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Old 06-30-2009, 12:49 AM   #34
DC2.2GSR
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Originally Posted by supraghost View Post
good info thanks.

how about using body fillers for shaving? im only asking because the car im painting was previously shaved and now it has cracked so i want to redo it, but i need to make sure the joint is strong enough so it wont crack again.

i know us drywallers use vinyl drywall tape on joints i figured there was something similar for cars. or maybe a heavy duty body filler.
haha as weird as it sounds there is actually a use for drywall tape in body work. when a plastic bumper is damaged, you can repair it from behind with a plastic repair epoxy like Crest Code Blue and use drywall tape to reinforce the repair. that's about it though.

for shaving any kind of moldings or whatever, you're going to want to make sure that normal lightweight body filler (the rage extreme) doesn't get built up more than about 1/8". any more than that and you'll just crack it again. for shaving the right way i'd recommend properly welding in a filler panel and using light body filler as a thin leveling skimcoat only. that's your best bet any time you do body work... keep filler as thin as possible and do most of the repair (or in this case, the shaving) with metal. even when shaving plastic bumpers or whatever.. use Code Blue or similar epoxy and keep the filler thin. i've done it many times and it works great.

but, if you don't mind the heavy thick filler, another perfectly acceptable way to do it (done at shops all the time) is to use a fiberglass filler like USC's Duraglas, long 'n strong, or even all-metal. find 'em here. you can then do a rough block sanding (or even the infamous 'cheese grater') and put a lightweight filler skimcoat over top of it. that way, the heavy duty fiberglass reinforced filler is doing the major grip work to the panel and will be strong enough to resist cracking. the lighter, weaker, but smoother filler on top will be thin enough to not crack under stress.

this process is why quality body work costs good money. people compare Maaco work to real paint/body jobs and see only the price. what they don't see is that a Maaco style repair shop will just glob the lightweight stuff on there and leave it prone to cracking.

hope this helps
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Last edited by DC2.2GSR; 06-30-2009 at 12:52 AM.
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