Calling all KA-T's...*now with pics*

[twastheglow]

I wanted to get in touch with everyone on here who has, or has had, a KA-T. I'm going to be installing mine at the end of this month and I have some questions for anyone who has some KA-T knowledge.

As some of you may have read, I'm installing a BB T28. My question is, what have you guys used when plumbing coolant to the turbo? As in what kind of lines/connections? I know most people tee off right next to the throttle body, but what kind of lines do you use and what exactly do you use to connect them? Pics are always welcome...not just of that, but your engine bay/turbo set-ups in general.

Thanks for any input.

[twastheglow]

Come on...I know there are at least a couple people on here rocking a boosted KA...

[OPZ]

Give me 1,500 and I will be a lot sooner then I am now...

[s14drftstn]

On some (kits) like the one I had only ran oil...I nkow what your thinking.
Now I have seen this...But Only in a pic...A line to A adapter in the upper and lower rad hoses. Or tap it.

[twastheglow]

I actually ended up finding what I was looking for over at ka-t.org. I've been a member over there for a lot longer than here. lol I just wanted to see what people on this site were running. Not to mention I wanted to start a thread specific to local KA-T's so we can ask questions, share pictures and general information among other members.

[jdmwill]

i got a little experience doing ka-t let me know so i could help you.:mrgreen:

[twistedlanes]

hit the chat will lol

[twastheglow]

I have most everything on lockdown right now. I think it's all under control. Do you have any advice or recommendations for me? I'm going to be doing this on July 26th/27th. I think I'll have it done in 2 days if not 1. I've researched doing this for the last 3 years and have my last couple questions answered. I just need to order a couple fittings for my coolant lines, a gasket and a down pipe and I'll be ready to go. But thank you for offering your help. I really appreciate it! That and all the help I've already received from other people as well (240sxdann).

[ilovecoupes]

the places you could tap for a coolant source would be from on of the coolant lines of the intake manifold or from the heater core.

and im pretty sure you need a restricted for BB turbos.

Im wondering, why you are going with only a t28? If i had a KA i would at least go with a t3. guys with SR's go bigger than that.

What kind of engine management are you running?

[twastheglow]

the places you could tap for a coolant source would be from on of the coolant lines of the intake manifold or from the heater core.

and im pretty sure you need a restricted for BB turbos.

Im wondering, why you are going with only a t28? If i had a KA i would at least go with a t3. guys with SR's go bigger than that.

What kind of engine management are you running?

Do you mean a restrictor for the oil feed? I'm using a this turbo because I got a really good deal on a BB T28...so I just couldn't refuse. Then I had it fully rebuilt/balanced and ported. I'm planning on getting my feet wet with this set up for now and work out any bugs. When it feels slow again, I'll just buy a different turbo/manifold. I'm going to be running a ROM tune from EFI Specialist. I just shipped it out today to have it tuned to 550cc injectors with Z32 MAF.

[NickS]

I'd look on www.KA-T.org as well as www.nissanclub.com

[twastheglow]

I'd look on www.KA-T.org as well as www.nissanclub.com

Hey thanks for the suggestion. I actually mentioned on post 5 that I've been a member of ka-t.org for a couple years now. :mrgreen: I'm also a member of zilvia, freshalloy, nico etc. :thumbup: But joking aside, thank you. I appreciate the help I get from you guys.

[twastheglow]

^ I just realized you live in Endwell. Where at? I used to live off of Watson Blvd.

[pinkarrowsnow]

Hey man good luck haha I just ordered all of my KA-t parts last night haha stuff gets expensive so so fast its ridiculous. But yeah im going on vacation this week so when I get back I plan on starting my project cant wait. You rebuilding your engine or not?

[omgjacki]

Oooooooooh I forgot about freshalloy. Haven't been on there in a while.

[s14drftstn]

Dang Where did all the new ka-t guys come from???
I know some of us on here have had these foe a while but. Im startin to think they are now becoming more popular than sr or rb. And for good reason. On all the nissan spots its mostly ka-t related chat.....Now lets post them setups new or old, I know this will be good.

[Ace]

KA's are junk


for real.

Haha.


I've forever said on the Altima forums, that I'd love to see someone man up and do a t28 based setup on a stock KA....finally some people are, and now it's good to see others trying in RWD fashion.


(and before the ka-cult gangs up on me, I had a Turbo KA 4-5 years ago lol)

[twastheglow]

...ok...I'm confused by your post.

[Ace]

i'm saying, glad that someone is trying out a T28 on a ka

I hate the resonse of t3/t4's on them.

Ideal for me: Throw a 2871r .64 on there, and let her rip.

[twastheglow]

i'm saying, glad that someone is trying out a T28 on a ka

I hate the resonse of t3/t4's on them.

Ideal for me: Throw a 2871r .64 on there, and let her rip.

I think you're the 1st person I've heard say that. :bigeek: Everyone else is giving me **** for not going with something bigger. lol

[NickS]

Hey thanks for the suggestion. I actually mentioned on post 5 that I've been a member of ka-t.org for a couple years now. :mrgreen: I'm also a member of zilvia, freshalloy, nico etc. :thumbup: But joking aside, thank you. I appreciate the help I get from you guys.

Marne Ave near Main St. in Endwell, right by the fire station. Where are you in Binghamton? That's pretty sick. :supz:

[twastheglow]

I live in Endicott actually. lol

[NickS]

Nice nice! Come turbo my KA? Haha :-p

[Ace]

I think you're the 1st person I've heard say that. :bigeek: Everyone else is giving me **** for not going with something bigger. lol

Complete package > Big honkin turbo.

Don't get me wrong, big turbos are great, but KA's simply don't have the rev range to take full advantage of them IMO.

Obviously each setup is a big different but with a proper build (as in, decent manifold, JWT S1 cams, JWT ECU, 3" exhaust, and that 2871r .64), you should be able to crank out 300 hp at at one bar, and maybe 380+ at 19/20 psi.

Either way you go, the KA matches it's compressor map really well, so you should be delighted with a 3000 rpm spooler and some fun torque. Put a 4.40 diff out back and OH BOY time will happen.

Nice nice! Come turbo my KA? Haha :-p

www.altimas.net

Turbo Forum

good stuff in there :D

[frosti108]

sohc ftw. btw im running a water cooled T3 from the z31, although i only run oil to it. stock internal WG with a manual controller for 10lbs. also use 444cc, n60 mafs, e-mance rom tune, afc neo... lots of other ****. lemme know if u ever need help

http://photos.freshalloy.com/gallery/d/38998-1/ka24eshine.jpg

oh and btw. the T3 is fuggin perfect for a stock KA. spools very easy and pulls strong at 6-10 lbs. but i hear theyre good to atleast 18 lbs. but i wont be experimenting with that any time soon

[twastheglow]

Question...for the guys running an SR turbo outlet off the turbo, does the KA o2 sensor thread into the o2 bung just fine? Are they the same size?

[twastheglow]

And I don't mean the stock outlet. I mean an aftermarket one made to bolt to a T25/T28 then to a downpipe.

[Ace]

It should....most aftermarket SR elbows use the bigger bosch style sensor.

[twastheglow]

It should....most aftermarket SR elbows use the bigger bosch style sensor.

Cool. Thanks. I guess just to make sure I'll take the damn thing down to Advance Auto Parts and just have them get a KA o2 sensor off the shelf and check. :-p I guess that would make the most sense. I'm not sure why I didn't just think of doing that in the 1st place. lol

[ScubaSteve]

My advice to you is to take your time and make sure everything is done right and be prepared to spend more time than you thought you would on it if your not experienced. My build is on its third week :(

[twastheglow]

My advice to you is to take your time and make sure everything is done right and be prepared to spend more time than you thought you would on it if your not experienced. My build is on its third week :(

Well, that's my point. I want to make sure all my loose ends are tied up. That's why I'm getting every fitting, gasket, etc. together now. Making sure everything is all ready to go...so HOPEFULLY I'm less likely to run into a snag.

[Ace]

Instead of worrying about the o2, I would say that it wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up an aftermarket wideband setup, and use it's narrowband output feature to feed the ecu...

[twastheglow]

I already have a brand new UEGO I'm going to be running. But I was under the impression that I need to run my stock o2 sensor as well as the UEGO. I was going to have an o2 bung welded to my down pipe to accomodate the wideband. Can the UEGO run both?

[Ace]

Not sure if Uego can run both or not. I would assume so. You can certainly run both sensors if you wish too.

If you're already getting the 2nd bung welded in, I say go for it, and then plug it if you can't run both. You could always use that bung for something else (perhaps dyno log?)

[twastheglow]

Ok...I have a request guys. I need pics of where you KA-T guys ran vacuum for your wg, bov, and boost gauge/controller. I know you're supposed to run them from certain locations. Can anyone take some detailed shots of where they ran them from so I can check it out. I'm installing everything this weekend finally!

[drifty240]

Good luck with the install, and just take your time and double check everything. The worse part i has was getting the manifold on. we had loosen one motor mount and jack up that side of the motor to get it squeeze in and the cat bolts can be a pita. Other than that it was smooth less than 8 hours.

Do you have an oil pan with a bung welded yet?

[twastheglow]

Good luck with the install, and just take your time and double check everything. The worse part i has was getting the manifold on. we had loosen one motor mount and jack up that side of the motor to get it squeeze in and the cat bolts can be a pita. Other than that it was smooth less than 8 hours.

Do you have an oil pan with a bung welded yet?


Thanks. I appreciate your advice. Yeah, I have the bung welded on the pan with the pan on my car already. Can you possibly snap some pics for me?

[twastheglow]

Come on...someone must be able to help me out...

[twastheglow]

If I "t" into the vacuum line going to the brake booster (before the check valve), what should I be running that to? The BOV, AEM TruBoost, or wastegate? And which ever one that goes to, how do I run the lines for the other 2? LOL

[twastheglow]

From what I've read, the BOV needs to be "t" into a vacuum line from the intake manifold. In the FSM, it shows there are 4 lines (2 of which are vacuum lines) that come up from underneath the throttle body and run along the front of the engine bay (above the radiator). 1 of the lines goes to PAIRC-solenoid, and the other goes to the canister. Can I use one of those 2 for the BOV? If so which one and where should I "t" into it?

[240_fun]

Did you remove all the emissions?

[twastheglow]

No, I haven't removed any...and I don't plan to either.

[frosti108]

Ok...I have a request guys. I need pics of where you KA-T guys ran vacuum for your wg, bov, and boost gauge/controller. I know you're supposed to run them from certain locations. Can anyone take some detailed shots of where they ran them from so I can check it out. I'm installing everything this weekend finally!

the boost gauge AND bov should both be taking vaccum from the intake manifold PLENUM. removing some of your emissions bull**** helps because then you have left over vaccum bungs all over the intake plenum, waiting to be used. i actually used a single larger port on the plenum, and used a T for both the boost gauge and the bov.it might be a better idea to run seperate lines for these from the plenum, but my setup is working fine.

and for the wastegate, vaccum should be be taken from the hotpipe. my internal WG T3 actually draws vaccum right from the outlet side of the compressor. if you look at that pic i posted of my engine before, you can see my wastegate line with a manual boost controller on it hanging under the turbo lol if you look up right ontop of the compressor inlet, you can see the vaccum connection on the side of the outlet
its basically just self contained right there on the turbo. if you dont have a vaccum port right on the turbo, you gotta take it from somewhere on the hotpipe, preferably right after the turbo

[twastheglow]

None of my ic piping have any barbs welded to it to run anything extra. Can't I just run vacuum from a different source for the wg?

[twastheglow]

So what if I ran my BOV & TruBoost from the brake booster line and then the wastegate from the fpr line?

[Ace]

You can do a few things

1. Drill your hotpipe, put in a bung, and use epoxy to hold it in. I've done many cars this way, all of which have no issues.

2. In your large brake booster line, intall a vacuum manifold (IE: the Golden Eagle one, etc). Just be aware of the little check valve/ball thing that is in that line.

[twastheglow]

So, if I that booster line pulls enough vacuum to sustain all three components, then I think I should be fine running 2 of that then 1 off the fpr, correct? If so, which 2 should be paired up? BOV/wastegate on the brake booster, then TruBoost off the fpr? Would that suffice?

[Ace]

I don't like tapping anything in the FPR line at all.

Put in a vacuum manifold inline the brake booster line. Source your EBC brain, BOV,and boost gauge from there. I like sourcing WG and EWG stuff from the hotpipe.

The brake booster is the largest vacuum hose source you can use, aside from the IM itself. It's to bad you're keeping EGR stuff, as you can tap the block off plates and use them as well.

[frosti108]

You can do a few things

1. Drill your hotpipe, put in a bung, and use epoxy to hold it in. I've done many cars this way, all of which have no issues.


hell yea ive done this a few times and it works great. although i do try to be gentle around it just in case, lol like when connecting and disconnecting your vaccum line to it

So, if I that booster line pulls enough vacuum to sustain all three components, then I think I should be fine running 2 of that then 1 off the fpr, correct? If so, which 2 should be paired up? BOV/wastegate on the brake booster, then TruBoost off the fpr? Would that suffice?

bov and wg should be drawing from different spots. you want BOV connected AFTER the throttle body. and WG connected before the throttle body. when the throttle body opens and closes, air pressure is different on either side of it. on the GAUGE you want to read the air AFTER the throttle body. the WG however should be reading the air pressure in the piping before the throttlebody.

[twastheglow]

Ok...so I looked over the TruBoost much more carefully. So tell me if this makes sense. I'm going to "t" into the brake booster to run my BOV. After that "t" I'm going to "t" into it again closer to the check valve for the TruBoost. The TruBoost has one tube coming out the back of the gauge. Then there's a wiring harness that you wire into a boost solenoid that has a barb to run a vacuum line to the internal wastegate. Problem solved...I think. Does that make sense to everyone?

[twastheglow]

I'm pretty sure I have all the vacuum lines situated now. Thanks for everyone's help!!!

Is anyone running a oil restrictor on their feed line. I bought one from ATP for a BB T28, but I don't know if I need it. What are your thoughts?

[Ace]

What turbo are you running?

[twastheglow]

Bb t28.

[Ace]

I'd run the correct oil restrictor then yes. I run them on all turbos I play with, aside from the new GT Garretts with built in restriction.

[twastheglow]

Cool. Thank you.

[frosti108]

now that i think about it i dont think im running a restrcitor. i know i got one with my kit, but i forget if i used it or not. anyway my T3 is doing fine, actually nothing wrong at all with it

[twastheglow]

Ok, so I just got home. Since Saturday night I've been working on my car installing my turbo. I finally have everything in and I have some questions I hope you guys can help me with. When I start the car, it runs rougher and louder than it used to. It hesitates when I rev it a little and my UEGO consistently says nothing with the LED's all the way to the last red. When I rev it a little here and there the AFR go back down into the yellow (17's). I was a little too nervous to test drive it because the AFR seemed to be so out of wack.

Recap...I have a BB T28, STi 550cc injectors, Z32 MAF, EFI Specialist ROM tune, AEM TruBoost and UEGO.

Does anyone have words of wisdom? I've checked for vacuum leaks and can't seem to find any (not that there aren't any, it was pretty late by the time I started checking). Again, I'm concerned about my AFR, but I don't know if maybe the UEGO doesn't read until you're driving or what. Ok guys, tell me what you think. Thanks a lot in advance.

[frosti108]

the rom tune is for 550s and the z32 mafs?

have you tried letting the car warm up all the way yet?

well before anything, we need PICS. you have the wideband in the exhaust around like under your feet?

u made sure the base timing is right? did u need resistors for those injectors or not?

to check for boost/vac leaks you can make a boot out of a pvc end cap and put it on the pipe that usually connects to your turbo compressor outlet. on the endcap, you drill a hole and epoxy/jbweld a schrader valve or air compressor nozzle thing so that you can pump air into your piping to look for air leaks.

how are you running the mafs? before the turbo or in the boost pipe? did u ground the mafs to the chassis? did u spray it with mafs cleaner before using it? wired it in correctly?

we need pics

your not running an apexi afc or anything are you?

[twastheglow]

1) I'll take pics tomorrow night and post them up. What exactly would you like pics of?
2) Yes, the rom tune is for 550cc injectors and Z32 MAF.
3) I have not let the car warm up because my AFR seemed SOO lean. It wouldn't even give me a number on the display and the LED sweeper was in the red.
4) I have the wideband installed at the end of my downpipe.
5) I haven't changed the timing since I installed everything. It's the exact same. Although it does feel like a timing issue now that you say that. Weird. I never touched that at all.
6) I did not need resistors for the injectors.
7) I will try that method for checking vacuum leaks.
8) The MAF is about 12" from the turbo on the intake.
9) I did ground the extra MAF wire to the chasis.
10) I did not spray it with MAF cleaner.

[frosti108]

try letting your car warm up and then see if it revs and acts different. sometimes cars dont act right until they warm up. and dont be afraid of running lean while idling. the cars not under load or anything so it cant really hurt anything. if its too lean it wont run. does it sound like its bangin on all 4 atleast?

when u say the wideband is installed at the end of the dp... u mean theres a bung welded all up and its air tight correct? also make sure the turbo is tight to the manifold and not leaking, as well as the exhaust housing and the downpipe. if these are leaky they could possibly be messing up the wideband reading.

but im gonna guess that if u let the car warm up, youll be happy.

if not, post up again.

oh and get pics of everything. intercooler piping setup, downpipe, turbo... engine bay . we wants to see :)

[twastheglow]

Was I supposed to change the timing at all? The more I think about how it was acting, the more I wonder.

I'll try letting my car warm up. I guess I just don't understand why that would make a difference, but I'll try anything. It does sound like all 4 cylinders and firing. The wideband is installed in an o2 bung that was welded at the end of the downpipe next to the cat.

[frosti108]

well cars generally act differently in closed loop than they do in open loop...

and about the timing, you want your base timing to be set to stock. i think the stock DE timing is 20* but im not 100% sure on that. if your base timing is off, it will affect your whole timing map. like before i got my rom tune, i was running 5* retarded base timing from stock so that i would be safe when in boost. but in the rom tune, they compensate for timing retard so when i put the tuned ecu in and forgot to bring my base timing back to stock, the car felt even slower than when i started :lol:

[twastheglow]

well cars generally act differently in closed loop than they do in open loop...

and about the timing, you want your base timing to be set to stock. i think the stock DE timing is 20* but im not 100% sure on that. if your base timing is off, it will affect your whole timing map. like before i got my rom tune, i was running 5* retarded base timing from stock so that i would be safe when in boost. but in the rom tune, they compensate for timing retard so when i put the tuned ecu in and forgot to bring my base timing back to stock, the car felt even slower than when i started :lol:

Well, I guess I'll start it tonight and let it run until it warms up. I still don't know what to think about the wideband. It wasn't giving me an AFR number. I don't want to drive it until I figure out why it's doing that. My timing is whatever it's supposed to be stock. SO I guess that's fine too. I'm wicked bummed that it's not doing too well.

[twastheglow]

And what's your best guess as to why it idles to rough and hesitates when I step on the gas. It's almost like it struggles for a second to get going.

[twastheglow]

I've gone over in my head every step of that install. The only think I can think of (other than leaks) is that maybe 1 or a couple injectors aren't seated correctly and I fouled out 1 or a couple spark plugs. Would that have these symptoms too? We had a hell of a time getting them in and I wasn't 100% convinced they popped in correctly.
*mike*

[ilovecoupes]

I would suggest making your own boost leak tester. And triple checking you have no leaks. they can cause poor idel and hesitation.

Improper timing will make your car hesitate, and feel sluggish. Even though you haven't touched it, I would still double check.

Are you sure you don't need a injector resistor box? Dose the KA use the same impedance as STI's? high impedance?

And you said your ecu isn't throwing any codes correct?

[twastheglow]

I would suggest making your own boost leak tester. And triple checking you have no leaks. they can cause poor idel and hesitation.

Improper timing will make your car hesitate, and feel sluggish. Even though you haven't touched it, I would still double check.

Are you sure you don't need a injector resistor box? Dose the KA use the same impedance as STI's? high impedance?

And you said your ecu isn't throwing any codes correct?

Yeah, it sounds like a boost/leak tester is my next step. Do you do it the same way Frosti recommended? I think I'll check the timing too. I have a timing gun at my house. 20* from TDC, correct? Yeah, no resistors are needed for STi injectors. And I do not have a CEL, although I have not checked the ecu itself yet.

[twastheglow]

to check for boost/vac leaks you can make a boot out of a pvc end cap and put it on the pipe that usually connects to your turbo compressor outlet. on the endcap, you drill a hole and epoxy/jbweld a schrader valve or air compressor nozzle thing so that you can pump air into your piping to look for air leaks.

I just reread your post. Why would I only be checking for leaks there? That would be pretty much only checking the hotpipe. Is that the place that matters?

[ilovecoupes]

Yeah, it sounds like a boost/leak tester is my next step. Do you do it the same way Frosti recommended? I think I'll check the timing too. I have a timing gun at my house. 20* from TDC, correct? Yeah, no resistors are needed for STi injectors. And I do not have a CEL, although I have not checked the ecu itself yet.

i put mine in place of the hotpipe. Try it both ways.

You can look at codes by putting the ecu in diagnostic mode.
page EF & EC 40 of the FSM.

[twastheglow]

i put mine in place of the hotpipe. Try it both ways.

You can look at codes by putting the ecu in diagnostic mode.
page EF & EC 40 of the FSM.

Then where am I actually looking for the leaks...where the manifold bolts to the head, manifold to turbo, turbo to y pipe, y pipe to downpipe? Or is it all going to the other direction? So I'm testing the ic piping? Sorry to sound like such a noob. I've just never dealt with this kind of stuff.

[frosti108]

well since the mafs is at the very start of your intake (before the turbo) a leak anywhere after that will cause problems.

a good way to check for leaks around the intake manifold is to spray carb cleaner where u think could be a leak. when the carb cleaner hits the leak, the engines vaccum will suck it in and rev up or run differently. when u get a response out of the engine, you hit a leak.
i dont think this method would work too well for around the hotpipe though, simply because the throttle body is a pretty good barrier.

also i forgot to ask, what fuel pump are you running, along with what fuel pressure regulator, where are u drawing vaccum for it from...

but anyways did u try warming her up yet? and wheres the pics!!!

edit: oh and where did u get the mafs from, maybe its acting up. does the car ever try to stall out?

[Ace]

Call me crazy, but do you have your FPR set correctly?

Did you have the cams out of the car at all?


What kind of vacuum are you pulling at idle?

[twastheglow]

I took a 1/2 day at work today to go work on the car...

So listen to this, I rechecked the bolts on the manifold that hold the turbo and 1 of them had fallen out. The other was loose to my fingers. So I went to Lowe's and replaced those. Now that that is fixed, my UEGO works correctly. I'm getting a AFR number at idle. However that's another problem. The car DID NOT want to start. It took a lot to get it started. When I finally did it would stay on unless I kept my foot on the pedal. And it ran rough ass hell again...shaking the whole car. After I shut it off I could smell fuel. Also, while it was running, there was a little white "smoke" coming from the fuel rail side of the motor. I changed the plugs and checked the injectors and I CANNOT FOR THE LIFE OF ME get one of them snapped in as tight as it should be. And yes I replaced all o-rings the other night. I even mildly damaged the injector from trying to get it in. I tried the socket trick and it didn't even come close. How should I go about it now? Would a leaky injector cause the car not to want to start then once running not want to stay on? I'm SOOOOOO ****ing frustrated. I sure wish there were people around here who had a KA-T!

Ace...
I never touched the FPR, so whatever it was at originally is what it's at now. I never took the cams out of the car. At idle it's pulling roughly -16 to -14.

[omgjacki]

I don't know a whole lot about what's going on, but I know a bad injector will cause the car to idle/run rough because it's causing a misfire.
Hope I could help.

[240_fun]

Rough idle hmmm
MAF???
uhhh
Injector...
Bad Timing???
just throwing out some ideas

[frosti108]

uhh did u lube the o rings before trying to stuff them into place? white lithium works good.

[ScubaSteve]

Wait, vaccuum is 14-16 at idle? It should be more like 22.

[frosti108]

did your idle screw fall out? :lol: happened to me once

[twastheglow]

uhh did u lube the o rings before trying to stuff them into place? white lithium works good.

Yeah, I did. I'll try white lithium grease like you mentioned next time.


Wait, vaccuum is 14-16 at idle? It should be more like 22.

So I assume that implies I have a vacuum leak(s) too?


did your idle screw fall out? :lol: happened to me once

I didn't check to look. That sits on the back of the intake manifold right? That's actually fallen out on you before? I don't think that's it because it would idle Monday night. Bu between Monday night and last night I took the injectors back out to get a better seal on them and I couldn't get them back in very well no matter what I did. So I screwed the brackets down on them the best I could and tried starting it. I know that's why it wouldn't start and once it did it ran like a bag of ****.

[frosti108]

well i wish i could help more on this, but im happy to have no experience with the GAY side feed injectors...
nothin but top feed for me thank you :)

on the other hand ilovecoupes destroyed his old ka due to leaky injectors. so ask him

[twastheglow]

Destroyed?! Oh good! Is that what I have to look forward to? How did he do that?

[frosti108]

hahaha leaky injector pouring gas into the oil through the cylinder and eventually spun a bearing

[twastheglow]

Oh god!!! How long do you have to go before that becomes an issue? I've only started it twice and I plan on getting that worked out today. I bought some lithium grease this morning. Now I'm nervous about all 4 injectors instead of the 1!

[twastheglow]

What if I change the oil once I have everything worked out?

[ilovecoupes]

Oh god!!! How long do you have to go before that becomes an issue? I've only started it twice and I plan on getting that worked out today. I bought some lithium grease this morning. Now I'm nervous about all 4 injectors instead of the 1!

It probably took like a month. one of the o-ring had a big tear in it. the motor was pretty much seized up. when i pulled the dipstick out, gas just came pouring out.

Just make sure your dipstick doesn't reak of gas. and your plugs aren't incredibly black.

try unplugging your maf and see if it idles better.

Ed- How much vacuum do you pull at idle? i think I pull a little over half a bar.

[twastheglow]

It probably took like a month. one of the o-ring had a big tear in it. the motor was pretty much seized up. when i pulled the dipstick out, gas just came pouring out.

Just make sure your dipstick doesn't reak of gas. and your plugs aren't incredibly black.

try unplugging your maf and see if it idles better.

Ed- How much vacuum do you pull at idle? i think I pull a little over half a bar.

I need to get it running 1st. LOL I couldn't get one of the injectors seated correctly so it didn't want to start. I could smell gas like crazy and there were puffs of white smoke that looked like was coming out of the fuel rail. I need to get the injector seated 1st...(which I just bought some lithium grase for to try to help it slide in easier). Would changing my oil when I'm done getting it running help? Once i get it running, I'll try unplugging the MAF. For all I know, it may run fine once I fix this injector issue. The other night when I got it running for the 1st time (and apparently with 1 manifold bolt missing :eek:) it read -16 on my Truboost. Does that sound correct?

[ilovecoupes]

Would changing my oil when I'm done getting it running help?

I would, if you think your injector is leaking.

[twastheglow]

So I tried putting the injector that I thought was leaking with lithium grease and I got the car started and it idled better than it has. So then I tried to move the car and it died. Now it won't start again! I'm SOOOOOOOOO frustrated. Now when I get out of work tonight I'm going to have to try taking off the fuel rail and making sure ALL 4 injectors are in there correctly. I can't believe this. How could it have been running what I thought to be fine then die and not want to start? It's like it's flooded again. Ugh!

[caldwell]

have you started or finished your turbo project ???? just was wondering how it was goin - im pullin for the best outcome for you with the newly boosted KA

[twastheglow]

So I just got home from working on the car for the last 4 hours. Even though driving it is iffy, I feel like I made a little progress. I took out the fuel rail and checked the injector seals by turning the key to the on position and 2 of the injectors started leaking fuel. So I swapped out o-rings and reinstalled the injectors. The car started up and idled great. I was able to pull the car back in the garage (it had to be pushed out early this morning to get another car out that was being worked on). I found 2 vacuum leaks that I fixed and the car idled even better. I tightened up my oil feed line as there was a very slow leak I hadn't noticed.

No on to the existing problems...

The car likes to bog down a little and hesitate when I rev the engine. If I hit the pedal sudden enough I can even get it to stall out...not good. When I turn on my lights, the car almost dies unless I give it some gas. The same thing happens when I apply the brake. Now I don't know if that's because I'm running such a small battery or what. Also my UEGO went back to not reading anything at idle. Although at this point in time, I'm not too worried about that. I want to get the car home to my house (we've been working on it at my friends house), but I don't want to drive it the 10 minutes away that I live in case it dies on me and I can't get it started.

Now what do you guys think my problem is now? Vacuum still? Vacuum along with something other thing(s)? Open to all suggestions so I can get this thing back on the road and drivable.

[frosti108]

good job finding the leaky injects.

POST PICS ALREADY. for real. they can help problem solve.

and i havent started my car in so long that i forget how much vac it usually pulls.

sidenote. u should invest in
1) a volts gauge
2) can of MAFS cleaner

[twastheglow]

good job finding the leaky injects.

POST PICS ALREADY. for real. they can help problem solve.

and i havent started my car in so long that i forget how much vac it usually pulls.

sidenote. u should invest in
1) a volts gauge
2) can of MAFS cleaner


Thank you. I appreciate it. I wish my other problems were as easy as that one. lol Yeah, sorry about the pics. I rushed right to my car after work to get in as much work as I could, and I forgot to bring my phone or camera. I WILL get some though. I know it would only help. My Dad has a voltage gauge I can borrow. What should the alternator read at idle? I'm going to pick up some MAF cleaner tonight. Could that really cause the hesitation when revving the motor? And what the HELL would cause my car to die when I apply the brakes or turn the lights on? Why would it be pulling enough power away to make the engine bog down enough to stall out?

[ilovecoupes]

when I finished my motor, my car would start up and die immediately. A can of MAF cleaner later and the problem was solved.

you don't need a volts gauge, a simple voltmeter will do fine. Make sure you are getting the proper voltage at the battery. Double check everything is grounded properly.

Try and take a picture of how you grounded the MAF.

[twastheglow]

when I finished my motor, my car would start up and die immediately. A can of MAF cleaner later and the problem was solved.

you don't need a volts gauge, a simple voltmeter will do fine. Make sure you are getting the proper voltage at the battery. Double check everything is grounded properly.

Try and take a picture of how you grounded the MAF.


Yeah, I think the stalling when I get on the gas quickly sounds like a dirty MAF to me too now. I'm going to try that later.

But I'm stumped on the car dying when I step on the brakes or turn my lights on. Even if the alternator was on it's way out, I would think it would start to run off the battery...not just die. I'll use a voltmeter and test the battery terminals at idle and see what it reads. The only thing I needed to ground was the MAF, and that I did. I'll take some pics as soon as I can...most likely tonight.

*side note*---I'm not sure if it's related, but last night my AEM gauges went out. I have them spliced into the stereo harness, both positive and negative for both gauges. Apparently I had blown the audio fuse. I replaced it with another 10 fuse and it blew as soon as I turned the key to on. Then I replaced it with a 20, and now they stay on. All my wires in there are correct and there is no exposed wire(s).

[frosti108]

well yea a volts meter is always a good thing im just saying that a volts gauge is good to have too. if your car is struggling and trying to die out on you, if your volts gauge says like 9.5 than you know whats up :lol:
my afc neo shows volts, rpm, throttle %, and fuel correction. the only thing i really look at it for nowadays is the volts. with my underdrivemain pulley and low idle speed, sometimes the volts drop and the car will try to die. if i didnt have the volts gauge, i might not realize that i need to rev it up real quick to recharge the batt

edit: oh and the negative wires for the gauges should go be grounded right on the chassis. theres a pair of perfect little 10mm nuts you can use for this right behind your headunit. but scrap some paint off before u do.

[twastheglow]

well yea a volts meter is always a good thing im just saying that a volts gauge is good to have too. if your car is struggling and trying to die out on you, if your volts gauge says like 9.5 than you know whats up :lol:
my afc neo shows volts, rpm, throttle %, and fuel correction. the only thing i really look at it for nowadays is the volts. with my underdrivemain pulley and low idle speed, sometimes the volts drop and the car will try to die. if i didnt have the volts gauge, i might not realize that i need to rev it up real quick to recharge the batt

edit: oh and the negative wires for the gauges should go be grounded right on the chassis. theres a pair of perfect little 10mm nuts you can use for this right behind your headunit. but scrap some paint off before u do.

I may at some point get an AFC. I actually spliced into the negative wire on my stereo's wiring harness for the ground on both gauges. I'll change that when I get out of work. Would that negatively impact anything? Would it cause my car to die when I turn on the lights or hit the brakes by chance? LOL

[Ace]

I doubt it's a dirty maf. 70% of the stock ones I've messed with are all oily anyway from lack of proper PCV or just blowby in general.

Is your FPR set correctly?
Is your timing set correctly?
Is your BOV recirculated?
What ECU/managment are you running?

[twastheglow]

I doubt it's a dirty maf. 70% of the stock ones I've messed with are all oily anyway from lack of proper PCV or just blowby in general.

Is your FPR set correctly?
Is your timing set correctly?
Is your BOV recirculated?
What ECU/managment are you running?

You don't think my car hesitating when I get on the gas to rev it quick is a dirty MAF? It idles fine otherwise. I bought a can of MAF cleaner to try anyway.

I haven't touched my FPR, nor do I know how to adjust it.
My timing is the same as before I installed anything. Iirc, it's 20* from TDC. My BOV is not recirculated. I have the Synapse Engineering BOV with the anti-stall kit for MAF cars. My car does not stutter or bog when I rev it and it blows off. It actually works great! I'm running an EFI Specialist ROM tune for my 550cc injectors and Z32 MAF.

My dad used to be an electrician and is really smart when it comes to that stuff. He's going to go take a look at it with me when I get out of work. He think's it's dying when I hit the brakes/turn the lights on because I have a grounding problem with the gauges I put in and since I put a larger fuse in after I blew the last one, it's just stalling my engine instead of blowing a fuse.

[Ace]

It's not gonna hurt to try, but I've never seen the spray make any difference.

You do have an aftermarket FPR on it correct?

See if you can find more out about that ROM tuner. Situations like this are where it pays to go with JWT or Enthalpy, as you know their product works.

And screw those 'anti stall' comments. YOu haven't driven the car well enough to know if it works great or not. A dsm friend of mine HAD one, and sold it. Nothing but issues on decel. Swapped on an old (yet venerable) Greddy Type S, recirced it...Viola, no issues.

And you realize that your cabin harness and engine bay harness are not on the same setup? (Do you have an FSM by chance)

[twastheglow]

It's not gonna hurt to try, but I've never seen the spray make any difference.

You do have an aftermarket FPR on it correct?

See if you can find more out about that ROM tuner. Situations like this are where it pays to go with JWT or Enthalpy, as you know their product works.

And screw those 'anti stall' comments. YOu haven't driven the car well enough to know if it works great or not. A dsm friend of mine HAD one, and sold it. Nothing but issues on decel. Swapped on an old (yet venerable) Greddy Type S, recirced it...Viola, no issues.

And you realize that your cabin harness and engine bay harness are not on the same setup? (Do you have an FSM by chance)


Unfortunately, the spray did not seem to make a difference. I do not have an aftermarket fpr. This is where I got my ecu tune from...
http://www.efispecialist.com/store/ They're a sponsor on KA-T.org and everyone who has worked with them have nothing but good things to say. You're right, I have no driven the car, so I can't say with certainty that the "anti-stall" kit works, but other people (again, on KA-T, have said it works awesome). I guess I'll find out. Recirculating is always and option later if it doesn't work. What do the cabin/engine harnesses have to do with anything? I do have an FSM on my home computer.

I found that the problem I was having with the car dying when turning the lights on was that the Deka battery I had bought does not put out enough power to sustain the motor while turning on my lights. I temporarily hooked up my old, larger battery and tried turning the lights on and the car didn't die. It worked out fine. So I bought all the materials I need to relocate the battery to the trunk since it looks like that's inevitable now. I'll be doing that tonight after work. Also, I'm going to wire the gauges up to a different power source to see if a beefier power wire can handle powering them. After tonight, the car should be drivable and run just fine with the exception of a little bit of hesitation when getting on the gas real quick. That I'm pretty sure is probably a vacuum leak I'll have to find.

[twastheglow]

So I BARELY was able to limp my car home. I relocated the battery to the trunk with no problem. I turned the car on and let it warm up while I was cleaning up a little. Then all the sudden it dies. I then back it out of the garage and it dies 2-3 times. I get going down the road and it runs like a bag of ****...spitting and sputtering...just not doing well at all. When I push the clutch in to coast, it dies. Whether it be a red light, stop sign...whenever I have to stop I have to make sure my foot is on the gas because it'll die if I don't. The car barely wanted to run while in gear. I tried to keep the rpm's between 1.5k-2k. Then I noticed that the car was EXTREMELY hot. So I pulled over and shut it off to cool down. Then I would have a hard time getting it rolling again. It won't idle on it's own anymore. I'd get it going for about a mile and have to stop and shut it off again because it was so hot. My wide band is reading anywhere between 11.x and not even on the chart it's so lean and it REEKS of fuel. It backfired most the way home. Not that it's home I can work on it a little easier (at my leisure). I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE TO EVEN BEGIN WITH THIS CAR. I have never been so frustrated and disappointed. And there's no one and no shop in my area that can help me. :(

[PUREKDM]

well just off the top of my head...which idk what its worth...i think it may be the timing or something with the distributor...sounds like an issue i had in the past...car ran like garbage...got WAY too hot...turned off randomly...it ended up being a new distributor...see if any of your friends have one you could swap out and check if thats it...

[frosti108]

what are you running for a fan? if the engine gets too hot it will run like crap...

[twastheglow]

what are you running for a fan? if the engine gets too hot it will run like crap...

I'm running the stock mechanical fan. So I checked my ecu to make sure the chip didn't come loose. It actually was a little loose, lol but that didn't solve the problem. I checked my plugs and it seems 2 of them were pretty fouled out. I then checked my injectors in the fuel rail again and NONE of them are leaking. It runs super rich (or so it smells) when it runs at all. And when I start it, if I don't step on the gas, it just dies. So I'm now wondering if my MAF is any good. How do I go about checking that? I'm running out of ideas here. The timing is also fine.

[frosti108]

im not sure how to check the mafs. it sucks you run the z32 mafs. i run the maxima mafs so if i think i have a problem, i just swap another one in from the junkyard ;) Z32 mafs is overrated

[twastheglow]

So no one on here knows how to check them? :( What about those 4 stupid vacuum lines that go along along the top of the radiator? I have them capped right now just to get by. What have you guys done with them?

[frosti108]

vaccum lines??? what are those... lol

i run vacuum to the brake booster and fuel pressure reg. ...oem smog **** FTL

[twastheglow]

So just plugging them is fine? Since I didn't remove all my emissions and I'm just capping stuff, I still have left over lines. Are there any that shouldn't be capped?

I checked my MAF last night. It's getting 12v, 1.4v @ idle and it goes up as I give it gas. I'm assuming that MAF is still good. What happens if the polarity on an injector accidentally gets switched? The only thing left that I can think of is that maybe 2 of the injector clips were wired wrong. Any thoughts?

[frosti108]

caps work fine usually but now that your boosted youll want to get creative with screws bolts rtv jbweld epoxy... vac caps are meant for vac not boost

oh and get rid of your smog stuff. take your intake manifold off and do it right.


and LOL @ no pics yet

[twastheglow]

caps work fine usually but now that your boosted youll want to get creative with screws bolts rtv jbweld epoxy... vac caps are meant for vac not boost

oh and get rid of your smog stuff. take your intake manifold off and do it right.


and LOL @ no pics yet

LMFAO!!! I know, I know. I will TRY and do that tonight. And you know what? It's not even that I'm being lazy about it. It's that I'm working on my car every night until it gets dark and I don't even think about taking pics. I bought the egr plug from JGS...here's the link. It's almost at the bottom of the page. http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html Since I've checked everything that I can think of as to why it's running so rich and dying out, I'm wondering if it's the injectors themselves. I've read on several occassions that STi injectors, although they're supposed to be 550cc, sometimes people have gotten some that are more like 565cc. If I happen to get a set, and mine were rated higher than what my ecu is tuned for...would my problems happen? How do I go about lowering my fuel pressure a little? Do I have to buy an SAFC or is there another way?

[twastheglow]

Side note...if the egr pipe coming from the stock exhaust manifold wasn't correctly/fully capped off, would the car run rich? If the egr pipe was accidentally pulling in some fresh air, would the car run super rich and want to die? I'm just trying to bounce any idea I get off you guys to figure out what the deal is with my car. Come on guys...help a brother out!

[omgjacki]

It's really sucks to hear about all this. All the time and planning that when into boosting this and you're having nothing but problems. I want to hear good news in your next post!

[Ace]

Unfortunately, the spray did not seem to make a difference. I do not have an aftermarket fpr. This is where I got my ecu tune from...

I knew that before you even started. MAF's, while fragile, are pretty tough when it comes to having film and the sort on them. They get hot and burn it off any crap in normal operation anyway.



http://www.efispecialist.com/store/ They're a sponsor on KA-T.org and everyone who has worked with them have nothing but good things to say. You're right, I have no driven the car, so I can't say with certainty that the "anti-stall" kit works, but other people (again, on KA-T, have said it works awesome). I guess I'll find out. Recirculating is always and option later if it doesn't work.

Call me crazy, but do you still have the stock ecu?

In a last ditch effort, why not reinstall the stock ecu/maf/injectors, and see how she runs.

What do the cabin/engine harnesses have to do with anything? I do have an FSM on my home computer.

Because you were going to be chasing an electrical issue, in a harness unrelated to what you should even be looking into.

I found that the problem I was having with the car dying when turning the lights on was that the Deka battery I had bought does not put out enough power to sustain the motor while turning on my lights. I temporarily hooked up my old, larger battery and tried turning the lights on and the car didn't die. It worked out fine. So I bought all the materials I need to relocate the battery to the trunk since it looks like that's inevitable now. I'll be doing that tonight after work. Also, I'm going to wire the gauges up to a different power source to see if a beefier power wire can handle powering them. After tonight, the car should be drivable and run just fine with the exception of a little bit of hesitation when getting on the gas real quick. That I'm pretty sure is probably a vacuum leak I'll have to find.

I have a DEKA ETX-14 Motorcycle Battery on my car, and have for a long time. Most lighting issues all trace back to alternator output, not so much batteries (although dead batteries will dim as well, but that's not the case here)


im not sure how to check the mafs. it sucks you run the z32 mafs. i run the maxima mafs so if i think i have a problem, i just swap another one in from the junkyard ;) Z32 mafs is overrated

Over rated? What are you smoking?

If you're looking at making anything over 300/325 whp, that N60 Maxima Maf is about as useful as a cup with a hole in it. If he just wants 250-300 whp, then the n60 would work, but why bother when most companies primarally tune for n62 Z mafs.

So no one on here knows how to check them? :( What about those 4 stupid vacuum lines that go along along the top of the radiator? I have them capped right now just to get by. What have you guys done with them?

You said you had an FSM right? Download the one for a Z, and trouble shoot the MAF using it (although it should be the same, or almost the same, procedure for any nissan maf).

Those vacuum lines don't make any difference, as long as you capped them off correctly. You should have one going to yuor overflow.

LMFAO!!! I know, I know. I will TRY and do that tonight. And you know what? It's not even that I'm being lazy about it. It's that I'm working on my car every night until it gets dark and I don't even think about taking pics. I bought the egr plug from JGS...here's the link. It's almost at the bottom of the page. http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html Since I've checked everything that I can think of as to why it's running so rich and dying out, I'm wondering if it's the injectors themselves. I've read on several occassions that STi injectors, although they're supposed to be 550cc, sometimes people have gotten some that are more like 565cc. If I happen to get a set, and mine were rated higher than what my ecu is tuned for...would my problems happen? How do I go about lowering my fuel pressure a little? Do I have to buy an SAFC or is there another way?

Even if it is 15cc higher, your car will still run just fine...as long as it's tuned for the STI injector in general(in terms of latency, overall value, etc etc)

FWIW: You could have the same injector tested on the same bench, at two separate shops, and get small variance.

Side note...if the egr pipe coming from the stock exhaust manifold wasn't correctly/fully capped off, would the car run rich? If the egr pipe was accidentally pulling in some fresh air, would the car run super rich and want to die? I'm just trying to bounce any idea I get off you guys to figure out what the deal is with my car. Come on guys...help a brother out!

Wait, the tube going to the intake manifold isn't plugged? If you capped the manifold, and didn't cap the other end, there are most of your problems right there!


PS: Get an adjustable FPR on there...the Nismo one bolts right up to the stock fuel rail. You'll need it to increase pressure once in boost. You also changed the fuel pump right?




From what you discribe, I'm willing to bet you have a vacuum line, and or potentially a MAF wiring issue. If you get the car to start, does it rev above 3500ish rpm, or does it hit a 'limiter' of sorts?

[twastheglow]

Call me crazy, but do you still have the stock ecu?

In a last ditch effort, why not reinstall the stock ecu/maf/injectors, and see how she runs.

Yes, I do have the stock ecu. I purchased a 2nd so I could send it out and get it tuned without my car being down. In order to hook all the stock units back up, I'd have to rewire new Nissan injector clips from somewhere (the old ones were cut right at the clip...no pigtail), I'd have to get another stock MAF (same situation with the plug). So yeah, that'll definately have to be a last ditch effort. :(

You said you had an FSM right? Download the one for a Z, and trouble shoot the MAF using it (although it should be the same, or almost the same, procedure for any nissan maf).

I actually ended up getting the info I needed to check the MAF. I checked and rechecked last night and it is wired correctly. I have 12 volts going to it, and 1.4 volts @ idle and it goes up when I rev it. So my conclusion, for now, is that the MAF is fine. :( Which sucks because I wish it was something as simple as that.

Those vacuum lines don't make any difference, as long as you capped them off correctly. You should have one going to yuor overflow.

I have them capped right now kind of half-assed with sheet metal screws. I should have one going to my overflow? What's that?

Even if it is 15cc higher, your car will still run just fine...as long as it's tuned for the STI injector in general(in terms of latency, overall value, etc etc)

Yes, the ecu is tuned for these injectors. On KA-T many people are sucessfully running these same injectors.

Wait, the tube going to the intake manifold isn't plugged? If you capped the manifold, and didn't cap the other end, there are most of your problems right there!

Sorry to sound so stupid, but I'm not sure I understand what you're saying here. Let me try to explain better and you can respond again. The pipe that goes from the stock exhaust manifold to the egr is capped (but not well by anymeans). I ordered the actual pipe cap that JGSTools sells. Here's the link. http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html It's almost to the bottom of the page. Now, the 4 vacuum lines that come from underneath the throttle body I also have plugged. Someone said however that 1 of them goes to a hardline and that is the breather for the gas tank and to leave that open to the atmosphere. I have no done that yet as I just found this out today. Does that sound correct to you? If so, what do I do with the other 3 lines? Just leave them plugged?

PS: Get an adjustable FPR on there...the Nismo one bolts right up to the stock fuel rail. You'll need it to increase pressure once in boost. You also changed the fuel pump right?

I've read that an aftermarket fpr isn't needed. That the stock one has a 1:1 ratio which means that as boost increases, the fuel pressure increases accordingly. And yeah, I changed my fuel pump about 8 months ago to a Walbro unit.

From what you discribe, I'm willing to bet you have a vacuum line, and or potentially a MAF wiring issue. If you get the car to start, does it rev above 3500ish rpm, or does it hit a 'limiter' of sorts?

Well, the MAF wiring is out. When the car is started, it will rev to above 3.5k rpm's. But I haven't done it much.

I'm still confused on why I smell fuel SOOOOO BAD when it's idling. I know I don't have an injector leak anymore and I just checked that 2 nights ago. Not a single drop of fuel came out when I primed the fuel system with the injectors still in the rail sitting on a rag.

I'm going to post some pics that I just took. I don't know if they'll help...but they certainly can't hurt.

Ok...there's a lot to go over here. LOL So one thing at a time.

[twastheglow]

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/twastheglow/turboinstall002.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/twastheglow/turboinstall001.jpg
I need to know what that hose to the left of the radiator is to and what I should do with it.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/twastheglow/turboinstall003.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/twastheglow/turboinstall005.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/twastheglow/turboinstall004.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/twastheglow/turboinstall006.jpg
In this picture I just wanted you to see how far away the MAF is from the turbo.

[Ace]

Yes, I do have the stock ecu. I purchased a 2nd so I could send it out and get it tuned without my car being down. In order to hook all the stock units back up, I'd have to rewire new Nissan injector clips from somewhere (the old ones were cut right at the clip...no pigtail), I'd have to get another stock MAF (same situation with the plug). So yeah, that'll definately have to be a last ditch effort. :(

WHen troubleshooting issues, this is the kinda stuff that may need to be done. Should only take (roughly) an house. If you're really concerned, make a jump harness for the injectors (ghetto, but may work to troubleshoot faster).


I actually ended up getting the info I needed to check the MAF. I checked and rechecked last night and it is wired correctly. I have 12 volts going to it, and 1.4 volts @ idle and it goes up when I rev it. So my conclusion, for now, is that the MAF is fine. :( Which sucks because I wish it was something as simple as that.

There should be tests between the one pin and ground...you should have like, 1.0 to 1.2 at idle, 1.4ish around 2500rpmish, and persay 3.5 to 4ish around 4k.

Also check continuity between the plug and ECU.



I have them capped right now kind of half-assed with sheet metal screws. I should have one going to my overflow? What's that?

Overflow bottle, for the water. Sheet metal screws should work, as long as you know they are tight.


Yes, the ecu is tuned for these injectors. On KA-T many people are sucessfully running these same injectors.

I know you can tune for them. One my friends was the first (or one of the first) guys to have a JWT ECU tuned for them.

I was just making reference that you were certain it was tuned for them.


Sorry to sound so stupid, but I'm not sure I understand what you're saying here. Let me try to explain better and you can respond again. The pipe that goes from the stock exhaust manifold to the egr is capped (but not well by anymeans). I ordered the actual pipe cap that JGSTools sells. Here's the link. http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html It's almost to the bottom of the page. Now, the 4 vacuum lines that come from underneath the throttle body I also have plugged. Someone said however that 1 of them goes to a hardline and that is the breather for the gas tank and to leave that open to the atmosphere. I have no done that yet as I just found this out today. Does that sound correct to you? If so, what do I do with the other 3 lines? Just leave them plugged?

Plug up all vacuum hoses not going to anything related to the turbo/gauges.

And that's the cap you need.

I've read that an aftermarket fpr isn't needed. That the stock one has a 1:1 ratio which means that as boost increases, the fuel pressure increases accordingly. And yeah, I changed my fuel pump about 8 months ago to a Walbro unit.

You need to find a better place for your information. You need an aftermarket FPR...that stocker isn't up to the task for the walbro either...you'll notice on 99.7% of the cars with a walbro on stock FPR, see much higher base fuel pressure because of it.

[twastheglow]

Do you know of any inexpensive fpr that I could pick and use that utilizes the stock placement?

Also, someone mentioned that I'm smelling gas so bad from removing the charcoal canister. Now, I did remove it. What do I need to do to "fix" the ridiculous gas smell?

[ScubaSteve]

I run a stock fpr with no issues and I've heard of plenty other guys doing it too. Do some searching on ka-t.org if you're concerned about it but either way I would relate the fpr to the issues you're having.

[twastheglow]

Did you guys remove your charcoal canister? I'm assuming you did. If so, what did you do with the lines? Someone suggested the gas smell is from the removal of the canister. Maybe I didn't do with the lines what I was supposed to. Maybe my car's not running rich like I think. Maybe it's running lean because of the egr not being capped correctly (since my wideband is reading super lean) and me smelling the gas makes me think it's running rich. What should I look for regarding the smell of gas?

[drifty240]

is the gas smell comming from your engine bay or the exhaust. If your runniung super rich you will smell it in your ehaust but if its you canister it will be in your engine bay.

Have you checked the polarity on the injectors yet? Are you sure they are good?

[twastheglow]

It's definately in the engine bay. That's why I was asking about the canister. I thought I had correctly taken care of those lines...but apparently not. I need to seal two of them, and the one running to the hardline on the firewall I leave open because that's the breather for the gas tank, correct? That's what I've been told. Why would I be smelling gas? Is it coming from one of those lines?

And it has been confirmed on KA-T.org that polarity does not matter. People have ran STi injectors sucessfully with them wired both ways just to see if it would work.

[drifty240]

Smelling gas, I hate to say this but are you sure your injectors are not leaking and or one is stuck open. I think you said you pulled the rail and fixed all the leaking injectors.

some random stuff... check to make sure you did not bump to break the engine coolant sensor , if bad or broken that will cause it to dump fuel.

[twastheglow]

I did check the injectors probably 3 nights ago. No leaks. I don't know if one is stuck open. I don't know how to check that. Where is the engine coolant sensor? I can't imagine we damaged something and didn't notice. But damn it, anything's possible at this point.

So you're saying you don't think the smell has anything to do with the canister?

[Ace]

I run a stock fpr with no issues and I've heard of plenty other guys doing it too. Do some searching on ka-t.org if you're concerned about it but either way I would relate the fpr to the issues you're having.

No issues, and running right are two very different things. I can't tell you how many times I've heard the 'oh stock is fine', someone have issues, swaping to a nismo and setting correct base FP, and enjoying the car again.

Watch it on a log, it'll do some wacky stuff!

And why be a cheapy, a Nismo costs what? 95 bucks?



So you're saying you don't think the smell has anything to do with the canister?

Doubtful. If yuo're running rich, it'll smell up quickly due to fuel dumping in the exhaust pipe.

Smelling gas, I hate to say this but are you sure your injectors are not leaking and or one is stuck open. I think you said you pulled the rail and fixed all the leaking injectors.

some random stuff... check to make sure you did not bump to break the engine coolant sensor , if bad or broken that will cause it to dump fuel.

A bad CTS throws an immediate code, and should also throw the car into limp/safe mode.


Once again, check for leaks! Do a simple pressure test!

[twastheglow]

What is a pressure test?

[twastheglow]

Let's take a vote...who thinks Ace should come look at my car?

I DO!!!

[twastheglow]

Or anyone for that matter. :cry:

[twastheglow]

I found this about the Nismo fpr. http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=33249&highlight=nismo+fpr Any others you would recommend?

[Ace]

Pressure Test/boost leak test etc etc


Search google for it, there are tons of guides...not really application specific, can involve any turbo car.



And Nismo is the only one to get for stock rails IMO. If you have an aftermarket with a stock provision, I still say they are the best/only to get, however some rails don't have the FPR provision...thus making you run an Aeromotive (or similar high quality aftermarket FPR).


As far as coming to look at your car, no need to

www.srswap.com

They've got the solution there, in the form of a nice redtop ;) haha.

[twastheglow]

Pressure Test/boost leak test etc etc


Search google for it, there are tons of guides...not really application specific, can involve any turbo car.



And Nismo is the only one to get for stock rails IMO. If you have an aftermarket with a stock provision, I still say they are the best/only to get, however some rails don't have the FPR provision...thus making you run an Aeromotive (or similar high quality aftermarket FPR).


As far as coming to look at your car, no need to

www.srswap.com

They've got the solution there, in the form of a nice redtop ;) haha.


I'll search google for those tests when I get to work today. Are they super involved or pretty easy?

People have had problems with running the Nismo fpr on stock rails. You still think that's better than getting a different one? Even if I have to move it slightly?

I don't want to buy a different motor now. I have too much money and time sunk into this one. Everything's done minus solving a couple issues.

[Ace]

http://zilvia.net/f/advertiser-specials-sales/206166-sr20det-fuel-pressure-regulator-adaptors.html

That should work. I typically do exactly what that thread says, and spin them, and just trim the end of it.....

I personally don't like the idea that they use a stock on to the 400 hp range....I just don't like the fact that they can't support the HP Walbro pumps.


Anyhow though, first check for boost leaks. And they are cheap to make too....you can source all the needed parts at a homedepot.

[twastheglow]

I checked out that link you posted. Is that an adapter to run a Nismo fpr, or the stock one?

I'm going to check for boost leaks like you said. I searched for a "how to" and it seems quite easy.

[Vince@R/TTuning]

http://zilvia.net/f/advertiser-specials-sales/206166-sr20det-fuel-pressure-regulator-adaptors.html

That should work. I typically do exactly what that thread says, and spin them, and just trim the end of it.....

I personally don't like the idea that they use a stock on to the 400 hp range....I just don't like the fact that they can't support the HP Walbro pumps.


Anyhow though, first check for boost leaks. And they are cheap to make too....you can source all the needed parts at a homedepot.

That fuel pressure adapter is only to turn it 90 degrees to clear large plentium manifolds(i.e. Greddy and others like it). it doesn't do anything with flow or testing.

And as far as the stock regulators, most of the time they are over 15 years old, thats the issue with them failing, new stock regulators are easily good to 400hp and thats just cause thats where the stock rail starts to restrict fuel. Actually horse power has nothing to do with the FPR it all has to do with pressure and flow and as long as those are within the range, the stock FPR are fine. I only know this cause i have dyno and tuned dozens of 350-400 hp sr20det's and i have yet to have a FPR go bad on any of those cars.

[twastheglow]

That fuel pressure adapter is only to turn it 90 degrees to clear large pltium manifolds(i.e. Greddy and others like it). it doesnt do anything with flow or testing.

And as far as the stock regulators, most of the time they are over 15 years old, thats the issue with them failing, new stock regulators are eaisly good to 400hp and thats just cause thats where the stock rail starts to restrict fuel. Acually horse power has nothing to do with the FPR it all has to do with pressure and flow and as long as those are within the range, the stock FPR are fine. I only know this cause i have dyno and tuned dozens of 350-400 hp sr20det's and i have yet to have a FPR go bad on any of those cars.

Well, the stock unit is $130 new, and the Nismo I found for $102.36 new. That's a no brainer. From what I've read and heard, using your adapter allows the Nismo unit to sit in a fashion that does not cause problems. Apparently there is clearance issues with the way it normally sits. Does that sound about right?

But that also makes me wonder, if the stock unit on an SR can handle up to 400whp before it needs to be changed, I wonder why the stock on a KA wouldn't suffice for 250-290whp (which is all I'm going to be putting down with a ported bb t28).

[twastheglow]

What's your take on ALL this Vince?

[frosti108]

Over rated? What are you smoking?

If you're looking at making anything over 300/325 whp, that N60 Maxima Maf is about as useful as a cup with a hole in it. If he just wants 250-300 whp, then the n60 would work, but why bother when most companies primarally tune for n62 Z mafs.


for people with stock internal KAs like myself (and twastheglow) N60 is all thats needed

[twastheglow]

for people with stock internal KAs like myself (and twastheglow) N60 is all thats needed

Actually, :o my motor was built by HRT with forged internals. :eek:

On a side note, I was reading about the pcv valve. If I'm understanding it correctly, it connects to a hose that connects to the valve cover on that barb. If I install a crankcase filter (which I did) on that valve cover barb, what am I supposed to do with the rest of the system? Did I miss a step when installing my turbo system? :eek:

[Ace]

I checked out that link you posted. Is that an adapter to run a Nismo fpr, or the stock one?

I'm going to check for boost leaks like you said. I searched for a "how to" and it seems quite easy.

Yep, they are totally cake.


Well, the stock unit is $130 new, and the Nismo I found for $102.36 new. That's a no brainer. From what I've read and heard, using your adapter allows the Nismo unit to sit in a fashion that does not cause problems. Apparently there is clearance issues with the way it normally sits. Does that sound about right?

Yepper.

But that also makes me wonder, if the stock unit on an SR can handle up to 400whp before it needs to be changed, I wonder why the stock on a KA wouldn't suffice for 250-290whp (which is all I'm going to be putting down with a ported bb t28).

Get the Nismo, but again, do the pressure test first.


That fuel pressure adapter is only to turn it 90 degrees to clear large plentium manifolds(i.e. Greddy and others like it). it doesn't do anything with flow or testing.

And as far as the stock regulators, most of the time they are over 15 years old, thats the issue with them failing, new stock regulators are easily good to 400hp and thats just cause thats where the stock rail starts to restrict fuel. Actually horse power has nothing to do with the FPR it all has to do with pressure and flow and as long as those are within the range, the stock FPR are fine. I only know this cause i have dyno and tuned dozens of 350-400 hp sr20det's and i have yet to have a FPR go bad on any of those cars.

Are you tuning these cars, or just running a chipped ECU?

I don't like the fact that a Walbro on a stock FPR nets 5-10 higher psi than stock base fuel pressure. That difference in pressure in my experience, typical nets much richer running conditions, and on top of that causes slightly higher duty cycle. For those guys running stockish setups, it may work just fine, but for those guys looking at making bigger power, it makes no sense. Now we all know running richer than normal isn't going to hurt anything, but for 100 bucks, I'd rather have the better control and the better running car. (Plus I think the stock FPR is partly the reason we see most people moaning about rom tunes being rich).

(not meant in a argumentitive manner, just my experiences)

[twastheglow]

Yep, they are totally cake.




Yepper.



Get the Nismo, but again, do the pressure test first.




Are you tuning these cars, or just running a chipped ECU?

I don't like the fact that a Walbro on a stock FPR nets 5-10 higher psi than stock base fuel pressure. That difference in pressure in my experience, typical nets much richer running conditions, and on top of that causes slightly higher duty cycle. For those guys running stockish setups, it may work just fine, but for those guys looking at making bigger power, it makes no sense. Now we all know running richer than normal isn't going to hurt anything, but for 100 bucks, I'd rather have the better control and the better running car. (Plus I think the stock FPR is partly the reason we see most people moaning about rom tunes being rich).

(not meant in a argumentitive manner, just my experiences)

I will try doing that test tonight to check for boost leaks.

And as far as what you just wrote about the stock fpr, I finally get what you're getting at. With all that being said, would that fpr netting that much higher psi (due to the Walbro) cause my vehicle issues with starting/running? Or do you think it would simply run my car rich with it's current tune?

[twastheglow]

The reason I ask that is because if replacing the stock fpr isn't NEEDED right now, I would rather spend the money on other things to get this up and running. If it's NEEDED to make my car run BETTER and make it run not so rich, that's something I would be interested in doing, just not right this moment.

But no matter how you slice it, I still have to install that stupid egr cap and check for boost leaks and see where I'm at then.

[frosti108]

lol oops. didnt know u had it built... i didnt see anything about it. what u got in there?? :)

...and how much boost / power are u shooting for when everythings right?

[twastheglow]

lol oops. didnt know u had it built... i didnt see anything about it. what u got in there?? :)

...and how much boost / power are u shooting for when everythings right?

Yeah, I had the motor built by HRT (Hand Crafted Racing) out of Durham, NC. http://www.handcraftedracing.com/ I have Wiseco pistons (9:1 cr) ".020 over, AMS Sportsman H-beam rods, port and polished head, ARP hardware, etc

Right now I'm just trying to get my car running at whatever psi a ported bb t28 is efficient at. Probably 16psi or so. This set up was just to get my feet wet and everything running correctly. I'd like to get close to 300whp, but I'm not thinking this turbo is going to push that much without maxing the psi out on it. Which I don't really want to do. I would rather not run everything ragged.

I JUST WANT TO GET IT RUNNING PROPERLY!!!

[Vince@R/TTuning]

Are you tuning these cars, or just running a chipped ECU?

I don't like the fact that a Walbro on a stock FPR nets 5-10 higher psi than stock base fuel pressure. That difference in pressure in my experience, typical nets much richer running conditions, and on top of that causes slightly higher duty cycle. For those guys running stockish setups, it may work just fine, but for those guys looking at making bigger power, it makes no sense. Now we all know running richer than normal isn't going to hurt anything, but for 100 bucks, I'd rather have the better control and the better running car. (Plus I think the stock FPR is partly the reason we see most people moaning about rom tunes being rich).

(not meant in a argumentitive manner, just my experiences)

I dont run chipped ecu's, we have a Dynojet dyno and we tune all our car in house. The reason Chipped ECU usually run rich is because they are usually mail order chips, not tuned to a specific car. There is no reason that a ROM tuned car, tuned on a dyno would run rich if the guy knows what he is doing. I dont do chipped ECU's cause we are a Apexi Power Excel tuner for the Power FC and it works awesome!

I would like to do my own testing on the walbro pumps in relation to fuel pressure just to verify those numbers. All the walbro pumps allow you to do is run more fuel at a point where it is needed. At idle and low load conditions more then half the fuel is returned to the tank anyway, it is at high load conditions that the higher flow pumps are able to make up for the lacking stock pumps.

And what does fuel pressure have to do with duty cycle?? The only thing that controls duty cycle is the ECU nothing else. You could run a fire hose for a fuel line and a fire hydrant for a regulator and duty cycle wont change one bit. And as far as guys making bigger power, if you have control over the injectors (I.E. Power FC or Rom Tune) fuel pressure isn't as important, as long as it is in the working range of the injectors, you just use duty cycle to trim in the fuel.

i don't mean this as an argumentative manner either, but if we are going to get technical lets get all our facts straight....

[twastheglow]

So I just got in from trying to do a boost leak check. We ran into some other issues and never got around to completing it. I did however find (and I'm quite embarassed to say this) that the intake piping was very loose where it couples to the actual turbo. Like loose enough that I could just pull it off. Thinking back, it must have happened when I went to clean the MAF with cleaner. I STUPIDLY never tighten the clamps back up. And it was right after that that I tried driving my car home where I ran into all kind of problems. So now my question is this...what happens (symptoms) when a car is pulling more air in than what was metered by the MAF? Because that clearly must have been an issue. Aside from that, why would it want to over heat over and over on the way home? It ran like 10 lbs. of **** in a 6 lbs. bag.

I'm going to be pissed if I have to somehow put this bitch on a trailer and take it down to R/T...no offense guys.

[teh DIRT]

Take it to R/T and let a professional look at it, it seems you've dug a hole that you can't get out of. A wise man once said "to get out of a hole, the first thing you have to do is stop digging"

[twastheglow]

As much as it pains me to say this, you're probably right. I wish everyone wasn't so ****ing far away. I'm not even sure how I would get it down there. No one I know has a car trailer.

[drifty240]

Put a shout out on Ka-t.org and see if anyone is close and wants to come up.

as for the over heating. How long ago was the engine built? Did you remove any of the coolant parts during the install? If so you may just need to bleed your system.

I had a problem were my car would heat up to almost 3/4 before the thermostat would open but would only do it first thing in the morning. I could not figure it out, in the end all i had to do was add a little coolant and bleed the system.

Have faith once it up and running it will all be worth it.

[twastheglow]

Put a shout out on Ka-t.org and see if anyone is close and wants to come up.

as for the over heating. How long ago was the engine built? Did you remove any of the coolant parts during the install? If so you may just need to bleed your system.

I had a problem were my car would heat up to almost 3/4 before the thermostat would open but would only do it first thing in the morning. I could not figure it out, in the end all i had to do was add a little coolant and bleed the system.

Have faith once it up and running it will all be worth it.

I have looked for people on KA-T.org. :( The engine was built towards the end of the summer in '06. As far as cooling, the only thing I did was run coolant lines to the turbo from the loop that runs next to the throttle body. I did not however "bleed" the coolant system. God, the more and more I talk, the stupider I sound. :( How do I do that properly?

I'm probably going to work on in during the holiday weekend one last time. If I STILL can't figure it out, it's going to have to go somewhere. :( That kills me and makes me sad, but apparently there was much more I should have known when attempting this kind of project.

[drifty240]

So I just got in from trying to do a boost leak check. We ran into some other issues and never got around to completing it. I did however find (and I'm quite embarassed to say this) that the intake piping was very loose where it couples to the actual turbo. Like loose enough that I could just pull it off. Thinking back, it must have happened when I went to clean the MAF with cleaner. I STUPIDLY never tighten the clamps back up. And it was right after that that I tried driving my car home where I ran into all kind of problems. So now my question is this...what happens (symptoms) when a car is pulling more air in than what was metered by the MAF? Because that clearly must have been an issue. Aside from that, why would it want to over heat over and over on the way home? It ran like 10 lbs. of **** in a 6 lbs. bag.

I'm going to be pissed if I have to somehow put this bitch on a trailer and take it down to R/T...no offense guys.


I didn't see this... wow, yes getting unmetered air will really f things up. Have you tried to drive its since you found this out.

to bleed the system... make sure you open the bleeder screw and fill the rad with water until water starts coming out the bleeder. Then start the car and warm her up and turn on the heater and wait till the heater is blowing hot air. Turn her off and add water again...

Some people say that if you jack up the front end and leave off the rad cap it will also get all the air out the system.

do a search in ka-t and you can find more on bleeding your coolant system.

if i was use i would do the following.

1. take a deep breath and get some sleep
2. wake up fresh and take a look at your car :lol:
3. check the plugs and make sure they are not fouled
4. check all your couplers and bolts on everything you changed
5. make sure your battery is charged and grounded
6. check the grounds on the fuel rail and back of head
7. check your cap and rotor and spark plug wire order
8. say a little prayer
9. start her up and take her for a drive ....

[twastheglow]

I didn't see this... wow, yes getting unmetered air will really f things up. Have you tried to drive its since you found this out.

to bleed the system... make sure you open the bleeder screw and fill the rad with water until water starts coming out the bleeder. Then start the car and warm her up and turn on the heater and wait till the heater is blowing hot air. Turn her off and add water again...

Some people say that if you jack up the front end and leave off the rad cap it will also get all the air out the system.

do a search in ka-t and you can find more on bleeding your coolant system.

if i was use i would do the following.

1. take a deep breath and get some sleep
2. wake up fresh and take a look at your car :lol:
3. check the plugs and make sure they are not fouled
4. check all your couplers and bolts on everything you changed
5. make sure your battery is charged and grounded
6. check the grounds on the fuel rail and back of head
7. check your cap and rotor and spark plug wire order
8. say a little prayer
9. start her up and take her for a drive ....

I have not tried driving or even starting it since I found that. I can't even begin to decribe the embarassment I felt. :o

I'll try going through everything again to make sure everything's hooked-up correctly and give it another try. I am still waiting for that egr pipe cap. I'm not sure if I should try driving it with that pipe not capped proper.

[twastheglow]

Not to mention I still apparently need to bleed the coolant system. I want to reset the timing too. It seemed a little off somehow. I set it to 20* from TDC with the rotor on cyl. 1 correct?

[frosti108]

did u unplug the tps???? if not, than yes its probly effed up. also make sure you get the idle to around 700 rpms )i think thats what it is, maybe 750) oh and make sure the car is totally warmed up 1st

and i wouldnt give up yet. its just a bunch of simple problems. keep at it and you will be able to say proudly you figured it out yourself.

[omgjacki]

Update?

[twastheglow]

Two letters, one word...R/T Tuning.

[frosti108]

u getting it towed there or what? let us know what they figure out

[twastheglow]

I towed it down there on Monday. I just didn't have the time anymore to work on it myself. I know it's in good hands and that's all I could ask for. I'm hoping to get it back asap. Vince and I have been in touch daily. I'm hoping for some more good news tomorrow (as I already got some today).

[twastheglow]

So here's an update into the mysteries of my KA-T. Last Monday I rented a car trailer and towed the car 3 hours down to R/T Tuning. Once I actually receive the car back (hopefully this coming weekend), I will most certainly be doing a full write up on my experience as it's the best I've had at any garage for anything. That aside (for now), there was a number of things causing the problems I was having. Firstly, I had a bunch of vacuum leaks that were fixed. The MAF voltage was actually stuck @ 5.xx and was obviously not metering air properly at all. That's the reason it was dumping so much fuel. I did check the voltage myself, but obviously did it wrong. Apparently the voltage was stuck because there was a grounding issue with the MAF itself. They fixed that to find out when I had taken off the fuel rail those numerous times, a shim where it bolts to the manifold fell out and when I torqued it back down, the entire fuel rail bent. Since the rail was bent, an injector or 2 wasn't sealing properly which explains the gas smell in the engine bay. My plugs had again been fouled out as well as my stock o2 sensor, so they were both replaced. He also had to change the oil since I had so much gas in it. That much I figured.

Apparently with the tune I have + the stock ignition components, Vince regapped my plugs so they wouldn't keep blowing out and got it on the dyno. As of now at approximately 12 psi on my BB T28, I was putting down 260rwhp.

It also turns out that I have an intermitten knock sensor problem so that's going to be replaced this week and he's going to turn the boost up to 14 or 15 psi and see how it runs and how my afr are. As of now he said everything's running super awesome both at idle and under load. I'm hoping to pick the car up by the end of the week with a dyno chart to post up on here. I'll post more when I find out more.

[240sxDann]

super sick man! We definitely need final numbers and videos and pics!

[twastheglow]

That's definately the plan. And for me, the bottom line is, I would never have figured all this **** out myself. I'm sure glad I decided to suck it up and take it somewhere.

[omgjacki]

Vince is a great guy. He just finished my friend's Civic hatch that another shop destroyed and did a damn good job.

Can't with to see you get it back.

[twastheglow]

Vince is a great guy. He just finished my friend's Civic hatch that another shop destroyed and did a damn good job.

Can't with to see you get it back.

Yeah, it's just short of literally killing me. I was going to be picking it up this Monday, but the unexpected knock sensor problem held that off. :cry: Now I have to wait until next weekend. BUT, I would much rather wait and have it done correctly. So I sure can't wait for next weekend. This coming week is going to DRAG!!!

[omgjacki]

Yeah, it's just short of literally killing me. I was going to be picking it up this Monday, but the unexpected knock sensor problem held that off. :cry: Now I have to wait until next weekend. BUT, I would much rather wait and have it done correctly. So I sure can't wait for next weekend. This coming week is going to DRAG!!!

Good idea. You'd be happy if you got it back now, but that's running a chance something would go wrong. You'll enjoy it a lot more when you know it's done right and you don't have to worry about anything.

[frosti108]

thats fukking awesome. you should arrange to pick it up on a day theres a meet or something and roll up with your car lol

[twastheglow]

I'm trying to work something out with Vince to pick it up this coming Saturday because I have the day off as well as a ride down there.

[twastheglow]

I just got off the phone with Vince. The car is DONE!!! He replaced the knock sensor and everything is running beautifully. He bumped the boost up to about 15.7 psi and it's now putting down 278rwhp. And that's DAMN good for a BB T28 (ported of course). I'm going to be picking it up on Saturday. I'll be posting the dynograph when I get back. I'm so excited. I bought this car a little over 3 years ago with the intention of boosting it, and now it finally is! I can't wait to drive it!

[omgjacki]

Yay!!

[twastheglow]

Yay!!

My sentiments exactly!

Now I just need to douche the **** out of the car! It was quite dirty when I trailered it down there.

[drifty240]

Let me know were you going to be on Saturday, I would like to check her out before you head back north........

[twastheglow]

Let me know were you going to be on Saturday, I would like to check her out before you head back north........

I'm actually thinking about hitting up South St. on Saturday while I'm in the area. I haven't been there in like 6 years.

[omgjacki]

Oh geez. If you're going to be in Philly let me know. I'd love to try to meet up so I can check it out although I'll be in work until 5 or 6. Hopefully you're still around.

[twastheglow]

I honestly don't know if I'll be down there that long. If I left @ 5pm, with OUT traffic I wouldn't be getting home until 8pm. :(

[omgjacki]

Yeah, I figured. Just move to PA. It'll solve all of this.

[twastheglow]

Dude, seriously. I know. I would LOVE to live outside of philly. Unfortunately moving just isn't an option for me anymore.

[ScubaSteve]

Very impressive numbers on that little turbo. I'm getting my Ka-t back from the shop about the same day as you are.

[240_fun]

soo u basically jumped roughly 110hp
ughhh Now Im all jealous cuz u guys gots boosted KA's
And I'm poor :(
O well one day...

[twastheglow]

Very impressive numbers on that little turbo. I'm getting my Ka-t back from the shop about the same day as you are.

Yeah, thanks. I attribute it to having the turbo rebuilt/balanced then ported and gasket matched to the manifold. That and Vince's genius. LOL


soo u basically jumped roughly 110hp
ughhh Now Im all jealous cuz u guys gots boosted KA's
And I'm poor :(
O well one day...


Actually a stock KADE probably puts down like 125-130 whp stock if you're lucky. My compression ratio was lowered slightly when the motor was built so I was probably putting down in the 120-125 whp range. So my approximate gain was about 153 whp. 115.8 whp per liter sure isn't bad for such a little snail. LOL

I'm also impressed that I'm putting down roughly 296 ft./lbs. of torque! (I'll have to check the graph to confirm)

[frosti108]

soo u basically jumped roughly 110hp
ughhh Now Im all jealous cuz u guys gots boosted KA's
And I'm poor :(
O well one day...

c'mon man. im poor and i have a boosted ka :mrgreen:

[240_fun]

Im 18 and going just started college and i have to pay for all of that insurance gas and life.
WOOO HOOO lol

I'm also impressed that I'm putting down roughly 296 ft./lbs. of torque!
Gotta love that bout the KA! Torque > Horsepower

[jdmwill]

well if your coming down swing by the shop im a couple minute from center city philly. all you have to do is head straight up 5th st from south st. we may have a couple ka-t for you to check out.

here is the address 1555 n. 5th st philadelphia, pa, 19122

[twastheglow]

well if your coming down swing by the shop im a couple minute from center city philly. all you have to do is head straight up 5th st from south st. we may have a couple ka-t for you to check out.

here is the address 1555 n. 5th st philadelphia, pa, 19122

I just might have to do that. :wink:

[Mensaf]

I got a few 240sx trade offers for my 240Z. I'm holding onto my revhard manifold until I know what's going on. I used to have a KA-T, and the fun factor was definitely greater than my SR 240. I know Justin from the Drift Brigade is running a KA-T setup that makes 478whp. Monster.