Renegade_'s S14 - Now fixed, dyno coming soon [Archive] - TriStateTuners.com

Renegade_

10-30-2006, 11:29 AM

Yeah, the RS is gone, replaced with something that has some balls...

- Nismo metal head gasket
- Nismo 555cc injectors
-300zx mafs
-Jim wolf retuned ECU
-Koyo Radiator w/ Nismo Rad cap
-Dual FAL electric Fans with variable thermal controller located in the engine bay.
-Greddy Intake
-Greddy Intercooler including all pipes and couplers
-Greddy BOV
-Nismo Clutch
-HKS Hi Power Exhaust including 3inch downpipe and 3inch turbo elbow.
-HKS Step 2 Cams 264/272
-300zx Throttle Body
-Turbo XS Manual Boost Controller (Has Apex'i AVCR solenoid and wiring, just no faceplate, if you have one PM me... last one was stolen out of car)
-JIC-Magic FLTA1-US Suspension
-300zx Front brakes aluminum.
-5lug swap
-98 240sx SE VLSD
-Slotted and Cross drilled rotors

Misc junk inside...
- Personal Steering wheel
-SPI Oil pressure, Air Temp and Voltage gauges (need boost gauge asap)
-Apexi Turbo Timer

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/o0amazinazn0o/DSC04092.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/o0amazinazn0o/Car6.jpg

Old car:
Bought my car last year as a major upgrade from my previous car in an attempt to get a car worth modding and just because I've always had a thing for subarus - so I found a classified ad on RS25 from compuvision. Saw the car, I knew I needed it... 2 weeks later it was mine. Where do I go from here? Who knows....

Current mods:

Motor/Exhaust:
Cobb Intake
Borla UEL Headers
Tanabe Axleback

Drivetrain:
Stage I ACT Street Clutch
Kartboy Shortshifter

Suspension/Wheels+Tires/Brakes:
Tein Type HA Coilovers (7k/6k)
Cobb Street Pads (dusty as hell)
Prodrive P1s @ 17x7
Falken FK452 @ 215/45/17 (I was going to go with 225...but now looking back I am glad I didn't - I would rub like hell)
Kartboy Endlinks

Exterior
Completely Debadged
STi version 1-4 rear bumper with spats (those versions are the same)

What do I have that I haven't put on yet

Tic Fender Braces (group buy a while ago)

Upcoming plans -
... Anything, Any plans for a swap are kind of in the back of my mind now as I realize the practicality of doing something like this aren't really too good.

I'm in college and can't afford to throw out over 3 grand to get it moving properly. My only other choice is to make it stop, turn, and improve the driver mod. Oh and fix all the **** thats wrong with it right now.

Torn Axle Boot
Fuel Level Sensor Shot
Rear 02 malfunction
Cat is shot (probably because rear 02 isn't reading right)
Gotta do timing belt, water pump, and timing belt tensioner...
Needs alignment
Needs winter tires

Yeah, thats a good bit of cash.

teh DIRT

10-30-2006, 11:36 AM

ej20g eh? they are closed decks? thats cool.

Renegade_

10-30-2006, 11:45 AM

teh DIRT

10-30-2006, 11:47 AM

thats good to know.

Evo8kid

10-30-2006, 01:49 PM

Another nice car, good luck in the future

Renegade_

12-05-2006, 07:23 PM

Update for the first time...

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/139/spokestj4.jpg
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/2747/standingbf7.jpg
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1598/tirestreadaa4.jpg

Going on tomorrow!

Falken FK452 @ 215/45/17

CHAOS

12-05-2006, 11:37 PM

take pix that should look good man

Renegade_

12-06-2006, 05:59 PM

http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/8610/newwheelsxr2.jpg

With crappy camera...

And yes, that is a dent - some ****er hit me while I was in class and decided to leave

69 Mach 1

12-06-2006, 07:36 PM

Looks good nice wheels

Renegade_

12-06-2006, 07:37 PM

Looks good nice wheels
The photo makes it look like crap - they look so much better in real life.

And I am sure as hell glad I didn't go 225/45/17... With 215s I am already pretty damn close to rubbing on the strut.

lagos

12-06-2006, 10:42 PM

closed deck, forged pistons - the rods and crank are basically that of what STis normally have. But the stock block can take up to (I said up to, not saying the car won't break at that boost, it will if you screw anything up) 30PSI in stock form and is rated @ 280HP stock (which is basically 300 because of the gentlemans agreement)

thats a little misleading. motors don't support any specific psi.thats all up to the turbo your use, and i doubt the stock one on there can run that much boost. another thing too, is that psi is just for bragging rights. in reality you want to run a big turbo with as little boost as possible to reach your target hp goal, in order to keep detonation in check. you would need a really huge turbo to run something like that without detonation, and even then, you would have to invest a good chunk of change into the car.

sorry, not trying to be rude, just wanted to point that out.

i like the new rims btw. they look awesome. good choice.

Renegade_

12-06-2006, 10:54 PM

Rude? That's not rude at all, I just really wasn't explaining my reasoning behind saying that the motor would support 30 PSI (support used relatively).

I know exactly what you mean - When I mentioned the motor can support that much boost on stock block I meant with proper supporting mods, and of course with a turbo that can do that kind of boost without going to **** after a certain RPM.

I know that you can't run that kind of boost on a VF22/23 (stock turbos for the EJ20G), however the blocks have been tested to be able to run that high of boost. Same goes for the EJ22 (2.2L motor on turbo legacies). If you get forged internals you can throw a crapload of boost at that motor all day long because of it's closed deck nature (again, this is not the ONLY reason why a block might be able to withstand high boost, but the natural ability to hold it with proper support is there)

Personally, I would never consider running that high of a boost, I was just giving a reference point as to the absolutely nearly indestructible aspects of the motor (notice the word nearly, they were the hub of subaru tuning in japan for years for a reason but still obviously need major support to run something like that).

When I made the claim of "being able to hold 30PSI" it was being made with the inference that all other aspects of the motor were being covered, and an absolutely perfect tune for it was implied... Basically unrealistic, but it is possible without opening a stock EJ20G.

Reason why I want to get an EJ20G is because it is one of the oldest subaru motors out there, makes same if not more power than other stock 2.0L STis, oh and did I say it was older and that means cheaper?

CHAOS

12-06-2006, 11:02 PM

dude the car looks great...

lagos

12-06-2006, 11:13 PM

If you get forged internals you can throw a crapload of boost at that motor all day long

thats not true at all. while forged internals are stronger then cast, but its still not a bulletproof motor that and do whatever you want to do. it all comes down to one thing...... HEAT. heat caused knock, and knock blows motors. even forged ones. the more boost you run, the more heat you push. so basically what im trying to say is..... that no motor can do any type of psi all day long. it all depends on the turbo and how much heat it pushes. hell, you can probably run 30psi on a stock civic motor, but the turbo would have to be so big that it wouldnt fit in the engine bay, to support that much boost while keeping intake temps down.

Renegade_

12-06-2006, 11:25 PM

Agreed, and that is where my statement is kind of flawed from a practicality standpoint. I was just tossing that statement out there to indicate a level of strength a closed deck STi motor possesses as a point of reference for people foreign to subarus even though it might be a slight alienation of practicality :roll:

CHAOS

12-06-2006, 11:31 PM

wtf is closed deck? lol

Renegade_

12-06-2006, 11:35 PM

Open Deck
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/amorton-25rs/engine/engine012.jpg
Semi Closed Deck (ignore the crack, it's a blown STi motor)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/amorton-25rs/engine/engine015.jpg
Closed Deck
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/amorton-25rs/engine/enginetest.jpg

ILikeItSideways

12-07-2006, 12:30 PM

I love your car
Love the wheels

Keep us posted on the progress! I'm curious to see how its going to turn out.

Renegade_

02-01-2007, 10:32 PM

I got my v2 STi rear bumper on a while ago (v1-4 is the same, regardless). So tonight I was bored as sin (again. :\ ) so I went looking around the backroads and found an abandoned factory. Yes, it's a cheap camera which doesn't give me the option to extend exposure so the lighting is crappy and the camera is grainy (not my camera, roomates...)

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/4375/assshotfaryl5.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=assshotfaryl5.jpg)
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/172/rearspatscloseyi1.th.jpg (http://img521.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rearspatscloseyi1.jpg)
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/8753/rearspatsnormalqe2.th.jpg (http://img518.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rearspatsnormalqe2.jpg)
http://img358.imageshack.us/img358/5869/sideshotleftrx8.th.jpg (http://img358.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sideshotleftrx8.jpg)

No manipulation was done, just uploaded em.

Renegade_

04-17-2007, 03:23 PM

Damage report:

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/3204/dscf9893mb0.th.jpg (http://img241.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf9893mb0.jpg)

Kind of hard to see but the actual pressure plate inner pieces lost temper and bent... the fins to the right of the picture are like 2mm higher than the left side. How did it happen? I have no clue...

Here is a better picture of the damage from another angle.

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6838/dscf9895db1.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf9895db1.jpg)

And the clutch disk which I originally though would be thrashed actually has some miles left on it considering I ran it for a crapload of miles....

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/4863/dscf9896fg3.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf9896fg3.jpg)

Keeping the same clutch. ACT Stage I pressure plate and Stage I clutch disk. Stock flywheel, no point in changing that. However the new clutch disk will be a bit more stiff, the inside springs of the clutch (center hub, whatever you want to call it) are a higher tension spring and are yellow unlike these purple ones.

Too much money to spend... goddamn.

And props to Ryan @ 1320, had my motor out in no time and even removed my AC for me, and is gonna do the motor mounts while the motor is out of the car :cool:

CHAOS

04-17-2007, 03:25 PM

no point in changing the flywheel? that mod owns.

Renegade_

04-17-2007, 03:26 PM

no point in changing the flywheel? that mod owns.
No point because teh wallet doesn't allow it. I don't feel like asking my parents for money to fix my own problem :(

I was going to grab a lightweight 2 piece flywheel from Supraru but then I realized I needed to buy a new pressure plate (which is now in the mail...) so that was like 280 bills down the drain...

Honest_Bob

04-17-2007, 05:32 PM

I saw this beauty down at Area1320. The car is in pretty nice shape. Ryan will have you running like a champ again. :wink:

Renegade_

04-17-2007, 05:52 PM

I saw this beauty down at Area1320. The car is in pretty nice shape. Ryan will have you running like a champ again. :wink:
The rear half of the car, the paint is immaculate and isn't ****ty subaru paint. The front is full of chips, you must not be looking hard enough or only looking at the ass of the car :roll:

And the place where I ordered the pressure plate from says that they didn't ship it out monday and that it went out today due to "windy weather" and "shipping difficulties" :roll:

lagos

04-18-2007, 12:33 PM

ask them to have your flywheel resurfaced. it only costs about 30bucks or so to do.

Renegade_

04-18-2007, 12:45 PM

ask them to have your flywheel resurfaced. it only costs about 30bucks or so to do.
I don't think area1320 has a re-surfacing machine, but I am sure that if I give ryan a call he can figure something out since I really don't have a mode of transportation today to run up there and grab it myself.

On another note: I'm going to broke as hell when all this is said and done.

RyanG

04-21-2007, 02:10 AM

All better :) hope your trip home was good buddy

jspek

04-21-2007, 03:42 AM

welcome to the money pit son.

Renegade_

04-21-2007, 01:02 PM

All better :) hope your trip home was good buddy
Yeah it was, the clutch feels SO much better than before. Getting it fixed really confirmed my suspicion that something was wrong with the clutch all along as now it feels proper with a proper engagement.

I <3 how this thing feels now.

Great props to Area1320 for being the most convenient place I've dealt with in car repair.

Oh, and the motor mounts (group N) now rattle my doorcards at idle (not saying this as a bad thing, just giving an NVH indicator). It feels like the entire front end is more defined now. The previous ones were definitely shot.

Renegade_

07-20-2007, 07:21 AM

http://www.rs25.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=14496&sort=1&cat=5&page=2

So uh, these are sitting in the garage right now - They'll be on the car this weekend...

Finally get to replace OEM suspension @ over 100k... Lets just say everything was blown.

JET02WRX

07-20-2007, 07:28 AM

Picture no worky for me.

Renegade_

07-20-2007, 07:30 AM

Ok, what the hell - give me a sec...

Yeah, it worked for me because I was logged in at RS25, I'll just throw up a link

Renegade_

07-26-2007, 10:46 PM

Install fun time

http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/2465/dsc01686qe5.jpg
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/8050/dsc01696km6.jpg
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/5551/dsc01692vr9.jpg

We also broke 4 ratchets on 1 bolt and bent a steel rod. Far left the internals shattered, left center the stud broke, right center the interals broke too and it doesn't make ratchet noises anymore, far right simply just exploded. I then went out and got a craftsman lifetime guarantee ratchet. It did it's job. Barely.

Now I have to do timing belt, replace the front right axle, replace the cat, fuel level sensor, and rear 02. Then that will be all the repairs it needs for a long time. Everything seems to be hitting the fan right now :\ I get paid tomorrow though so no worries.

Signatus230

07-26-2007, 10:48 PM

Hehe... the god bolt and the baby jesus bolt... good times, good times.

Renegade_

07-26-2007, 10:50 PM

God bolt was the top bolt in the picture with the coil intalled.

The other bolt we hit with a sledgehammer for about...

an hour? Didn't work so we kept hitting it more. Then it finally came out.

JET02WRX

07-26-2007, 11:00 PM

After I broke 1 wrench trying to get mine off last year, it was time to take it to my pops, for sweet air tool action... F- those damn bolts..

lagos

07-26-2007, 11:11 PM

thats cause you need a 1/2 ratchet for jobs like that. or the big braker ones they sell.

JET02WRX

07-27-2007, 07:01 AM

Tried that... AND i stood on the damn bar... :mrgreen:
60K miles in PA salty roads = stuck-ass bolts.
A nice compressor and a good set of air tools will be my next 'garage' mod.

CHAOS

07-27-2007, 07:15 AM

air tools... god damn what would i do without air tools... lets just say you can dismantle and mx6 very easily with a cutoff wheel on an air grinder.

Renegade_

07-27-2007, 10:56 AM

Now I gotta replace the passenger side front axle - anyone ever done it?

Axle seems more intimidating than coilovers for some reason.

CHAOS

07-27-2007, 11:03 AM

axle can be a huge pain in the ass without air tools... you may even need an air chissel to break it free from the hub

Renegade_

07-27-2007, 11:06 AM

I think factory torque spec is 137 +/- 13 ft/lbs - ScubaSteve on here has a compressor but no air gun so I can't say I have access to one right now.

Anyone have experience with axle replacement that wouldn't mind helping out sometime to do this?

This is the dilemma:

1. Got coilovers installed - need an alignment bad.
2. Needs an axle so I can't get it aligned until it is in there.
3. Needs timing belt and I am gonna get it done at 1320 - can't drive it up there since it needs alignment and I don't want to pay towing fee.

So looks like I have to do axle myself, get it aligned, then drive to 1320...

Car might be down for a little while since alignment won't happen next week since Vince @ R/T is on vacation and I am not giving my car to Bob the mechanic at Generic Tire Place, Inc.

Anyone know of a good alignment place around Collegeville, Royersford, Schwenksville, etc?

Now that I think about it... this is the first time owning the car for a year that I've had to do any kind of significant maintennance on it. Can't complain I guess.

Renegade_

07-27-2007, 11:31 AM

Also, my plate fell off the other day (jdm bumpers have no/crappy brackets).

Time for a vanity plate - what should I get?

CHAOS

07-27-2007, 11:47 AM

"renegay"

lagos

07-27-2007, 12:03 PM

axel is super easy...and no you dont need air tools.

the trick is to go to your hardware store... in the plumbing section, they sell iron piping of any length. buy a nice 4-5foot one. then you stick it on the end of a 1/2in ratchet. it will take off anything.

"Swap FND" ?

ScubaSteve

07-27-2007, 05:43 PM

Get the parts tomorrow and we'll get it done on Sunday. We're not using my rachets though, I only have one left.

Plastik Racer

07-28-2007, 02:32 PM

the axles aren't to bad on the scubies. Just need a pinch pin to pop out the old one thats atached to the tranny then pray the bolts for the hub come off. I know how bolts love to freeze on our GC's. Did my front ones last year the ones I put on are huge made the stock ones look like baby axles.

RyanG

07-28-2007, 02:52 PM

ok... easy Subaru axle replacement 101.

1- lift vehicle so your fat ass can squeeze under it.
2- remove wheel
3- remove hub nut.
4- pop lower control arm from hub and sway bar endlink
5- push axle pins from the trans stubs.
6- smack axle (if you are getting new ones) if you arent, put the nut back on backwards and hit it
7- take same fat ass and get some leverage to break ball joint loose from hub.
8- get a buddy to lift complete hub/brake assym out of the way while you pull the axle.
9- sit back and curse a bit.

installation is the same as removal. ALTHOUGH!!! the holes in the axles for the roll pins arent exactly dead center, they are off a hair. so make sure they go back in the right way.

Supraru

07-29-2007, 04:36 PM

Since you're getting an alignment:

Pop out the pin
take off the axle nut
disconnect the strut from the upright
take out axle and replace with new one.

This is the fastest easiest way to do it. you don't have to beat the ball joint off.

Renegade_

08-02-2007, 11:09 AM

.....

Renegade_

08-23-2007, 10:20 AM

Alright, I need opinions...

how should I set up the front end? won't be buying any of this for a while, just want opinions...

Option 1:
Version 3/4 STi front bumper with JUN lip - this is the car in my avatar
http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/aero-parts/gc8/front-lip.jpg

Version 5/6 STi front bumper with prodrive lip
http://verdugo.smugmug.com/photos/35965396-L.jpg

JDM Blingage... one with fogs one without
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/695/dscf01701ad0.jpg
http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/4236/annodizedsz6.jpg

Mature front end... Like I can ever get this for any kind of reasonable price, just throwing it out there...
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q154/4wdrift/cars/pimpGC8.jpg

What would you guys choose?

Vypurr

08-23-2007, 10:25 AM

V. 5/6 STi....Thats only if the mature front end is out of the question.

CHAOS

08-23-2007, 10:32 AM

5/6 w/prodrive

Snoozie

08-23-2007, 10:42 AM

V. 5/6 STi....Thats only if the mature front end is out of the question.

I concur. I like it both with and w/o the fog lights too.

Honest_Bob

08-23-2007, 10:45 AM

ver 5/6!!

xEJ20x

08-23-2007, 10:53 AM

ver 5/6!!

x123456

Renegade_

08-23-2007, 11:31 AM

P.S.

Art, if you see this, the powerFC does have a really good tune on it from the factory

http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66933

I wasn't making stuff up when I said that.

RayArroyo

08-23-2007, 11:56 AM

Version 5/6 STi front bumper with prodrive lip

auk113

08-23-2007, 12:29 PM

P.S.

Art, if you see this, the powerFC does have a really good tune on it from the factory

http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66933

I wasn't making stuff up when I said that.

From one PFC owner to another, they have really conservative tuning, for safe operations. Once you have everything in order i suggest to get it tuned by a pro. Some of the names that are good with :

Brian from MA-Motorsports (Power Excel dealer)
Evans-Tuning (soon to be Power Excel dealer)
RT-tuning (Power Excel dealer)

Signatus230

08-23-2007, 05:25 PM

Go Jun.

Renegade_

08-23-2007, 06:28 PM

Go Jun.
I actually stopped by RT today and asked them about the mature bumper...

And the jun one is WAY too expensive... No way. The lip isn't bad at all though pricewise so thats why I threw it up there

http://img02.shop-pro.jp/PA01006/329/product/759217_o2.jpg
I think that looks pretty badass.

Legacy kit....
http://img02.shop-pro.jp/PA01006/329/product/910434_o1.jpg

S.Milone

08-23-2007, 06:54 PM

Bite this car it is pretty sweet.
http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/4236/annodizedsz6.jpg

Also yes we are a Power Fc Dealer.

Signatus230

08-24-2007, 05:35 PM

I actually stopped by RT today and asked them about the mature bumper...

And the jun one is WAY too expensive... No way. The lip isn't bad at all though pricewise so thats why I threw it up there

http://img02.shop-pro.jp/PA01006/329/product/759217_o2.jpg
I think that looks pretty badass.

Ugh, those foglight covers are ugly as ****... bumper is nice though.

guesswho

08-24-2007, 09:55 PM

I don't like the C-West or the SYMS that much. If I didn't get the Ver5/6 bumper on a good deal I would have went with the Ver3/4. Both of them look nice, just depends on what you like though.

Renegade_

08-25-2007, 06:46 PM

Bad wheel bearing.

YAY!

Total money spent this summer:

Coilovers: 650
Alignment: 90
Timing Belt: 470
And soon to be wheel bearing: 300+ish

Yeah, this car won't be seeing any engine swappage action for a while...

Renegade_

09-24-2007, 01:04 PM

Can't use the front one yet since I don't have a turbo X-member but this just motivates me to get it done quicker...

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/8207/zerosportsiq.jpg

Renegade_

05-27-2008, 09:09 PM

Oh hay, um... No more RS... Don't have pictures of it in the driveway but I do have a modlist and sellers photos....

1995 S14 w/S14 SR20DET....

Trans was rebuilt like 2 weeks ago and has like <300 miles on it and motor has 50k I was told... Swapped in at 47k miles.

- Nismo metal head gasket
- Nismo 555cc injectors
-300zx mafs
-Jim wolf retuned ECU
-Koyo Radiator w/ Nismo Rad cap
-Dual FAL electric Fans with variable thermal controller located in the engine bay.
-Greddy Intake
-Greddy Intercooler including all pipes and couplers
-Greddy BOV
-Nismo Clutch
-HKS Hi Power Exhaust including 3inch downpipe and 3inch turbo elbow.
-HKS Step 2 Cams 264/272
-300zx Throttle Body
-Turbo XS Manual Boost Controller (Has Apex'i AVCR solenoid and wiring, just no faceplate, if you have one PM me... last one was stolen out of car)
-JIC-Magic FLTA1-US Suspension
-300zx Front brakes aluminum.
-5lug swap
-98 240sx SE VLSD
-Slotted and Cross drilled rotors

Misc junk inside...
- Personal Steering wheel
-SPI Oil pressure, Air Temp and Voltage gauges (need boost gauge asap)
-Apexi Turbo Timer

First order of business... Taking care of rocker panel rust, boost gauge/avcr, and electrical gremlins (all lights flicker in cabin when I try to start it and its a pain in the ass to start, takes like 2-3 tries now for some reason and the gauges reset when I kick the rats nest by the pedals... this things gonna be fun...)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/o0amazinazn0o/DSC04092.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/o0amazinazn0o/Car6.jpg

S4toSTI

05-28-2008, 10:06 AM

Thats a big change.

auk113

05-28-2008, 10:43 AM

you'll have a lot of fun with it, let me know if you need any help

is you car at R/T right now? i was there yesterday taking care of some business

Renegade_

05-28-2008, 11:49 AM

you'll have a lot of fun with it, let me know if you need any help

is you car at R/T right now? i was there yesterday taking care of some business
Nah, it was there yesterday. I saw your car on the dyno while I was there though.

The chassis is straight and the title is clean, there is just some rust I got to take care (higher mileage chassis) of before anything else.

Signatus230

05-28-2008, 06:10 PM

Hehe.

Yea, the rims do look terrible in that picture, maybe its cause they are cleaner? Shrug, the certainly didn't look that bad in person... I say use em till the tires are shot, then get some better rims.

Renegade_

05-28-2008, 06:32 PM

I was expecting the rims to be absolute garbage because they look like hell in the picture. They look like crap because of the glare. I saw em in person and was surprised that they don't look too bad. I don't know what I want to switch it up to but these are staying for a while because I would rather get the car 100% before worrying about wheels. Gonna go low offset 18s though if I do upgrade. I really would want the 5Zigen FN01R but then I would just be copying Auk113s setup... So i gotta see if I can get something original...

Dream rim would be TE37s in something like 18x10 +12 or so but where the hell is that kind of money gonna come from...

lagos

05-28-2008, 07:08 PM

Congrats, I never figured you for a 240 guy though.

Renegade_

05-28-2008, 08:40 PM

Congrats, I never figured you for a 240 guy though.
Me neither, but the thing is fun as hell. I miss the planted feeling of AWD but jesus christ the first time I got sideways... :cool:

I was always thinking about converting the RS to RWD to make up for lack of turbo and put more power to the ground, but I think that would have been bastardizing it so I never did it. Reason why I changed it up was because I was tired of the looming transmission failure that plagues RS owners if they decide they want to be more than ginger with their cars post swap (combination of no wheelspin and sharing the same ****ty design as the early 02 glass gearboxes) and the fact that swapping an RS wasn't cheap and realistically was never going to happen in my ownership of the car.

I sold my car to Ian, wait for a year and it will be turbo. The car was too good and I had a feeling that someone else could definitely turn it into a proper beast considering the condition it was in. This thing is a little worse for wear, but its all something a little time and labor on my part plus some paid labor (I can't weld) can't accomplish.

lagos

05-29-2008, 12:15 AM

You'll def get your hands dirty with this one. 240s are slight step above the dsm, but they can haul ass. You'll forget about that RS in no time.

Renegade_

05-29-2008, 12:21 AM

You'll def get your hands dirty with this one. 240s are slight step above the dsm, but they can haul ass. You'll forget about that RS in no time.

Oh trust me, I already did. The first day I got the car I was doing a quick 1-3 and all of a sudden all the electronics in the car turned off, motor, etc everything. I blew an ignition fuse on the first day and rattled an alternator cable off... It was a nice brutal intro to what no doubt will be more to come.... :lol:

I also realize subarus are pretty gay when it comes to turning up the boost. On the SR you can just turn it up and the ECU compensates... Do that on a suby and boom. I actually have no idea at what boost its set at but it feels like 12-13. I know you can't "feel" psi per say but I've gotten a ride in one at 17 and it definitely isn't that high and I know what they feel like at wastegate pressure. Its somewhere in there....

lagos

05-29-2008, 12:34 AM

Renegade_

05-29-2008, 08:14 AM

any idea what kind of power the car makes at the wheels?

you can turn up the boost on a subaru and the ecu will still compensate for it, up to a certain point. its just that subaru guys are all about "getting tuned", even if they install something as meaningless as an air filter.
Uh, no idea. There is a rwd/fwd dyno real local to me and they charge like 60 bucks for 3 runs so after I get some stuff squared away and know how much boost I am running I'll throw it on there. As of now I would say like 260ish wheel because of the cams but it runs out of breath real quick because of the stock T28...

Funny thing is it feels faster than my friends SRT that I drove that made 290 wheel at the time. Weight I guess and the fact that the car will almost hold first and hold second... in a straight line barely.

auk113

05-29-2008, 08:59 AM

if you get a powerFC and some 550cc injectors you can push that baby to 300rwhp. Corby did it on this setup the other day

auk113

05-29-2008, 09:00 AM

when i had that turbo on my s13sr i made 287hp 252tq at 13psi

Renegade_

05-29-2008, 09:51 AM

when i had that turbo on my s13sr i made 287hp 252tq at 13psi
Shouldn't it make a bit more with the cams? I got 555cc injectors in there already so I should be able to run like 16 psi if I wish, but I am not doing that yet since I don't have any means to monitor boost. I turned the boost controller to where the instructions said to put it right when you install it so I am guess it might be like 7psi right now. I'm content with that till I get some stuff squared away.

Renegade_

06-11-2008, 02:10 PM

Vtecepidemic

06-13-2008, 12:55 AM

http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/8610/newwheelsxr2.jpg

With crappy camera...

And yes, that is a dent - some ****er hit me while I was in class and decided to leave

i feel your pain with the dent... someone felt it upon themselves to let their cart full of **** fly down the entire parking lot and rail my car. Drive their car down... get the stuff and drive away. As some dick from my work watched the whole thing and didnt get the plates.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c269/Vought/1010071807.jpg

auk113

06-13-2008, 12:34 PM

Quick question, I know the oil filter I gotta use is from a 95 Sentra SE-R but what oil? I've been reading a lot that 10w30 syn in fine for an SR...

Does coolant matter? can I just throw in standard 50/50 premix? How many jugs of it would I need, does a koyo rad have a lot higher capacity?

stuff that i use

oil --> Mobile1 Synth 10w30
filter --> Mobile1 m103
coolant --> normal 50/50 mix
koyo--> just under 2 full jugs of liquid (one jug AF, 3/4 water)

lagos

06-13-2008, 12:42 PM

Anyone know why his 240 would have an rpm switch?

auk113

06-13-2008, 12:51 PM

Anyone know why his 240 would have an rpm switch?

what do you mean an rpm switch?

lagos

06-13-2008, 12:54 PM

An aftermarket box made by MSD. It triggers a circuit to come on at a certain rpm. People have used them for anything from V-tec controllers to nitrous switches. His car has one next to the ecu, but we forgot to investigate what it was wired to. Figured it might be common mod in the 240 scene.

auk113

06-13-2008, 12:55 PM

oh it might be trigering the vvt, if he is still on the stock ecu that might be there to change the vvt triger point

lagos

06-13-2008, 12:56 PM

oh it might be trigering the vvt

Thats possible. I know it was set at 3000rpm.

auk113

06-13-2008, 12:57 PM

Figured it might be common mod in the 240 scene.

not that common at all but interesting.

ScubaSteve

06-13-2008, 03:52 PM

oh it might be trigering the vvt, if he is still on the stock ecu that might be there to change the vvt triger point

He has a Jim Wolf tune.

Honest_Bob

06-13-2008, 05:10 PM

He most likely dosent have a VVL motor. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think they only made those in FWD versions.

Renegade_

06-14-2008, 01:00 AM

I don't think any variable cam timing would be turned on with the cams I have, at the size they are I am pretty sure the ECU wouldn't know how to compensate for em. I have a slanted valve cover S14 SR but I would think that at this point the cam advance would be disabled. I'll trace the wires tomorrow when I have the time but I think the box definitely works. The car has some slight (but noticeable) hesitation in the low RPMs (2-3k) but after 3k the car is smooth as butter. It is definitely being triggered and the electrical in the car still isn't 100%.

The only way I can really describe it is as if the car was running kind of rich (which it is no doubt) and bogging a bit but as soon as I pass 3k there is nothing so the switch is obviously turning something off. Lagos helped me re-solder some crappy connections and it bogs less so I think it just has something to do with ****ty grounds or the crappy wiring with the car in general.

lagos

06-14-2008, 11:18 AM

Renegade_

06-15-2008, 03:00 PM

I call dibs on that switch if it turns out its not being used for anything! :)

The low rpm bog is mostly because of....1. vented bov. 2. turbo lag. or 3. possibly a side effect of having a chipped ecu for bigger injectors.
Either way, you should go to phillydynoworks with me and do a few pulls. That would tell you exactly whats going on.

If its not being used for anything your first in line...

But first I need a coolant flush BAD. Rust left over from an old radiator is tainting the fluid. I posted this on zilvia just to be sure and haven't had any responses yet... I am just looking for someone to confirm what I think.

Alright, I think my radiator is rusty but I just want to make sure with you guys because I really don't need a blown headgasket right now...

When I bought the car there was a bunch of brown gunky stuff in the reservoir and as I drive it more and more I see why, the coolant right now is a brownish color with, after driving for a while, some muddy particulate substance on top. If it was oil, there wouldn't be chunks so to the best of my knowledge it is rust correct?

In addition, after the car sits for a while, the gunky rusty stuff on top of the coolant eventually sinks and when I stick my finger in the reservoir again I don't get "mud-like" substance instead just slightly browned coolant but it still looks like coolant.

So am I right in my assumption that this is rust? Rust would sink in coolant, right?

P.S. - This is with an SR + Koyo rad... Could the brown stuff be left over from an old radiator and just be getting in the coolant? After the crap sinks the coolant looks nothing more than tainted and isn't sludgey at all, it feels normal, just slightly brown.

auk113

06-15-2008, 05:13 PM

do a flush and you'll be alright

Renegade_

08-19-2008, 05:47 PM

Hitting up the dyno later this week - my ECU fried and I got my wiring harness re-done by Will so it doesn't happen again. Any guesses for power?

Roots factory will be doing the tuning/ecu work.

Turns out the wiring from the previous owner was so ****ty the ECU wanted to off itself because it couldn't take it anymore. I was cruising and the entire car shut off (blown ignition fuse). Everytime I tried to re-start it with a new fuse it would re-blow. Turns out ECU is fried and the wiring is ****ty (knew this from the start).

It will be retuned at roots factory hopefully come this friday?