TROLL
09-23-2006, 01:20 PM
Ok so I just spent quite a while figureing out how to do this myself, and wanted to share some photos and info with all of you in case you are ever in the position to change axle seals. Its really incredibly simple, but of course everything is easy as pie, the 2nd time around.
Lets start by showing a photo of the tools I needed but didnt have originally. I also could not have completed the job if I had not gone and picked these things up.
-2 foot prybar
-universal seal puller
http://www.bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/1.jpg
It is important to note that you want to use the least aggressive end of the seal puller (the more curved side) if possible, but I will get into that later.
I also needed:
-7/32 punch
-rubber mallet
Here are the replacement seals:
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/2.jpg
First I jacked up the front of the car as high as it would go because I knew I was going to try to fit a large prybar underneath. Then I pulled the tranny fluid drain plug and allowed it to 'drain'. It didnt drain all of the fluid since the front of the car was sky high, but it was enough that when working with the axles none was going to splash out at me unexpectedly.
Then I removed my front wheels, and then removed the 2 lower strut bolts that hold my knuckle onto my suspension, and the abs line and brake line. This allowed the hub to pivot out far enough that I would have enough room to slide the axle out of the transmission.
(*Please not that this next step is proper for pulling axles out of an STi transmission and may not apply to other cars which use a different type of axle/transmission attachment.*)
Then I took said prybar and slid it between the transmission housing and the lip of the green cv joint case, and leaned on it pretty hard until the axle popped out of the transmission.
(*I could have detached the control arm or taken the axle out completely, but I chose not to which is why I had to do what I am about to explain. so this next step may not apply to you.*)
My specific axle has an axle stub (pictured below). Once I popped the axle stub out of the transmission, I took a 7/32nds punch and tapped the lock pin out of the joint right before the green cv joint case. This is what holds the female axle end onto the male axle stub. Once this pin is out I was able to slide the axle off of the axle stub and move it to the side. Then I was able to freely pull the axle stub out of the transmission, revealing the axle seal which needed to be removed.
Here is the original seal in place:
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/3.jpg
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/4.jpg
(My replacement seals were actually different than the original ones, but that was a complication between using a 2006 STi transmission, 2004 Axle Stubs, and 2003 WRX axles... I will go into those differences in post #2 for those interested, but here I will keep it to just axle seal replacement).
So, now that you have the axle seal exposed, you should get a light in there and reach a finger inside to see what you're working with. There's a very small lip on the seal inside that you need to hook and pull outward. Be careful not to hook the metal lip that is slightly deeper than that because obviously prying on that will get you nowhere.
Its nearly impossible to see what you're doing with the tool in place, but carefully slide the hook inside and feel your way around until you are confident you have it in place to hook the inside lip of the seal, and then use the tool to pry it out. With the tool it was actually quite simple to remove. Before I had the tool and was using a pick set and a flathead screwdriver, it was impossible. So, get the tool... it was only $7.
*It is also very important that you try not to score the inside of the transmission housing that the seal mates up to. For this reason, use the more curved side of your seal puller as it will be less likely to dig outward and damage that outer metal surface. I didn't know this for my first one, but I learned for the second. If you do score the surface, just make sure to put some permatex gasket sealant on the outer portion of your new seal and it should be fine. Be careful not to get any on the inner seal, the axle needs to rotate freely within it.*
Seal has been removed... the wide machines surface is what actually seals and it is important that this is not scored when removing the old seal.
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/10.jpg
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/11.jpg
After you have the old seal out, set the new seal in place by hand. I was able to get mine in a good amount of the way like that and it also allowed me to be careful to make sure it was going in straight. Then, use a 32mm socket, (seal press tool--basically the same idea) and a hammer to tap the new seal home. Be careful not to press it in too far, just make it so its flush with the housing and no farther.
New axle seal installed, flush with surface.
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/12.jpg
Then, I put some grease on the axle stub and carefully slid it past the new seal, into the diff, and tapped it back in with a rubber mallet. Giving it a slight twist as it passes through the seal might help get it past gently.
Axle stub back in transmission, sealing flush with new axle seal.
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/13.jpg
Then I lined up the hole for the lock pin on the stub and axle and slid them back onto each other, and tapped the pin back into place. Reattached my lower strut bolts, abs line, brake line, and put the wheel back on. Lower the car back down to a level surface, fill the transmission with fluid again, and you're done.
Lets start by showing a photo of the tools I needed but didnt have originally. I also could not have completed the job if I had not gone and picked these things up.
-2 foot prybar
-universal seal puller
http://www.bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/1.jpg
It is important to note that you want to use the least aggressive end of the seal puller (the more curved side) if possible, but I will get into that later.
I also needed:
-7/32 punch
-rubber mallet
Here are the replacement seals:
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/2.jpg
First I jacked up the front of the car as high as it would go because I knew I was going to try to fit a large prybar underneath. Then I pulled the tranny fluid drain plug and allowed it to 'drain'. It didnt drain all of the fluid since the front of the car was sky high, but it was enough that when working with the axles none was going to splash out at me unexpectedly.
Then I removed my front wheels, and then removed the 2 lower strut bolts that hold my knuckle onto my suspension, and the abs line and brake line. This allowed the hub to pivot out far enough that I would have enough room to slide the axle out of the transmission.
(*Please not that this next step is proper for pulling axles out of an STi transmission and may not apply to other cars which use a different type of axle/transmission attachment.*)
Then I took said prybar and slid it between the transmission housing and the lip of the green cv joint case, and leaned on it pretty hard until the axle popped out of the transmission.
(*I could have detached the control arm or taken the axle out completely, but I chose not to which is why I had to do what I am about to explain. so this next step may not apply to you.*)
My specific axle has an axle stub (pictured below). Once I popped the axle stub out of the transmission, I took a 7/32nds punch and tapped the lock pin out of the joint right before the green cv joint case. This is what holds the female axle end onto the male axle stub. Once this pin is out I was able to slide the axle off of the axle stub and move it to the side. Then I was able to freely pull the axle stub out of the transmission, revealing the axle seal which needed to be removed.
Here is the original seal in place:
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/3.jpg
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/4.jpg
(My replacement seals were actually different than the original ones, but that was a complication between using a 2006 STi transmission, 2004 Axle Stubs, and 2003 WRX axles... I will go into those differences in post #2 for those interested, but here I will keep it to just axle seal replacement).
So, now that you have the axle seal exposed, you should get a light in there and reach a finger inside to see what you're working with. There's a very small lip on the seal inside that you need to hook and pull outward. Be careful not to hook the metal lip that is slightly deeper than that because obviously prying on that will get you nowhere.
Its nearly impossible to see what you're doing with the tool in place, but carefully slide the hook inside and feel your way around until you are confident you have it in place to hook the inside lip of the seal, and then use the tool to pry it out. With the tool it was actually quite simple to remove. Before I had the tool and was using a pick set and a flathead screwdriver, it was impossible. So, get the tool... it was only $7.
*It is also very important that you try not to score the inside of the transmission housing that the seal mates up to. For this reason, use the more curved side of your seal puller as it will be less likely to dig outward and damage that outer metal surface. I didn't know this for my first one, but I learned for the second. If you do score the surface, just make sure to put some permatex gasket sealant on the outer portion of your new seal and it should be fine. Be careful not to get any on the inner seal, the axle needs to rotate freely within it.*
Seal has been removed... the wide machines surface is what actually seals and it is important that this is not scored when removing the old seal.
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/10.jpg
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/11.jpg
After you have the old seal out, set the new seal in place by hand. I was able to get mine in a good amount of the way like that and it also allowed me to be careful to make sure it was going in straight. Then, use a 32mm socket, (seal press tool--basically the same idea) and a hammer to tap the new seal home. Be careful not to press it in too far, just make it so its flush with the housing and no farther.
New axle seal installed, flush with surface.
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/12.jpg
Then, I put some grease on the axle stub and carefully slid it past the new seal, into the diff, and tapped it back in with a rubber mallet. Giving it a slight twist as it passes through the seal might help get it past gently.
Axle stub back in transmission, sealing flush with new axle seal.
http://bryantroll.com/other/axleseal/13.jpg
Then I lined up the hole for the lock pin on the stub and axle and slid them back onto each other, and tapped the pin back into place. Reattached my lower strut bolts, abs line, brake line, and put the wheel back on. Lower the car back down to a level surface, fill the transmission with fluid again, and you're done.