Help! Clutch wont work

[StreetEG]

Motor- RB25det

Trans- rb20det

Going from Original Clutch, PP and Flywheel to ACT HD pp and 6 puck clutch.



OK so after 2 days, 2 slaves, 2 masters, a new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel- my clutch does not work. The last thing I have to do is put in my spare trans but I wanted to post up before I did so. Heres the deal.



This weekend I replaced my clutch, due to the fact that my car because increasingly harder to get in gear when the clutch was depressed. I removed the slave cylinder and replaced it thinking that was probably the culprit, fully bleeding the system and it was not. Now the clutch was pretty much non existant. When the car was on and in neutral, depressing the clutch pedal did not allow the car to go into gear AT ALL. not even reverse.



So I figured ok---- its all original stuff-- its probably screwed up so lets order a new clutch. I put everything in-- and still the same problem. We even adjusted the rod on the clutch pedal for more throw.



Here are the kickers-



New Clutch, PP Flywheel

New Master Cylinder

New Slave Culinder



When you push the clutch, the slave pushed the fork the appropriate distance. The fork/Throwout bearing definately work they were tested before gpogm pm the car.



Now--- Even though we 100% checked everything I thought MAYBE we put the clutch disk on backwards.... Doubtful-- but at this point my only hope.. So I drop the trans again last night. (The 2nd time only took an hour compared to the 4 it took originally... +1 for experience) only to find out that its not the case--- so i back to square 1


So where I sit now-- the original trans is on the ground I have a spare trans. The clutch and PP are off. and I am waiting for someone with a tad more experience to mention something I may have missed so that I dont go through all the effort of getting the car back together to have the same issue again...



Can anyone help!!?????



Thanks in advance-



Eric

[assault187]

No leaks?
All trans bolts are accounted for and tight?
does this car have a clutch accumulator?
Did you inspect the clutch fork for wear or cracking?
Pivot ball look like its in decent shape?
It seems like everything else was covered but did you check the clutch pedal assembly inside the car? Did you adjust the clutch pedal itself? If not, try and adjust the clutch master cylinders' rod and thread it out almost completely from the clutch pedal and see what that gets you. If that doesnt work, inspect the clutch pedal assembly itself for worn bushings, cracks, or distortion. They may not be obvious but I have seen this happen on a few cars (Not just 1G dsms) where the problem is solved by simply replacing the assembly.

[StreetEG]

No leaks
All bolts accounted for.
Nothing wrong with the clutch fork
I dont know what a clutch accumulator is--- maybe thats something
Pivot ball is in good shape---
Clutch pedal was adjusted for extra throw and still nothing.

As far as the assembly goes I doubt thats the issue--- because when you press the clutch the slave cylinder presses on the fork and there is resistance on the pedal----which is what makes it so weird. Maybe a new nismo pivot ball----BUt I cant see how that would be an issue if it checks out fine.

[StreetEG]

Here is a quick picture of the bearings that I am using. The one that is on the right came from the trans and was re used. The one on the left came from the spare trans---

AS you can see the height looks to be the same on both---- which is why they didnt work--- hwoever the one on the right looks as if the bearing was pressed too far down--- and it no longer has the reach--- however if you press the clutch in--- it should at least want to go in gear a little bit in my opinion...

Anyway check them out

http://www.makingapril.com/greg/Eric/bearing.JPG
http://www.makingapril.com/greg/Eric/bearing1.JPG

[Nick Merrone]

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=288581

?

[StreetEG]

ha i dont know what that has to do with anything but thanks for the thread?

[Nick Merrone]

Idk, something about rb20 trans. lol

[Rockstar]

The tob on the left looks to be like a s13 tob and the right a s14 tob in reference to ka24de transmissions. Very similiar if not possibly the same.

I should have a spare 13/14 working tob,gotta check..shoot a pm if u want. I'm in central nj.

[assault187]

No leaks
All bolts accounted for.
Nothing wrong with the clutch fork
I dont know what a clutch accumulator is--- maybe thats something
Pivot ball is in good shape---
Clutch pedal was adjusted for extra throw and still nothing.

As far as the assembly goes I doubt thats the issue--- because when you press the clutch the slave cylinder presses on the fork and there is resistance on the pedal----which is what makes it so weird. Maybe a new nismo pivot ball----BUt I cant see how that would be an issue if it checks out fine.

Did you search over the PP with a fine toothed comb for any cracks on the fingers? If the accumulator isnt there then its not somthing to worry about. Keep the clutch assembly in mind though if all else fails, give it a try....

[StreetEG]

Ok so i figured I would post a conclusion for all those who were following. By trial and error this has been my conclusion--- however given the circumstance of how the installation went-- I didnt have the opportunity to take exact measurements. The clutch engages wonderfully now--- better then the stocker ever did---and it even feels (at first drive) faster--- probably due to the slipping clutch i removed.

With the original clutch/flywheel setup the RB20 trans and throwout collar were at their max potential on my car... meaning when i depressed the clutch it BARELY disengaged the clutch. So in my opinion (no measurements to back it up) with a resurfaced flywheel, and the ACT PP and 6 puck disk, the overall combination was thinner then OEM setup--- therefore not allowing the throwout bearing enough travel to disengage the clutch.

Solution:

We pulled apart the RB20 trans and replaced the throwout collar with a ka/sr unit which is 3/8" longer then the original bearing/collar I had in there. Now with everything back together, when the pedal was depressed the clutch would disengage, however i still felt a slight bit of resistance when turning the driveshaft.... so with everything adjusted for max throw there was only one thing getting in the way--- and it was teh clutch pedal block plate that stopped the pedal from going all the way to the floor. Removed with the rotozip--- I now have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch.