how reliable are rotaries

[BMS]

how reliable are rotaries, any one have any info on there reliability. i want to buy a RX-7 probably a 1994. i am aiming for like 350 whp with a single turbo kit. also what r with the ports like race port or bridge port how important r they related to your horsepower. i went to RX-7 club but no one really gave me some good info

[Gorilla Unit 33]

turbotagteam is very knowledgeable with rotaries and also is wonner

[MPowerKai]

every rotory owner I talked to pretty much had the same thing to say to me. Have 6k in the bank just for the FD.

[CHAOS]

you need to be careful with these cars... they are all used and some have been abused pretty badly...

[ToyotaTat]

not from personal experience but i hear that their reliability is terrible and they're money pits

[wonner]

I'm gonna keep it simple: N/A=reliable FI=not so reliable

Most times the engine detonates due to owner error (maintenence, upgrading turbo without upgrading the fuel system, etc.)


As for ports: http://www.mazdarotary.net/porting.htm

Rx7club has the best info, but you're gonna have to search...few people are going to take the time to answer every question when its already in the database.

[Evo8kid]

i was talking to turbotagteam and i think he is going on his 4th motor install?

[BMS]

at wat HP do think a porting would be neccassary

[TurboTagTeam]

Porting is not necessary at any HP level. It is a very good way to make extra power. You can run a 600whp 13-b with stock ports. I put down over 400whp with stock ports. Allthough I would of made alot more power if my motor was agresssivly street ported. Street ported motors are awesome. THey are just a basic 13-b that just flow more air.

Race porting/bridge porting is totally differnt. It'd be like driving a dirt bike with an extreamly high powerband. You have no bottom end whatsoever. Race/bridge poring is done for racing were your at WOT or no throttle. This is were race rotories get their "brap brap brap" from.

Mazda kinda cut corners on the 13-B-REW so they could import it into the U.S. and pass the EPA's emmisions testing. Most of the problems are easily fixable.

1. The stock radiator SUCKS

2. The stock coolant temp gauge SUCKS

3. Many people have problems with the twin turbo system if not properly maintained. The turbos are controlled by a complex system of vacum lines, check valves, and silinoids. A problem with any of them will cause your boost pattern to go crazy.

4. The stock fuel pulsation dampiner is known to fail. This is were most of the engine fires come from.

5. THe stock fuel filter MUST be changed AT LEAST every year. (I lost an engine due to this)

6. The stock intercooler is useless, it's hidden behind the radiator so it gets no air flow and is extreamly small in size anyway. A aftermarket V-mount set-up is ideal IMHO.

7. You can not add a full exhaust to a stock FD. It will boost spike and detonate. The stock ecu can not se more than 12psi.

If you have an FD, you MUST own another car. A FD is not a daily driver. THink of it as a street legal Formula one car. IT needs alot of attention but when it's running right it can be unstopable in racing situations.

There is much more. PM me if you need anymore info.

[Cypher]

holy ****. that would totally make me against owning one!

[TurboTagTeam]

Well, I pretty much listed all the negatives. You want positives?

Probably the best handling sportcar EVER for it price range.

One of the best power/weight ratio cars EVER for it price range.

You get the looks and performance of a italian supercar for a fraction of the price.

You can confuce musclecar guys when you explain that you have no pistons

You only need 430-470whp to run 10's in the 1/4 mile

A replacement short block cost's 2000$ FROM MAZDA!!!!

You can shoot flames at your opponents though your exhaust while racing them on the highway.

[Zeropistonz]

These car ARE money pitts but are worth every penny spent if you truly are a rotorhead.

Not to be an ass but if you only have had your permit for 3 weeks an FD is NOT the car for you. An inexperienced driver w/ a high HP low weight rear wheel drive car is a recipe for disaster.

To own an FD at your age your would have to have some kind of racing experience (cars/karts), rich parents or a full time job and real knowledge of this car and most importantly control (no showboating). Again, not be sound like an ass but I have seen far too many of these cars destroyed by inexperience and there are less and less of these cars on the road.

As wonner said, these cars ARE reliable in N/A. Turbo are less reliable mostly bc people modify these more and dont know what they are doing.

Go w/ an FC. If you have a job and money to burn, get a turbo, but hold off on the modifications until EVERYTHING is in PERFECT running order (no exceptions). FB's are awsome too but its hard to find one in good enough condition to be a daily driver.

I dont want to tell you what car you can/can't get but you can always work yourself up to an FD. If you get one at this age/experience you will more then likly hurt or kill the car and/or yourself and others. And you wont be able to afford another one.

If you do have the rotorhead blood in you, you will be very happy w/ an FC. There is no other pleasure like driving a rotary.

my .02

-Zeropistonz


PS. Since when can a 13b get 600rwhp w/ stock ports? Most have trouble reaching that w/ half bridge and a decent size turbo

[Sphinx]

I agree with him /\ I own an FD as well. Not 4 newbs on the road that is a serious driving machine probably more unforgiving then a porsche.

[03.5MSP]

I would love to get an FD someday. I guess that will be after I build my MSP.

[RightHandDrift]

I have experience with 2nd and 3rd gen. Rx-7s. Basically, you get what you pay for. A decent FC will be $5000 plus. A cheap FD will be $10000 plus. A nicely modded FD will be $15000, and an excellent single turbo FD can be had for around $20000. My first car was an n/a 88 RX-7. All rotaries are finicky with maintenance, electronics, cooling, and boost. Everyone above me is correct. For your first car, I suggest buying a slow, cheap, simple sports car and learn to drive it fast. Preferably RWD. Do your homework on rx7club.com, you lazy bastard. Every possible topic is on there if you search.
I would say buy whatever you can comfortably afford, but RX-7s suck gas and you have insurance as well as maintenance. RX-7 owners are owned by their RX-7s, but they wouldn't have it any other way!

[Silverfc88]

:iagree: The FC owns me! But I love it.

[RightHandDrift]

can't wait till i get my license!! lol
Ticket to Germany = 650$
BMW rental car = 750$
map of the Eifil mountains = 10$
One lap around Nürburgring = Priceless



Oh, I just did this about 4 weeks ago...

Ticket to Germany = $750
BMW rental car (E46 vert) = $200
Tank of gas = $80
3 laps on the Nurburgring = $60
Turning all those laps on Gran Turismo 4 into reality = PRICELESS!

[Crzyguy972]

without reading this threa i owuldve thought rotoaries are more reliable then regular engines, but aparantly not

[Silverfc88]

They are when you take care of them and stock of course. EVERY old car has its problems. Alot of RX's are reaching its 20 year mark and you can't expect them to act like they came from the show room floor.

My Rex turns 20 next year. :)

[TalonTsi97]

They are when you take care of them and stock of course. EVERY old car has its problems. Alot of RX's are reaching its 20 year mark and you can't expect them to act like they came from the show room floor.

My Rex turns 20 next year. :)

hahah time to get some antique tags. (i forget the exact rules on actually doing it)

Cars looks great for its age thou, you should be proud.
sorry for the o/t

[Silverfc88]

Thanks, for being the original paint its not bad. Its time for a paint though. I don't know what the rules are to get Old car tags. Isn't there different kind of plates like anitque or classic? Or are they the same thing.

On topic: I Love Rotaries !!!!!!

[Shadow001]

As an FD owner, I can pretty much agree with all of the pros/cons listed earlier. They're incredible cars with a rich history and (unfortunately) a bad reputation. I picked mine up a year ago this week; it was modified but the owner was very meticulous with the maintenence and had reciepts for everything professionally installed at KD Rotary. I've put about 12,000 miles on it since then and have only had to deal with one major problem (turbo replacement.)

The FD isn't for everyone, they're very expensive to maintain and/or modify. Beyond that, the engine bay is hell to work in for anyone who's not experienced. I've got money in the bank specifically set aside for maintenence on this car when it breaks.

The negative factors are far outweighed by the positives, though. Just like anything else in life: The risk is worth the reward. There's really nothing like the attention you get on the road in an FD. Everyone's head turns.

Not to mention the fact that you're basically untouchable from a roll :)

[fuzionauto]

Rotaries can be very reliable if they are tuned right.

There are also differences between rotary models you should learn about.

The best setup for the money IMO is to buy a cheap FC prefferably with a blown engine and swap it for a 13b-RE JDM Cosmo engine. The RE motor has 33% larger ports than a FD and they are much more durable in stock form. Best of all the RE can be found for less than $2000 with low mileage if you look hard enough.

With heat always being an issue with rotaries an upgraded radiator, Intercooler, and oil cooler is a must for anything more than stock hp levels. I have also found that a slightly rich tune may lose you a few HP but go a long way in keeping the motor running cool and lasting.

Engine management plays a big role in keeping your rotary running strong, IMO the Microtech EMS systems work the best with the complex ignition (leading & trailing), staged fuel injection, and knock control. The Apexi Power FC has also yeilded good results for us and is very user freindly.

We have made over 400 whp with the RE on stock twins, and almost 500 whp with the Efini Turbo's (JDM).

Also checkout Atkins Rotary, KD Rotary (local) and rx7.com (Rotary Performance) these are the only 3 shops that I would trust although I'm sure there are others.

You are very fortunate that shops like these exist, in the mid 90's there wasn't a lot of knowledge about what worked and what didn't on rotaries, most racers that pushed the power on them ended up with countless failures, which lead to the horrible reputation that they still have plaguing them today. If we knew then what they know now that reputation wouldn't have been formed

[peteyturbo]

+1 for KD rotary, he has been the best rotary mechanic, engine builder around and had been doing it over 20 years..I'm good friends with him personally and have been for awhile..But I think the best bang for the buck setup is what I am running, 1 st gen GSLSE with 13b turbo swap..Turbo RX7's can be made reliable, but the most reliable will always be NA..Rotaries can be very reliable if they are tuned right.

There are also differences between rotary models you should learn about.

The best setup for the money IMO is to buy a cheap FC prefferably with a blown engine and swap it for a 13b-RE JDM Cosmo engine. The RE motor has 33% larger ports than a FD and they are much more durable in stock form. Best of all the RE can be found for less than $2000 with low mileage if you look hard enough.

With heat always being an issue with rotaries an upgraded radiator, Intercooler, and oil cooler is a must for anything more than stock hp levels. I have also found that a slightly rich tune may lose you a few HP but go a long way in keeping the motor running cool and lasting.

Engine management plays a big role in keeping your rotary running strong, IMO the Microtech EMS systems work the best with the complex ignition (leading & trailing), staged fuel injection, and knock control. The Apexi Power FC has also yeilded good results for us and is very user freindly.

We have made over 400 whp with the RE on stock twins, and almost 500 whp with the Efini Turbo's (JDM).

Also checkout Atkins Rotary, KD Rotary (local) and rx7.com (Rotary Performance) these are the only 3 shops that I would trust although I'm sure there are others.

You are very fortunate that shops like these exist, in the mid 90's there wasn't a lot of knowledge about what worked and what didn't on rotaries, most racers that pushed the power on them ended up with countless failures, which lead to the horrible reputation that they still have plaguing them today. If we knew then what they know now that reputation wouldn't have been formed

[KGParts]

Although Dave at KD is good, if you are looking a little more local, check out Jim at www.jprimports.com

400+ with twins and 500 with JDM twins? Sorry, but I am going to have to throw up a BS flag here...

[TurboTagTeam]

Highest power I know of out of a twin set-up is 421whp on 17psi w/ c16. This was done with BNR St3's. (GoodfellaFD3S on RX-7forum.com)

I'v never heard of anyone making anything close to 500hp on 99spec jdm turbo's.

Jim@JPR is defiantly the best around. He did all my work that I was too lazy to do.