D15B sohc questions.

[FocusDude]

Precursor : I dont do Honda.

So my buddy bought a JDM D15B and installed it in his 91 Civic. Everything seems on par. He has crazy high oil pressure. After searching around his manifold cover is completely different then every other manifold from a d15b, hopefully I'll have more pics tomorrow. So on with the stupid questions.

He has no Vtec, its FI and not carbed. He was supplied a block off plate of some sorts to null the vtec. After doing some searching I feel the lack of a vtec is a problem. Am I wrong or how could one go about sourcing and installing the vtec.

Also could anyone throw out suggestions on adding multi port fuel injection, he believes he has most of what is need minus the fuel line and distributor maybe. Is it worth working towards adding it.

Again I'm a moron when it comes to cars, Honda's especially. So please dumb it down-

[highmilehatch]

Tough to say without seeing the actual car. Could be a lot of things going on. Vtec block off plate? How do you know the oil pressure is high? Is there a gauge? Also, OBD1 JDM D15B is a PO8 block with a Z6 head, maybe the other D15's your used to seeing are US spec with no Vtec. Is the wiring right? Or does it look like some hacked up high school project?

[Vr-4-Life]

First of all...Where did you buy this motor?

Second of all.. Vtec block of plate? If you dont want to use Vtec then dont connect the wires to it.. you dont need to go blocking off oil passages.

The reason I'm asking is because I was sold a d15b with a bad head from JDM Engine Depot in NJ. I wonder if they threw a new head on it and sold it to you.

[FocusDude]

We got talking about this late last night. I have yet to look under the hood and was hoping he would be able to get over here today but eh.

He bought the motor out of a place in Cincinnati, for the name I would need to ask him to check the receipt. They supplied the plate saying it was needed to null the vtec, sounds screwy to me but I've never read up on this before last night. He had it installed by a friend who owns a shop with his father who had it before him. It's no fly by night shop, but at the same time they are not in the business of swapping JDM motors.

I'm pretty sure he has a oil pressure gauge installed. With appcoalyptic amounts of snow coming I probably won't have any pics this weekend.

I appreciate both of ya taking some time here, and I'm sorry this is so damn vague.

[Vr-4-Life]

Where in lower bucks are you and where is the car? I know the d15b pretty well and i have a blown one in my garage with all of the parts on it. I'd be happy to help you out if need be. Im in levittown

[FocusDude]

Pop the hood :
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/DudesJpegs/Honda/P2050222.jpg

The plate in question is at the tip of the finger :
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/DudesJpegs/Honda/P2050225.jpg

Close-up :
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/DudesJpegs/Honda/P2050226.jpg

[FocusDude]

Where in lower bucks are you and where is the car? I know the d15b pretty well and i have a blown one in my garage with all of the parts on it. I'd be happy to help you out if need be. Im in levittown

Were in L-trash too!

[Vr-4-Life]

Thats not a Vtec motor....

Only the JDM d15b had the vtec head.. The USDM d15b1-whatever were sohc non vtec's...

its possible that that motor is a frankenstien made up of different parts... that is def a non vtec valve cover...

your welcome to bring the car by.. if it moves.

[Foolinaround]

Oil line blockoff plate on the block? no wonder your oil pressure is so high. its pumping oil for vtec and it has no where to go

[Vr-4-Life]

I dont know what kind of angle that picture was taken at, but somethings not right. The vtec solenoid is mounted verticle next to the valve cover... in the picture it looks to be on the side of the block..

Also it shouldn't matter with the block off plate being there... the vtec solenoid is essentially a block off plate for oil, then once vtec engages, the ecu opens it up to allow oil to flow through and engage vtec..

I'd really like to see what exactly they sold you... If you got ripped off with a d15b block and a USDM head.. I'd flip out and ask for money back.. if worst comes to worst.. I have a complete d15b head i could sell you...

its actually good that I have one to compare with...

[FocusDude]

We'll have to see if we can all get together on on the weekend. The car runs pretty good as is. He still has the stock d15,b15 whatever that came out of it. I think if worse comes to worse he will be sticking that back in.

Thanks again.

[scottsworld77]

i dont know what the heck is going on there i never seen that but that is not a vtec motor and why would you buy a vtec motor if you werent going to use it i hava complete d16a6 swap for sale and i can make your car multi point if you want

[Mr.Crx]

that is not a vtec motor t

Right on. The vtec motor has a different valve cover putting the oil fill on the other side, diagonally across from the one pictured.

[trista]

DX,STD (DPFI) -> Si,HX (MPFI) wiring
PARTS/TOOLS NEEDEDPrices are in canadian currency and may vary depending on where you go)
- Si ECU(PM6 for manual transmission)
- Si Distributor
- MPFI intake manifold - including throttle body, fuel rail, injectors
- Resistor Box(88-91 Si)
- Si wiring harness(needed for injector plugs, injector resistor box plug, and distributor plug)
- Intake manifold gasket- (not needed but recommended)
- Manifold Support Bracket
- Si fuel line from filter to fuel rail
- some extra wire
- electrical tape or heat shrink(better)
- wire stripper/cutter
- soldering gun and solder(not needed but highly recommended)

It is much easier to use your existing DPFI harness and just add the extra 4 wires that will be needed. The Si harness will be much harder to use.

There are two major wiring changes that you'll have to do going from a DPFI system to an MPFI and a couple other minor things that need to be done too. The first one is the crank angle sensor wiring which is the easy part. The second one is the fuel injector wiring which is slightly more complicated. Also, you'll have to switch the two wires on the TPS because the TPS on the new intake works in the opposite direction. If you dont switch them, the ECU will think that the engine is at Wide open throttle when its actually at idle. I highly recommend soldering and heat shrinking any electrical connections you will be making because it is very possible for connectors to come loose from all the vibration and solder will hold up better in the long run. Also, the TPS and EACV plugs are too short and they'll have to be extended. You're also going to have to switch the manifold support bracket, since the bolt parrern from the support to manifold is different from DX to SI, although they still bolt up on the block the same.

TO HOOK UP THE MULTI-POINT CRANK ANGLE SENSOR:
- First, you'll have to go to the passengers foot well to where the ecu is located.
- Pin B10 and B12 should both be empty.
- You'll have to cut and move the wire that goes to pin C1(orange) over to pin B10, and move the wire from pin C2(white) over to pin B12. Don't get these two mixed up or else the ignition timing will be severly retarded. Leave enough wire at the ECU side of pin C1 and C2 for next step.
- Now run wires from pins C1 and C2 into the engine compartment and label them.
- There will be a connector on the new Si distributor with two unused pins. One of the wires will be blue/green stripe, and the other will be blue/yellow stripe.
- The wire that is blue/green stripe will go to the wire from pin C1 on the ECU and the other wire that is blue/yellow stripe will go to the wire from pin C2

SWITCHING THE WIRES AT THE TPS:
This pretty much explains itself, just switch the two outside wires(green/white and yellow/white) around at the TPS and then you're done this step. I used the TPS connector off the Si harness, just so that I could just match up all the wires, since the wires are already reversed on it.

INJECTOR WIRING
(In the car):
First of all, while you're still in the passengers footwell, cut wires A3(yellow) and A7(red), although leave some wire on the ECU side for later use. Now run wires from pins A3 and A7 into the engine compartment and label them.

(Engine Compartment):
- Mount the injector resistor box up on the drivers side shock tower.
- Connect the yellow/black wires from the two DPFI injector harnesses and run it to the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor box.
- Connect the yellow wire from the DX injector to the #1 injector (brown wire).
- Connect the red wire from the DX injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire).
- Connect the wire you labelled A3 to the #2 injector (red wire).
- Connect the wire labelled A7 to the #4 injector (yellow wire).
- Then, connect the 4 red/black wires coming from injector resistor box to each of the four injectors.



I think it's well worth it.. Then OBD1!

[FocusDude]

Allow me to bump this from the depths.. Technically it's a CX, built in Canada.


We ran this today at the autoX in Warminster and it surprised the S outta me. Whatever is missing it seems not to be making much of a difference. It's now sitting out front awaiting some necessities, and were working on collecting everything for the MPFI.

[Mr.Crx]

DX,STD (DPFI) -> Si,HX (MPFI) wiring
PARTS/TOOLS NEEDEDPrices are in canadian currency and may vary depending on where you go)
- Si ECU(PM6 for manual transmission)
- Si Distributor
- MPFI intake manifold - including throttle body, fuel rail, injectors
- Resistor Box(88-91 Si)
- Si wiring harness(needed for injector plugs, injector resistor box plug, and distributor plug)
- Intake manifold gasket- (not needed but recommended)
- Manifold Support Bracket
- Si fuel line from filter to fuel rail
- some extra wire
- electrical tape or heat shrink(better)
- wire stripper/cutter
- soldering gun and solder(not needed but highly recommended)

It is much easier to use your existing DPFI harness and just add the extra 4 wires that will be needed. The Si harness will be much harder to use.

There are two major wiring changes that you'll have to do going from a DPFI system to an MPFI and a couple other minor things that need to be done too. The first one is the crank angle sensor wiring which is the easy part. The second one is the fuel injector wiring which is slightly more complicated. Also, you'll have to switch the two wires on the TPS because the TPS on the new intake works in the opposite direction. If you dont switch them, the ECU will think that the engine is at Wide open throttle when its actually at idle. I highly recommend soldering and heat shrinking any electrical connections you will be making because it is very possible for connectors to come loose from all the vibration and solder will hold up better in the long run. Also, the TPS and EACV plugs are too short and they'll have to be extended. You're also going to have to switch the manifold support bracket, since the bolt parrern from the support to manifold is different from DX to SI, although they still bolt up on the block the same.

TO HOOK UP THE MULTI-POINT CRANK ANGLE SENSOR:
- First, you'll have to go to the passengers foot well to where the ecu is located.
- Pin B10 and B12 should both be empty.
- You'll have to cut and move the wire that goes to pin C1(orange) over to pin B10, and move the wire from pin C2(white) over to pin B12. Don't get these two mixed up or else the ignition timing will be severly retarded. Leave enough wire at the ECU side of pin C1 and C2 for next step.
- Now run wires from pins C1 and C2 into the engine compartment and label them.
- There will be a connector on the new Si distributor with two unused pins. One of the wires will be blue/green stripe, and the other will be blue/yellow stripe.
- The wire that is blue/green stripe will go to the wire from pin C1 on the ECU and the other wire that is blue/yellow stripe will go to the wire from pin C2

SWITCHING THE WIRES AT THE TPS:
This pretty much explains itself, just switch the two outside wires(green/white and yellow/white) around at the TPS and then you're done this step. I used the TPS connector off the Si harness, just so that I could just match up all the wires, since the wires are already reversed on it.

INJECTOR WIRING
(In the car):
First of all, while you're still in the passengers footwell, cut wires A3(yellow) and A7(red), although leave some wire on the ECU side for later use. Now run wires from pins A3 and A7 into the engine compartment and label them.

(Engine Compartment):
- Mount the injector resistor box up on the drivers side shock tower.
- Connect the yellow/black wires from the two DPFI injector harnesses and run it to the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor box.
- Connect the yellow wire from the DX injector to the #1 injector (brown wire).
- Connect the red wire from the DX injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire).
- Connect the wire you labelled A3 to the #2 injector (red wire).
- Connect the wire labelled A7 to the #4 injector (yellow wire).
- Then, connect the 4 red/black wires coming from injector resistor box to each of the four injectors.

I think it's well worth it.. Then OBD1!



Wow, you can copy and paste someone else's work...
:roll:

If you go OBD1, you can't use the Si dist. or stock PM6 Ecu.

[trista]

^ why does it matter? Lol it's the write up I used so I figured it would help him. Regardless if I wrote it up or ot it would be the same thing. So chillaxxx

[Mr.Crx]

^ why does it matter? Lol it's the write up I used so I figured it would help him. Regardless if I wrote it up or ot it would be the same thing. So chillaxxx


Posting the link would have sufficed...
If you didn't write it up, I just believe in giving credit where credit is due.

[trista]

I completely agree. I did my mpfi swap 2 years ago. That was the info that was saved on
My computer.
You'll be ok Mr. CRX

[FocusDude]

Anywhom enough drama for this thread.

That blockoff plate is for the fuel pump or something if the motor was carbed. We'll be working on adding the MPFI shortly as we have most the parts, but I'm sketchy with wiring. I found another source from civic4g, we'll see how it rolls. Now I just need something to tow it with-

[Mr.Crx]

You'll be ok Mr. CRX

:roll:

[speedooo]

I haven't read up recently on this but I remember reading that the plate in question is used when converting a motor from carbs to mpfi and has nothing to do w/ vtec...I believe your friend has been ripped off and should pursue a refund from the shop. I would NEVER trust a shop that told me to put a vtec block off plate there, that's just dumb and ghetto.

[speedooo]

Clarification...

There was a JDM D15B non-VTEC.

Here is a good post on all the D15B engines.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showpost.p...73&postcount=7


The non-VTEC ones encountered are usually the dual carb version. They are converted to fuel injection when installed in US cars, usually just by re-using the existing fuel injection system in the car the engine is swapped into.


To see if yours is the originally dual carb'd one, look on the back of the engine near where a VTEC solenoid would be on a VTEC head... the dual carb'd one will have a port here, most likely covered with a block off plate. This is where there used to be a mechanical fuel pump for the other carburetor. I read somewhere that there is an extra lobe on the camshaft which is what drove the mechanical fuel pump.

You can also look at the plugs on the distributor to differentiate between OBD0 and OBD2, assuming the distributor is the engine's original distributor.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i303/trustdestruction/Forum%20Posted%20Random%20Images/P2050226.jpg




The D15B is a JDM engine that came in several different variations in several different cars from 1988 to 2005 – This is a partial list (there are more) of the various D15B configurations and the cars they came from in Japan:

OBD0 - Single Carb – Compression Ratio 9.2:1 – 91ps – Found In:
88-91 Civic 4 door Sedan – Models 35M and 35U
88-91 Civic 3 door Hatch – Model 25R

OBD0 – Dual Carb – Compression Ratio 9.2:1 – 100ps – Found In:
88-91 Civic 4 door Sedan – Model 35X
88-91 Civic 5 door Shuttle – Model 55X
88-91 Civic 3 door Hatch – Model 25X (105ps in 5 speed – 100ps in automatic)
88-91 CRX – Model 1.5X (105ps in 5 speed – 100 ps in automatic)

OBD1 – Dual Carb – Compression Ratio 9.2:1 – 100ps – Found In:
92-95 Civic and Civic Ferio – Model MX

OBD1 – VTEC – Compression Ratio 9.3:1 – 130ps – Found In:
92-95 Civic and Civic Ferio – Model VTi
93-95 CRX Del Sol – Model VXi

OBD1 – VTEC-E – Compression Ratio 9.3:1 – 94ps – Found In:
92-95 Civic and Civic Ferio – Model ETi

OBD2 – Non-VTEC – Compression Ratio 9.4:1 – 105ps – Found In:
96-2000 Civic 4 door Sedan – Model Ri
96-2000 Civic Ferio Sedan – Model Mi
97-2000 Integra SJ (Joyful Sedan) – Models LXi and EXi

OBD2 – VTEC – Compression Ratio 9.3:1 – 130ps – Found In:
96-97 CRX Del Sol – Model VXi

OBD2 – VTEC (3 Stage) – Compression Ratio 9.6:1 – 130ps – Found In:
96-2000 Civic 4 door Sedan – Model VTi
96-2000 Civic Ferio Sedan – Model Vi
97-2000 Integra SJ (Joyful Sedan) – Model VXi

OBD2 – Non-VTEC – Compression Ratio 9.4:1 – 105ps – Found In:
2001-2005 Civic Type B
2001-2005 Civic Ferio Type C and Type C4 (4wd)

OBD2 – VTEC – Compression Ratio 9.9:1 – 115ps – Found In:
2001-2005 Civic Type G and Type G4 (4wd)

OBD2 – VTEC Lean Burn – Compression Ratio – 10.2:1 – 105ps – Found In:
2001-2005 Civic Type Ie

[FocusDude]

I believe your friend has been ripped off and should pursue a refund from the shop. I would NEVER trust a shop that told me to put a vtec block off plate there, that's just dumb and ghetto.

Explain how he was ripped off? Everything makes sense now, it was either my buddy or the seller that was confused. Either way the motor is running great-

[speedooo]

Maybe it's just me, but if I assumed ownership of something that wasn't it was supposed to be, I'd be upset. But if you're happy for it to just make sense,more power to you. Glad I could help.

[FocusDude]

I'm having a hard time comprehending that.
Read the thread again... The motor is what it was sold as.

[91crxsikenny]

If it is. Jam d15b it don't look like it has v tec but it does and you can use a block off plate and it wont hurt anything . I am in the process of putting multiport injection on my car my best advice is to modify the stock harness not try to make another work its a headache.