View Full Version : Question for people who know about turbo kits
CarbonIS
11-16-2005, 06:35 PM
I have no definite plans in the working, just waying my options...
I'll be getting a decently paying internship on Jan. 1 and the first thing i plan
on doing with the money is a turbo kit...
soooo.....
I don't know anything about them really, but i've been looking at different kits
from different companies, trying to see what is the best value and I need some help.
Here are the specs from the TurboEast S3 kit
IS300 Sport Turbo S3 Kit
The IS300 Sport Turbo S3 Kit is the place to be for a streetable serious horsepower beast with the lowered compression on the kit. You can expect up to *450 hp and *450 ft/lb of torque running 14psi. All kits include a Greddy Emanage with fuel and ignition control in addition to a TurboEast Piggyback Conditioner to eliminate factory ECU learning.
Includes
* TE Garrett T04E 60 Trim spec Turbocharger
* Large TE 24x8x3 Front mount intercooler (Core 17x9x3)
* Tial 38mm Wastegate
* TE Tubular Stainless Steel Manifold
* TurboEast Stainless Steel Downpipe
* TE Tuned Greddy E-Manage with Ignition, Pressure Sensor and harness
* 6 440cc Injectors
* 255lph Fuel Pump
* TE Piggyback Conditioner ECU
* TE 3" Race Pipe
* TE 2mm Low Compression Headgasket
* ARP Head Studs
* Intercooler Piping w/ bead rolled ends
* 4 Layer Silicone Couplers w/ Stainless Steel Lined Clamps
* TurboXS Blow-Off Valve
* 6 NGK 3330 Spark Plugs
* TE Open Element Air Filter
* All Fittings and Adapters
Price
$5995
Availability
Available now, email sales@turboeast.com for estimated time of delivery.
Options
* Automatic Transmission Valve Body Upgrade $495
* Automatic Transmission Cooler $155
* Pre-wired ECU Harness $325
* Pre-tapped Oil Pan $120
* Polished Piping $200
* Flat Black Pipe Coating $150
* Polished Finish Turbocharger $100
* Black Thermal Efficient Intercooler Coating $200
* High Flow 3" Catalytic Converter $250
* TE Manual Boost Controller $79
* Greddy E01 Boost Controller and Display $595
* Greddy Evo II Cat-back Exhaust $469
* Greddy E-Manage Software & Cable $129
* In house installation $1800
* Dyno Tuning $150 per hour
Here are the specs from the Swift Racing Stage 2/2.5 kit
SRT Stage 2/2.5 (Shippable Kit, usually ships in 2 weeks)
Stage 2 - 375 ~ 420 BHP
Stage 2.5 - 450 ~ 500 BHP
Kit Includes:
- SRT exclusive Divided Ductile Iron Cast Turbo Exhaust Manifold
- SRT Spec'd GT Series Turbo
- Wastegate
- Blitz® Super Sound Dual Drive blow-off valve
- Stainless Steel braided oil supply line with SRT exclusive oil supply Tee
- High Temp oil drain line
- AFE® high flow lifetime cone filter with built in velocity stack
- Haltech F10X Standalone Fuel Computer
- 3Bar Map Sensor
- 440cc Injectors (580cc optional)
- Walbro® 255lph High Pressure intank fuel pump
- Mandrel bent steel intercooler piping
- Huge 22.5"x12"x3" Front Mount Garrett® Intercooler rated at 650+HP
- 9PSI Maximum Boost Pump Gas (Stage 2)
- 15-17PSI Maximum Boost Pump Gas (Stage 2.5)
- High Temp silicone couplers and connectors
- High Temp Silicone Vacuum lines
- NGK Performance Iridium Spark Plugs, 1 step colder
- 3" Mandrel bent downpipe with built in Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter
- 3" Mandrel bent front midpipe
- All necessary hardware for a complete install is supplied
- Complete Step-by-Step Installation Instructions with High Quality Color
Pictures provided in CD-Rom
i feel like you could piece together a homebrew setup for half that price.
CarbonIS
11-16-2005, 07:26 PM
i would have no idea where to start
markley02
11-16-2005, 08:10 PM
Your car has an auto tranny? I have heard very very bad things about putting a lot of power to those tranny's. It is pretty much a given that you have to put a manual in it.
TurboTagTeam
11-16-2005, 08:53 PM
If you really want a bad Azz lexus, Swap out the wimpy stock motor(no offence) for a JZ80 from a twin turbo toyota supra. Then you will have the baddest car around. It's becoming a more common swap so parts are becoming more readily avalible. Plus once you have that bad boy in you'r car, you'll have an engine that can support up to 800whp on a stock bottom end! The kit that you pointed out is gonna cost you almost 8K installed.
That's a lot for a bolt-on kit. You may as well go all out and build a monster.
Btw- This is my dream car. I would love to see some one around here with one.
CarbonIS
11-16-2005, 08:53 PM
mine's a 5-speed, i just threw in all the options that the site had
2point4DSM
11-16-2005, 10:14 PM
Tubular manifolds make more power but are prone to cracking so I would go with the SRT exclusive Divided Ductile Iron Cast Turbo Exhaust Manifold.
Chair-Force
11-16-2005, 10:29 PM
Make sure you have enough money for when you blow up the engine or tranny.
CarbonIS
11-17-2005, 12:06 AM
my transmission can handle up to 500 and the engine is one of the if not the most resilient motors ever created
but please, keep taking shots at my car, and therefore at me
1988 Olds
11-17-2005, 12:33 AM
That just seems like so much money. Just get a 250 shot and be done with it. But dude it will look so sweet with the Twin Turbo's on it. Lots and Lots of work but it's worth it.
i would have no idea where to start
use those kits as a guide. You find a manifold (possibly a similiar motor that came turbo maybe? i dont know anything about those motors) and a turbo you like or one that mates to your manifold. after that it's a matter of fuel management and some lines. of course thats super simplified but..you get it!
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 01:06 AM
Tubular manifolds make more power but are prone to cracking so I would go with the SRT exclusive Divided Ductile Iron Cast Turbo Exhaust Manifold.
depends who and how they make it
also greddy emanage is a terrible management system.
go with aem ems
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 01:11 AM
depends who and how they make it
Haha, we talked about this already and I looked into it again afterwards and came up with the same conclusion. The best built tubular manifold is still only going to last 1/10 compared to the best built cast manifold. There just isn't enough meat for a tubular to hold together as well.
But I definitely agree with AEM EMS being the best bet. Not sure if it is availble for your car though. If it is then forget about the other standalone systems.
ayim01
11-17-2005, 01:11 AM
my transmission can handle up to 500 and the engine is one of the if not the most resilient motors ever created
but please, keep taking shots at my car, and therefore at meyou have no idea where to start fabricating a turbo set-up, yet you already know your motor is the most resilient and that your tranny can take 500. you must've done your homework. Also, just because someone criticizes your car, you therefor assume they're criticizing you? I wonder what you do when people say you have bad hair....T_T
ayim01
11-17-2005, 01:13 AM
But I definitely agree with AEM EMS being the best bet. Not sure if it is availble for your car though. If it is then forget about the other standalone systems.The AEM EMS is for almost every available import car. They have a direct plug in harness for sale over at mvpmotorsports.com, specifically for the is300.
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 01:19 AM
Haha, we talked about this already and I looked into it again afterwards and came up with the same conclusion. The best built tubular manifold is still only going to last 1/10 compared to the best built cast manifold. There just isn't enough meat for a tubular to hold together as well.
But I definitely agree with AEM EMS being the best bet. Not sure if it is availble for your car though. If it is then forget about the other standalone systems.
i partially agree, but there are some manifolds i'd seen that withstood alot of abuse
WhiteXFire
11-17-2005, 01:21 AM
I'd say he has done quite a bit of HW because he has been talking about this for over a year. However, that doesn't necessarily give him the knowledge to piece together a setup on his own (which I agree would be the best idea). But, the whole point of this thread is to get feedback from people who are more knowledgeable, and MAYBE this time he'll actually get enough together to make this into reality.
ayim01
11-17-2005, 01:30 AM
i partially agree, but there are some manifolds i'd seen that withstood alot of abusebunch of my friends that are mechs at sloane honda have cast and tubular. once the car wheelhops, it cracks. the power difference between the cast and tubular was negligent. although the tubulars do show larger flow rates.
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 01:39 AM
bunch of my friends that are mechs at sloane honda have cast and tubular. once the car wheelhops, it cracks.
Which one are you saying cracks when they wheelhop, tubular or cast? And who are your friends with turbo Hondas. Bring them out to the meet :)
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 01:45 AM
bunch of my friends that are mechs at sloane honda have cast and tubular. once the car wheelhops, it cracks. the power difference between the cast and tubular was negligent. although the tubulars do show larger flow rates.
i've had no problems with my tubular manifold
i bet you're friends own an ssautochrome/obx manifold which crack since its like 16 gauge steel
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 01:50 AM
i've had no problems with my tubular manifold
How many hard 1/4 mile runs have you put on it.
Also, when am I going to see your car at the new place? I'd like to take a look at that manifold again since I forget what it looks like.
How thick are the walls in your manifold?
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 01:53 AM
How many hard 1/4 mile runs have you put on it.
Also, when am I going to see your car at the new place? I'd like to take a look at that manifold again since I forget what it looks like.
How thick are the walls in your manifold?
i know its schedule 10 stainless steel
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/280589/5
i might be there sooner than you think... (by the end of the year :o )
WhiteXFire
11-17-2005, 01:59 AM
So, how about those turbo IS300's...
CarbonIS
11-17-2005, 02:03 AM
you have no idea where to start fabricating a turbo set-up, yet you already know your motor is the most resilient and that your tranny can take 500. you must've done your homework. Also, just because someone criticizes your car, you therefor assume they're criticizing you? I wonder what you do when people say you have bad hair....T_T
knowing how much power the motor and tranny can handle is not really on the same
level as knowing how to construct a turbo system
but yeah i guess i got offended a little too easy, just i put alot of time and energy
into the car and don't really appreciate non-constructive criticism
ayim01
11-17-2005, 02:11 AM
knowing how much power the motor and tranny can handle is not really on the same
level as knowing how to construct a turbo system
but yeah i guess i got offended a little too easy, just i put alot of time and energy
into the car and don't really appreciate non-constructive criticismyoure on an online forum. its guaranteed to happen :]
CarbonIS
11-17-2005, 02:14 AM
doesn't make it necessary
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 09:49 AM
The IS300 Sport Turbo S3 Kit is the place to be for a streetable serious horsepower beast with the lowered compression on the kit.
just wondering, but how does a turbo kit lower compression :bigeek:
anyways, i'd say fab up your own kit ;)
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 09:58 AM
Here are the specs from the TurboEast S3 kit IS300 Sport Turbo S3 Kit
Includes:
* TE Garrett T04E 60 Trim spec Turbocharger
* Large TE 24x8x3 Front mount intercooler (Core 17x9x3)
* Tial 38mm Wastegate
* TE Tubular Stainless Steel Manifold
* TurboEast Stainless Steel Downpipe
* TE Tuned Greddy E-Manage with Ignition, Pressure Sensor and harness
* 6 440cc Injectors
* 255lph Fuel Pump
* TE Piggyback Conditioner ECU
* TE 3" Race Pipe
* TE 2mm Low Compression Headgasket
* ARP Head Studs
* Intercooler Piping w/ bead rolled ends
* 4 Layer Silicone Couplers w/ Stainless Steel Lined Clamps
* TurboXS Blow-Off Valve
* 6 NGK 3330 Spark Plugs
* TE Open Element Air Filter
* All Fittings and Adapters
Price
$5995
I'm not sure how thick the stock headgasket is but I'm guessing it's 1.5mm or thinner. So sticking a thicker headgasket in there will make more room in the combustion chamber and therefore lower compression. Very common.
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 10:15 AM
For headgasket choices you can simply go with Greddy, HKS, or Cometic (probably half the price of the other two). And of course stick with ARP fasteners.
Instead of a walbro pump stick a Toyota Supra pump in there instead. Those pumps are good for up to 600hp and are much more reliable than the walbro pumps (also known as wal-blo pump, wal-mart pump, etc.). Walbros usually cost about $100, and the Supra pump cost about $200. I don't like to skimp on pumps.
You can even get RC engineering injectors for your car. They would be on the lower end. Again Denso would be the proper set for your car. And if you did enough homework you might find them off another car for much cheaper. (Here goes some help with that http://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.htm) For example DSMs come with 450cc injectors that most people practically give away. If they fit and are of similar impedence then you could save several hundred right there. Check to see what the part number is on your injectors. They are usually located on the top and printed with 1mm sized numbers.
As long as you get the manifold and turbo all the other stuff is pretty easy. Most of the vendors on here could easily fill in the rest. IC pipes can be welded together using mandrel bent pieces or just press bent at an exhaust shop. Then get flanges for the turbo so you can make your own downpipe and wastegate dump. Considering your dad owns a body shop I'm sure you guys know people who can weld or bend metal, lol.
IC choices are numerous. You can even grab one off a Supra turbo if you like. Seriously, you aren't like most people on here who have to find a kit that fits their car perfectly cause I'm assuming your dad could probably make anything work on your car. That alone should cut the price of this build up by a few thousand. And then you can concentrate on tuning and take it to a reputable dyno tuning facility.
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 10:29 AM
Thanks i didn't see the headgasket included
For example DSMs come with 450cc injectors that most people practically give away.
you know they sell for 50-70 bucks a set on honda forums right? :wink:
anyways Will is right.
your father works at a bodyshop... that should have a welder.
the three most important things are manifold, turbo, and the tune, so make sure to invest in those.
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 10:58 AM
i would have no idea where to start
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm
:)
Page 3 gives you a nice simple schematic. Of course your motor might look a little different.
teh DIRT
11-17-2005, 11:00 AM
when i first got into cars 6 years ago...how stuff works was my god.
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 11:08 AM
And like you said, Toyota motors and trannys are pretty awesome to start. I bet you could get away with just running low boost on a stock motor. Just get colder plugs gapped a little smaller and make sure to cut timing back a few degrees when boost kicks in.
Your stock plugs are: BKR6E-11 Part number 2756 gapped to .044.
When you get a turbo: BKR7E-11 gapped to .032" would be ideal. (and I'm not sure of the part number)
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 11:23 AM
And like you said, Toyota motors and trannys are pretty awesome to start. I bet you could get away with just running low boost on a stock motor. Just get colder plugs gapped a little smaller and make sure to cut timing back a few degrees when boost kicks in.
Your stock plugs are: BKR6E-11 Part number 2756 gapped to .044.
When you get a turbo: BKR7E-11 gapped to .032" would be ideal. (and I'm not sure of the part number)
is your toyota motor map or maf?
either way you will have to run something to control air in boost.
anyways that is the correct part number.
bkr7e (no -11) do not come pregapped and also provide a v power tip
I gap mine to .025"
teh DIRT
11-17-2005, 11:26 AM
is your toyota motor map or maf?
either way you will have to run something to control air in boost.
anyways that is the correct part number.
bkr7e (no -11) do not come pregapped and also provide a v power tip
I gap mine to .025"
gm 2 bar map
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 11:55 AM
Awesome! The car was already meant to be turboed, lol.
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 11:58 AM
Awesome! The car was already meant to be turboed, lol.
lol
its funny to hear toyota puts gm 2 bars in....
anyways the ecu still prolly won't respond well to boost, so it's best to get some good fuel management like aem ems
teh DIRT
11-17-2005, 12:12 PM
toyota doesnt use the gm 2 bar.....aftermarket users use that to read boost. its cheap and readily available.
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 12:17 PM
toyota doesnt use the gm 2 bar.....aftermarket users use that to read boost. its cheap and readily available.
oh now i got ya...
i use a gm 3bar ;)
also keep in mind when you change to a larger map you need to scale down your fuel maps to accomodate for the changes.
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 12:25 PM
I've got a GM 3 bar, too. It's hooked up to my Crane Ignition Amp so it retards timing dependent on boost.
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 12:34 PM
I've got a GM 3 bar, too. It's hooked up to my Crane Ignition Amp so it retards timing dependent on boost.
my ecu tune retards in boost.
http://uploads.honda-rally.com//files/1/james-low-cam-ign.JPG
http://uploads.honda-rally.com//files/1/james-high-cam-ign.JPG
2point4DSM
11-17-2005, 12:51 PM
Nice!
You sure do run a lot of retard, lol.
igo4bmx
11-17-2005, 12:58 PM
Nice!
You sure do run a lot of retard, lol.
i love teh retard
anthracite93
11-21-2005, 05:15 PM
Billy,
Let me know if you need help or have any questions...although i'm not vvt-i I have amassed a wealth of information regarding the turboing of a GE engine. I could tell you where to go to put together your own kit the most cost efficient way. Also, I would suggest a single turbo setup rather than a twin...just easier and you can produce the same power with a single. (a majority of TT guys upgrade to singles on their cars) And don't let these guys get to you...this engine is one of the most stout and properly engineered engines built to date, and will handle just about whatever you throw its way. There is a guy by the name of Dave Henry who has built the 2jz-GE engine up to around 900 whp...not stock bottom end but you get the point. The tranny like you said before will be reliable up to 500 whp ... but i wouldn't recommend it...and i'm sure people will say well throw a stage 4 clutch in there etc. but you have to remember that the stronger the clutch, the less force that will endure/absorb and in turn will drive the transmission to make up for the lack of impact absorption from the clutch...so i find that it has worked best for others to slightly upgrade the clutch and replace it a bit more often than going crazy with a hardcore clutch and blowing the tranny.
Jim
CarbonIS
11-21-2005, 05:47 PM
yeah I'd like to get together to go over this stuff, I'm hoping that i can start on
this so that MAYBE it can be done for SEMA Philly, not necessarily tuned, but at
least in there
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