Subaru Tech / Install Info/ Repair PDF Files Stick *Tons of Info Here*

[teh DIRT]

In my attempt to make the technical aspect of this site better, I have created a Subaru Tech Section for all of the Subaru gurus to spread the wealth. Here you can create DIYS, HOW TO's, and INSTALLS. In doing this I only have a few requests.
1. Write all contributions in a easy to read manner. Slang and abbreviations wont help.

2. At the end of the techincal post, write "keywords: (keywords here)". this will help users be able to find what they need when searching.

3.If you arent positive what you are talking about then let the public know that. Say:"i think this is right but I am not sure" so they know that following your steps may not be the absolute correct way.

4. Title the contribution by what you are going to explain.

5. CONTRIBUTE! In order for this to work I need YOU, the members, to take this under your wing and make it what it needs to be
-pete

[JoeScooby]

This DIY is installing a Perrin Up-Pipe, can be put to use on any brand.

Warning! Make sure you spray all the bolts with liquid wrench or equivalent. The nuts and bolts that hold the exhaust to the turbo, and the manifold to the up pipe and crossover pipe, have been know to seize together. Let the liquid wrench sit for a few hours before you remove them.

Tools you need:
O2 sensor wrench
3/8 drive ratchet
1/2 drive ratchet
Assorted extensions for 3/8 and 1/2 drive ratchets
10, 12, 14mm 3/8 sockets
12, 14mm 1/2 sockets
2- 14mm open-ended wrenches or gear wrenches
2- 12 mm open-ended wrenches or gear wrenches
10mm open-ended wrenches or gear wrench
Flat head screw drivers
Liquid wrench/ or equivalent
Assorted pliers

Let car cool off and prep for install.

1- While letting the car cool, remove:
Lower plastic splash guard (3 1mm bolts and 4 popits)

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1108/grill4qz.jpg

The air cleaner and box (2 12 mm bolts down low on the chassis)

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1047/airbox4gw.jpg

Blow off valve. (2 12mm bolts)
Intercooler (2 12mm bolts and 3 hose clamps)

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1209/intercooler7br.jpg

Intercooler bracket (2 12mm bolts)

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/1739/intercoolerbracket0lr.jpg

Turbo heatsheild (7 10mm bolts, some of these are tricky to remove)
You will need to cut part of the turbo heatshield away, to make room for the relocated EGT bung.(Indicated by the black line on the turbo heatshield)

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/2622/heatsheild3yc.jpg

Front 02 sensor wire bracket- mounted on #3 cylinder coil (1 12mm bolt)

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/8704/o2sensor6fz.jpg

Front 02 sensor. (The sensor can be most easily access via a port on the passenger side wheel well. This port is covered with a 4 popit shield. It is a good idea to get an O2 Sensor socket for easy removal)

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/3658/sensor2tf.jpg

Lower exhaust manifold heat shield (4 12mm bolts)

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/5029/manifold9pm.jpg

It is a good idea to spray all of the bolts on the turbo and manifold with liquid wrench or WD40. (There are 5 bolts on the downpipe side of the turbo, and 7 on the lower exhaust manifold.) Let the bolts soak for at least 30 mins, the longer the better.

2- Remove the 5 bolts that attach the turbo to the exhaust downpipe ( 5 14mm bolts )
3- Remove the 7 bolts on the lower exhaust manifold ( 3 14mm nuts, 4 14mm nuts and bolts )
4- The exhaust manifold can now be removed. This is a good time to tap for an EGT sensor if you plan on installing one.
5- Remove the exhaust down pipe, and 2 midpipes. [Stock Exhaust. Aftermarket exhaust could be different] (5 14mm bolts (turbo) ,1 14mm bolt to tranny case, and assorted 12/14mm bolts on the 2 midpipes. Be sure to support the mid pipe that contains the rear O2 Sensor.
6- Remove the lower turbo heat shield. (mounted to up pipe with 2 10mm bolts)
7- Remove the 5 14mm nuts that bolt the turbo to the up pipe and larger bracket. ( 3 for the turbo, 2 for the bracket )

http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/5884/turbo10cb.jpg
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/8478/turbo22hm.jpg

8- IT may be helpful to loosen the one bolts on the larger bracket that hold the bracket to the block. This will make things come out a little easier.
9- Unplug the EGT sensor connector located on the shock tower. (blue and black wire)
10- Remove the Passenger side motor mount nut/washer.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/948/enginemount7wn.jpg

11- Using a jack and block of wood, jack the engine up enough for the uppipe to be removed out the bottom. You should only need to lift the engine approximately 2 inches. Be careful not to hit the EGT sensor on the way out.
12- Lower the engine, and tighten the motor mount nut.
13- Now that the up pipe is out, spray the EGT bung with liquid wrench.
14- Remove the EGT sensor and install it in the PSP up pipe. Use some antiseize on the threads when installing.
15- Place the old gaskets on the PSP up pipe.
16- Tighten all bolts flush with flange. (17mm heads)

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/6486/uppipecombo9yk.jpg

17- Slide PSP up pipe into the car from the top. (This should be easier than the removal, since the PSP up pipe has more clearance )
18- Place PSP up pipe in the turbo bracket, use one of the nuts to hold it there.
19- Reinstall the lower exhaust manifold with the old gaskets. Don¡'t tighten all the nuts and bolts. ( 3 14mm nuts, 4 14mm nuts and bolts )
20- Snug all nuts and bolts down on the manifold, up pipe and crossover pipe, and brackets.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/6379/pspuppipe4jr.jpg

21- Install and tighten nut on the small turbo bracket ( 1 14mm nut )
22- Torque the nuts and bolts in this order:
Manifold to cross over pipe ( 2 14mm bolts )
Manifold to up pipe ( 2 14mm bolts )
Manifold to block ( 3 14mm nuts )
Finally turbo to up pipe ( 3 14mm nut )
23- Proceed backwards from step 9, reinstalling parts.

You have now completed the installation of you new Perrin Subaru Performance Uppipe!

Start the car to let it warm up and listen for exhaust leaks.
There may be a more noticeable engine noise coming from the PSP up pipe due to the lack of a catalytic converter and heat shield.

Dont forget boys and girls, depending on your dealer/service manager you run the risk of voiding your warrenty. Think hard and heavy, then again; adding a air freshner might void it as well, GO SUBARU!

Thanks to the guys over at perrin and ScoobyMods.com for a awsomely detailed DIY.

[TehWagon]

Awesome idea, Pete!

great instructions, joe! :thumbup:

[JoeScooby]

This is a fairly simple mod, so here it is:

Tools: flat-head screwdriver, ratchet/sockets (I think metric), open end wrench

Estimated time: 30/40 minutes

First, take off the air scoop by removing the two bolts holding it on in the front, and pulling the rear end off of the intake silencer. Then, remove this nut. Now for the hard part - remove the front passenger wheel and begin to remove the plastic clips holding on the fender lining. Use a flat-head to pry out the center (screw-like) part of these clips, then the outer (claw-like) part. They won't come out if you try to take the whole thing out at once. Take out all the clips to the right of the brakes, and also remove the little plastic panel directly below the headlights (this directs air to the brakes for cooling). When you have done all this, pull back the fender lining, exposing the "snorkus". Make sure you remove these clips before you remove the lining, or they will break. When you can see the intake silencer, remove the nut and bolt on the right side. Then, simply pull the whole thing out. You might have to remove the air filter and push from the inside of the airbox. Put everything back together (minus the intake silencer, of course) and you're done! Some people prefer to buy the rubber plug from the RS models to plug up the hole where the scoop met the intake silencer. That way, only cold air is drawn from the fender. Personally, I re-attached the scoop and left the hole open so there is never a shortage of air. Enjoy your new, cooler-sounding intake. You may also want to purchase the GP moto intake elbo if you want to keep your "False ram air tube"


Thanks to Matt over at Irregardless.us Otherwise known as Irregardless WRX

[JoeScooby]

Please do not blame me for any damage done to your turbo from leftover Cat material because you are blind. REMEMBER FEDERAL OFFENCE

**** The catalyst material may be carcinogenic (causes cancer) **** do this outside, with a fine dust mask, or respirator... for your safety.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9434/toolsrequired1pr.jpg

this project will take A LOT of work & I recommend 3 things... A spare up-pipe, some muscle, & an hour or MORE!

this does NOT include the 2+ hours to get the pipe out of the car in the first place!!!

I was lucky enough to find an uppipe used for less than $60 bucks... new with cat aprox. $500.00 from dealer

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/9926/cat14up.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/9999/cat24sz.jpg

Make a very mental note or measurement on the angle of the Exhaust Gas Temp. sensor it will make it easier latter when you put it back in...

If you opt. to not put in the EGT probe back in, plug the hole with a M12x1.25 bolt less than an inch long (cut if necessary) & use a 2.2k ohm 1/2 watt resistor where the sensor plugged into.

After removing EGT sensor, start by drilling a series of holes in the "Cat" until you are sure you can't get any more in it...

The cat is nearly 1-1/2" thick or more... !!! drill the hole closer to the center than this (you'll see why) !!!

NEXT... the big screwdriver & hammer...

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4895/hole10rp.jpg
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/922/hole20ct.jpg

This will take some time to peck away at this until the cat starts to come apart... once the center starts to come apart you might get this...

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/4875/hole38cr.jpg

... a chunk too large to come out the other end. This SUCKS!!! After some more work & possible swearing you'll get this...

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/604/chunk15sl.jpg

pliers (or needle nose preferably) to pull chunks out as you can... Once you get it all out & scrape the pipe till NOTHING is left.

When I say NOTHING I mean it... the cost of a new turbo is around $1000 (under $200 used usually). DO NOT ASSUME THAT IT IS GOOD ENOUGH !!! Look in the pipe, shake the pipe, tap on it... If you mess this up the dealer isn't going to be you friend because a little peice came loose & munched the turbo... I'm not trying to scare you, but give you reality... You can now put it back in the car...

( I chose to really go to town on the internals... a little wire brushing till it shined )

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/2108/drill15fb.jpg
http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/9137/nohole4zm.jpg

the little "ribs" are from the factory for better bonding of the cat.

Of all the areas the EGT bung will be the worst to work around ( bent screwdrivers help)

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/9341/final8ux.jpg

Your car will be happy to have this potential problem GONE...!!! best of luck... don't say I didn't warn ya.

Some of the tools I used are:

12" long, 1/4" drill bit extension (similar to Sears #00920920000, but cheaper)

http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/7020/extension4jh.jpg

12" long, 1/4" drill bit (similar to Sears #00966060000, but cheaper)

http://img455.imageshack.us/img455/5684/drillbit9ah.jpg

Big long screw driver, big old hammer, small wire brush that would fit into the uppipe & had a 1/4" shank...

Thanks to GLWagon

Now remember to MAKE SURE ALL CATALYST IS REMOVED, you dont want the turbo injesting a nice chunk of cancer.

[JoeScooby]

Remember kids, this may void your warrenty. Is also a federal offence to tamper with catalytic converters :wink:

Downpipe installation on a Subaru WRX

Disclaimer:
Perform this installation at your own risk. We do not assume any responsibility whatsoever for any damages of any kind resulting from any information printed in this article. This article was created as a supplementary resource and should not be used as the lone source of information on this topic. We recommend that you seek the advice of a trained professional. This is simply a guide to show users how we accomplished our own installations.

A few tips for installation:
1. Make sure the vehicle has had sufficient time to cool down. We allowed our WRX to cool off for 3 hours with the hood up and it was still very warm to the touch!
2. Gather all tools you'll need before you begin.
3. Spray all bolts with a lubricant such as LiquidWrench or WD40 and allow to penetrate for about an hour.
5. Use protective eye wear. Our tools consisted of a socket set, box end wrenches, an adjustable wrench, wire crimpers and some wire snips.

http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/5936/downpipe15qe.jpg

Step 1:
Remove the heatshield. You'll be amazed at the amount of bolts used to hold on this simple piece of metal. There are 5 on the left side (viewing from the front of the car), one on the back, and two on the right side. After you have all the bolts removed you're going to need some keen geometry skills to get the heat shield out of the engine bay but once you do, the downpipe to turbo connection is easily available. Once the downpipe is exposed look for the bottom heatshield. It connects to the downpipe by one bolt.

http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/4411/heat3cp.jpg

Step 2:
Loosen the downpipe. There are only 5 bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo. They are surprisingly easy to get to. Now would also be a good time to remove the O2 sensor from the Downpipe. Reference Step 5's picture for it's location.

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/4072/dpipe9ot.jpg

Step 3:
Disconnect the remaining hangers. We've used photos of the exhaust out of the car in order to point out where the hangers are in relation to the whole system. Install the new Downpipe by lining up the turbo/ downpipe bolts then securing the hangers. There are 2 hangers for the downpipe shown here. The front one bolts into the tranny. The second rests on a J bracket and is screwed in.

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/1830/hangers6rq.jpg

Step 4:
Hooking up the Midpipe. This one is very easy. Simply use the gasket provided by M2 to join the downpipe to the midpipe. Then use the stock rubber hanger and presto!

http://img475.imageshack.us/img475/683/midexhuast4ck.jpg

Step 5:
With the Midpipe in place it's time to relocate the O2 sensor. This step is required since the M2 system has it's cat in the midpipe. Without the O2 sensor plugged in, you can expect to see a check engine light come on. We had to splice the O2 sensor to extend it the 12" or so required to reach the new bung, but have since learned that this step might be unnecessary due to some extra length of O2 wire tied up in the engine bay.

http://img475.imageshack.us/img475/6112/02sensor8ke.jpg



OK this is a combined installation of a Down-pipe and exhaust, dont mind the last few comments. Remember to use some Liquid wrench, the bolts on the downpipe connecting the midpipe can be a pain in the arse. I had to sawzall mine. Trimming of the heatshield may be needed when re-installing, dont cut yourself cuz it can be sharp.

[JoeScooby]

This will work with the turbo timer harness found at any suby after market store.

Any modifications to your vehicle may or will void your warrenty!


Instructions on How to Wire to Arm the Security System After Installation of Turbo TimerThese should work on all '02+ WRX, but NOT STi models. (Please note that Mach V Motorsports assumes no responsibility for damage caused during rewiring should you decide to use these instructions.)

Step 1: After installing your turbo timer with the under dash panel off, locate the black relay box on top of the fuse panel. Unbolt 1 (10mm) bolt and cut the Green with Black wire. Tape both ends of the wire and reinstall relay box. Reassemble under dash panel.

Step 2: Remove the panel in front of the armrest by pulling up on the cup holder. Disconnect the power mirror terminal. Locate the wiring terminal for the security system. Cut the Grey Wire. Tape both ends. Reattach power mirror terminal and cup holder panel.

Thanks to Mach V motorsports for the info.

[JoeScooby]

Study Diagrams 1 and 2 on the bottom of this page closely before installation.
Caution: Do not bend or alter the black shrink-wrapped portion of the MIL Eliminator. This contains sensitive electronics and damage may occur.

1. Disconnect vehicle battery.

2. Remove O2 sensor after the catalytic converter (Rear O2 Sensor). Nothing will be done with the front O2 sensors up stream from the converters.

3. Carefully remove the factory sheathing on the O2 sensor (between the connector and the sensor itself) 2 inches from the O2 connector to expose the four (4) wires. Nothing will be done with the two black wires. The MIL eliminator circuit will splice to the blue and white wires.

4. Cut the Blue and White wires about 2 inches from the connector. Give plenty of room to splice wires on both sides of the circuit. Repeat, do not cut or alter the two black wires.(Installation Note: Do not cut out a section of the blue and white wiring, just cut the wires.)

5. Splice in the MIL Eliminator circuit (See Diagrams 1 and 2 below as a guide). Soldering is preferred, but a good quality waterproof automotive butt connector can also be used. There will be 4 connections made as follows:
A - Blue Wire from O2 Connector splices to Green Wire on the MIL Eliminator.
B - Blue Wire from O2 Sensor splices to Black Wire on the MIL Eliminator.
C - White Wire from O2 Connector splices to Gray Wire (Green Wire side) on the MIL Eliminator.
D - White Wire from O2 Sensor splices to Gray Wire (Black Wire side) on the MIL Eliminator.

6. Suggestions for Extra Protection - The MIL Eliminator circuit is fully encapsulated, but the installer will want to take a couple of additional steps to protect the circuit from the general road conditions. At minimum, start by using black electrical tape and tightly wrap the spliced circuit wiring, the encapsulated portion of the MIL Eliminator, and the areas of sheathing on the o2 sensor harness removed in step 3. Additional protection tips: Use plastic tubing or sheathing with hose clamps and zip ties, 3M rubber tape, etc. over the taped areas for added protection.

7. Reinstall the MIL Eliminator equipped O2 sensor into your exhaust system, torque to factory specifications, plug the O2 sensor connector back into the wiring harness.

8. Once your O2 sensor is correctly installed in the pipe and plugged back into its respective connector, hook up your battery.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7350/militself8zw.gif
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9193/mil14qu.gif

Disclaimer - Manufacturer is not liable for misuse or incorrect installation of this product. With any electronic modification, damage to the rear O2 sensors may occur if the product is not installed properly. MIL Eliminators are designed and manufactured for off-highway use only. Installing these parts on a vehicle that is used on public roads may violate U.S., Canadian, state, provincial, and/or local laws and regulations including (without limitation) emissions and safety requirements. Additionally, the installation of these parts may void your vehicle's warranty. The buyer agrees it will not hold the Manufacturer liable in any legal proceeding claims, and/or damages regarding the use of these parts.

Warranty - The MIL Eliminators are guaranteed to be free from defects for 1 year from the date of purchase. If the MIL Eliminators cease to function correctly, contact your dealer for an exchange. MIL Eliminators with melted or damaged circuits and/or wiring, or torn or broken sheathing will not be accepted for an exchange.

Thanks to pony express for the install info!

[JoeScooby]

After every engine modification you should reset your ECU.

I beleive this is actually called the Shiv ECU reset.

To reset your ECU: 1. disconnect the negative terminal on the battery; 2. pump the brakes a few times to get the few remainging electrons out of the system; 3. reconnect the battery; and 4. start the car and let it idle for a few minutes.

After you rest the ECU, your car is going to perform in a degraded manner as it will have lost its memory. Shiv of Vishnu tuning offers the following advice to recover performance:

QUOTE
Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.

Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).

The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....

First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.

Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower

In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!

Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful!

Thanks to Mr X over at WRXFanatics.com for the info!

[subwrxkid]

wow this is really helpful...post up how to put in injectors or spark plugs

[JoeScooby]

Detailed installation. Please remember this is copyrighted material from subaru, donot disperse amongst the world.

Mods, can you please resize!

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/2759/page11xk.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8784/page25xa.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7921/page39fj.jpg

[JoeScooby]

Copyrighted material from Subaru

Have fun, your hands arnt going to like you!

Mods, please resize so dialup people dont cry!

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8421/spark12qu.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/7166/sparkplug25dp.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5500/sparkplug37st.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/9645/sparkplug43pm.jpg

[subwrxkid]

keep it going joescooby...now I need how to wire a apexi turbo timer w/ hks wiring harness and also how to best run the lines on boost, egt, and air fuel guages!!

[JoeScooby]

Call me joe!


http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/7503/apexi8kj.gif

1. Disconnect the negativeterminal of the battery.

2. Pull the harness coming from the key cylinder. (In some vehicles, the whole
key cylinder is a harness)

3. Insert the installation harness between the cylinder and harness .

4. Connect the 3 prong Timer harness to the relay.


5. Splice the black ground wire from the relay into the Engine ECU ground wire. ( Please refer to the vehicle specific wiring diagram. ) When not using the Ｏ２ sensor, A/F ratio monitor, and automatic after idling functions, connect the ground wire connector to the chassis.

6. Splice the white wire from the relay（Ｏ2 sensor signal） into the Ｏ２ sensor wire from the ECU.（Refer to diagram charts.）

7. Splice the gray parking brake wire from the relay to the parking brake switch. （With the IG key ON, be sure to check that the parking brake switch reads 0 V when the parking brake is up, and 12V when the brake is down.)

Mounting the turbo timer

1. Use the included double sided tape to mount.

2. Mount in a location that does not interfere with driving. Connect to relay.

3. Reconnect battery.

Checking the Safety Switch（Parking Brake Switch）
1. Pull the parking brake, start the engine, and make sure the IG key is ON.

2. Set the Timer to a random setting above 30 seconds.

3. Turn the IG key OFF and activate the Timer countdown.

4. Release the parking brake during the countdown process.

5. Be sure the engine shuts completely off.

[subwrxkid]

my new favorite thread...detailed list on how to put parts on lol..thanks joe..now lets see that boost guage info lol

[JoeScooby]

Routing boost guage lines.

Pop out the gromet right above the clutch pedal. Please try not to loose it. There is an alternative gromet that may work better, but I did it this way.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1091/pedals13jn.jpg

Snake the rubber hose through the hole. Put as much as you can out there. Then grab a flashlight and balance it on a screwdriver till you can light up the area out of the hole

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/6692/greenplug6yd.jpg

Pop the hood and find the light. Use a wirehanger to guide it up to the top. Note that running the rubber hose here is more dangerous that my above mentioned alternative as I don't know what will happen if the hose breaks and dangles into some water or dirt.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/8608/holehood2uc.jpg

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9144/intercooler7mr.jpg

Then find the vacum line off the bronzed colored round thing with a Z on it attached to the intercooler. This is another dangerous part. If you want to do stupid things like myself, you will measure about 3 inches down and then cut it. Take the t-fitting that came with the guage and splice the rubber hose into that line. Here is a picture of the end result. Oh, btw, if you want to be smart then just run out to an auto parts store or home depot to find a matching high quality line... Therefore no changes to your stock setup (doh!).

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/2241/bov4iy.jpg

# Note that I installed it about 2.4 inches away.. you really should install it a little lower, or just buy your own hose.
# Check fittings and start up car. The boost guage should read in the negative. If it doesn't jump to 0 when you give it a little gas in neutral, then somethings wrong with the hose or the guage, or your engine.
# Secure your rubber tube as it can get damaged by the clutch or rub against the edge of the hole and get cut. I wrapped some electric tape around where it hit the hole and then "temporarily" taped it down.

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/9559/pedal26qr.jpg

[subwrxkid]

I guess i'm off topic.
Thanks very much Joe. Im glad you are putting these helpfull hints up for me adn other subie tuners!!

[TROLL]

joe are all of these your own installs and writeups? i'm really impressed... we're gonna have to get together and talk about how to better format this stuff so its searchable, etc. i need a guy like you for every make of car on the site :thumbup:
bryan

[TehWagon]

holey moley joe is the install mastar! are some of those from scoobymods? looks like teh apex-i one is right from their site maybe? either way, good stuff!

[IMPREZvWRX]

Why not just make an entire copy of Scoobymods?

[JoeScooby]

They all come from different spots, I give credit where its due. Those last few i forgot to put down the writer

[JoeScooby]

Why not just make an entire copy of Scoobymods?


Well then go ahead!

[JoeScooby]

Have at it!

Service Manual (http://www.wrxfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=16478)

Thanks to tubbytreats over at WRXFanatics.com!

[JoeScooby]

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/3973/paintcodemy041ty.jpg

[JoeScooby]

take the seats out of the car - 4 14mm bolts

flip the seat over and find 4 bolts(12-14mm i think) and remove the bottom cushion from the seat. you'll have to pull some wires off. around the front of the cushion should just pull off the metal pan/tray, its like weather stripping or something like that. ther should be 2 plastic clips on either side and hogrings on the back. after you remove all that, flip the material up and remove the hog rings holding the material down to the top of the seat.

for the lean back...
unzip the zipper inside the headrest hole. at the bottom back there should be plastic clips that clip together, undo them, and unzip the 2 zippers that go vertical along the back. inside along the side, you will find a strip of fabric rapped around the metal frame with a 8 or 10mm nut holding it together. take the nut off and loosen the fabric strips. now, gentally roll the seat cover over the front of the cushion, careful not to rip the cover, exspecially around the corners. now you can remove the hog rings holding the cover down to the top of the cushion.


I recommend NOT doing this if you have no experience in upolstery work. I spent a year recovering factory seats in leather for dealerships and it isn't the easiest thing unless you've done it before. The removal won't be too bad, but putting the covers back on so they look nice will be a pita.


Thanks to Mr Tomtastic for this bit of info, unfortunatly not all of us have the time or the patients to do this. Tried it yesterday, I gave up

[JoeScooby]

Here is a quick how to for boost guage/any guage wiring for lighting. Pics this weekend.

http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/8956/panel7fq.jpg

I used the clock to tap the juice. You have 4 wires total on the back of the clock, LR - YG - PL - B.

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/4894/plug6kg.jpg

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/6153/colors5no.jpg

LR - Blue/Red
YG - Yellow/GReen
PL - Pink/Blue
B - Black

LR - runs to FB8 - runs to direct battery bus. (Excuse the aircraft terminology)

YG - runs to FB26 - runs to ACC/Ignition

PL - runs to FB9 - runs to tail illumination relay.

B - ofcourse ground.

My gauge has 3 wires. Ground, 12 Volt ignition, and Dimming.

I used FB26 - (YG) for 12 volt during key on

FB9 - for dimming, guage dims when lights are turned on due to tail illumination relay.

and duh, B for ground.

DO NOT use FB8!!! guage will be very very dim when your car is off.

I plan on using vampire taps if there is room to spare. If anything im going to splice using FAA aproved slices ;)

I guess if you want to run the line, follow the old boost line. I'm having problems pulling off the steering column, I'm calling it quits for today. It's to hot outside. Crotchrot

Here is me jimmy riggn the gauge..



http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/821/jimmyrig7mp.jpg

[Vypurr]

Found this manual online in PDF and it seems pretty good!

http://cl50.com/xweb/STi%20Manual/

[AREA1320]

psshh.. ;)

http://www.ken-gilbert.com/wrx/impreza_manuals.htm

[malloyboy1]

just adding a little for a cleaner install on the boost gauge section. instead of taking out the rubber gromet and running the rubber vac line that way take the rubber gromet out and find a hole punch or something to put a hole in it to run the vac line through the hole. the hole should be just a little smaller so it "seals" around the vac line. this way you wont get any condensation, wind noise, or anything else you dont want in your car in. same goes for running amp wires or anything else coming from the engine bay to the cabin of the car.

[malloyboy1]

ok this post is for anyone that second guesses everytime they go to jack up a car (an 05 wrx for now) .


if you are just changing a tire then jacking up on the pinch weld is find but at times when you need either the entire front or entire rear of the car in the air then this is how you would do it and know that your car is safe.


4370
this is a pic of the front of the car with the splash shield removed. removing the splash shield is not needed, the jack plate is located right after the splash shield or behind the oil pan.



this is a closer pic of what you are going to see.
4371

make sure the car is on a hard level surface and you are all set now to jack up the front of the car.


if the car is lowered and the jack is hitting the undersides of the car...

figure out how much room you need to clear the jack and get boards that are high enough to make the clearance. just drive the front wheels up onto the boards and continue jacking up the car.
this pic is after the tire was removed but you can see what i mean.
4373



jacking up the back.
there are two ways people do this.
the first is to just jack the car up by the rear diff and the second is the same but with a piece of wood between the jack foot and the diff.

either way works fine its a personal preferance kind of thing.

4372



after jacking up a vehicle be sure to use jackstands to secure the car.

in the front of the wrx there are 2 options for jackstands.

this pic is from the passenger side angled forward
4374

option 1 is near the pinch weld but its a better spot for the front
option 2 is with the splash shield removed only!!!!!!!!!!!


in the rear of the wrx jackstands should be on the pinchwelds only not the trunkpan like some people try.

[TROLL]

wanted to put this pic somewhere on the forum for those who dont understand the layout of the boxer engine/transmission... this is a cutaway obviously so the top is missing... intake manifold would be sitting up top though...

http://members.home.nl/bogink/images/wrx-engine.jpg

[rocco]

never noticed this topic looks good guys. i have a few of these parts collecting dust in my basement right now. im hanging on to my warranty and wanting to get more familar with the car before i modd it. im running a cat back on my sti now and probally be it for a while im building a garage in my backyard right now so its not my biggest priority. but i did have a QUESTION. since im running the cat back should i be worried? i dont need to be tuned to run the cat back or do i?

[012.5RS]

thanx for the info on the injectors. will make it a lot easier puttin in my pinks now and i dont gotta pay extra when my swap is put in.

[Jeffros Spec V]

Not that many people are doing this. I wrote this up for my STi cam install.

I searched and didn't find to much so I'm writing something up myself. My motor took a dump so I'm doing a 2.5 hybrid and I'm using STi cams. As you know STI cams can be used but the AVCS plugs need to filled. You can either weld them or plug them. I decided to plug them.

First you'll need some supplies

1. Eight (8) 5mmx5mm .8thread set screws
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e382/Jeffro1122/DSC_0030.jpg
2. 5mm x.8 pictch tap
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e382/Jeffro1122/DSC_0037-1.jpg
3. Red loctite
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e382/Jeffro1122/DSC_0035.jpg
4. STi cams
5. Some grease
6. File
7. Carb cleaner
8. 2.5mm allen key

Step one.
Put some grease on the tap and run it down into each hole on the front side of the cam (4 on each cam.) Only the intake cams have these holes. Make sure that after each turn or so you back the tap out to clean off the filings.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e382/Jeffro1122/DSC_0034.jpg

Step two.
Make sure that all your holes are deep enough. The set screws want to be just below the surface of the cam. If they are deep enough you want to take the file and clean the face of the cam as when you tap it you'll pull material to the surface. Be carefull to not file the face of the cam to much.

Step three
Take the carb cleaner and clean all the holes with carb cleaner really well and make sure they are dry.

Step four.
Apply red loctite to the the threads of the set screws and screw them into the cam. Seat them just below the surface of the cam face.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e382/Jeffro1122/DSC_0101.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e382/Jeffro1122/DSC_0108.jpg

Step five.
Enjoy.

[malloyboy1]

this is a DIY post to save yourself the 200.00-300.00 that a badge-less grille would cost.



- remove grille from car

- remove stock mesh, 6 clips on the back of the grille

4750
4751

- use a dremmel, saw or whatever you want to cut with to cut the emblem out (does not have to be a clean cut)

4752
4753

- after the center emblem is cut out sand the "left overs" down flush w/ the rest of the grille

- scuff up the grille surfaces and paint, or take to a local body shop and have them paint it

-when the grille is dry re-install the mesh and clips

4754

- re-install into the car and your done

i had before and after pics but i can only upload 5 pics at a time so i cant put them in

[malloyboy1]

after pics

4755
4756

before
4757




sorry for the poor picture editing, not really sure what was going on with them

[Subie_sleeper]

Honest Bob and I put my new pads and rotors on on Sunday. My pedal is really soft now. I'm pretty sure we didn't get air in the lines since we never opened the system. We followed the Hawk break-in directions to the letter too. I'm not sure if the rotors take longer to break in than the pads or if I just need to get stainless lines to get better pedal response.

[Ender81]

Rob you should probably start a new thread for that sort of thing.

[IMPREZvWRX]

Rob you should probably start a new thread for that sort of thing.

Agreed. That is the exact opposite of what belongs in here.

To make my post on topic, make sure you bleed the lines in the correct order. Also, if you didn't open the bleeders or unscrew any lines, you shouldn't have introduced air to the lines when changing the pads anyway.

[awdrev]

I have a WRX sound tutorial if you'd like, post it all here? or make a new thread?

[Vypurr]

post here.

[awdrev]

56K - THERE'S A LOT OF PICS SO UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR PC TO BE STUCK FOREVER PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO SEE THIS POST


First of all this is a whole HOW TO for a full sound installation in a WRX. I was looking for a CLEAN SOUND with nothing huge, I wasn't lookign to spend a lot and I really wanted to keep a DECENT trunk space. This HOW-TO will include amp rack creation, wiring and just about everything you'd need to know about installation of everything INCLUDING Dynamat.

Electronic List:

* Alpine Amp - MRP-M500
Link
Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - MRP-M500 (http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-M500)

* Alpine Amp - 2/3/4 Way - MRP-F30
Link
Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - MRP-F300 (http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-F300)

* Alpine 12" Subwoofer - SWR-1242D
Link
Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - SWR-1242D (http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=SWR-1242D)

* Pioneer - Avic D3
Link
Pioneer USA - In-Dash Navigation (http://www.pioneerusa.com/PUSA/Products/Navigation/In-Dash/AVIC-D3)

* Rockford Fosgate - 1 Farad Capacitor -
Link
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=5&series_id=40&family_id=87&item_id=108310&locale=en_US&p_status=

* 6-1/2" Type R Alpine Component Set
Link
Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - SPR-17C (http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=SPR-17C)

* 12" Subwoofer Enclosure "Perfect Fit" for WRX
Made by Audio Integrations
Link
02-04 Subaru WRX/STI Sedan 12 Inch Perfect Fit Enclosure (http://www.audiointegrations.citymax.com/catalog/item/3595562/3210636.htm)

* Lots of cables!

Pics

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/100_4676.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/100_4670.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/100_4673.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/100_4675.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0052.jpg






--------------------------------------------------
The avic D3 install was done months ago, it's really pretty straight through. Make sure you get the harness and your job is a lot easier, to ensure a full connection I actually soldered all the wires to the harness that I bought and everything worked out fine.

AMP RACK:

I originally had intended two boards, kinda like making a "L" shape. However, after cutting down the first board I realized that it's much better to use the METAL BACKBOARD to hold the rack. In addition, I now have access to the spare tire since it was not going to be bolted to the trunk metal blocking the access. I used plywood and the final board was made out of 3/4" MDF. I tried to mount it in a very strong spot. You can see how I bolted it right onto the metal board and it's definitely going no where!

PICS

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/100_4665.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/100_4666.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/100_4664.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/100_4667.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/100_4669.jpg


AMP INSTALLATION DESIGN:

I was picky with how I wanted everything to look. I really liked a symmetric look since there was two amps and I could put the capacitor in the middle of them. Check out the pics for the slow built up of the rack itself. Please note that the rack was actually WRAPPED with "stock" looking carpet. This material I actually bought it from Audio Integrations when I got the enclosure, it was 10 dollars for a yard and now you can see that the trunk will look "stocK" carpeted and I wouldn't have to deal with different colors, etc etc

PICS

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0003.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0006.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0007.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0011.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0012.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0013.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0015.jpg


INITIAL DRAFT OF THE FINAL OUTCOME

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0020.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0021.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0022.jpg


WIRING:
I only used high quality wiring. I had 4 Gauge wires from the battery to the capacitor and at the same time I had 8 Gauge for the amps. If your IQ is positive you can see how I actually ran the wiring, I used a distribution block with 60 AMP fuses to power both amps from a single cable that came out of the capacitor. I grounded the system to bolts in the backseat, it was hard to do but so far the sound is clean with no interruptions and/or distortion. In addition, I made sure to leave enough wiring in everyangle of the installation just in case I ever need to pull something further. All cables should have an extra 6-7 Inches from both ends. All Connections were Soldered and wrapped to ensure a full connection, I hate ****TY JOBS!



PICS

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0026.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0030.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0060.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0063.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0062.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0074.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0079.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0089.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0090.jpg



SUB ENCLOSURE AND SUBWOOFER:
The audio integration box was really good. It allowed me to maintain the "stock" look I was looking for and it also fit without any problems. The only problem I ran to was when I couldnt' find the hole in the trunk. It turns out that there wasn't a "BLACK" sticker but it was rather covered with some foam protectant from Subaru's Manufactury, needless to say I was glad I had to do no modifications whatsoever to it so it could fit my trunk. As far as the subwoofer, it's dual coned so it did come with the banana split connectors. Overall the TYPE R is excellent on the sound and the weight for such subwoofer. I took pics of everything, look for the final details in the end pics.

PICS

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0055.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0053.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0054.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0105.jpg


I CAN'T FIND THE ****ING HOLE PIC!!!!!!

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0095-1.jpg

Ah....... now that's where it was....

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0140.jpg


Speaker Setup / Mounting:
I think this was the biggest pain and I'll explain how I did it.

A) Tweeters: The tweeters that come with the set are amazing, but neither of the mounts that came with the set worked for the doors. I decided to use the "stock" mounts but dump the "stock" tweeters. From Subaru, the tweeters are actually screwed in the back, I couldn't do that with the new ones so I used Industrial Loctite. Please check the pics for more details.

TWEETER CONFIGURATION:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0120.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0117.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0118.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0121.jpg




B) Speakers: This was the biggest pain no doubt. First, I bought the "mounting kit" from IAPerformance.
LINK
Subaru speaker adapter plates 6.5 Front Universal Adapter Ring Set-

Subaru 99-06 IA Performance (http://www.iaperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=44_45_54_56&products_id=1482)

However, these mounts actually broke 10 minutes after I put the actual speakers on them. Now, their customer service was amazing and offered a free replacements but I just simply didn't trust it. I went old school and bought some MDF to cut. Please check the pics for more details, note that with the 3/4" MDF and the speaker itself, everything clears without a single issue. Oh man I was so relieved =D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0082.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0083.jpg

After 10 minutes.....

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0129.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0127.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0133.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0134.jpg

I used the other adaptors as the design for the new MDF cut

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0136.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0135.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0137.jpg



C) Crossover Networks: These crossovers were simply mounted into the door covers. They were glued by loctite, check the pics for the separate bottles and how the combinations bonds tightly. I'd highly recommend my choice of location as it does not hit ANYTHING once you assemble the door together again. The sound itself is really good and I'm very pleased.
PICS

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0125.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0124.jpg


DYNAMAT

The material itself is so good. I can't stress how much of a difference Dynamat made when it came to the bass kick. I'd highly highly highly RECOMMEND to at least dynamat the trunk and where the spare tire is. I did the trunk and the front door the best I could, it's actually hard to the the doors so I'd recommend taking your time. Use scissors to cut the material, but in the trunk, there's minimal cuts as you can put a layer down and press down.

PICS

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0145.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0146.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0147.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0149.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0154.jpg


FINAL PICS OF ALL SETUP -

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0148.jpg

(PLEASE NOTE HOW I ACTUALLY SPRAY PAINTED THE MOUNTS TO HELP WITH THE CORROTION, IT'S HIGHLY RECOMMENDED YOU DON'T LEAVE THE BARE WOOD BY ITSELF WITHOUT ANY

PROTECTION)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0150.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0151.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0152.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0167.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0144.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0141.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0143.jpg




And finally....

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0163.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0166.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/awdrev/WRX%20SOUND/DSC_0165.jpg



My hands are still hurting.... but hey, it looks amazing!
Thanks for the input guys! =D

[TROLL]

honestly it would make more sense to have this stuff organized into each of their own threads... like the rest of the forum is.

[JBWRX06]

Could anyone please help me find a how to install a greddy full auto turbo timer! Thanks John