Looking for oil opions/suggestions/tips/advise

[ThatTealHatch]

ok so im getting close to my break-in period being up. ive notcied that i am deff not using mobil 1 5w-30 in the long term. It seems the heat my set-up generates just breaks down the oil. when i drained it, it was like black water. and that was after ~350 miles. so im trying to get some ideas here on what to use for the long run. The car is my DD as of now, and my plans were to use a heavier weight oil, full synthentic, with a qt of lucas oil treatment to take some of the heat abuse. I know RT has Motul and i was thinking about picking up some of that stuff. Just looking to see what you guys run and what success youve noticed with what. Look forward to this chat. kinda lookign for peoples advise who are boosted.

[SovXietday]

I run Castrol GTX 10w30. *shrug*

Haven't had a single issue.

[SvicksTc]

I use Royal Purple 5w-30 in my Boosted TC, i have read that a heavier weight may due better with the heat and breaking down, however, im quite confident that what im running is very suitable

[ThatTealHatch]

do either of you use any additives?

[CHAOS]

if y ou are breaking a motor in... typical thoughts are that you should be running organic/dino oil until complete. then switch to synthetic.

[ThatTealHatch]

yea im running regular 5w-30 now, i just saying when i break the 1k mark i wanna use synthetic before i go back for my final tune... im a fan of royal purple. but im curious if they make a 10w-40 or 5w-40?

[ThatTealHatch]

Sov any though of going to 10w-40 or using lucas oil treatment.? cause i dotn se ehow the 10w-30 makes a differnece to 5w-10 except for the starting visciousity or some ****. this subject has always baffeled me and thats why i made this post.

[delspool]

yea im running regular 5w-30 now, i just saying when i break the 1k mark i wanna use synthetic before i go back for my final tune... im a fan of royal purple. but im curious if they make a 10w-40 or 5w-40?

ive been using royal purple 10w30 in my built motor and have no complaints.

im 99% sure they make a 10w40 too

[ThatTealHatch]

either of you guys have a oil pressure gauge( i hope so), im just curious what your oil press is after getting on it for a little? ex. my car after it reaches normal operating temp. the oil press sit at 20psi or so. after i beat on it a little it sits at about ~15.

[russiankid]

I never had any problems with Catrol Syntec.

[ThatTealHatch]

I never had any problems with Catrol Syntec.

what weight, are you boosted?

[russiankid]

what weight, are you boosted?

I am not boosted, but I used 10w30. My moms car is boosted with Catrol Syntec 5w30(Acura RDX).

[ThatTealHatch]

yea i have access to that oil for free (i work at acura) but if something out there is better id rather pay now instead of later. acura uses mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic though not castrol

[delspool]

either of you guys have a oil pressure gauge( i hope so), im just curious what your oil press is after getting on it for a little? ex. my car after it reaches normal operating temp. the oil press sit at 20psi or so. after i beat on it a little it sits at about ~15.

that about what i had on mobil1 i think. right after i switched, my mechanical gauge decided the oil made more sense in the interior, so i took it out lol

[russiankid]

yea i have access to that oil for free (i work at acura) but if something out there is better id rather pay now instead of later. acura uses mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic though not castrol

I do the oil changes on the car and I use Castrol. I use Mobile 1 in my Accord but its not boosted or anything. It does have 162k.

[crexxy90]

In my boosted and built single cam i was running royal purple 10w30 with no problems i changed it every 2000 miles though, you can get royal purple anywhere from 0w30 to 20w50, my oil pressure would always sit rite at 20 psi after the engine was good and warm even if i was beating on it.

[CleanNeon98]

5w-30 in my car...then again its nowhere near yours on power

[Honduh]

I know all the older hondas always called for NON synthetic oil, I dunno about the new 2000+ stuff.

Also because I haven't seen it mentioned in here I will real quick.

When you read the vicousity on oil like 10w30. Its a 10 weight when COLD and when it warms up its a 30 weight. Many people seem to not know this and argue it to no end, but thats how it is.

[ThatTealHatch]

so i would want 5w-40 synthetic correct?

[redline]

Amsoil or Eneos Nippon! The other oils mentioned are rated under your Super Syn Mobil 1. If you are going to run Mobil 1, then run their EP and keep your intervals at 2-3K miles instead of the recommended change intervals. Also, please don't put that Lucas **** in your engine!

[redline]

so i would want 5w-40 synthetic correct?

In the winter yeah...or around that, in the summer 20w-50 if you have a built bottom end (not stock clearances). Eneos Nippon sells 5w-40 for about $9 a quart.

[ThatTealHatch]

Also, please don't put that Lucas **** in your engine!

enlighten me.

why do u recommend those 2 oils?

[redline]

I know all the older hondas always called for NON synthetic oil, I dunno about the new 2000+ stuff.

Also because I haven't seen it mentioned in here I will real quick.

When you read the vicousity on oil like 10w30. Its a 10 weight when COLD and when it warms up its a 30 weight. Many people seem to not know this and argue it to no end, but thats how it is.

I always thought that 10w-40 was a 40 weight at 10 degrees.

[ThatTealHatch]

In the winter yeah...or around that, in the summer 20w-50 if you have a built bottom end (not stock clearances). Eneos Nippon sells 5w-40 for about $9 a quart.

wait isnt that backwards? this stuff confuses me so much. why 20w-50 in the summer?

[Honduh]

All lucas is, is petroleum jelly. I would never put that in my BUILT motor. However I do put it in my 170k b17 for oil consumption purposes. lol

[igo4bmx]

for break in you should be using non detergent 30 weight

[Honduh]

I always thought that 10w-40 was a 40 weight at 10 degrees.

Yeah a lot of people think that oil gets thin when it warms up. But its very untrue. Its a 10 weight when cold to promote oil flow at cold temperatures and thickens up as it gets warmer to protect that engine.

[ThatTealHatch]

for break in you should be using non detergent 30 weight

got it.


im talking about after the break-in period

[ThatTealHatch]

Yeah a lot of people think that oil gets thin when it warms up. But its very untrue. Its a 10 weight when cold to promote oil flow at cold temperatures and thickens up as it gets warmer to protect that engine.

so honduh what would you recommend to use in my car. built bottom end. and i want a decent weight oil that isnt goign to break down under high heat

[Honduh]

Here is some reading for the non believers/misinformed. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

[redline]

Yeah a lot of people think that oil gets thin when it warms up. But its very untrue. Its a 10 weight when cold to promote oil flow at cold temperatures and thickens up as it gets warmer to protect that engine.

Seriously I am second guessing myself on my post above but it was what I always thought was true.

For the weights and oils posted above comes from track proven results on built engines that have stood the test of time. For the money no one comes close to Amsoil (and Blackstone Labs analysis) can back that up from many top performers running it. In Japan all the big guys run Eneos Nippon. Just go with Amsoil and be happy.

[Honduh]

so honduh what would you recommend to use in my car. built bottom end. and i want a decent weight oil that isnt goign to break down under high heat

Honestly man I don't use synthetic oils in my hondas. If I had a built motor I'd run 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter, and maybe if i built a motor loose to find some extra hp id use a 40 warm weight. And for brand I'd use penns oil just because that is what I have always used.

[igo4bmx]

so honduh what would you recommend to use in my car. built bottom end. and i want a decent weight oil that isnt goign to break down under high heat

i personally had 10w-30 on my single cam and didn't have any issues besides vapors from the big piston to wall clearance.

[ThatTealHatch]

hmmm.

[SovXietday]

Sov any though of going to 10w-40 or using lucas oil treatment.? cause i dotn se ehow the 10w-30 makes a differnece to 5w-10 except for the starting visciousity or some ****. this subject has always baffeled me and thats why i made this post.

I was thinking about bumping up to a 40 in the summer next year, only because my seals tend to leak a bit and when it's really really hot out the oil tends to get just a bit thinner than I want. But yeah, with 10w30 on an 80* weather day my car will make 95psi of oil pressure WOT @ 8500, I find no reason to run anything thicker. ~15psi at idle, but I'm idling at 750.

I don't run synthetic. I have seen quite a few post HPDE event analysis' between non synthetic and synthetic oil samples (specifically Castrol GTX and Amsoil mostly) and they are almost identical. This engine has been running Castrol GTX from day one, I've been driving it for over a year now, beating the hell out of it. I don't really have any issues that would warrant me to think twice about putting it in.

Oh, and as far as break in period goes. This engine saw about 8 miles before I did my first 130mph pull at 10psi. Changed the oil after 50 miles, never looked back.

[ThatTealHatch]

so basically synthetic isnt that much diff from reg?

[redline]

so basically synthetic isnt that much diff from reg?

Yes it is! Not that Dino oil won't work, but seriously take the time and search for the results. Hands down it's 10 times better for your engine. It's not just a fad.

[ThatTealHatch]

if you guys have any links for info id be more then glad to check em out

[SovXietday]

I'm not saying regular oil is better by any means, I'm just saying... well, read.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2331709

Note* - I change my oil a LOT. Like every 500 miles a lot.

[Metal4all6]

Seriously I am second guessing myself on my post above but it was what I always thought was true.

For the weights and oils posted above comes from track proven results on built engines that have stood the test of time. For the money no one comes close to Amsoil (and Blackstone Labs analysis) can back that up from many top performers running it. In Japan all the big guys run Eneos Nippon. Just go with Amsoil and be happy.

Amsoil FTW. I run their 0w30 SSO in my Evo. The Mazda gets Mobil 1 5w20.

[redline]

Amsoil FTW. I run their 0w30 SSO in my Evo.

As well you should the SSO is the ****!

[ThatTealHatch]

Sov even after reading that, im still up in the air. i dunno. ive decided against the oil additive though. now i just need to narrow down the weight and brand of oil i want to use. and weather or not syn or non

[redline]

Sov even after reading that, im still up in the air. i dunno. ive decided against the oil additive though. now i just need to narrow down the weight and brand of oil i want to use. and weather or not syn or non

Dude, seriously search all the numerous lab datas on the interent and decide for yourself. I am positive you will end up with an affordable oil called "Amsoil".

[delspool]

this is a pretty good article on the differences

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

[ThatTealHatch]

this is a pretty good article on the differences

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

ill check it out when i get out of work. blocked from everything here :/

[SovXietday]

Sov even after reading that, im still up in the air. i dunno. ive decided against the oil additive though. now i just need to narrow down the weight and brand of oil i want to use. and weather or not syn or non

Just use 10w30, you really won't need to go any heavier. As far as syn or not, that all depends on how deep your pockets, how hard you plan on driving the car, and how often you want to change the oil.

[ThatTealHatch]

pockets arent deep, but id rathe rbe safe then sorry. im daily driving it as of now, spirited here and there. oil change every 1500 or so

[evo9mr]

Pennzoil makes a 5w40 full syn.

[smelly240]

ive now gone to the darks side of the GC Castrol... its from germany - and smells wierd like candy

the 0w30 is thicker than most 40's... bobistheoilguy.com check it out (good luck finding it i bought 15 quarts last time i found it)

[92dxman]

+1 for bobistheoilguy.com. Great site to learn all there is regarding motor oil. I'm going to recommend Rotella 10w-30. A couple guys over there have run it in their boosted Subies and the analysis came back with no problem. If you really want to go with a synthetic, there is a Rotella 5w-40 synthetic that is cheaper than Mobil 1 and Amsoil and is pretty robust.