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Old 07-11-2009, 03:37 PM   #1
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Honduh's B-Series Engine Removal Guide

Ok so when I first started, one of these would have been great. So I decided to make my own to help out fellow Honda owners in the future. Sorry the pictures are not the best, my garage lighting is lacking. This pretty much covers the entire motor pull minus a few vacuum lines I forgot to take pictures of.

Recommended Tools:

3/8" Ratchet
1/2" Ratchet
8-21mm 6 point sockets (deep and shallow)
3/8" & 1/2" Extentions
Large Breaker bar
8-22mm wrenches
A variety of flathead and phillips head screwdrivers
A quality punch set
Large Hammer
Hose clamp Pliers
Large Pry Bar
2 jack stands
32mm socket for axles
Side Cutters
Needle Nose Pliers
Engine Hoist & chain
Floor Jack
A bright light
A large drain pan
Large channel locks

Things that make life easy (but not necessary):

Medium sized air compressor
3/8" Air Hose - I cannot stress more that if your hose is too small your air tools WILL NOT work well at all.
1/2" impact gun
3/8" impact gun
3/8" air ratchet
3/8" electric impact gun
Swivel sockets
Impact Sockets & Extentions
Air powered cutting tool or sawzall with a good blade
Magnet on a flexible stick
Axle Poppers
Push pin tool
Extended hose clamp tool
Air blow nozzle
Oil Dry
CRC brake clean
PB Blaster
Latex Gloves

Now Lets Begin:

Jack the car up and set it on the jack stands, make sure its sitting solid before crawling underneath. Remove the front wheels as well.

I like to start underneath the car first before I start draining fluids and such incase I spill or something.

Remove the "bitch pin" from the transmission for the shift linkage. To do this you will need a decent size punch and hammer. Push the rubber boot back and remove the clip covering the pin. If your punch is undersized be sure to hit the pin along the edge so you don't flare it because you'll have a hell of a time getting it out then. Once its out set it in a safe spot where it won't get lost. Next remove the 12mm bolt holding the stabilizer bar to the trans.

Next take your remove the axle nuts. You need a 32mm 6 point socket for this. If you don't have a air gun this might be hard. If you have trouble try to have a friend sit in the car and stand on the brakes to keep the axles from moving. Repeat for the other side.

Next you are going to remove the nuts from the outter tie rod end and the lower ball joint. They are circled in red. First remove the cotter pins. Then remove the nuts. If you are having trouble with the ball joints spinning have a friend take a large pair of channel locks and clamp down on the top of the tie rod and knuckle, this usually works for me.

Now if you are having trouble seperating the ball joins here is a tip. Get a large hammer and hit the knuckle. DO NOT hot the threads on the ball joints. You can see in the picture where to hit. Do the same for the lower ball joint as well. This ALWAYS works for me. Don't be afraid to hit it, it won't break.

Now lets seperate the axles. Push them out of the hubs first. Then take a large prybar, or if you have them your axle forks, and pop them out of the trans. I usually remove the axles from the intermediate shaft first.

Then the passenger side from the trans.

Now unbolt the exhaust from the header. You will need a 12mm and 14mm wrench/socket for this. Sometimes these are rusted so bad that you'll just have to cut them.

Now we are pretty much done being underneath the car for the most part so its time to drain fluids.

To drain the trans you will need to find the drain plug which I have circled in red. It takes a 3/8" ratchet alone to remove the plug.

Now drain the engine oil (I don't think I need to show you a picture of the oil pan drain plug)

And now drain the radiator. On the passenger side of the radiator you will find a petcock, I circled it in red. Open it up and allow to drain, make sure you remove the fill cap to allow proper flow.

Next remove your intake.

This car happened to have CAI so you'll have to remove the air filter before removing the intake tube.

Now remove the battery and battery tray.

Next remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the radiator fan. They are circled in red. Then push the hoses to the side and lift the fan straight up. Don't forget to disconnect the plugs for the fan.

Remove the clutch cable. Loose the nylon bolt all the way. Then push the cable out down and out of the clutch level and hang it over the side of the fender to keep it out of the way. Why you are there you should remove the ground that is right next to it.

By this point your radiator is almost empty. Here is a tip that I do to get as much of the coolant out of the system as possible. Take a air nozzle and put it on the nipple for the coolant overflow. Now place your hand over the fill and blow air into the system, it will blow out the remaining coolant.

Now its time to move the radiator hoses from the rad. It helps to have a extended hose clamp tool for the bottom hose. Then remove the 2 10mm bolts on the radiator brackets and lift the radiator out of the car.

Next remove the throttle cable end from the butterfly and at the adjustment point and lay it over the fender out of the way.

Remove any vacuum lines you see that will stop the engine from coming out.

Remove the speedo cable from the speed sensor. Pull the boot up and remove the horse shoe clip, don't loose the clip. Then pull the cable out of the trans.

Remove the power steering lines from the speedo sensor, these are for the speed sensitive power steering that only the 90-93 integra's had.

Remove the brake booster line.

Open up the fuse box and remove these two wires. Put the screw back into the fuse box so you don't loose them.

Remove these two plugs on the passenger side strut tower. The harness is also held down with a 10mm bolt.

Remove this coolant hose from the passenger side of the head.

Remove this coolant line from behind the thermostat housing.

Disconnect these 3 plugs up by the windshield on the driver side.

Loosen the alternator adjustment bolt and push it all the way against the block. This will help with clearance when the motor is coming out.

Remove the fuel return line located by the FPR.

Remove the banjo nut holding the fuel feed line. You will need a 22mm open end wrench for this.

Remove the crank pulley, don't loose the keyway. I do this to help with clearance when pulling the motor. If you don't have a powerful air gun this might be pretty hard to do.

Now we are close to getting this bitch out of the engine bay. There is a empty bolt hole on the back of the head above the alternator, I use this as a mounting point for the chain.

Now find a good spot near the front of the trans for the other end of the chain. I usually use a trans bolt for this but the chain links where too small to fit a bolt through so I used a nut and bolt through the bracket on front of the trans.

Remove the front motor mount. Its kind of a bitch to get the bottom bolt out, but its well worth it for the movement it gives you when pulling the motor out.

Now get some tension on the chain.

Remove the bolt from the trans mount.

Remove the bolt from the rear engine mount. This picture sucks but its there. Its kind of a bitch to get to. I use a 6 inch extension and a air ratchet to remove this bolt.

Next remove the bolt from the driver side motor mount. Now the engine should feel loose.

Tilt the motor so the trans is tilting down. I hope you drained the trans fluid or you are going to have a mess.

Now remove the plate from the trans for the motor mount. This REALLY REALLY helps with movement. There are 2 bolts on top and 1 bolt on the bottom.

Now that you have plenty of movement tilt the motor some more.

Now lift the motor from the bay slowly. Stop occasionally to make sure you did not miss anything that might rip or break with the engine coming out.

Enjoy the fruits of your labor and take a picture of your dumb ass standing in the engine bay.

Well that's about it. I'm pretty sure that covered everything. If you have any questions, comments, or other tips please feel free to post them in here and I'll ad them to the first post!
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