questions about turbo (gsr)

[215ek]

so my 98 gsr has 90k on it an alot of people are telling me i should boost it instead of building it more.

it pretty much stock, but if i set it to 7 or 8 psi im told id be fine

my question is, what exactly would i need, and how hard is install and about what would a tune run me. not looking to go nuts but just something to give a little more power..

[2000MRDC2]

only things u need that wouldnt really come with a turbo kit are

Fuel pump (walbro 255 would be fine. I think alex has one. )
Injectors
Gauges
Oil Pan tapped for return line, u can always get it done to your stock one too.
Prob a Custom downpipe unless the kit comes with one.

Itd be better off for u to buy a kit than to try and piece one together. Jeff Evans charges I think around 600 for a tune, your best bet In my opinion would be to convert to OBD1 and do neptune. which u would need an OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness and an OBD1 ecu (which Im sure one of our friends or Mike has lying around)

Install isnt too bad just a bunch of lines and pipes basically (i know its not that simple guys just trying to give him an idea), if you think its out of yours and alex's abilities, have mike do it. Me and Jer Did the kit on Tullys TC and It was Easy.

[redtoprps13]

piecing one together > off the shelf

[215ek]

renn tell paroll to eat a bag, come home, and well boost this bear haha

[2000MRDC2]

renn tell paroll to eat a bag, come home, and well boost this bear haha

haha Ill be home in a year, I hope that bear is boosted when I get back.

[dturbocivic]

its not the boost number that willl kill the engine, but how much power it makes, as well as the agrressiveness of the tune up. a few years back i ran a bone stock ls/vtec for damn near 6 months (stock bottom end/stock b16 head) it made 325, and i reved it to 8500 daily.

[MTuning]

whatever route, make sure you do the pcv-delete with a block plug+catch can vented on the block fitting. if you don't have one yet, an IM/tb opened up alot of power for me and quicker spool time.

[TurboGSR96]

Since you dont know much about this....

Buying a complete kit > piecing one together

[cny1320.com]

Since you dont know much about this....

Buying a complete kit > piecing one together

x2 because of lack of knowledge.

[K20EF9]

Check Honda-Tech

AFI Street Kits are $2699. You can also choose to upgrade and get your injectors, fuel pump, hondata s3000 etc...

[Got Insulin?]

Check Honda-Tech

AFI Street Kits are $2699. You can also choose to upgrade and get your injectors, fuel pump, hondata s3000 etc...

LOL @ paying 3K for a kit for a $3K car (no offense meant)

That's what we're here for fellas: help. Researching, and subsequently learning will only progress the scene.
215EK, you're going to need:
-a manifold
-a turbo
-an external waste gate if your turbo isn't internally gated
-a boost controller
-oil feed and drain lines
-a WB o2 sensor, if you ever plan on going bigger than what you have
-boost, and oil pressure guages
-some sort of logger/ tuning device
-BOV
-IC and piping

and last but not least, some guidence and common sense. Good luck

[The Captain]

Since you dont know much about this....

Buying a complete kit > piecing one together

x2 because of lack of knowledge.

See, that's exactly why you DONT buy a kit.

Go out, start reading, and truely know your stuff. Then you can build your own setup that properly fits your goals and save some $$ at the same time.

[zex97]

If you want something cheap and simple you could always go with an egay kit....just a thought.

[K20EF9]

LOL @ paying 3K for a kit for a $3K car (no offense meant)

That's what we're here for fellas: help. Researching, and subsequently learning will only progress the scene.
215EK, you're going to need:
-a manifold
-a turbo
-an external waste gate if your turbo isn't internally gated
-a boost controller
-oil feed and drain lines
-a WB o2 sensor, if you ever plan on going bigger than what you have
-boost, and oil pressure guages
-some sort of logger/ tuning device
-BOV
-IC and piping

and last but not least, some guidence and common sense. Good luck

LOL god forbid somebody buy quality parts instead of piecing together junk.

[redtoprps13]

its not the boost number that willl kill the engine, but how much power it makes, as well as the agrressiveness of the tune up. a few years back i ran a bone stock ls/vtec for damn near 6 months (stock bottom end/stock b16 head) it made 325, and i reved it to 8500 daily.

yes and no. when you factor in different turbo trims, different turbos produce different amounts of heat at certain psi. larger turbos are more thermally efficient than smaller ones at the sacrifice of response. a t25g at 15 psi vs a gt2871r at 15 psi are completely different things. a turbo reaching it's efficiency range can cause intake temps to sky rocket
LOL god forbid somebody buy quality parts instead of piecing together junk.

actually following the blind masses is and buying a turbo kit doesn't make it a quality product. greddy kits for civic come wiht fmu's to govern fuel. you call that quality. or they come with a generic t3/t4 turbo that's too big or unresponsive for the motors they're marketing towards. piecing together doesn't mean you buy all your parts from the junkyard. if you got a brand new gt28r for your b18b and a nice manifold an then got a used evo intercooler. i wouldn't call that a lack of quality in parts. diy kits tend to be better since they suit your needs. not a generic kit marketed to the masses boasting high peak hp and no response.

[SovXietday]

LOL @ paying 3K for a kit for a $3K car (no offense meant)

That's what we're here for fellas: help. Researching, and subsequently learning will only progress the scene.
215EK, you're going to need:
-a manifold
-a turbo
-an external waste gate if your turbo isn't internally gated
-a boost controller
-oil feed and drain lines
-a WB o2 sensor, if you ever plan on going bigger than what you have
-boost, and oil pressure guages
-some sort of logger/ tuning device
-BOV
-IC and piping

and last but not least, some guidence and common sense. Good luck

Forgot some things...

- Walbro 255lhp
- downpipe/exhaust
- Injectors - 450cc or bigger is best
- OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, engine management and a tune for said management
- a clutch

[K20EF9]

yes and no. when you factor in different turbo trims, different turbos produce different amounts of heat at certain psi. larger turbos are more thermally efficient than smaller ones at the sacrifice of response. a t25g at 15 psi vs a gt2871r at 15 psi are completely different things. a turbo reaching it's efficiency range can cause intake temps to sky rocket


actually following the blind masses is and buying a turbo kit doesn't make it a quality product. greddy kits for civic come wiht fmu's to govern fuel. you call that quality. or they come with a generic t3/t4 turbo that's too big or unresponsive for the motors they're marketing towards. piecing together doesn't mean you buy all your parts from the junkyard. if you got a brand new gt28r for your b18b and a nice manifold an then got a used evo intercooler. i wouldn't call that a lack of quality in parts. diy kits tend to be better since they suit your needs. not a generic kit marketed to the masses boasting high peak hp and no response.

Let me know where I said anything about Greddy. I told him to go over to Honda Tech and order the AFI street kit, I know plenty of people running them with no issues, they are very similar to full race kits at about $1000 cheaper. They come standard with a garrett t3/t4 .57 trim I don't think thats too big for a gsr considering my friends single cam spools it fine.

The street kit is $2699 you just told him to order a $1000 turbo and "nice" manifold. A good used ramhorn will run you about $400, new at least $600.

I'd rather have absolutely everything I need for $2700 then a turbo and manifold for $1600.

[redtoprps13]

Let me know where I said anything about Greddy. I told him to go over to Honda Tech and order the AFI street kit, I know plenty of people running them with no issues, they are very similar to full race kits at about $1000 cheaper. They come standard with a garrett t3/t4 .57 trim I don't think thats too big for a gsr considering my friends single cam spools it fine.

The street kit is $2699 you just told him to order a $1000 turbo and "nice" manifold. A good used ramhorn will run you about $400, new at least $600.

I'd rather have absolutely everything I need for $2700 then a turbo and manifold for $1600.
the greddy kit was an example and a t3/t4 57 trim integra spools at what rpm?

why are you comparing a 2700 dollar turbo kit with an fmu to a 1600 dollar manifold and turbo setup? and obviously you've never ridden in a 57 trim b-series vtec. sure they make nice "peak" power but the spool time is boring. they're fast on the highway and nothing else unless it's in a 2200 lbs hatch. even then i can take them through 3rd gear with my little t25g. you can find gt28r's for 600 bucks and spend 300 on a nice manifold. after that you need an intercooler kit which is no more than 400 bucks if you know how to shop, injectors, fuel pump and some form of "proper" ecu tuning, and a down pipe. you can get walbro's for under a 100 bucks and some 550cc injectors dirt cheap as well. why would i spend near 3 grand for a turbo kit and it doesn't even have a proper engine management system and isn't suited for my needs.

a gt28r goes for 780 brand new btw. and a nice manifold might set you back 300-400 bucks. but that's the most important part. better than paying for a 2700 dollar kit with a generic t3/t4.

[K20EF9]

the greddy kit was an example and a t3/t4 57 trim integra spools at what rpm?

why are you comparing a 2700 dollar turbo kit with an fmu to a 1600 dollar manifold and turbo setup? and obviously you've never ridden in a 57 trim b-series vtec. sure they make nice "peak" power but the spool time is boring. they're fast on the highway and nothing else unless it's in a 2200 lbs hatch. even then i can take them through 3rd gear with my little t25g. you can find gt28r's for 600 bucks and spend 300 on a nice manifold. after that you need an intercooler kit which is no more than 400 bucks if you know how to shop, injectors, fuel pump and some form of "proper" ecu tuning, and a down pipe. you can get walbro's for under a 100 bucks and some 550cc injectors dirt cheap as well. why would i spend near 3 grand for a turbo kit and it doesn't even have a proper engine management system and isn't suited for my needs.

a gt28r goes for 780 brand new btw. and a nice manifold might set you back 300-400 bucks. but that's the most important part. better than paying for a 2700 dollar kit with a generic t3/t4.

What crack are you smoking dude. I said AFI kit 2 or 3 times now I never mentioned anything about a ****ing Greddy kit. AFI kits don't come with an FMU so maybe you need to do some research. I've been in more B, D, and K series turbo cars than you have probably ever saw. My friends B16 Integra was running a t3 60-1 last year making 373whp on 16 psi and went 11.7 in a full weight 1992 Acura Integra. So to say a 1.8L with a t3/t4 57 trim would be slow you are out of your ****ing mind.

You clearly have not a clue what you are talking about so you should just quit. My friends sleeved 2.0L Hatch spools a t3/t67 HO with no problems. My friends single cam fully spools his t3/t4 57 trim by 4000 rpms and he's on 18 psi. Maybe you should stick to Nissans because you clearly don't seem to have 1 bit of intelligence when it comes to Hondas.

Just because you are too cheap to buy quality parts doesn't mean other people are.

[K20EF9]

Since you can't comprehend AFI

http://www.hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2060166

Kits come complete with:

-AFI 304ss Tubular Ramhorn Manifold, Limited Lifetime Warrany
-AFI 3" Stainless Downpipe w/ braided flex and O2 bung
-AFI Stainless DIY dumptube kit
-AFI 26x6.5.3.5 Garrett Core Backdoor Front mount Intercooler
-AFI 2.5'" Powder Coated Charge Piping Kit, Bead Rolled
-AFI Street oil line kit (AN fittings, Braided line)
-Garrett T3/T04e 57 trim
-Tial 38mm MVS V-Band Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Q Blow-Off Valve
-PWR 4-Ply silicone couplers
-Strong T-Bolt Clamps
-All miscellaneous gaskets and hardware

If you read on and you can clearly see you can upgrade parts and also add:

Option #1 – Walbro 255lph HP w/ Install Kit, RC Engineering 750cc Saturated, Hondata S300 w/ Socketed P28 Retail - $1410 Bundle - $1189

And then theres even more features:

-OBD1 Bosch-Style Injector Clips +$40
-Substitute RC Injectors for Precision Peak & Hold -$55
-OBD2>OBD1 Conversion Harness +$90
-Boost-By-Gear Kit, Includes Hardware, Solenoid, Installation +$169
-AEM Boost/Oil Pressure Gauge +$189/Each
-AEM Wideband Gauge +$265

[redtoprps13]

What crack are you smoking dude. I said AFI kit 2 or 3 times now I never mentioned anything about a ****ing Greddy kit. AFI kits don't come with an FMU so maybe you need to do some research. I've been in more B, D, and K series turbo cars than you have probably ever saw. My friends B16 Integra was running a t3 60-1 last year making 373whp on 16 psi and went 11.7 in a full weight 1992 Acura Integra. So to say a 1.8L with a t3/t4 57 trim would be slow you are out of your ****ing mind.

You clearly have not a clue what you are talking about so you should just quit. My friends sleeved 2.0L Hatch spools a t3/t67 HO with no problems. My friends single cam fully spools his t3/t4 57 trim by 4000 rpms and he's on 18 psi. Maybe you should stick to Nissans because you clearly don't seem to have 1 bit of intelligence when it comes to Hondas.

Just because you are too cheap to buy quality parts doesn't mean other people are.
dude read where i said the greddy kit was an example of an off the shelf kit...... i never said you said anything about a greddy kit. read a response before you reply. you want to see a 370+whp k20 turbo car just look at my facebook profile. and yes i've ridden in a 57 trim t3/t4 eg hatch and like i said it was fast on the highway. in terms of response my t25g had would keep up through the middle of third from a dig and then he'd run away. i seriously doubt a 57 trim is hitting 18 psi by 4K on a d16. there is more to a turbo build than peak power. in terms of throttle response i'm not impressed wiht a 57 trim

and last i checked a gt28r isn't a lame turbo. you're talking about a 600 dollar journal bearing turbo vs dual ball bearing oil and water cooled turbo. sure the 57 trim will make more power but the 28r will out spool it any day of the week how is that being cheap and not having a quality part. then you can get them new for 780 dollars. and a 1992 integra isn't even heavy. with a full tank of gas and all fluids it's a 2500 lbs car. and how well would any of the setups you mentioned perform on a road race or auto-x even?

[redtoprps13]

Since you can't comprehend AFI

http://www.hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2060166

Kits come complete with:

-AFI 304ss Tubular Ramhorn Manifold, Limited Lifetime Warrany
-AFI 3" Stainless Downpipe w/ braided flex and O2 bung
-AFI Stainless DIY dumptube kit
-AFI 26x6.5.3.5 Garrett Core Backdoor Front mount Intercooler
-AFI 2.5'" Powder Coated Charge Piping Kit, Bead Rolled
-AFI Street oil line kit (AN fittings, Braided line)
-Garrett T3/T04e 57 trim
-Tial 38mm MVS V-Band Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Q Blow-Off Valve
-PWR 4-Ply silicone couplers
-Strong T-Bolt Clamps
-All miscellaneous gaskets and hardware

If you read on and you can clearly see you can upgrade parts and also add:

Option #1 – Walbro 255lph HP w/ Install Kit, RC Engineering 750cc Saturated, Hondata S300 w/ Socketed P28 Retail - $1410 Bundle - $1189

And then theres even more features:

-OBD1 Bosch-Style Injector Clips +$40
-Substitute RC Injectors for Precision Peak & Hold -$55
-OBD2>OBD1 Conversion Harness +$90
-Boost-By-Gear Kit, Includes Hardware, Solenoid, Installation +$169
-AEM Boost/Oil Pressure Gauge +$189/Each
-AEM Wideband Gauge +$265

maybe you should do some research. you're gonna spend 2700 dollars for 1800 dollar worth of parts then spend another 1200 for the bundle then spend 265 dollars for just just the aem wideband gauge and other inflated stuff. yo do realize a diy kit with all that stuff listed of equal quality is almost half of the price.


just because it's a diy doesn't mean it's less reliable etc. if you do your research you'll spend less money and end up with system that is suited for your needs. that's what i mean by a turbo that's too big for your motor. a 57 trim is a slow spooling unresponsive turbo that's good for peak power. why do you need a 450whp capable turbo for a motor that will never get past 300-350whp. that kit is a joke. you think you need hondata for a 300-400whp honda? please? you're just another fanboy that blindly follows superstreet.

a walbro goes for roughly 100 dollars shipping included. hondata s300 is so overrated and retails for 600 dollars by itself. there are other cheaper options that achieve the same results as hondata just as reliably....the wonders of a chipped tuned p28. you could have chipped p28 completely done with other tuning software for under half the price of hondata by itself if you knew how to research. christ even an aem wideband gauge and sensor can be had new for under 190 dollars and you'll pay 265 for it?

hell gt30r's go for 600 dollars new if you know where to find deals and i'm not talking about ebay. easy with the name calling it only makes you look like a child

[K20EF9]

dude read where i said the greddy kit was an example of an off the shelf kit...... i never said you said anything about a greddy kit. read a response before you reply. you want to see a 370+whp k20 turbo car just look at my facebook profile. and yes i've ridden in a 57 trim t3/t4 eg hatch and like i said it was fast on the highway. in terms of response my t25g had would keep up through the middle of third from a dig and then he'd run away. i seriously doubt a 57 trim is hitting 18 psi by 4K on a d16. there is more to a turbo build than peak power. in terms of throttle response i'm not impressed wiht a 57 trim

and last i checked a gt28r isn't a lame turbo. you're talking about a 600 dollar journal bearing turbo vs dual ball bearing oil and water cooled turbo. sure the 57 trim will make more power but the 28r will out spool it any day of the week how is that being cheap and not having a quality part. then you can get them new for 780 dollars. and a 1992 integra isn't even heavy. with a full tank of gas and all fluids it's a 2500 lbs car. and how well would any of the setups you mentioned perform on a road race or auto-x even?

Then why did you keep saying **** about a $2700 greddy kit with an fmu when I was talking about an AFI kit with no fmu..?

Well the car goes 11s so I think the turbo is doing the car just fine.

I never said a gt28r is a lame turbo but brand new they are $1000, I don't disagree that a gt28r will spool quicker than a 57 trim, but why buy a $1000 turbo and half ass everything else...?

They aren't built for road racing or auto-x.

[K20EF9]

maybe you should do some research. you're gonna spend 2700 dollars for 1800 dollar worth of parts then spend another 1200 for the bundle then spend 265 dollars for just just the aem wideband gauge and other inflated stuff. yo do realize a diy kit with all that stuff listed of equal quality is almost half of the price.


just because it's a diy doesn't mean it's less reliable etc. if you do your research you'll spend less money and end up with system that is suited for your needs. that's what i mean by a turbo that's too big for your motor. a 57 trim is a slow spooling unresponsive turbo that's good for peak power. why do you need a 450whp capable turbo for a motor that will never get past 300-350whp. that kit is a joke. you think you need hondata for a 300-400whp honda? please? you're just another fanboy that blindly follows superstreet.

a walbro goes for roughly 100 dollars shipping included. hondata s300 is so overrated and retails for 600 dollars by itself. there are other cheaper options that achieve the same results as hondata just as reliably....the wonders of a chipped tuned p28. you could have chipped p28 completely done with other tuning software for under half the price of hondata by itself if you knew how to research. christ even an aem wideband gauge and sensor can be had new for under 190 dollars and you'll pay 265 for it?

hell gt30r's go for 600 dollars new if you know where to find deals and i'm not talking about ebay. easy with the name calling it only makes you look like a child

$1800 worth of parts..? How do you figure..? You are telling me you can get those exact parts brand new for $1800..? I agree some things are overpriced but I'd be willing to bet, well I actually I know for a fact they will hook you up with better deals.

I know of a few people running bone stock GSR's just right below 400whp. No you don't need Hondata at all I know people making over 550 on Neptune Tuner Version. Sorry I don't read super street and I don't run Hondata either I'm on Neptune. LOL thats hilarious so I'm a Honda fanboy with a Honda that makes well over 200whp NA B series.

I love your cheap ass prices you randomly throw up, IMW sells the aem wideband for 219 and I haven't saw it cheaper anywhere. $600 for a gt30r..? LOL so please tell me what gt35rs go for because if you can get them for $600 too I'll buy 50 of them.

[redtoprps13]

Then why did you keep saying **** about a $2700 greddy kit with an fmu when I was talking about an AFI kit with no fmu..?

Well the car goes 11s so I think the turbo is doing the car just fine.

I never said a gt28r is a lame turbo but brand new they are $1000, I don't disagree that a gt28r will spool quicker than a 57 trim, but why buy a $1000 turbo and half ass everything else...?

They aren't built for road racing or auto-x.

1. the greddy kit was an example of a popular typical off the shelf turbo kti

2.a gt28r is not 1000 dollars
http://enjukuracing.com/sr20det-turbocharger-p-7353.html?cPath=24_80
its costs about as much as an up to date legit t3/t4 57 trim.

http://enjukuracing.com/product_thumb.php?img=images/1080663958_Picture_s15turbo.jpg&w=95&h=80

3. there is more to life than a 1/4 mile car with slicks running a laggy ass turbo. that car would be even faster with a more responsive turbo and less peak whp. and sure a t3/t4 it would be fast at the 1/4 mile track, but how would it fair in a more close circuited technical setting?...it would get dogged by cars with much less power but with more use able powerband.

4. spending lots of money on parts doesn't guaranty their quality. perfect example would a holset hx35 vs t3/t4 57 trim. holset uses much better technology in their wheel designs and they're good to 45 psi and virtually indestructible with better spool time than the 57 trim depending on the housing you select. they go for 300 dollars and the bep housing upgrade is 200-250 bucks. understand why i don't like off the shelf kits. a bargain doesn't equal half-assing. you did a k20 swap into an ef chassis. i bet you didn't buy the motor brand new from honda, i bet you got a used one and swapped it yourself for cheaper because you didn't want to pay 7000 dollars for a 175 whp motor directly from honda. i bet you found a deal on it and then swapped it yourself.

5. don't get me wrong the benefit is of a kit is if you get a nice one you can get all of your parts up front with little hassle but you'll pay more out of pocket. but i just can't justify paying another 30% for parts just because somebody put them in a box for me.

6. i have ridden in an em1 si here in morgantown my boy eric has it and he had a 57 trim kit like the one you listed on his b16 and that thing wouldnt' even hit maximum boost of around 10 psi till around 5000 rpms. he'll even tell you himself that on the highway from a dig yeah it could keep up with pretty high hp cars but put in quick burst stop light setting it would have it's **** eaten by 200 hp cars simply because of lack of response.

[redtoprps13]

$1800 worth of parts..? How do you figure..? You are telling me you can get those exact parts brand new for $1800..? I agree some things are overpriced but I'd be willing to bet, well I actually I know for a fact they will hook you up with better deals.

I know of a few people running bone stock GSR's just right below 400whp. No you don't need Hondata at all I know people making over 550 on Neptune Tuner Version. Sorry I don't read super street and I don't run Hondata either I'm on Neptune. LOL thats hilarious so I'm a Honda fanboy with a Honda that makes well over 200whp NA B series.

I love your cheap ass prices you randomly throw up, IMW sells the aem wideband for 219 and I haven't saw it cheaper anywhere. $600 for a gt30r..? LOL so please tell me what gt35rs go for because if you can get them for $600 too I'll buy 50 of them.

i called you honda fanbody because you were throwing quarter mile times of cars you don't even own without any video proof or slips of such times. and then making false claims of a sohc that spools a 57 trim to 18psi by 4000 rpms. i'm not impressed with an 11.7 1/4 mile at 373 whp that wasn't done in a weighted car while using street tires. then just like every other honda boy, you think that if you don't currently own a honda that you don't know how they work. do you know the type of head work and custom cam you would need to spool a 57 trim with a 1.5-1.6 liter to 18 psi by 4k rpms? the motor would be nowhere near stock in any way shape or form to achieve such claims i'm not cheap i just don't throw my money away to make somebody else pocket fatter just because they put their name on a product. name brand doesn't mean ****. garret is more popular than holset, borg warner and other companies yet their turbos aren't near the quality off either company.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000CFQM4G/ref=sr_1_olp_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1240763315&sr=8-1

about a month ago they even had a special where you could get them for 79 shipped and then 100 for the sensor and wiring. it happens every so often. even there they're much cheaper than 265+ shipping from a kit. i'm sure more parts from said kit can be found even cheaper

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/317EZ4A4JEL.jpg

and atp had 600 dollar gt30r's on clearance for 600 bucks last weekend


p.s. i moderate on www.superhonda.com and i've owned two gsr integras. i dont' mind spending money for a nice turbo and manifold those are the parts that matter. just go look at j-evan's tuned b18c1 with gt28rs on it. it's a little pricier than a g28r or t3/t4 57 trim but it definitely fixes the honda motors tendancy to not have midrange and gives it umph up top. some sr guys were hitting 10 psi by 2700 rpms off of that turbo

[TurboGSR96]

This thread is absolutely horrible, I love how Nissan and Mitsubishi tards are coming in here telling people that build Honda's what works and what doesnt.......

THEN I think I saw someone stating a .57 trim on a GSR is laggy, jeazus f-in christ GTFO of this thread already.

[TurboGSR96]

4. spending lots of money on parts doesn't guaranty their quality. perfect example would a holset hx35 vs t3/t4 57 trim. holset uses much better technology in their wheel designs and they're good to 45 psi and virtually indestructible with better spool time than the 57 trim depending on the housing you select.


LoL BBQ

[TurboGSR96]

3. there is more to life than a 1/4 mile car with slicks running a laggy ass turbo. that car would be even faster with a more responsive turbo and less peak whp. and sure a t3/t4 it would be fast at the 1/4 mile track, but how would it fair in a more close circuited technical setting?...it would get dogged by cars with much less power but with more use able powerband..


Apples and Oranges dude, how many people really build FWD Turbo Honda's to go around circle tracks? VERY VERY VERYYYYY Few....

So your saying I should trash my T67 for a .57 trim because it will make my car faster?

I would love to see the day a .57 trim ANYTHING dogs me, you seem like such an expert in all of this, how many high HP Honda's have you built SIR? Your knowledge is overwhelming me.

[redtoprps13]

This thread is absolutely horrible, I love how Nissan and Mitsubishi tards are coming in here telling people that build Honda's what works and what doesnt.......

THEN I think I saw someone stating a .57 trim on a GSR is laggy, jeazus f-in christ GTFO of this thread already.
and i love how honda boys think that unless you currently own a honda you don't know how they work. yes a 57 trim is laggy. i call max boost at near 5K rpms laggy. and yes i owned a 2 gsr's before my current car and i have 3 friends that are running a 57 trim. well 2 friends now since the one got stolen 2 months ago.

setup 1. was my boy jt's ls piston powered type r cammed jdm b18c with bbk manifold and a 57 trim. making 310 whp in a 1994 eg bubble

setup 2. my boy eric's 57 trim powered b16 2000 civic si. hit maximum boost of 10psi around 5000 rpms on said 57 trim. he then through a rod in a 5th gear pull and now it's a b18b swap with 57trim

setup 3. was my boy sam's car till he sold the kit since he needed funds. was a 57 trim powered b18b eg sedan running only 7 psi.

i can get pictures of the first two setups if you'd like. anyhow any of them will tell you straight up and yes i have ridden in them that a 57 trim turbo is a laggy turbo but it makes really high hp at maximum boost which can make up for it's lack of response in a high speed pull or 1/4 mile pass.

it's all in your preference of powerband. i'd rather have a more responsive setup with less power that run's similar times to the bigger turbo. i've seen the dyno graph of a disco potatoe on a "stock" b18c1 that evan's tuned and i was thoroughly impressed.

following your philosophy of "if you don't own a honda you don't know how to build them" would also mean that if "own a honda you autamatically know how to build them" which we all know is far from the truth.

[redtoprps13]

Apples and Oranges dude, how many people really build FWD Turbo Honda's to go around circle tracks? VERY VERY VERYYYYY Few....

So your saying I should trash my T67 for a .57 trim because it will make my car faster?

I would love to see the day a .57 trim ANYTHING dogs me, you seem like such an expert in all of this, how many high HP Honda's have you built SIR? Your knowledge is overwhelming me.

it's not apples and oranges. it's called creating a build that suites your needs. on the street and anything out side of a high speed pull or 1/4 mile response > high hp.

believe it or not people do build their hondas to perform all around with power and handling. and no i didn't say dog your t67 trim for a .57 trim to go faster. i said there are setups that are more responive and that make less power but will out perform the higher hp turbo. obviously if your building an all out drag car lag is the least of yoru issues. you can make up for lack of response with n20, 2 step, and anti-lag. but your're missing the point. but why do you need a 450 hp snail for a setup that won't ever see past 250?

we aren't talking all out drag cars. we are talking street cars. hence my comparison of response in such events like auto-x, or road coursing it. there is more to life than the 1/4 mile or peak hp

[Got Insulin?]

This thread is absolutely horrible, I love how Nissan and Mitsubishi tards are coming in here telling people that build Honda's what works and what doesnt.......

THEN I think I saw someone stating a .57 trim on a GSR is laggy, jeazus f-in christ GTFO of this thread already.

I think it's pretty funny that you aren't really contributing to the worth of this thread just by whining. I also think it's pretty funny that Aaron agreed with and expanded my list, well, because I'm a Mitsu tard and, he's got a built Honda, and the dude with the Nissan who's been more help than just about 90% of the Honda crowd in this thread, is getting dissed.

This is the nice warning, contribute and play nice, or don't post. Thanks.

[redtoprps13]

here are just one of the builds we have to play with
it is a k20z3 in an eg hatch. makes a about 380whp at 7-8 psi

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dammit how do i embed this ****?

[TurboGSR96]

I think it's pretty funny that you aren't really contributing to the worth of this thread just by whining. I also think it's pretty funny that Aaron agreed with and expanded my list, well, because I'm a Mitsu tard and, he's got a built Honda, and the dude with the Nissan who's been more help than just about 90% of the Honda crowd in this thread, is getting dissed.

This is the nice warning, contribute and play nice, or don't post. Thanks.

Sorry there was so much **** in this thread I didnt know where to begin, and its clear that the people that are misinformed are so sure they are correct in their belief's its not worth my time, but it was worth my laugh and a few lazy comments.

[TurboGSR96]

it's not apples and oranges. it's called creating a build that suites your needs. on the street and anything out side of a high speed spool or 1/4 mile response > high hp.

believe it or not people do build their hondas to perform all around with power and handling. and no i didn't say dog your t67 trim for a .57 trim to go faster. i said there are setups that are more responive and that make less power but will out perform the higher hp turbo. obviously if your building an all out drag car lag is the least of yoru issues. you can make up for lack of response with n20, 2 step, and anti-lag. but your're missing the point. but why do you need a 450 hp snail for a setup that won't ever see past 250?

we aren't talking all out drag cars. we are talking street cars. hence my comparison of response in such events like auto-x, or road coursing it. there is more to life than the 1/4 mile or peak hp

Lolz wat is a T67 trim? The word trim was never typed by my hand, however T67 did (eh 67mm Compressor, T4 P-Trim Turbine Wheel stuffed in a machined T3 housing.....) I have not owned a Turbo catagoried by "Trim" since I was 19...... You are in here giving advice and you just said this? Seriously GTFO *literally*

In case you were unaware, Honda's run WAYYY less boost than your purpose built Iron Block 4G63 and other factory turbo cars on pump gas, our open deck sleeves (which are paper thin) and high compression do not allow us to run the same amount of boost than the above mentioned blocks safely so to make up for the less boost pressure you pick a compressor that flows more at a lower PR, therefor our Turbo selection SHOULD NOT be the same as other lower reving, ****ty head equipped I-4's produced my Mitsu and Subaru etc.......


You are stuck on responce but you fail to factor in the higher rev's right from the factory our cars produce, your midrange might be 3500rpm but mine is 5500rpm because I rev to 9800rpm.... I dont need power at 4krpm it takes less than a second for me to get into power with a Turbo capable of 750whp. I will take a laggy setup over a setup that is gassed out of breath at 7k with 1500 more RPM's to go..... LMK how that works out for you in a race, either at the track or on the street.

My car is a street car and it runs a stupid big turbo, stupid small tires and I am fat...... anyone want to race me and show me what the "powerband" from your cute little GT28R can do to me boost pressure vs boost pressure over a distance vs time event?


I could go on and on, but this thread is starting to appear like a youtube comment box full of stupid info, so I am going to let you think what you want...... because its apparent you got it all figured out.

[TurboGSR96]

and i love how honda boys think that unless you currently own a honda you don't know how they work. yes a 57 trim is laggy. i call max boost at near 5K rpms laggy. .

If it takes a .57 trim 5k rpm's to make 10psi something is horribly wrong, either a retard tuned it or, or there is something else wrong. FYI I can make 25psi+ (boost cut) by 5700rpm in a turbo capable of flowing 80cfm, and carry that power to past 10,000rpm on stock cams and a stock port head, aah I love Honda's.....

Aah the old .57 trim, I had one of those cute little things on my GSR 7 years ago, back when most of you only dreamed of owning a turbo car, and I know for a fact it made 14psi by 4000rpm on my bone stock GSR with a **** LS tranny, a gay log manifold, crust bend downpipe and an SAFC Hack tune........

My friends 2.0L LS/V ran that same turbo also many many years ago, and I know for a fact he was making 1 bar right at 3700-3800 rpm.

[TurboGSR96]

] you think you need hondata for a 300-400whp honda? please? you're just another fanboy that blindly follows superstreet.




Haha, then what do you suggest? A stock untuned ECU with timing tables for an NA car? An SAFC and missing link? FMU?

I just now read this comment, and I am now convinced EVERYTHING YOU KNOW ABOUT HONDA'S WAS GATHERED YEARS AGO.

I BEG you to go on Honda-Tech in the FI section with that comment and your beliefs, you will be shredded alive and realize you truly dont know s**t about boosting a Honda.

[TurboGSR96]

following your philosophy of "if you don't own a honda you don't know how to build them" would also mean that if "own a honda you autamatically know how to build them" which we all know is far from the truth.


So all your info is from "friends" cars...... nuff said

Since I built my car myself, from the part selection to the welding..... I would like to think I know a thing or 2 about them. When you build something that is even 1/3 of what I got I might begin to take you seriously.

*EDIT* N/m on that, I just remembered you think a 300-400hp boosted Honda does not need an EMS, that seals your fate. :banned:

[redtoprps13]

Haha, then what do you suggest? A stock untuned ECU with timing tables for an NA car? An SAFC and missing link? FMU?

I just now read this comment, and I am now convinced EVERYTHI67 NG YOU KNOW ABOUT HONDA'S WAS GATHERED YEARS AGO.

I BEG you to go on Honda-Tech in the FI section with that comment and your beliefs, you will be shredded alive and realize you truly dont know s**t about boosting a Honda.

did you even read the thread where i said not to use an fmu? you know nothing about tuning and hondas do you? and ttrim was a typo obviously. i was typing 57 trim and forgot to delete anyway. i doubt on honda tech if i came on said a more responsive kit is better than a big laggy kit for drag racing. you're trying your best to poke holes where there aren't any so you nit pick on typo's grow up dude.

the more you respond the more we realize you know nothing. anybody can slap the biggest turbo they want on a car and run fast times. building a balanced setup that's fast, handles, and is responsive is much more respectable.

i like how you try to throw **** up when you didn't even take the time to read through the thread and make a valid argument as opposed to blind accusations. i said there are effective routes equivalent to hondata that are a 3rd the price.

[redtoprps13]

So all your info is from "friends" cars...... nuff said

Since I built my car myself, from the part selection to the welding..... I would like to think I know a thing or 2 about them. When you build something that is even 1/3 of what I got I might begin to take you seriously.

*EDIT* N/m on that, I just remembered you think a 300-400hp boosted Honda does not need an EMS, that seals your fate. :banned:

read the thread noob

and did you miss the part where i said i've previously owned two gsr's? i didn't want to make big power on a fwd car hence why i got the s13. and i've been there throught builds and the tunes for my friends rides. you think because i don't own the car even though i've driven it and been there for the tuning and build sessions that i don't know what i'm talkign about? the only thing you've proven in this thread is that you can't read/comprehend

[redtoprps13]

If it takes a .57 trim 5k rpm's to make 10psi something is horribly wrong, either a retard tuned it or, or there is something else wrong. FYI I can make 25psi+ (boost cut) by 5700rpm in a turbo capable of flowing 80cfm, and carry that power to past 10,000rpm on stock cams and a stock port head, aah I love Honda's.....

Aah the old .57 trim, I had one of those cute little things on my GSR 7 years ago, back when most of you only dreamed of owning a turbo car, and I know for a fact it made 14psi by 4000rpm on my bone stock GSR with a **** LS tranny, a gay log manifold, crust bend downpipe and an SAFC Hack tune........

My friends 2.0L LS/V ran that same turbo also many many years ago, and I know for a fact he was making 1 bar right at 3700-3800 rpm.

and i've ridden in a stock b16 which what i said and it made full boost near 5000k rpms. yeah on stock cams and stock port head. obviously you can flow an 80cm turbo on a built bottom end with more displacement. what does that have to do with a stock b18c1. what would rather have on a stock b18c1. a power band from 2700 rpms till redline, or power from 4500 rpms till redline.

and what does a 2.0 ls/v have to do with anything? how does that
at even compare to a stock b18c1 or b16a2?

[redtoprps13]

Lolz wat is a T67 trim? The word trim was never typed by my hand, however T67 did (eh 67mm Compressor, T4 P-Trim Turbine Wheel stuffed in a machined T3 housing.....) I have not owned a Turbo catagoried by "Trim" since I was 19...... You are in here giving advice and you just said this? Seriously GTFO *literally*

In case you were unaware, Honda's run WAYYY less boost than your purpose built Iron Block 4G63 and other factory turbo cars on pump gas, our open deck sleeves (which are paper thin) and high compression do not allow us to run the same amount of boost than the above mentioned blocks safely so to make up for the less boost pressure you pick a compressor that flows more at a lower PR, therefor our Turbo selection SHOULD NOT be the same as other lower reving, ****ty head equipped I-4's produced my Mitsu and Subaru etc.......


You are stuck on responce but you fail to factor in the higher rev's right from the factory our cars produce, your midrange might be 3500rpm but mine is 5500rpm because I rev to 9800rpm.... I dont need power at 4krpm it takes less than a second for me to get into power with a Turbo capable of 750whp. I will take a laggy setup over a setup that is gassed out of breath at 7k with 1500 more RPM's to go..... LMK how that works out for you in a race, either at the track or on the street.

My car is a street car and it runs a stupid big turbo, stupid small tires and I am fat...... anyone want to race me and show me what the "powerband" from your cute little GT28R can do to me boost pressure vs boost pressure over a distance vs time event?


I could go on and on, but this thread is starting to appear like a youtube comment box full of stupid info, so I am going to let you think what you want...... because its apparent you got it all figured out.

actually the gt28r was an example of a more responsive turbo for a street car
we are talking about budget setups here not full race setups. you're comparing built motors to street motors with bolt on turbo kits. you're completely missing the point.

and i said look at the evans tuned gt28rs on a stock b18c1 not gt28r. why are you comparing fully built race cars? do you read anything before you reply?
and no stock b-series motors revs to 9800 rpms so why are you bringing your motor into this. with boost you can always manipulate gear setting to take advantage of your powerband. no ****. i like how you go off on a tangent comparing fully built motors with big turbo vs 2 stock motors with bolt-on turbo kits

and obviously it would run less boost than a 4g63 majority of b-series vtec motors run over 10:1 compression vs an sr20det at 8.5:1 or a 4g63 which can be seen as low as 7.9:1. yes we have to run more boost we aren't n/a motors. and like is said the trim was a typo. i know about the cm of wheels, housing specs and flow rate (lbs/min). the i meant to right t67. sorry i was in a hurry and didn't have time to proof read ever little word before i ran out to walmart

[redtoprps13]

so my 98 gsr has 90k on it an alot of people are telling me i should boost it instead of building it more.

it pretty much stock, but if i set it to 7 or 8 psi im told id be fine

my question is, what exactly would i need, and how hard is install and about what would a tune run me. ..not looking to go nuts but just something to give a little more power



the op has a stock ****ing motor. not a built ****ing acl bearing built bottom powered lsvtec motor.
we are talking buget built kits for street motors and you have a fully built 11 sec car sure if you build your motor and extend redline you can take advantage of peakier turbo....good job dude. but the op has a 90k miles stock motor. with a more responsive turbo on the street he could easily broaden his powerband without having to extend the redline by building the head. a motor is a motor. i could build my car with a huge as turbo and build the head to take advantage of the peakier power. how is that different than building a honda?

[redtoprps13]

Haha, then what do you suggest? A stock untuned ECU with timing tables for an NA car? An SAFC and missing link? FMU?

I just now read this comment, and I am now convinced EVERYTHING YOU KNOW ABOUT HONDA'S WAS GATHERED YEARS AGO.

I BEG you to go on Honda-Tech in the FI section with that comment and your beliefs, you will be shredded alive and realize you truly dont know s**t about boosting a Honda.

you could have chipped p28 completely done with other tuning software for under half the price of hondata by itself if you knew how to research.


oh wait maybe if you read the thread before replying you would see i never said to run the car without ems. go read a book.

and laggy is in reference to transient throttle response. not just spool up from a dig. same way i've seen 219whp n/a dc2's with a 75 shot whoop up on 400whp+ turbo cars. the n/a car was on juice and has a 4.9 fd gear built head on a stock b18c5 bottom end. but like i said before you can change gearing and overbearing power can make up for response. as well as n2o, 2-step, and anti-lag. the thread was never about 600-700hp to begin with. it's about a stock b18c1 planning to run 7-8 psi on a budget kit

[TurboGSR96]

and i've ridden in a stock b16 which what i said and it made full boost near 5000k rpms. yeah on stock cams and stock port head. obviously you can flow an 80cm turbo on a built bottom end with more displacement. what does that have to do with a stock b18c1. what would rather have on a stock b18c1. a power band from 2700 rpms till redline, or power from 4500 rpms till redline.

and what does a 2.0 ls/v have to do with anything? how does that
at even compare to a stock b18c1 or b16a2?


My motor is...

Stock Bore
Stock Stroke
Stock Port Head
Stock GSR Cams...... how is that not somewhat comparable? Oh and I am 2 whole points lower in compression than a stock GSR......

Ill take the 4500rpm powerband, because that turbo that is making power at 2700rpm is out of breath by 8k.


My friends car was an example, just like the examples of your "friends" cars, I posted my personal experience with said Turbo on a completely stock GSR, sorry you apparently dont read either.

[TurboGSR96]

Did you ever think that people dont want to use the bugged and rather gay free software to tune their cars? Go run stupid Crome, while you are at it hook up a timing light and compare what the light reads to what the EMS shows you, then maybe you will think twice about recommending that junk to people.

[TurboGSR96]

And since you have an answer for EVERYTHING, there is clearly no need for someone that actually builds these cars AND races them, whom also lives-eats-and ****s Boosted Honda's, not to mention someone who has spent years on Honda-Tech, so recommend as you wish..... you are clearly the front running expert on this site. Have a nice day.....


BTW how old are you?

[redtoprps13]

My motor is...

Stock Bore
Stock Stroke
Stock Port Head
Stock GSR Cams...... how is that not somewhat comparable?

Ill take the 4500rpm powerband, because that turbo that is making power at 2700rpm is out of breath by 8k.


My friends car was an example, just like the examples of your "friends" cars, I posted my personal experience with said Turbo on a completely stock GSR, sorry you apparently dont read either.

depends on the turbo and manifold combo you go with actually . if you have a twin scroll flange on certain turbo's with a proper (yet expensive manifold) a turbo making boost near 3 grand can pull power to around 8 grand. but like i said before the op is doing a budget build at 7-8 psi on a stock b18c1. why does he need a 450hp turbo for 250 hp build?

[redtoprps13]

Did you ever think that people dont want to use the bugged and rather gay free software to tune their cars? Go run stupid Crome, while you are at it hook up a timing light and compare what the light reads to what the EMS shows you, then maybe you will think twice about recommending that junk to people.

yeah you're right it's terrible junk. tell that to the numerous hondas making hundreds of hp with that junkware. and i didn't say chrome did i? i said there are numerous other programs that get the job done. not everybody needs a big turbo 11 second car. this thread is about a guy not trying to go crazy with his car but wants a little extra power, why does he need over 3500 into a kit that doesn't even come with a nice turbo. my t25g will keep up with t3/t4 eg bubble at 9 lbs off of said turbo through the middle of third gear. and i was only running 7psi. go put that 57 trim against a same flanged gt2871r or gt28rs on something other than a 1/4 mile course. we are talking about a lightly boost street car

[redtoprps13]

And since you have an answer for EVERYTHING, there is clearly no need for someone that actually builds these cars AND races them, whom also lives-eats-and ****s Boosted Honda's, not to mention someone who has spent years on Honda-Tech, so recommend as you wish..... you are clearly the front running expert on this site. Have a nice day.....


BTW how old are you?

1. congrats!... you put a big turbo on a light car and ran 11's. what exactly does that prove

2. so what you live eat and breathe Hondas...we get you like hondas alot....i like football alot, doesn't mean i can coach a pro-football team

3. on no!!!! you spent many years on a honda forum..... my bad i didn't realize internet forums counted for anything.

4 i've been an active member on a honda forum as well since i had my first two gsr's. oh wait and i moderate it as well :-p.

5. we went from talking about a lightly boosted stock b18c1 to your friends 9800 rpm built motor. obviously a 57 trim will perform better on a motor built for it. for lower hp goals the smaller more responsive turbo is better for the street

6. just like any other e-thug once your opinions have been shot down all you can do is nitpick.

7. you're right i'm wrong, response doesn't mean anything. i guess that's why they have 2-step, anti-lag, and n20. tell that too a rally racer or anybody else trying to make big power without the side effects of a larger turbine's lack of response.

.8 http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.synapseturbo.com/images/dyno_graphs/57trim_pressure.JPG&imgrefurl=http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp%3FThreadPage%3D2%26Forum ID%3D12%26TopicID%3D227693&usg=__ctatZMxwxJscIzEfIY-BgzZpg20=&h=1024&w=1280&sz=192&hl=en&start=1&tbnid=ZP-kgvlKaOdQ0M:&tbnh=120&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Db18c1%2B57%2Btrim%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den %26sa%3DG


this is a b16 with a t3 flanged disco potatoe vs 57 trim doesn't spool as fast as an sr or gsr obviously since it's a 1.6 but tell me which one would be better for the street. obviously on a stock gsr either turbo will spool faster. but i don't see it falling on it's face. gets to it's desired boost pressre faster and holds it steadily to redline on a motor with a pretty high redline from the factory. also means it gets better transient throttle response



28rshttp://www.synapseturbo.com/images/dyno_graphs/gt28rs_pressure.JPG

57trim
http://www.synapseturbo.com/images/dyno_graphs/57trim_pressure.JPG

[TurboGSR96]

1. congrats!... you put a big turbo on a light car and ran 11's. what exactly does that prove

5. we went from talking about a lightly boosted stock b18c1 to your friends 9800 rpm built motor. obviously a 57 trim will perform better on a motor built for it. for lower hp goals the smaller more responsive turbo is better for the street




1. Actually I put a mid size turbo on a rather heavy (speaking Honda's) 2650lb Integra and went 11.01 on its first pass in the middle of December off the wastegate spring not even launching in boost on a TRUE STREET CAR..... it proves I actually have a mid-high 10sec car if I actually launch it running the same boost, and a high 9sec 150+mph car with another 15-20lb of boost..... but that aint ish to what you got going on in your ring apparently.


2. The 9800rpm motor is mine, he is too scared to rev his motor past 9k, he has no faith in his 85x89mm motor, which happens to have a GT42R hanging off it right now.

3. This all started when you came out and said a .57 trim is laggy on a B-Series, it is HANDS DOWN THE MOST POPULAR TURBO PUT ON A STOCK B ENGINE since people have been buying Turbo Kits for Honda's, not the Disco Potato which is definately a good Turbo for the vehicles that you are apparently into.

4. You never answered..... Age?


My car with the boost controller off, notice the horrible responce and sheer utter laggyness involved with a monster snail on a stock bore, stroke, head port and cam 8.0:1 GSR. Also note shifting at 8k and blipped past 8k in 3rd just for the hell of it, not like it made a difference.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rptHU44lm8

[redtoprps13]

1. Actually I put a mid size turbo on a rather heavy (speaking Honda's) 2650lb Integra and went 11.01 on its first pass in the middle of December off the wastegate spring not even launching in boost on a TRUE STREET CAR..... it proves I actually have a mid-high 10sec car if I actually launch it running the same boost, and a high 9sec 150+mph car with another 15-20lb of boost..... but that aint ish to what you got going on in your ring apparently.


2. The 9800rpm motor is mine, he is too scared to rev his motor past 9k, he has no faith in his 85x89mm motor, which happens to have a GT42R hanging off it right now.

3. This all started when you came out and said a .57 trim is laggy on a B-Series, it is HANDS DOWN THE MOST POPULAR TURBO PUT ON A STOCK B ENGINE since people have been buying Turbo Kits for Honda's, not the Disco Potato which is definately a good Turbo for the vehicles that you are apparently into.

4. You never answered..... Age?


My car with the boost controller off, notice the horrible responce and sheer utter laggyness involved with a monster snail on a stock bore, stroke, head port and cam 8.0:1 GSR. Also note shifting at 8k and blipped past 8k in 3rd just for the hell of it, not like it made a difference.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rptHU44lm8


it's popular because it's a high hp cheap turbo. if twinscroll gt30r's were 800 bucks then they'd be more popular thatn 57 trims. and i'll repeat i said laggy in terms of transient throttle repsonse outside of the 1/4 mile and highway pull. i've said it 3 times now. even the gt30r is laggy to me. i'm not making 500whp and neither is the op why would you launch in full boost on fwd car from a dig? it's noticeably harder to gain traction. and that turbo was umm kinda laggy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n71zOrRJaY&feature=related

gt3071r almost identical power potential to a t3/t4 57 trim.

now an sr with a t3/t4

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=&search_query=sr20det+t3%2Ft4+dashboard&aq=f

so yes in my perspective a 57 trim is laggy. and yes the sr has .2 liters on a b18c but the b18c also has a much better flowing head. didn't say you wouldn't run a fast 1/4 mile time.


and true street car. did you do that run on street tires and show me a vid of your car on something other than the 1/4 mile or highway pull

btw what manifold is your t3/t4 running on?

[TurboGSR96]

Oh and you keep refering to this early spool thing, you do realise that when a GSR is shifted at 8k rpm, the RPM's never fall below 6000rpm unless you shift like an elderly woman, so that 500rpm that you pick up in spool with the Potato is really a non-issue in straightling acceleration.

Then I will come out and say that 500rpm difference in spool wont make a world of difference in a road race application either, one due to the fact that the Potat0's fast spooling nature and quick transient responce can actually work against the vehicle.... specifically FWD vehicles due to the large sudden torque rise that you get with a quick spooling turbo.

FYI look at those pretty boost plots you posted, try to read between the lines for a second...... both Turbo's make 4psi within 300rpm of each other, and maybe you forgot since your Honda days, it does not take long to move 300rpm in a DOHC VTEC Motor, so the OP will never even notice the difference, at 4000rpm both Turbo's will have said car moving hard, and I would take the slightly more linear spooling .57 Trim to win the race over the Potatoe.

Another FYI boost does not equal power, that .57 trim at 8psi could easily be making what the Disco is making at 10psi, so your whole argument is starting to go downhill fast.

[TurboGSR96]

it's popular because it's a high hp cheap turbo. if twinscroll gt30r's were 800 bucks then they'd be more popular thatn 57 trims. and i'll repeat i said laggy in terms of transient throttle repsonse outside of the 1/4 mile and aut-x. i've said it 3 times now. why would you launch in full boost on fwd car from a dig? it's noticeably harder to gain traction. and that turbo was umm kinda laggy.

Yea just "kinda" laggy, but not a terd...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n71zOrRJaY&feature=related

gt3071r almost identical power potential to a t3/t4 57 trim.

so yes in my perspective a 57 trim is laggy. and yes the sr has .2 liters on a b18c but the b18c also has a much better flowing head. didn't say you wouldn't run a fast 1/4 mile time.

Your perspective is unlike many other Honda owners, sorry.

and like i said congrats on running 11's with a 550whp 2600 lbs car and what do you mean not launching in boost like a true street car? some mid level performance cars come factory with 2-step/launch control

Lol act like a little prick all you want, I went basically 11 flat with under 500hp in a True Street Car (ie. Full Interior, No Safety Equipment, BS suspension and a 33degree track etc) and I did not launch in boost and spun most of the way down the track.


It is quite clear you have never raced a Honda on slicks, they generally have to launch in boost or they will bog..... I dont my car instantly spooled and was out the gate, no turbo killing anti-lag necessary.

[redtoprps13]

It is quite clear you have never raced a Honda on slicks, they generally have to launch in boost or they will bog..... I dont my car instantly spooled and was out the gate, no turbo killing anti-lag necessary.

it's not a street car if its' on slicks...... and anti-lag killing the turbo depends on the severity of the anti-lag. plenty of dsm guys have run mild anti-lag successfully with no issues. not to mention you can run a mild two step to build about 7 psi. and a more responsive turbo will help with it bogging since the turbine can get up to speed faster. and i know psi doesn't equal power. where did i ever say it did? and from a roll the more responsive turbo will the advantage that's physics. of course a bigger turbo will make more power with less psi if the wheel flows more lbs/min. following your philosophy i should get rid of my t25g an run a t78 at 4lbs of boost.

[redtoprps13]

Oh and you keep refering to this early spool thing, you do realise that when a GSR is shifted at 8k rpm, the RPM's never fall below 6000rpm unless you shift like an elderly woman, so that 500rpm that you pick up in spool with the Potato is really a non-issue in straightling acceleration.

Then I will come out and say that 500rpm difference in spool wont make a world of difference in a road race application either, one due to the fact that the Potat0's fast spooling nature and quick transient responce can actually work against the vehicle.... specifically FWD vehicles due to the large sudden torque rise that you get with a quick spooling turbo.

FYI look at those pretty boost plots you posted, try to read between the lines for a second...... both Turbo's make 4psi within 300rpm of each other, and maybe you forgot since your Honda days, it does not take long to move 300rpm in a DOHC VTEC Motor, so the OP will never even notice the difference, at 4000rpm both Turbo's will have said car moving hard, and I would take the slightly more linear spooling .57 Trim to win the race over the Potatoe.

Another FYI boost does not equal power, that .57 trim at 8psi could easily be making what the Disco is making at 10psi, so your whole argument is starting to go downhill fast.how many times do i have to tell you there is more to life than a straight line?


and it was a 700+rpm spool difference not 500 on massive courses where every second counts like the n-burg response is everything. yeah i know none of us will race there but it's an example. if t3/t4 57 trims were so amazing every major race team would be using them. it's a budget turbo that everybody can afford if big power is there goal. and yes early spool is important on a street car unless you like cruise around town at 6000 rpms for the helluva it. all of your arguments are about fast 1/4 mile times and nothing else. my argument from the beginning was to get a balanced setup for your own individual needs. and if you're worried about the disco being too much lowend for you look at a gt2871r won't hit you so much with all of that tq but will easily pull you past redline faster than a 57 trim

and the best way to control the sudden rise in tq that can offset a fwd car is called throttle control and who cares if the .57 makes the same power at 8 psi that a disco does at 10 if the disco gets to ten psi faster than the .57 gets to 8? remember we aren't talking 550whp cars we're overwhelming hp can make up for lack of response in a straightline. we are talking about builds that most likely won't go past 300whp anyway

i like how you try to lecture me on points that nobody brought up because you think it makes you look more intelligent. you have a fwd car than ran 11's on slicks that weighs 2600 lbs with a 650 dollar turbo making 550whp+....man too bad that's never been done before....

yes and no. when you factor in different turbo trims, different turbos produce different amounts of heat at certain psi. larger turbos are more thermally efficient than smaller ones at the sacrifice of response. a t25g at 15 psi vs a gt2871r at 15 psi are completely different things. a turbo reaching it's efficiency range can cause intake temps to sky rocket

why don't you read the whole thread before talking out of your butt again, it's on page one. i like how you lecture me and you can't even read a thread or stay on topic of the debate. go read a book.

the only reason your mad is that i called a t3/t4 57trim a cheap laggy turbo than can make big power and that there were better alternatives if you have lower power goals because peak numbers don't mean anything. that was my whole argument. and you're all butt hurt about it because it's true. the only defense you have is that you ran an 11.1 in a 2600 lbs car on slicks making 550whp+.....there is only person i know that lives his life a 1/4 miles at a time

See, that's exactly why you DONT buy a kit.

Go out, start reading, and truely know your stuff. Then you can build your own setup that properly fits your goals and save some $$ at the same time.

oh wait he said it too

i'll be 24 in September since you asked my age

[TurboGSR96]

Actually c*ock smoker its a $1300 Turbo (worth about 500 more than that soon to be classic tag worthy import you drive), and since you are such an FI expert you should of known that generally 10cfm is worth 100hp (well in a Honda, not that junk you drive), so you can bump the total hp the snail can make up a good bit. Did it ever occur to you that there is more to life then going around a circle track or road racing/drifting?

Man you should seriously think about giving some FI classes or starting your own Boost University.

How many Turbo Honda's have you personally built and owned?

[redtoprps13]

Actually c*ock smoker its a $1300 Turbo (worth about 500 more than that soon to be classic tag worthy import you drive), and since you are such an FI expert you should of known that generally 10cfm is worth 100hp (well in a Honda, not that junk you drive), so you can bump the total hp the snail can make up a good bit. Did it ever occur to you that there is more to life then going around a circle track or road racing/drifting?

Man you should seriously think about giving some FI classes or starting your own Boost University.

How many Turbo Honda's have you personally built and owned?
http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/imag/Garrett_T3_T4.jpg
Garrett T3/T4 Hybrid 57 Trim
Compressor:
Trim: 57
A/R: 0.60
Turbine:
A/R: .48, .63 or .82 options
Wastegate: external

Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim Turbocharger .48 A/R - MRSP $893.11 Sale $695.00 USD
Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim Turbocharger .48 A/R - MRSP $999.06 Sale $889.60 CAD
Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim Turbocharger .63 A/R - MRSP $893.11 Sale $695.00 USD
Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim Turbocharger .63 A/R - MRSP $999.06 Sale $889.60 CAD
Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim Turbocharger .82 A/R - MRSP $893.11 Sale $695.00 USD
Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim Turbocharger .82 A/R - MRSP $999.06 Sale $889.60 CAD

you over payed somewhere..maybe you do need my advice

make all the personal attacks you want man it only shows you have no argument to fall back on so you attack the person and not the idea. maybe you should read more books like i suggested prior.

and why are you making fun of my s13 chassis which last i checked was in production untill around 1999...far from a classic. no offense but you drive a once 15 second fwd grocery getter that you turned into a drag car.....you really don't have any room to be poking fun at people. this last retort of was almost offensive and clearly shows your maturity level. i guess when all else fails and you have nothing else to say you pull out the "how many hondas have you built" and the name calling. well let me ask you this, how many cars outside of honda have you personally owned/worked on that belonged to you? doesn't really matter though since a motor is a motor, nothing more than a glorified air pump even a rotary. how old are you?

lol @ the fwd car calling the rwd car worthless with no valid argument. :wink:

p.s. cars like mine s13 still go for 2500-3000 dollars in really nice condition stock to about 6000-8000 for a stock s14 in really nice condition. if either car has a clean stock sr swap you can add another 2000 onto each price tag.....and i never said i drifted so why bring it up in a sad attempt at an insult? i mentioned road courses and auto-x.......you know stuff that is more than just mashing the gas pedal in a straight line. maybe you should build something other than a big turbo 1/4 mile honda to understand that?

[BigWhiteTodd]

so my 98 gsr has 90k on it an alot of people are telling me i should boost it instead of building it more.

it pretty much stock, but if i set it to 7 or 8 psi im told id be fine

my question is, what exactly would i need, and how hard is install and about what would a tune run me. not looking to go nuts but just something to give a little more power..

So........

[redtoprps13]

So........

that's what i've been saying till somebody got e-butt hurt over me not likeing a 57 trim and wasted 2 pages of personal attacks without even reading the thread

op get a turbo that suits your needs whether it be a t3/to4e, 16g, or whatever. do some research on what type of power/power band you want and future goals. that will be the ideal setup

[BigWhiteTodd]

i think he should just buy a simple kit from ebay or make one him self cause its not to hard,since he is running a stock motor a t25 i think thats the size will do.

[redtoprps13]

i think he should just buy a simple kit from ebay or make one him self cause its not to hard,since he is running a stock motor a t25 i think thats the size will do.

a t25 will fall on it's face with a b18c1's top end. i would rather see him get a used gt28 for 300 bucks or a 14b, 16g whatever before a t25g.

[BigWhiteTodd]

well see im not reading, i didnt see it was for b18

[redtoprps13]

well see im not reading, i didnt see it was for b18yeah the owner has a stock 90K b18c1, they're only about 145hp with peak tq at 6000 rpms and peak hp at 7600 rpms. vtec at 4400 and butterflies open at 5750. my favorite of the b-series motors and trannys. of all the cars i've driven the gsr's has the smoothest shifting trannies. i've driven a type r which was marginally quicker than a stock gsr but nothing impressive. more aggressive gearing on the gsr would make up for a bit of that quickness but like i said the gsr tranny is my fav of the b-series trannies. no offense to anybody who owns one but i like to think that b16's don't even exist, they're just not my cup of tea. i'd rather take a b18b with some crower cams and gsr tranny over the b16