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Old 06-18-2016, 11:38 PM   #221
95naSTA
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Location: Port Fishington, Philly
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95 Bonnie, 98 i30, 07 Ducati Monster S2R 800

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I had a couple things left standing in the way of putting the glass back in but now I'm very close.

Today I fixed two small dents above the front doors and primed everything. I also put in an air drier in-line with my air hose setup so I can lay down a base coat on the roof. That base coat is really all that's left before the glass goes back in.



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Old 08-11-2017, 10:33 AM   #222
Big_Jim
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Bump for updates
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:05 PM   #223
95naSTA
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95 Bonnie, 98 i30, 07 Ducati Monster S2R 800

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Blows the dust off.. I've been slacking with updates here.

So after many failed attempts at shooting 2k primer and therefore not being able to shoot the roof.. I've decided the car has sat too long and the glass is going back in. My contingency plan for getting good paint coverage is removing the windshield reveal moldings prior to paint and just taping up the rear like I did the 1st repaint.

I went to the junkyard today in hopes of scoring a rear glass reveal molding in good shape. That also didn't go very well. It looks like I'll have to use a universal one.

The good news is I found a 92 SSEi and scored the following for $25
-Rear speaker deck with tweeters
-Rear speakers
-Rear seat belts (mine are rusted and these looked different)
-Trunk lid carpet
-Factory air pump
-Trunk air compressor latch molding
-Sacrificial door seal (to re-space out all my door moldings)
-Drivers door bottom window trim (mine doesn't want to stay seated)
-Front fender to body spacers

I also took the build sheet stashed in the trunk for S&G. It was a blue 2 tone interior car. So a little different.

I've always planned on eventually incorporating a pump into my rear air assist shocks. That's why I picked up the pump. I tested it out and it looks like it's still good:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SC3umKkYGGQ

The front and rear glass is back in as of January. I didn't realize the front top reveal molding needed to be installed with the windshield since the oem one came out so easy. It unfortunately covers up the front lip of the hood where it's only primer at the moment. The good news is I was able to take the front reveal molding out without too much of a struggle. I might leave it out till I get that edge painted or sealed. Depending on how it goes back in, I might install it with some sealer or just have it re-done.

I took the opportunity with the glass out to put the headliner back in so I wouldn't have to taco it through the rear door. When I went to install I realized that when I fiberglassed the problem areas, I made it too thick for the grab handle push locks to properly reach the sheet metal. That, and it developed a couple creases. It's sort-of in for now but I'll need to re-do it.

7 years or so ago when I parked the car and decided to go nuts in the engine bay, the water leaks from the front and rear glass seals turned my car into a fishbowl without me realizing. Water pooled on the floor and rear seat area for long enough to soak through the paint and cause it to bubble a bit in a few areas. I got around to stripping it down and painting it with rust proofer. Ended up with Zero Rust from Blue Lighting. Yesterday I did the driver's side up to the rear seat and today I did the rest. The good news is there's only one small area I didn't know about or remember that needs new sheet metal. It's about the size of a quarter on the driver's side rear seat pan. There's another spot in the driver's front rocker and the e-brake pass through that will require some new metal as well.







I started cutting some of the rot out to see how much work I have ahead of me. That small spot in the rear seat pan was a bit rougher underneath so I cut it out. I started to cut out the front corner and while not great, it's not as bad as I thought going aft.






I'lll have a bit more to cut out on the front but I ran out of daylight that day.. I made a couple templates to help make the sheet metal reconstruction a little easier.

In that 3rd pic the bottom mounting portion of my fender is broken and mashed up. I'm not sure how/when I screwed that up but I'll plastic weld it back together at some point.

OEM headliner fiberboard is ordered.. money down, time up.

Virgin headliner arrived.. Ted approved





Some more NOS action. It needs a little cleanup from sitting in a bag for 18-25 years but it's one less thing to fix. The driver's side is no longer available.



Starting to rough out some home made patch panels.. I really wanted to get that front rocker corner close to stock.








A little more..





More..

I did some final tweaks to the patch corner and started buttoning up the area for it to go on. I wanted to get the area forward of the sheet metal near the e-brake isolated from the rocker before I welded in the patch. That's what that small section is for. I'm keeping the rest open to the cabin until I paint and seal from the inside. My MIG wire ran out and I was cut a little short unfortunately..




There was some more rust behind good metal that was bothering me. I wanted to get that out before it was all welded up. It as a PITA to get to without cutting out more exterior metal so I ended up using a dremel.

Aside from drilling some plug weld holes and some welding surface prep, the dog leg I made is ready to be welded on.





A little closer..






Here's when I first started poking at it


Still needs a little more grinder love, a little more welding, painting and seam sealing from the back..

Aside from drilling a couple holes the outside part of the patch is done. At this point I still needed to do a second coat of paint inside the rail, tack in the interior patch panel and seam seal it up. I'm kind of glad I stopped the metal work where I did. I wanted to smooth it out more but if I did the thickness of the blue lightning paint (rust proof) would have hid it.




Inner patch panel with OEM style access hole.




I switched gears and plumbed in the ELC pump and replaced the SE/SLE truck latch trim with SSEi trim. The trim has the inflator valve and on/off buttons. I picked that stuff up at the yard in Nov as mentioned in this post.

It's super slow but it seems to be working as it should. I wasn't expecting much with a 25 year old pump and 1/8" line. The main driver for doing this is to make it easier to keep from scraping my exhaust parking in the garage.
https://youtu.be/YnuymDYh1LY

I still need to wire it in permanently. You can hear me using the power probe to test it. I'll run key-on +12v to it and ground both the pump and deflate solenoid through a rocker switch. Probably a heated seat switch. I'm pretty OCD so it'll probably take me a while till I'm happy with a permanent switch placement.

Got some more in. I ground down the area behind the pinched seam at the repair area and did 2 coats of Zero Rust. Forgot to take pics of that.. I saw some minor surface rust down the rocker so that got stripped down and 2 coats also.

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Old 08-17-2017, 10:05 PM   #224
95naSTA
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Location: Port Fishington, Philly
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95 Bonnie, 98 i30, 07 Ducati Monster S2R 800

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I did a second coat of paint inside the rocker, coated the patch panel and tacked it in. The only thing left is to seam seal it in.



And finally I repaired the bottom of the fender where it mounts to the body.





The interior patch is seam sealed up, the B pillars are covered in suede, and I repaired a crack in the driver's side drip molding.






A B C pillars.

At this point there are only a few things left preventing me from putting the interior back in the car. I still need to:
Weld in the patch in the rear seat pan
Put a second coat of Zero Rust over the whole floor
Pull the windshield again (probably could get away with not but might as well)
Paint the upper windshield frame. Right now there's only primer behind the front reveal molding
Install new OEM headliner board redone in suede.. Still need to redo it
Install windshield

Ok.. More than a few. But that's the order of operations at least.

Since I can't do the same thing twice without figuring out a way to do it better, I found the windshield plastic locating supports to help reinstallation. p/n 25654094. My original ones were broken and window welded in place.



Not too long ago I picked up a NOS passenger drip molding (p/n 25649720) but the driver's side (p/n 25649721) is no longer available. The driver's side is of course in worse shape. It's mainly the rubber strip that attaches to the rear portion of the molding. It shrinks and pulls away. I decided to use a section of the old passenger side rubber to stitch in and repair the driver's.

Here you can see the shriveled part cut off here:


Sacrificial part cut to length


Cut down to match the contour of the other side


Epoxied and supported from the back. I ended up adding more epoxy over all this.


Passenger and Driver's


I got the hole in the seat pan welded up. It's Zero Rust coated from underneath but I still have to do a second coat. The frame rail actually had decent access to the underneath.





While fixing the seat pan I saw more rust and I started to fix it.








I need to clean that up a bit more before paint. I also need to drill a hole for the lower rubber screw and the plan is to cavity wax through that hole. I'll seam seal it from the back in the wheel well too.

I went to finish the small patch on the driver's rear door seal but the few spots of wheel well rust were staring me in the face.. that lead to more metalwork.

For the door seal metal, I actually ended up welding it from the back via mirror to get it sealed up instead of seam sealing it. When grinding down the rust spots in the wheel well, there were two spots that needed more than a grinder to fix. The one section needed new metal worked on both sides of a pinched seam. The other section near the shock turned out to have good metal behind it so I just welded the superficial metal to the good metal underneath. Eventually I'll have to go back and re-do the wheel wells with the proper coating but for now it has 2 coats of Zero Rust.

I did re-coat the areas I repaired earlier. All that's left to close out these repairs is cavity waxing the door seal repair through the mounting hole drilled in the fresh metal and seal sealing from inside.











I also started putting a second coat of Zero Rust on the interior. The rear seat pan is done. The rest of the floor is next.

There's not many pics but I actually spent a fair amount of time on the car over the past few days.

The breakdown:
-Threw a 2nd coat of Zero Rust over the interior floor
-Wired in the rear SSEi speakers I got at the yard
-Installed SSEi rear deck
-Saw one driver's side floor access panel pushed through the rubber/tar sealing mat. No corrosion luckily. So I removed the metal, painted it, and installed Hush Mat over it to seal. (You can see the hole on the one pic below)
-Hush Mat'd the hole in the front driver's patch panel
-Laid the new carpet out inside for a couple days to let it settle
-Started to install the carpet. Driver's seat is in.

I still need to cut the carpet for the passenger seat and down the sides yet. The last time I installed a carpet with the nose higher than the rear and it ended up with slack at the end of the exhaust tunnel. I also ended up trimmed the one side a little to far. So, I did the install this time with the nose lower and worked the carpet from the rear seat forward. I'll leave the sides long until it settles.

I haven't had carpet in the car for like 6 years because of water leaks.. It might not seem like a big thing but it's a nice milestone for me.

The rest of the interior will go in easy enough. The A/B/C pillars will stay out till I redo the NOS headliner board and pull the windshield.





All the seats and the center console are back in. Pics of that will come.

I decided to tackle a small project I've been thinking of doing for a long time.. Belt wrap with the re-routed belt for my electric water pump has always been lackluster. High rpm shifts or low rpm dips always seem to make it slip a little. So, I decided to make another idler pulley in a similar location to a 00+ H body supercharger idler. I did a little cardboard mock up, drew the part in CAD, tested, tweaked and had S&W Race Cars waterjet the bracket for me. They're the same folks I used for waterjetting all the F40 associated mounts I designed. I also had them spin down some stand off spacers for it too. Once I got the parts back, I tapped the pulley spacer, did a little tweaking and found a belt that would work.








Home Depot run.



I finally got the new headliner done.. Not without issue either..

Since this is the 3rd time doing this, I wanted to try something new. The soda can weight method works for a lot of the contours but not all of them. So, I figured, why not spend 20 bucks on Plaster of Paris and make molds.




It took me so long to strip the OEM fabric that my wife actually offered to help me. Complete PITA.





I actually screwed up when I went to lay the suede down. There wasn't enough slack in between the front dome light bulge and the back of the sunroof. I cut open the sunroof hole to try and fix it but it ended up creasing the fabric beyond repair. I used an iron to separate the fabric but the board required some repair. The new suede came in over the past week so I went for round 2 with this attempt.

I decided I was going to glue down the fabric in sections, starting with the dome light first, just taking my time to avoid creases. It worked out pretty good.




Hopefully this is the last time for this.
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Old 08-18-2017, 08:26 AM   #225
Big_Jim
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Holy crap. I love your dedication, and this build. I've always had a weak spot for bonnies, my first car was an 88 bonneville base that I put ssei bits on from the junkyard.
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Old 08-20-2017, 01:02 PM   #226
95naSTA
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95 Bonnie, 98 i30, 07 Ducati Monster S2R 800

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Thanks man, I appreciate it. Those pre-92 Bonnies were bulletproof.
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