Performance Dealership?

[twastheglow]

Does anyone know any Nissan dealerships in the NY/PA area that do performance work? I know there's an excellent one in VA, but that's a little far for me. I also posted this in the NY section.
*mike*

[twastheglow]

Or better yet, a dealership that has some genius mechanics when it comes to diagnostics?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

Wow, I guess no one really reads the Nissan forum on this site huh?
*mike*

[Shawn@R/Ttuning]

What do you need done?

[twastheglow]

I have a host of problems with my '93 240sx that I have tried in vain for months to fix. I have scoured other forums in search of help and nothing has worked. I'm at wits end and just need some help in person I think. I just want to take my car to someone who knows what they're talking about and fix the issues I'm having!!! :cry:
*mike*

[redwrxwagon02]

i think he wants details

[Shawn@R/Ttuning]

We build 240sx here all the time. From full caged, built sr race cars to the regular bolt on stuff. We can help you with the car and get it in reliable fun condition again.

[twastheglow]

This is probably going to be the longest post of all time, so I apologize in advance.

Let me give you the history of my car first. I bought my 1993 240sx coupe se in NC in July 2005 with about 130K miles. I was the 3rd owner. I drove the car back to NY state and had it garaged at my girlfriends uncle's body shop the entire winter. March of 2006, the body shop installed an S13 Silvia front end and painted the car Audi green. A couple months later I had HRT Racing build me a KA motor with Wiseco 9:1 forged pistons, AMS forged H-beam rods, micropolished crank shaft, port and polished head, 3 angle valve job, all ARP hardware etc. After receiving the motor, I had my local Nissan dealership, Serafini Nissan, install the motor along with a Spec Stage 3+ clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Nismo motor and transmission mounts, new clutch MC, new slave cylinder, new belts, hoses, etc. After installation of the motor I have had 2 major problems. Both of which Serafini could not diagnose or figure out. I absolutely need these fixed because I want to boost the car (that's why I had a motor built) but I want to make sure it's running correctly first. So my turbo has to be put on hold until this gets straightened out!

Problem #1: During acceleration the car hesitates and bogs down heavily. Sometimes only for a couple hundred RPM's then smoothes out pulls hard and smooth all the way to redline. Other times it will stutter and shudder all the way up to 5500 RPM's. This problem is comepletely intermitten. Sometimes days will go by and I don't have a hint of a problem. Other days it does it in some form every time the gas is applied. It's very loud and violent. You can feel the car buck and it literally sounds like a machine gun. It's almost like you need to power through it. The problem has gotten worse slowly since it first began in the summer of '06. It was garaged all winter and it picked up right where it left off this spring. Within the last couple days it even stutters a little bit at idle while sitting at a light. Not enough to stall, but noticeable nonetheless. I have tried changing the distributor with the crank angle sensor, the ignitor, plugs, wires, fuel filters, throttle positioning sensor along with other odds and ends. I finally got around to checking the trouble codes on the ecu today and got 2 codes. I got a trouble code for the intake air temp. sensor. I don't know where that is, what it does, or if it could even cause the problem I have. Secondly, I got a code for the throttle positioning sensor!!! WHAT THE HELL!!! I ALREADY CHANGED THIS!!! So that completely confuses me. I just don't know what else to do at this point. The last two things I can think of changing is the fuel pump (with a Walboro) and the fuel pressure regulator.

Problem #2: During deceleration between roughly 2800 down to 2200 RPM's there is an extremely loud and vibrating sound coming from what seems the transmission. It is much more obvious and loud in 1st-3rd gear but is still noticeable in 4th and 5th. The clutch, flywheel and transmission have been checked for problems and I've even swapped out the current tranny for an S14 unit and still the grinding persists. I'm at the point that I just want the grinding to break something so I can find out what the problem is so I can fix it.

Shortly after the new motor was installed, I also swapped the stock 4 lug hubs for 5 lug hubs and installed Z32 30mm front calipers, Brembo rotors, Hawk pads, and ss brake lines.

Problem #3: Since the brake installation, they have not worked properly. Sometimes I apply the brake and the pedal sits high, firm, tight and stops the car excellently. Just the way they're supposed to. Other times when I apply the brake it goes to the floor and barely starts to stop the car. I then have to let off, then apply it again and it seems to feel decent. Not as firm as it does at other times. Other times still I apply the brake and it feels quite spongey but still stops the car. I have bled the brakes twice and even spent the money to have a brake shop do it. After the shop bled them, the brakes felt perfect for about 15 minutes then went back to ****. The brake fluid level in the brake MC does not seem to go down. I don't seem to have a MC, caliper, or booster leak. I can't for the life of me figure that one out either.

With the exception of the motor build and install, my father and I have done all the work on the car. We installed the exhaust, suspension, hubs, brakes as well as all the troubleshooting parts mentioned earlier to try to get my car in perfect working order. So we obviously have decent mechanical knowledge. But these issues have us stumped. This just seems like something we can't fix and I may need to have someone else fix the problems. I'm relatively new to this site but am a frequent user of a couple other forums that still could not help me. I've been to your shop's website a number of times and had actually planned on having you guys tune the car once the kinks were worked out and the car was boosted. I just may have to make a visit earlier than I though. Any help you can offer would be GREATLY appreciated. Otherwise I'm going to have to stop down to see you.

Thank you for your help and to anyone else who wants to offer their $.02.

Lastly how far are you guys from Binghamton, NY 13901?

Here's what the ole gale looks like as of now...
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e178/jeslebelle/wheelfitment1.jpg
*mike*

[twastheglow]

Just a quick correction. It now does indeed spit and sputter even before the car gets to temperature now. And it also likes to do it slighly during idle. Yep, it sure is slowly getting worse. I'm not convinced it's fuel pressure yet either. Regardless of engine speed, it always stutters the EXACT same way. Same sound, same feel, same machine gun like noise without any variation regardless of what RPM's. :(
*mike*

[highmilehatch]

Have you verified that all of your plugs are firing as well as the injectors are working?

[twastheglow]

Plugs are definately firing. As far as the injectors, for the most part it idle's smooth and rev's smooth. It's really not until I'm driving that I have this problem. Is there anyway you would recommend that I check the injectors?
*mike*

[moorefire]

You check the MAF? (unplug it)

[Shawn@R/Ttuning]

Try getting a 300z MC something you should do when switching to the Z brakes.

[twastheglow]

Try getting a 300z MC something you should do when switching to the Z brakes.

With everything I've read, when doing only the front swap but maintaining the stock rears, the stock MC will be efficient enough to to keep the correct pressure and bias. I don't think that's the problem. I know too many people who have done the same swap keeping the stock MC and having no problems
*mike*

[twastheglow]

You check the MAF? (unplug it)

The MAF has also been checked. :cry:
*mike*

[whitezenki]

does it have abs?

[twastheglow]

does it have abs?

No. It doesn't.
*mike*

[highmilehatch]

When you clear the codes, do they keep reappearing?

[twastheglow]

When you clear the codes, do they keep reappearing?

I actually haven't checked that yet. The other day was the first time I had a chance to even check the codes and I haven't driven the car since. It actually sucks to drive right now because of how ****ty it runs. I'll check it again in a couple days after driving to and from work (50 miles one way) and see.
*mike*

[highmilehatch]

If you want to get the car fixed, give me a call 215-962-1423. My name is Jon.

[twastheglow]

If you want to get the car fixed, give me a call 215-962-1423. My name is Jon.

LMFAO!!!!! :prayer: Are you kidding me? I ABSOLUTELY WANT TO!!! :) Anyway. I'll definately give you a call. Do you really think you can help me diagnose it over the phone though?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

I just tried giving you a call and left you a message. I forgot to give you my number in case you don't have caller ID for some odd reason. The number is 607-759-8563. Thanks.
*mike*