just waiting on me to pull the head to see what i need, then we can make an order

Well it really depends on what you want to do with the car, and the overal goals. I mean if it's going to see a ton of track abuse, high heat, etc etc, I like to always suggest at least Forged Pistons to people...however that's not to say that the OEM ones won't work, it's just sake of mind for the cost.


Personally, if you've got the time/space I would tear it down, and refresh it all...15 year old engine with a life of turbo abuse...just for the sake of midn alone I'd tear it down, have the machine shop clean the block to get any old oil clump and etc out of it, and then throw new bearings, and at least new rings if you don't want to buy pistons. New cam oilers etc etc. This way you know there wont' be an issue.

[howyfeltersnatch]

Originally Posted by Ace

Well it really depends on what you want to do with the car, and the overal goals. I mean if it's going to see a ton of track abuse, high heat, etc etc, I like to always suggest at least Forged Pistons to people...however that's not to say that the OEM ones won't work, it's just sake of mind for the cost.


Personally, if you've got the time/space I would tear it down, and refresh it all...15 year old engine with a life of turbo abuse...just for the sake of midn alone I'd tear it down, have the machine shop clean the block to get any old oil clump and etc out of it, and then throw new bearings, and at least new rings if you don't want to buy pistons. New cam oilers etc etc. This way you know there wont' be an issue.

i wanna drive the car without having to worry if im beating on it too hard. eventually ill test my skills at drifting once or twice once its sone to see if im any good at it.. (i doubt it) and a few passes at the strip. id like big numbers but its just too expensive at this point in my life.

im gonna take your advice on that, im not trying to have it turn into a year long project right now. ive decided to just rebuild the motor like you said.
send it out get it cleaned. new bearings, seals, rings etc and just run what i have.. it should be good enough for 325ish (im hoping) and just save up to build it fully later.

[Ace]

Originally Posted by howyfeltersnatch

im gonna take your advice on that, im not trying to have it turn into a year long project right now. ive decided to just rebuild the motor like you said.
send it out get it cleaned. new bearings, seals, rings etc and just run what i have.. it should be good enough for 325ish (im hoping) and just save up to build it fully later.

Sounds good. In all honestly I'd personally put some forged pistons in while you're doing it...at the rate of new rings, it's not much more to go with some CP's while you've got in apart :D

[howyfeltersnatch]

Originally Posted by Ace

Sounds good. In all honestly I'd personally put some forged pistons in while you're doing it...at the rate of new rings, it's not much more to go with some CP's while you've got in apart :D

im still contemplating that. its unreal how all the little **** really adds up. so i might hold off on the build and save for a set

[howyfeltersnatch]

finally did alittle bit of work

pulled the motor/head. the head looked like complete a$$ so im glad im sending it out to be cleaned and redone. same goes for the block.

















stuff i got in the mail recently
spec stg.3 clutch, tomei ornament plate, and full gasket kit from nissan

[howyfeltersnatch]

well head gaskets replaced, arp studs are in. turned out my head was pretty gnarly and i didnt have the funds for a new or used head. so i decided to put off the big top mount setup until i address the scarred cams and journals etc. i decided to just get an new isis oem replacement turbo for now till i save up to finish it. i drop in the new spec clutch, isis intake mani, wired in the new injector clips and will run 770cc sti side feeds and see what this setup gets me for the time being.

cleaning out the ic and pipes from the blown stock turbo


install






all thats left to address is stock fuel rail which i have to get a new one since i banged mine up pretty good just tryin to get the injectors out, driveshaft loop/mount, some wiring, the fmic and put the front end back on

[lepichichi]

cool project, good luck my friend.

[howyfeltersnatch]

Originally Posted by lepichichi

cool project, good luck my friend.

thanks

[Ace]

Whats going on with this pig! ;)

I may have a fuel rail for ya, I'll look around today.

[howyfeltersnatch]

Originally Posted by Ace

Whats going on with this pig! ;)

I may have a fuel rail for ya, I'll look around today.

i searched around and finally found one last week for $40 shipped. unbent and with all the screw heads not stripped. so i was happy about that. the past week ive been moving outta my shop in jersey and moved up into tylers shop up in stockertown, some **** went down with the scumbag i was sharing the garage with and tyler had half his garage open so i took advantage of the timing and moved out.

but there is still a few things i need if anyone has them
-s14 throttle cable pulley
-s14 throttle cable mounting bracket.

i guess you need those two things to make that aftermarket intake mani work.
other than that i need a 120 deg. coupler, fluids, recheck all the wiring and hoses and do a once over and should be good to go.

[anarchyperf]

Originally Posted by howyfeltersnatch

i searched around and finally found one last week for $40 shipped. unbent and with all the screw heads not stripped. so i was happy about that. the past week ive been moving outta my shop in jersey and moved up into tylers shop up in stockertown, some **** went down with the scumbag i was sharing the garage with and tyler had half his garage open so i took advantage of the timing and moved out.

but there is still a few things i need if anyone has them
-s14 throttle cable pulley
-s14 throttle cable mounting bracket.

i guess you need those two things to make that aftermarket intake mani work.
other than that i need a 120 deg. coupler, fluids, recheck all the wiring and hoses and do a once over and should be good to go.

I can get you the pulley for 25 shipped brand new. You should be able to use the s13 mounting bracket

[anarchyperf]

Car is now mine ... New build thread here