I need inspection

[olmytsi]

Hey,

A friend of mine needs inspection and his car wont pass. If you got the hook up, let me know via pm or aim.

thanx

[markley02]

Same here. A buddy of mine cant get his RX-7 to pass in PA.

[04 Turbo Spec]

the EPA came up with the new test, you have to have a mechanic clear all your engine codes and then u have to drive for like 45mins following specific instructions(depending on the make of the car)
like drive at 37mph for 13 mins and then stop and idle for 17 mins
accelerate to 58mph and hold speed for 13mins. doing this clears and resets all the engine codes so your car can pass.
and if u slack off and mess somehting up u have to do it all over this is the only way to fool the test


we have a family friend who is a mechanic and me an my bro both have highly modified cars to we both had to do our on set of driving tests. u can pay the mechanics to do it for u, or u can just do it your self.

[Chair-Force]

One of my good friends is a tech at firestone. He does like 5 inspections a day and has never heard of that test, also its not mentioned on the Drive Clean PA website. Not sure how that would work since the OBDII computer controls your emissions sticker issue btw your shop and the state DOT. Issuing a emission sticker without the computer giving a passing sniffer test or passing OBDII test is a serious no-no that can make the tech lose his inspection license if/when caught. Also the shop and the tech get to pay a big ass fine to the great state of PA. I know that if your mechanic "proves" that you spent atleast $150 on emissions related repairs after failing emissions twice, you can get a one year emissions waiver.

idk, maybe your mechanic is more in the know than mine or he just likes driving your car.
:rolleyes:

edit: 04 Turbo Spec, i totally read your post wrong, ignore me, ty.

:wiggle:

[Jeffros Spec V]

Dude, if anybody ever let my car idle for 17mins I would beat their ass.

[04 Turbo Spec]

Dude, if anybody ever let my car idle for 17mins I would beat their ass.


i just made up numbers because i didn't feel like getting the the paper but the numbers are odd like that

y would u beat there ass

[04 Turbo Spec]

One of my good friends is a tech at firestone. He does like 5 inspections a day and has never heard of that test, also its not mentioned on the Drive Clean PA website. Not sure how that would work since the OBDII computer controls your emissions sticker issue btw your shop and the state DOT. Issuing a emission sticker without the computer giving a passing sniffer test or passing OBDII test is a serious no-no that can make the tech lose his inspection license if/when caught. Also the shop and the tech get to pay a big ass fine to the great state of PA. I know that if your mechanic "proves" that you spent atleast $150 on emissions related repairs after failing emissions twice, you can get a one year emissions waiver.

idk, maybe your mechanic is more in the know than mine or he just likes driving your car.
:rolleyes:

edit: 04 Turbo Spec, i totally read your post wrong, ignore me, ty.

:wiggle:

no the car stil gets hooked up to a computer and the car is started and i idles then they shut it off like running for 2 mins.

the mechanic does everything perfectly leagal

[ZQ8Rado]

my dad owns a shop in Bristol, and the test 04 turbo spec was talking about is true. you dont have to do it, but your supposed to run the car like he said for a certain amount of time and speed. every car has a different test. its called a drive cycle. i'll have to talk to my dad and see if he can give all TST members a discount for state emissions and inspections if anyone would be up for it. let me know ill post up some prices.

[Gsxtacyno2]

my dad owns a shop in Bristol, and the test 04 turbo spec was talking about is true. you dont have to do it, but your supposed to run the car like he said for a certain amount of time and speed. every car has a different test. its called a drive cycle. i'll have to talk to my dad and see if he can give all TST members a discount for state emissions and inspections if anyone would be up for it. let me know ill post up some prices.

i am a few weeks short of getting my emission license. older cars HAVE to be put on a dyno and ran for a certain amount of time at a certain speed. newer cars i forget the year but all the tech would do is plug in and read codes and the check engine light cant be on.

[ZQ8Rado]

well beings your just few weeks away from getting your license you should know that 96 and newer cars should be taken through whats called a "drive cycle", and then hooked up to the emission machine through their OBDII port and can have a minimum of one code in the computer(not a major code). 95 and older cars get put on a dyno and ran at a certain speed (about 15MPH) and also have to have an exhaust probe inserted into the tail pipe and be running clean to pass. but you knew that right? and also all cars dont HAVE to be tested for emissions, if your car has under 5,000 miles put on within a year you can be eligable for an exempt sticker

P.S.
I am nowhere near getting my license and i know this.

[G1GSX]

older awd's just get a rev test no dyno for us :D or computer hook up

[igo4bmx]

i thought this was an interesting read if people are trying to pass anyways

Well I got back from emissions testing today and after sweating and being worried about it, I passed with FLYING COLORS. I will explain the process and how you can up your chances to pass your turboed catless honda. This is for OBD I and older cars only since 96 and newer they will check for ODBII codes. OBDII can do this, but you must be able to pass the codes check and you will have to revert to stock as far as injectors as concerned.

First off here is my setup. It really doesn't matter that much, but for those wondering:
95 OBDI B18b
t3/t04e 57trim
3" full exhaust with only a 24" resonator no cat no muffler
external dump tube (doesn't matter since they won't boost it)
Tuned with Uberdata EMS w/ wideband


Idle test the car

This could be the deciding factor wheather you pass or fail the emissions test. At all stations if you have "expensive" or "big" rims you will not be required to do the rolling test and only have to idle while they take readings. This means either borrow/rent/steal (ok don't steal) but do whatever you can do get some nice big rims maybe even some low profile tires to add to the fact that you won't be able to "fit" on the rollers. All I did was tell the guy at the station that I don't want to scratch my rims and he said "Ok, we'll just do the idle test"


tune for 14.7 AFR

Stoichiometric burning of gasoline is at 14.7:1. This means you will get the most complete burn at this ratio. If you have a wideband or are able to get a quick tune for idle get you AF's to that ratio for your entire vaccum part of the map. If you can you could just plug in your stock O2 sensor and run in closed loop so the car will aim for that reading at all times. Obviously you won't be able to boost, but that is the least of your worries.


Run the lowest octane possible

I know we want to run the highest octane possible in order to prevent possible detonation, but again we won't be boosting and only trying to pass emissions. I ran my car dry on 93 and filled up with less then a quarter tank of 87 octane (you'll see why 1/4 tank later). The lower octane burns faster and more complete then higher octane. So this does mean it will produce less emissions. Although, it won't be too significant it can be the difference of a couple points on the test.

Put in 1 quart of denatured alcohol

I was able to find denaturated alcohol at homedepot in the paint thinner section in big blue quarts. I bought 2 for $10 and left the store. The alcohol burns very very clean, so we add about one quart for about 1/5 of tank left. If you fail and not by much go ahead and add more alcohol. The disadvantage is that the alcohol is corrosive to your fuel lines and anything it touches. It sucks the water out of anything so after you pass emissions run the car dry again and fill up with that good ol expensive octane. It won't damage the car if you leave it in for a couple days, but don't let it sit for weeks.


Adjust timing

I have Uberdata and was able to adjust my timing through the program. If you take out timing you will reduce NOx, but increase HC's. If you add timing you reduce HC's by providing a more complete burn, but increase NOx emissions. If you fail the first time and notice one is higher then the other then adjust accordingly and you will notice better results. I adjusted the timing by retarding it 2.5 degrees.

Remove the PCV system

All that is needed is to remove the line going from the PCV valve to the block. Let it dump to the atmosphere. We do this to prevent any blow by from entering the combustion chamber so we can eliminate hydrocarbons. Although not good for the environment the emissions people will not check this.


Change you oil

This is very minor, but again can help with a few points if you are close. With new oil you reduce contaminants. Simple.


Other ways:

Every state will be different on these rules and regulations so search on their websites or visit a testing station. The laws state that if you spend a certain amount in repairs to your vehicle you will become exempt forever to take emssisions for that vehicle. If you "know" a mechanic you need him to write you up a ticket in the amount or greater for the "job he did"....get it . Another way is to qualify for race car status. Now, I talked to several people on the phone about this and it seems like there are no set restrications on mileage or anything and nothing happens to your insurance. The only qualifcation is them judging your car. You must take pictures of your car showing that it is a race car IE: the giant turbo, NOS, stickers, gutted interior etc etc. Send those in with the affidavid and wait for a response. There are other ways to route around emissions, but I suggest readinging up and finding what may suit you best.

Here were my results

HC (hydrocarbons) - Standards: 220
Readings : 145

CO (carbon monoxide) - Standards: 1.2
Readings : .2

C02 (carbon dioxide) - Standards: n/a on idle test
Readings : 13.0 (still very low)


Try to do as many of these recommendations as possible. If you skip or cant do a few you will still probably pass, but don't skip too many as they only help your score. The biggest part is probably to run the idle test and not the loaded test. Although I believe I would have passed the load test because of these extremely low numbers it's still a lot easier to pass at idle. I'd like this thread to be about other ideas that may work and I'll be able to add then to this first post for anyone to view.

For all those in CALI sorry, but as you know any modification you do without a carb legal sticker is not going to pass. Plus the emissions are stricter I believe.

[ZQ8Rado]

i dont know about all that, but i do know that having big rims does not make you exempt from the rolling test. the inspector has the right to deny you from the rolling test if he feels its unsafe, but having big wheels wont do anything. why would they get scratched? theres a bunch of laws with inspecting cars and theres ways to bend them. by law no car that is lowered aftermarket should be legal on the street. theres soo much to type i dont feel like getting into it.

[karl]

friend of mine needs a pass on inspection too...any help?

[wgknestrick]

Another easy way to pass is to find someone with the same car as you and a friendly shop. Install your ECU into that stock car so that the VIN # travels to it for ODB2, perform inspection routine, then have new sticker installed on modified car.

Swap back ECU and done ;)

Bill

[ZQ8Rado]

or you can just go to a shop that bends the rules. Karl if your friend lives in jersey too he'll have to get it inspected there.