Lesson Learned....

[Buster]

I've been using Royal Purple 5-30 for a very long time. I liked it because it lasted alot longer in my car than the Mobil 1 did. I needed to do my oil change and I was a decent amount of miles over my oil change so I used what I could today. Castrol Syntec.... I should have just whipped my dick out and peed in the filler. My car idles rough and feels pretty weak compared to how it normally feels. John Force is a ****ing liar!

This is going to be a long wait.

[Vypurr]

I am a big fan of mobile 1 5w30, I even dipped into 0w40 for the winter and have had no ill-effects, and no reason to change.

[TROLL]

Oil should definitely not affect any feeling of the car in any way, I think it might be a placebo effect for you for some reason. Regardless if you want to change your oil again, go for it... you dont have to wait for anything.

[Buster]

you could be right bryan. You very well could be. I was about 500 miles over my oil change of 3k. Thats too high for me. I change my oil almost to the mile.

Will, I used to run only M1 in my cars but ever since I switched to RP it just last much longer. But after doing some reading M1 and RP arent much different than eachother. But then the Syntec is also getting good reviews but only as a 0-40. I put 5-30 like always. I dont know much about oil and how it is affected by what types of cars or weather so if someone wants to chime in please do.

[Vypurr]

Here's some insight courtesy of Wikipedia

The Society of Automotive Engineers, usually abbreviated as SAE, has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their kinematic viscosity. SAE viscosity gradings include the following: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. Some of the numbers can be suffixed with the letter W, designating their "winter" or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature.

Viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperature. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity, and thus higher SAE code.
Note that the SAE operate a separate viscosity rating system for transmission oils which should not be confused with engine oil viscosity. The higher numbers of a transmission oil (eg 75W-140) do not mean that it is necessarily higher viscosity than an engine oil.

Single-grade
For single-grade oils, the kinematic viscosity is measured at a reference temperature of 100°C (212°F) in units of mm²/s or the equivalent older non-SI units, centistokes (abbreviated cSt). Based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in at that temperature, the oil is graded as an SAE number 0, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60. The higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE grade number is. These numbers are often referred to as the weight of a motor oil. The reference temperature is meant to approximate the operating temperature to which motor oil is exposed in an engine.

The viscosity of single-grade oil derived from petroleum unimproved with additives changes considerably with temperature. As the temperature increases, the viscosity of the oil decreases logarithmically in a relatively predictable manner. On single-grade oils, viscosity testing can be done at cold, winter (W) temperature (as well as checking minimum viscosity at 100°C or 212°F) to grade an oil as SAE number 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. A single-grade oil graded at the hot temperature is expected to test into the corresponding grade at the winter temperature; i.e. a 10 grade oil should correspond to a 10W oil. For some applications, such as when the temperature ranges in use are not very wide, single-grade motor oil is satisfactory; for example, lawn mower engines, and vintage or classic cars.

Multi-grade
The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold ambient temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. A specific oil will have high viscosity when cold and a low viscosity at the engine's operating temperature. The difference in viscosities for any single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIs are added to the oil. These additives make the oil a multi-grade motor oil. The idea is to cause the multi-grade oil to have the viscosity of the base number when cold and the viscosity of second number when hot. This enables one type of oil to be generally used all year, and when multi-grades were initially developed, they were frequently described as all-season oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.

The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. Historically, the first number associated with the W (again 'W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W" and "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. This "classic" method of defining the "W" rating has since been replaced with a more technical test where a "cold crank simulator" is used at increasingly lowered temps. A 0W oil is tested at −35 °C (−31 °F), a 5W at −30 °C (−22 °F) and a 10W is tested at −25 °C (−13 °F). The real-world ability of an oil to crank in the cold is diminished soon after put into service. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle (although some modern European cars now make no viscosity requirement), but can vary from country to country when climatic or mpg constraints come into play.

[SovXietday]

I HIGHLY doubt putting Castrol in the car killed it, lol. It's not like it's acid and eats your bearings, oil is oil until you start driving the car hard.

[Buster]

thank you Slick Willy.

Upon more reading Syntec is getting awesome reviews.

[Buster]

I HIGHLY doubt putting Castrol in the car killed it, lol. It's not like it's acid and eats your bearings, oil is oil until you start driving the car hard.


I dont think it killed it lol, I just think it feels like crap. Ill give it a few days

[SovXietday]

I use Castrol GTX in the Honder, never use anything else actually. :) I don't see why Syntec would be any worse.

[i like rice]

Mobil 1 is way over-rated for extended use. I get my oil analyzed and Mobil 1 does not do well compared to the same test results against Amsoil. I don't have my previous tests scanned but here is the latest Mobil 1 test I had done on the MSM: Link (http://asianguywithacamera.com/temp/oil_analysis_april2008_miata.PDF)

I prefer Amsoil and would've run it from the start but I put in Mobil 1 to do a base comparison. For $20-25/test, it's worth the money to determine which oil is best for your vehicle.

[TROLL]

There was a thread on clubwrx a long time ago about a guy who used Mobil 1 5w30 and a Purolator PureOne filter... he had an oil analysis done at 5k, everything was great. He had an oil analysis done at 7k, things were still excellent. He had an oil analysis done at 9k, and the results showed the oil was fine to continued to be used for at least another 1 to 2k miles without compromising a thing.

Of course that is the short version, he presented all of the test results and a lot of good information which really changed my way of thinking about oil changes. If you want to do it every 3k then more power to you, but I dont thikn there's anything to worry about by going longer. I know oil is the blood of the engine and is so important, but I have no hesitations to change every 5k miles with quality synthetic oil and a quality filter.

[Buster]

That being said, I use only Subaru oil filters and since 9k its been 100% synthetic. A majority of the oil changes were M1 until the last year or so when I started using Royal Purple. I think you are right though Bryan, it probably is a placebo lol and I'll be fine.

[Buster]

Well I finally hit 3k miles the other day, I went and checked the oil and from 2k on its been slowly using more and more. I actually had to add some oil. I'm doing the oil change this week but Its getting more Royal Purple. I think my turbo is eating the oil though.

[Scapegoat]

There was a thread on clubwrx a long time ago about a guy who used Mobil 1 5w30 and a Purolator PureOne filter... he had an oil analysis done at 5k, everything was great. He had an oil analysis done at 7k, things were still excellent. He had an oil analysis done at 9k, and the results showed the oil was fine to continued to be used for at least another 1 to 2k miles without compromising a thing.

Of course that is the short version, he presented all of the test results and a lot of good information which really changed my way of thinking about oil changes. If you want to do it every 3k then more power to you, but I dont thikn there's anything to worry about by going longer. I know oil is the blood of the engine and is so important, but I have no hesitations to change every 5k miles with quality synthetic oil and a quality filter.

good to know... i don't usually change my oil until my car tells me too... usually around 5k the light comes on. I use mobil 1 and pureone filters...

[superskaterxes]

M1 is the bose of speakers. its just a name that everyone knows. i do UOA reports at every change and i im getting twice the life and quality out of my rotella 5w-40 then i ever did with M1.

[Elliott18t]

I get M1 5w40. But then again I have to get 502 or wtvr approved oil. :mad: silly euro cars.

[Buster]

M1 is the bose of speakers. its just a name that everyone knows. i do UOA reports at every change and i im getting twice the life and quality out of my rotella 5w-40 then i ever did with M1.

Where do you get Rotella at? Ive been looking and never see it anywhere.

[ndubz]

Dude, u do realize that synthetic oil can easily last like 4 or 5k miles? I mean if u just like to change every 3k on the dot thts ur deal, but its not absolutely necessary.

Just some friendly advice from someone who ud like to throw off a cliff. :thumbup:

[Vr-4-Life]

ndubz you dont even change your own oil! lol

[ndubz]

I did when I had the stuff, but my driveway is on an incline. So i let nick help me out, cuz he works at Pep Boys (a trusted name in automotive service)

[ThePrimerSuspect]

good to know... i don't usually change my oil until my car tells me too... usually around 5k the light comes on. I use mobil 1 and pureone filters...

wait.....what? in the neon? if your talking about the red oil light then theres a problem dude.

[Nick Merrone]

I use Castrol GTX in the Honder, never use anything else actually. :) I don't see why Syntec would be any worse.

same...when my brother drove my car for a week...before he ruined the trans..he said it drove nice..i changed the oil, the day i got it..castrol GTX. syntec or one of those things haha

[Scapegoat]

wait.....what? in the neon? if your talking about the red oil light then theres a problem dude.

ssshhhh

[russiankid]

I use Castrol GTX and don't have any issues. In the summer I use diesel oil.

[arkadyzv]

M1 is the bose of speakers. its just a name that everyone knows. i do UOA reports at every change and i im getting twice the life and quality out of my rotella 5w-40 then i ever did with M1.
Ditto, great thread on the legacygt.com about M1 and Rotella.

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105302

Where do you get Rotella at? Ive been looking and never see it anywhere.

I just switched to Rotella last oil change, Auto Zone had it for 18 bucks a gallon which is a damn good price compared to Mobile 1 which has gone up and up recently. Make sure you get the new bottle, there's a picture of it in the thread above. Actually now that I think about it Advance Auto also had it, last time I was at the one on Bustleton across the street from the police station.

[PoorMan'sR]

rotella is good ****, its what i've been using, walmart sells it

[DPancoast]

I use Mobil 1. In my old N/A MR2, I'd sometimes go 4-5,000 miles and it would still come out fine.

With the new car though.... on a fresh rebuild. I'll be more careful haha.

[lagos]

The best engine oil in the world is the one you change regularly.

[dragonfly2k3]

I have a few things to say here, so lets get rollin.

On the oil analysis - This is a common practice in aviation and i once knew a guy who forget to get a sample for the owner at change, his DOM told him to come up wth one, so he got one out of the waste oil drum. Now this is a drum that is full of waste oil of all kinds, and even some non-oil products. The analysis came back pretty damn good actually, so who knows.

On the synthetic thing, didnt a few companies do tests and run their oil for well over 50k miles recently? Now obviously the filter has to be changed, but i could have sworn that there was a few of the higher end synthetic companies running tests like that.

[thunder_lizard]

I've been running Castrol Syntec 5W-30 in my 07 WRX since about 24K...the car always feels a bit weird right after a change, but that usually goes away after a day or two.. figure it's the ECM getting used to the 'new' oil (?!). I get a 5 quart jug at Wally World for around $25, and a Fram filter for about $4. I personally feel that if you drive your car that hard/ track it, then a high end synthetic like M1/ Royal Purple might be worth it..if you run plain old Dino oil, it's the same no matter what brand; it's the additives that make it what it is..Synthetics on the other hand; you do tend to get what you pay for, in terms of miles per change, wear resistance/ protection, and especially anti corrosive properties.. but it all comes down to personal choice..

I personally loved the Rotella T (15W-40 ftw!) in my diesel Rabbit/ Golf, but I've yet been able to find it in the 5W-40 anywhere local :confused:

Just an old dinosaurs' $0.02

[FazdaGt]

my car eats a quart of mobil1 every 2K miles.

when i bought the car i'm fairly sure it had crap oil in it, the engine runs much quieter since i've started using m1

[Ace]

M1 is the bose of speakers. its just a name that everyone knows. i do UOA reports at every change and i im getting twice the life and quality out of my rotella 5w-40 then i ever did with M1.

Lemme guess? You use Blackstone :roll:

Rotella is a diesel truck grade oil for the new low sulfer engines. It's designed to go 10,000-20,000 between changes. (obviously more capacitiy, but that's a truck service). It's good stuff, but it's intent is for trucks. Does that imply it's bad for cars? No. But I will still go buy what they are designed for.

Where do you get Rotella at? Ive been looking and never see it anywhere.

WalMart, Truck Stop, Truck anything really.

Ditto, great thread on the legacygt.com about M1 and Rotella.
gallon which is a damn good price compared to Mobile 1 which has gone up and up recently. Make sure you get the new bottle, there's a picture of it in

Mobil 1 is always like 20-25 for 5 quarts at WalMart...at least over the past 5-6 years that I can remember. I've only ever used it in my turbo cars.

On the oil analysis - This is a common practice in aviation and i once knew a guy who forget to get a sample for the owner at change, his DOM told him to come up wth one, so he got one out of the waste oil drum. Now this is a drum that is full of waste oil of all kinds, and even some non-oil products. The analysis came back pretty damn good actually, so who knows.


You beat me too it. Anyone that's an Army Mechanic (I believe the same aapplies to all services) should know about the AOAP. We knew some other shops that STRICTLY followed that, and did few to no oil changes throughout the year, and also had many engine failures. We on the other hand, changed the oil every 1000 miles...heck the stuff we used was black water to start, and was just darker water when it came out...wasn't worth the risk in our eyes. Screw service schedules, we wanted to keep our stuff up.


The key to keeping a motor happy (or at least an abused one) is regular maintanance and consistant oil changes (in terms of brand/type/regularity). 9/10 times, people pick a brand that they 'like' (namely due to advertising I think), stick with it, claim it's the best, use it forever, and never have any problems...

...don't get me wrong, I understand some oils are 'better' than others, and all that jazz, but for the majority of those on this forum, they own street cars or daily drivers...all of which have the same oil needs as their mom's Camry's lol.

[Buster]

Im going to give redline a shot, JSC and PSI both have it for about $9 a quart. Its going to be expensive but Ive been meaning to try it out. I was more than happy with RP but its almost $9 a quart also so if I have to pay big money for oil I would rather try something new.

[CHAOS]

i didnt read some of the comments because they seemed abit long winded.. however... perhaps its not the oil but the act of changing the oil and loosening things in there to cause it to run weird.

[Buster]

I think Bryan wa right, I wouldnt normally put something cheap in my car thus causing a placebo effect on me. It wasnt a big deal. I just felt bad for putting something I thought was crap into my car. It ran fine, It just used at least a quart.

[xEJ20x]

I am a big fan of mobile 1 5w30, I even dipped into 0w40 for the winter and have had no ill-effects, and no reason to change.

As soon as I put that in my car 5 years ago...I haven't looked back.

[Kiel]

I've just switched from Castrol Syntec to Rotella T 5w40 and so far so good. Cheaper, too. And it comes in a fun new blue container.