2005 Sonic Blue Mustang GT - New Parts Installed

[Chris B.]

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/pass-front-corner.jpg

After my 2008 Mustang GT met an untimely demise on NJMP's Lightning circuit in the rain at a track day in April and was declared totaled in May, I started shopping for a replacement car. After researching and test driving different cars, looking at the cost of maintenance, upkeep and preparation for track day events, and other things, I decided to get another '05'-09 S197 Mustang GT.

I bought this one locally and found it on Autotrader. It is a 2005 Sonic Blue Mustang GT with Dark Charcoal interior and 39,000 miles on the odometer.

The car was owned by a local small town police officer, however, he had a few issues with owning it. Every time he floored it, there would be calls to the local police station about one of its officers driving like a nut, so he had to drive it around like he was driving Miss Daisy. When he was wearing his belt with holster, cuffs, and other items, he didn't fit comfortably in the seat because things on his belt would hit the center console and door. Also, its a car that is easy to recognize, so he wasn't comfortable with leaving it parked somewhere because he thought that someone he arrested or gave a citation to may vandalize the car.

I purchased it with the following modifications already installed:

4.10 ring & pinion which replaced the stock 3.55 ring & pinion
Hurst short throw shifter
cold air intake
Bassani X-pipe
SLP stainless steel exhaust
CMCV butterfly valve delete plates
Comp Cams Stage II NSR cams 127200
Steeda underdrive pullies
SCT Xcal3 tuner with custom tunes
Nitto 555 Tires 25540-17 front 275/40-17 rear on stock 17x8" wheels
Tubular rear lower control arms
Tokiko front struts

It also feels like it has an aftermarket clutch, but the person I'm buying it from is the second owner and he doesn't know what clutch the first owner put in the car.
The previous owner also removed his FOP sticker from the window before he sold it.

Planned modifications are:

FRPP Front hubs with ARP wheel studs - Purchased & Installed
ARP rear wheel studs - Purchased & Installed
open ended lug nuts - Purchased & Installed
Koni Sport(Yellow) shocks - Purchased & Installed
Steeda Competition springs - Purchased & Installed
Steeda Camber plates - Purchased & Installed
DBA 4000 series brake rotors - Purchased & Installed
Lambert Automotive brake cooling ducts
Carbotech XP10 Front brake pads - Purchased & Installed
Carbotech XP8 rear brake pads - Purchased & Installed
Kooks custom stainless steel headers with high flow cats and X pipe - Purchased & Installed
Replace the Hurst short shifter with a MGW short shifter - Purchased & Installed
Speed Bleeders - Purchased & Installed
Prothane Motor Mounts to replace the stock worn motor mounts - Purchased & Installed
Pypes mandrel bent over axle pipes - Purchased & Installed
Maximum motorsports 4 point roll bar with removable harness bar
Detroit Truetrac Differential
6 point harnesses
Aluminum driveshaft
Driveshaft safety loop
18x10" wheels with 265/35-18 Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires for dry track use - Already have
18x8.5" wheels with 255/45-18 Continental DWS tires for street use and rain use on the track - Already have

Production data for this car's model year shows the following:
Its 1 of 9,094 Sonic Blue Mustangs made in 2005 and one of 1,920 manual transmission Mustangs GT's made in Sonic Blue for 2005. Sonic blue was only available in 2005 on that body style Mustang.

As a side note, Ford announced they are bringing back Sonic Blue as an optional color for Mustangs in the 2012 model year due to paint supply problems from Japan. Because of everything that happened in Japan, the Black with metal flake is not available for 2012.

[Ender81]

I see you already ordered the MGW shifter, awesome. Still can't believe I got to drive this car. I really love it and I can't wait to see what you do with it on the track.

[Teku18]

Nice. How much of your old stuff did you keep from the totaled car?

[Chris B.]

Nice. How much of your old stuff did you keep from the totaled car?

I kept the eject button and the stock wheels & tires. The track day insurance paid me for the mods that were on the previous car.

[sleeperSL2]

Congrats! I prefer blue over red anyway:mrgreen:

[Got Insulin?]

I see six-point harnesses and a roll bar but no seats. What gives?

[Chris B.]

I see six-point harnesses and a roll bar but no seats. What gives?

I want to keep my side impact airbags since I drive this on the street and its not a track only car. So my options are to get the BOSS 302 seats through FRPP for somewhere around $1100-$1500+ a seat(no price has been released yet) or use the stock seats. Most people use the stock seats with 6 point harnesses if its a daily driver.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/stock-seat-harness.jpg

The ~$3,000 for the BOSS 302 LS seats could be better spent elsewhere, but they do look sweet and they really are comfortable.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/Boss-302-Laguna-Seca-seat.jpg

[cmr076]

excellent! and you probably MADE money I would think buying a modded car AND getting paid for the mods on your old car you will not have to buy again!

[lownslow95]

Looks good. In for future updates.

[Honest_Bob]

Congrats Chris! I love those wheels. :mrgreen:

[Ender81]

Twice now I've driven this car, I think it's part of Chris's plan to convert me to a Mustang owner lol.

[jpalamar]

I have to see this thing. I've been thinking about 4.10s but don't know anyone who has them to see how actually streatable they are. Also was thinking of a NSR cam while I save up for a second set of heads to get ported so I can go with a larger cam.

Love the color also. I honestly can't remember the last time I saw that color on a 3V.

[Erik@R/TTuning]

Good to hear you made out OK through insurance on the previous Stang. Best of luck with this one.

[HickRocket1258]

Great to see you kept to a mustang. Definitely don't see that color around often on that body style.

[JSCspeed]

Nice pick up! Those BOSS seats are definitely worth it!

[Chris B.]

I have to see this thing. I've been thinking about 4.10s but don't know anyone who has them to see how actually streatable they are.


If you do a lot of 1/4 mile drag strip passes with your car on drag radials or slicks, its worth it for the launch. Otherwise, 1st gear is useless for daily driving and 5th is low enough that you turn 3000+ RPM at 80 MPH on the highway.

I'm really thinking that 3.73's are ideal for a dual purpose daily driver and track car. The 4.10 gears are a little much.


Also was thinking of a NSR cam while I save up for a second set of heads to get ported so I can go with a larger cam.


The NSR cam seems to work out well because you don't lose low end power. I'd like to see what and intake, headers, ported heads, NSR cam and the FRPP intake manifold do for power. Without the ported heads and FRPP manifold S197's are getting 340-350+ HP at the wheels with those mods. I'm guessing 370+ to the wheels could be possible based on what I saw with other cams and those mods.

The best combination I saw for a broad power curve with no loss of low end power and plenty of high end power is the ported heads, stock manifold, and cams.


Love the color also. I honestly can't remember the last time I saw that color on a 3V.


I agree. Its a color you don't see often. The Vista Blue seems a lot more common.

[Chris B.]

Twice now I've driven this car, I think it's part of Chris's plan to convert me to a Mustang owner lol.

I think the car is trying to convert you. :lol:

[Slevin]

congrats man, stay safe

[SovXietday]

Good stuff man! x2 on blue vs red. ;)

[fullboost99ex]

bump and thanks again for the help

[Got Insulin?]

I guess I was thinking along the lines of the horror stories of the 6pt harnesses with reclining seats, but I guess a roll bar with harness bar would more or less make the seats act like fixed-backs in the event of a roll, right?

[Ender81]

I would think that would be the case with the full cage and the bar. I would think race seats would still be more ideal but this sollution doesn't look to be as dangerous as just the harness and a stock seat.

[Chris B.]

Its beginning to look a lot like Christmas. Parts are arriving and boxes are stacking up in the living room. The shift knob for the MGW shifter showed up today along with the Speed Bleeders, Steeda camber plates, and my DBA Rotors showed up before I got the car. I'm still waiting for the Steeda Competition springs, Koni Sports and MGW shifter to show up.

The brake cooling ducts are currently out of stock and the Konis are still on backorder.

[Chris B.]

I decided to go with the XP10 front pads and XP8 rear pads instead of the XP12 front pads and XP10 rear pads like I used in the previous Mustang in an attempt to be able to modulate the brakes a little better before engaging ABS. The XP12's are pretty aggressive and on DOT approved tires I could engage the ABS easily at well over 100 MPH on a dry track.

[OneSikEJ8]

those boss 302 seats are real nice .. i'd say get those .. sometimes it takes serious money to get exactly what youre looking for

[Chris B.]

My car was nose to nose with a Camaro outside of the America on Wheels Museum today for Don & Liz's wedding.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/museum1.jpg
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/museum4.jpg
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/museum5.jpg
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/museum7.jpg

[Chris B.]

I ordered the Kooks headers and high flow cats today. I decided to go with the X pipe instead of the H pipe this time. The H pipe sounds better but the X pipe makes more power. It will take about 10 days for the headers to be built and they will arrive in about 2 weeks. I'll be doing somehting a bit unusual to eliminate the exhaust drone that Mustangs with X pipes get on the highway.

I ran into a problem with the Koni shocks. I ordered them from Sam Strano when he was out of town for an AutoX event. He didn't get my order submitted in time for me to get the sale price. Now I have to decide if I want to pay more for the Konis or get the Tokico D-Spec struts and shocks. The only issue I have with the Tokico product is I hear nothing but complaints about warranty replacements if/when they do wear out/break on the Tokicos, but Koni's warranty replacement process is quick and painless.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/scale-weight.jpg


I also stopped by the scale last night to see how this one weighs compared to the 2008 GT I had. Weight with me in it and a full tank of gas is 3680 lbs. Subtract about 180 lbs for me with clothes and boots and 100 lbs for 16 gallons of gasoline and the empty weight of the car is about 3400 lbs. A 2005 Mustang GT with no options is 3350 lbs. Mine has the optional 500 watt factory stereo, optional power driver's seat, and a few optional interior appearance items that make up for the extra 50 lbs. The 2008 GT weighed about 3420 lbs empty. The main difference is both seats in the 2008 were power seats and the 2008 had headers which weigh less than the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds. Looks like the motors add at least 20 lbs per seat.

[Ender81]

Loved having the Mustang out front Chris thanks again for letting me put it up there.

[Chris B.]

Loved having the Mustang out front Chris thanks again for letting me put it up there.

It was nice seeing the Camaro and Mustang and the Lancer and Impreza rivalries in front of the museum.

[Ender81]

Yeah that ended up being pretty cool like that.

[Chris B.]

Something felt a bit off when I was driving the car a couple days after picking it up and the highway gas mileage dropped to 17 MPG. The car already had the check engine light on due to the cams. Sometimes the cams cause the idle to drop lower than expected and the light comes on due to a P0506 code which is "Idle Air Control System RPM Lower Than Expected" and that's normal normal with cams in the newer Mustangs if you don't reprogram the idle RPM range. However the temperature gauge instantly shot up to the middle of warm even though the car was sitting overnight. I knew something else was wrong. Using the SCT X-cal 3 as a code scanner, the P1290 code popped up. That is "Cylinder Head Temp Sensor Low Input."

Newer Ford cars and trucks use cylinder head temperature sensors instead of coolant temperature sensors. The actual coolant temp you see on the dashboard you see in many Fords is inferred from cylinder head temperature. The older Fords used coolant temperature as one of the parameters to determine appropriate spark timing. However that was an indirect method to determine cylinder head temperature and someone had the wise idea to measure cylinder head temperature directly. You can still add a coolant temp sensor to the car, however the engine management doesn't care what the coolant temperature is. If the coolant is too hot, so are the cylinder heads.

After researching the possible causes, I figured that either the sensor was bad or the wiring harness connector was loose where it attaches to the sensor. I let the car sit for a few hours and reached under the intake manifold from the back of the engine to see if the connector for the cylinder head temperature sensor was loose. It wasn't loose and apparently there is something pretty warm under there because I burned my arm while trying to reach for the sensor. No big deal, its healing nicely. :lol:

After determining that its probably the sensor, I picked up a new one for $14 and started the process of replacing the sensor. Its the only sensor that isn't easy to replace and requires taking many other parts off of the car.

I started by taking off the intake, fuel rails, injectors, and intake manifold.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/cht-sensor-replacement/manifold-off-.jpg
*note* you should cover up the ports on the cylinder head to prevent stuff from falling inside. I was working quickly and didn't cover them up, but I also looked inside each port afterwards to make sure nothign was inside that shouldn't be there. A quick and easy way to cover them is 2" wide painter's tape or some spare rags.


This is what the bottom of the intake manifold looks like
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/cht-sensor-replacement/manifold-bottom.jpg


Here is the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor after being loosened and I'm about to remove it.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/cht-sensor-replacement/cht-sensor-location.jpg


And here is the shiny new one in its place.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/cht-sensor-replacement/new-cht-sensor.jpg


Everything is almost back together. The oil was used to lube the injector O rings.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/cht-sensor-replacement/reassembly.jpg


Everything is back together
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/cht-sensor-replacement/reassembeled.jpg


And I have no leftover parts!
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/cht-sensor-replacement/no-leftover-parts.jpg


When taking the manifold off, I noticed that I was missing one of the intake manifold bolts. Its one in the middle on the inside. Whoever put the CMCV/Butterfly delete plates on either didn't tighten it enough and it fell off or they lost it and didn't replace it. I got two new ones and replaced the missing bolt.

[Chris B.]

Yesterday I changed the transmission fluid and flushed out the old brake fluid. The old transmission fluid was purpleish. I wonder if the previous owner used that royal purple crap? Royal Purple transmission fluid seems to be a NoNo in the 2005 and up Mustangs. Everyone that uses the Royal Purple complains about it then says how wonerful the Ford recommended Mercon V or the Tremec recommended Synchromesh is after they change back.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/trans-fluid-change.jpg


The brake fluid was dark, even in the master cylinder, and long overdue to be changed. The brakes felt fine, but I haven't pushed the car hard yet.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/brake-fluid-flush.jpg

I used two bottles of Motul RBF600 to flush the entire system.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/new-old-brakefluid.jpg

[Ender81]

Keeping busy i see Chris lol. I used Royal Purple in my trans until it blew and Andrewtech told me it was softening the seals in my tranny. Don't know how true it is but I haven't taken any chances by using it again.

[DaveSTi]

Nice progress on the maintenance front. RP sucks on the Evo trans too.

[DelayedZ]

Nice progress on the maintenance front. RP sucks.

Fixed that for ya, lol.




And I really need to pick up a mustang, lol.

[Chris B.]

The UPS man has been berry berry good to me!

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/kooks-boxes.jpg

Kooks custom headers with 1-5/8" primaries and 2.5" X pipe with high flow cats. I ordered them on June 7th and got them today. Not bad time considerign when I ordered them there were none in stock and they had to produce a few sets.

[Ender81]

Will they be on for the meet tomorrow? lol

[Chris B.]

Will they be on for the meet tomorrow? lol

I was tempted to install them today, but I don't have a garage and its been scattered rain here.

[Ender81]

Hey a little rain never hurt nobody lol.

[Chris B.]

It feel like my stock motor mounts are starting to wear out. I'll replace then with the Prothane mounts when I install the headers.

[Ender81]

What makes you think they are wearing out? Just curious not doubting.

[Chris B.]

What makes you think they are wearing out? Just curious not doubting.

When I shift when I'm accelerating at part throttle, the car shifts fine. It also shifts fine when the car isn't moving. When I floor it and try to shift fast, I have trouble getting into gear until I'm off the gas long enough for the engine to line back up to a normal position. It shift fine at high RPM at part throttle, but not at full throttle. I replaced the transmission fluid. I didn't have that issue with the two other Mustangs I had with the stock or MGW shifter. I replaced the shifter with the MGW shifter which replaces the shift linkage and all of the bushings. At this point, I'm thinking its either the engine mounts or the transmission mount.

[Chris B.]

Now that the Koni Sports(Yellows as some people call them) arrived, I can get started on the suspension.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/konis-box.jpg

I might replace the front lower control arms later depending on how the stock ones look.

[BIGPHIL]

Hey...new member hear. I read your other topic about what happened to your last car, but glad to see you weren't hurt in the crash...great job on getting another Mustang! :mrgreen:

I do have some thoughts about your new build. I'm a fellow Mustang guy and track junkie. If you haven't installed your struts yet, I would highly recommend getting a set of the gt500 strut mounts to put on at the same time. They will serve you good on the track and are good for a dd car also. Your current and planned mod list seems to be pretty decent so far. The prothane mounts will definitely help out the shifting issues. oh yeah...and next time you change your brake fluid...up it to the DOT5.1...wont hurt and will only do you good as well as some ss brake lines. also...if you get that 1-piece aluminum drive shaft make sure to get an adjustable rear upper control link because you will get some vibrations at speed because your pinion angle will be off with lowering the car (the one from hotpart.com is pretty sweet). well, good luck with the continued build and happy track days!

[Chris B.]

Hey...new member hear. I read your other topic about what happened to your last car, but glad to see you weren't hurt in the crash...great job on getting another Mustang! :mrgreen:

I do have some thoughts about your new build. I'm a fellow Mustang guy and track junkie. If you haven't installed your struts yet, I would highly recommend getting a set of the gt500 strut mounts to put on at the same time. They will serve you good on the track and are good for a dd car also.


I skipped them on my previous car and this car for several reasons. First, they don't offer any more camber adjustment over the stock strut mounts. Second, they don't last much longer than the stock strut mounts. They have basically the same internal construction with the plastic parts that wear down and work loose. Third, the Steeda Camber plates replace the strut mounts and offer 2 additional degrees of adjustment over the stock and GT500 strut mounts.


Your current and planned mod list seems to be pretty decent so far. The prothane mounts will definitely help out the shifting issues. oh yeah...and next time you change your brake fluid...up it to the DOT5.1...wont hurt and will only do you good as well as some ss brake lines.


DOT 5.1 brake fluid has a dry boiling poit of 518 F and the Motul fluid I use has a dry boiling point of 598 F. The only advantage to 5.1 fluid is that its cheaper than Motul RBF 600, but the tradeoff is the much lower boiling point of the 5.1 fluid. I change the brake fluid often enough that the wet boiling point isn't much of a concern.

I plan to change the brake lines when I put in new calipers.


also...if you get that 1-piece aluminum drive shaft make sure to get an adjustable rear upper control link because you will get some vibrations at speed because your pinion angle will be off with lowering the car (the one from hotpart.com is pretty sweet). well, good luck with the continued build and happy track days!


I had the Steeda adjustable rear upper control arm on the previous car. I'm familiar with J&M's parts, but I prefer the UMI roto joints on a daily driver. They aren't as loud as rod end, but offer more movement than a urethane bushing.

[Chris B.]

I noticed one of the stock over axle pipes was cut a few inches back form the stock H pipe and a small piece fo 2.5" pipe was clamped in place. I guess the end of the stock pipe got bent or damaged somehow and instead of replacing it, they replaced a few inches of the front of the pipe. It looked liek it could be a problem in the future, so when I found a great deal on some new stainess steel mandrel bent over axle pipes, I bought them. They arrived this week.

My weekend plans are to put in the motor mounts and suspension bits.

Hopefully the brake cooling ducts arrive in time for Pocono later this month.

[Ender81]

Are the headers on at this point?

[Chris B.]

Are the headers on at this point?

Not yet. I might do a before and after dyno of the headers. Probably next weekend they will be installed.

One of the reasons I want to do a before and after dyno is there is some disagreement in the S197 community on if headers actually give more of a power gain than just adding a good X pipe. No one has ever done a dyno of an X pipe and stock manifolds then headers with an X pipe on the same car to see the actual difference in power. I'm curious too. I really believe that the headers will give me more power than the X pipe does based on my previous results and other S197 owners results before and after headers.

[Ender81]

That'd be really cool to do since you are in a position to do it already.

[Chris B.]

Because I'll be installing the headers this weekend, I decided to get some before and after dyno results. I wasn't expecting much more power out of the 2005 Mustang GT than my 2008 Mustang GT had with just an intake and a tune. The 2008 Mustang GT with an intake and a tune made 295 HP and 312 lb-ft at the wheels. I figured the stock exhaust manifolds would be enough of a restriction that the cams and CMCV delete plates wouldn't give much of a power gain and the car would put down 305-310 HP at the wheels at most.

I guess I was wrong about the stock exhaust manifolds causing that severe of a restriction even though they look like this.

http://www.zx2.org/images/red-mustang/manifold2.jpg

Obviously not a very good flowing design. They are designed more to take up less space and heat up the cats quicker to impreove cold start emissions and not for performance.

The dyno results were 329 HP and 312 lb-ft. on the same dyno that I used to dyno my 2008 Mustang GT.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/dyno-05-GT-1024.jpg
Full size screen capture here. (http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/dyno-05-GT.jpg)
*note: the printout I posted earlier was a different correction factor than my previous dynos on my previous 08 Mustang so the results were updated for comparison purposes.

Other 4.6 3V Mustang owners with mods similar to mine and the long tube headers are getting 330-360 HP at the wheels depending on the cams they used, who tuned the car, if they have an X pipe or H pipe, and the rear end gear ratio. I can't wait to see the results after the headers are installed.

The rear end gear ratio makes a difference because the higher the ratio(numerically) the quicker the rear tires and the rest of the drietrain is accelerated and the lower the dyno numbers are. People that switched from 3.55 to 4.10 gears have noticed a 5-10 HP reduction in power on the dyno with no other changes to the car. Even though the cars with higher(numercially) gears may dyno at less power, they do accelerate faster becaUse they put down more torque to the wheels through gear multiplication.

[DaveSTi]

haha, the Ford log manifolds...oh how I remember thee.

[Honest_Bob]

Damn!

[Ender81]

That's awesome Chris.

[Chris B.]

Last weekend I went to upstate NY and installed the Kooks Custom headers with the help of a friend. We installed the headers on my previous Dark Candy Apple Metallic Red Mustang, so the install went faster this time sicne we knew what we were doing and knew all the tricks to cut down the install time. Including the lunch break, it was under 8 hours to take off all the old parts, remove the battery and battery tray, remove all four O2 sensors, unbolt the engine mounts, jack up the engine, take off the starter and remove more engine mount parts, take off the stock manifolds, then installation was reverse of removal.

Due to the tight spaces in the engine bay and around the headers, some of the bolts could only be turned about 1/6 of a turn at a time and we couldn't fit a gear wrench or socket in there.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/kooks-1024.jpg

This time I went with an X pipe instead of an H pipe. After having both, I think the H pipe deffinitely sounds better, but the X pipe supposedly gives more power. The way I've heard it described before when talking about the S197 Mustang is that the H pipe gives more of the classic muscle car sound(like in the chase scene of Bullitt) while the X pipe is higher pitched and sounds more "exotic."

With the SLP Loudmouth mufflers, the car is earsplittingly loud under bridges and in tunnels. I thought my ears were going to bleed when I went through the Lehigh Tunnel on the Northeast extension of the turnpike with my windows down. :lol:

[Chris B.]

It was a busy day today for me and the car. This morning I dropped off the 18x10 Shelby Redline wheels and Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires to get mounted and balanced. I bought them for the previous mustang, but never used them due to the car being totaled. I picked them up a little before 1 PM then got started on a few other things.

First, I have to get rid of the stock springs and HP Blue struts. They just won't do thiss weekend at Pocono's road course.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/old-spring-1024.jpg

The were replaced with Koni Yellows and Steeda Competition springs. Back in June, I got the last full set of Koni Sport Yellows for the S197 Mustang left in the country. Everyone else had to wait for Koni to produce more, but I didn't want to wait and not have them for the TST track day at Pocono.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/front-koni-1024.jpg

I did run into one issue. My spring compressor broke after I did one front spring and strut, then had to drive out to a local auto parts store to buy another spring compressor. The previous one lasted me for a few installs and reinstalls, but I stripped the threads on one bolt and it became useless. The new spring compressor I bought looks like its built better and hopefully it will last longer.

Next, I put on the DBA 4000 series front rotors. The rotors on the car didn't look bad, but I couldn't tell if they were the cheap made in China replacement rotors that warp easily on the track or something better.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/DBA-rotor-1024.jpg

I replaced the stock, six year old brake lines with Goodridge stainless lines. They were actually dated with a production date in 2005, so I knew they were original.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/brakeline-1024.jpg

Now the front is almost done. The Carbotec XP-10 pads are installed, brakes are bled, and everything is put back together.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/brakes-1024.jpg

Here is the car with the stock rear springs and Steeda Competition front springs.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/front-springs-1024.jpg

It was getting dark and I didn't have time to put on all the other suspension goodies I have tonight, so I just instaleld the rear Steeda Competition springs and the rear Koni Sports, upper control arm, and panhard bar will go on tomorrow. Here is the car with the Steeda Competition springs on the front and rear.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/springs-side-1024.jpg

The tires on the car are shorter in diameter than the stock tires and make the wheel wells look big. Not only does the car have a 4.10 ring & pinion, but the tires are about 6% smaller than stock. They look a bit tiny in those wheel wells and make the 4.10 rear act more like a 4.35 rear.

More parts will be installed tomorrow!

[Chris B.]

I uploaded a video of the exhaust from after the header install. It sounds so aggressive for having one of the mildest cams available for the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swg0Zlv_FRY

[Fenka]

i love this model!!! Would love to here this thing someday!!!

[Chris B.]

Today was another busy day I installing some more parts on the car.

First, the rear Koni Sports went on the car.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/rear-koni-1024.jpg
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/koni-sticker-1024.jpg

The jack is udner the rear diff to lift the rear axle up to the position its in when the car is off the jackstands. This is so that the bolts are torqued to spec in the position they are in when the car is on all four wheels.

Then I installed the rear stainless Goodridge lines and XP-8 pads on the car.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/rear-brakes-1024.jpg

It was a bit messier than I expected changing out the brake lines because I didn't drain the brake system first. The brakes were then bled to get all the air out.

Next, it was time to put on the 18x10" Shelby Redline wheels with 265/35-18 Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/side-shelby-1024.jpg
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/redline-wheel-1024.jpg
These tires are also smaller diameter than stock tires and look small in the wheel wells.

I'm glad I got the 265 width Pilot Sport Cups instead of the 285 width Pilot Sport Cups. They tend to run wide. Here one 265/35-18 Pilot Sport Cup is next to a 275/40-17 Nitto NT555R.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/tire-width-1024.jpg

Here it is on the car. I;m glad I went with the "skinny" tires. I'm not sure if the wider ones would fit.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/front-corner-tire-1024.jpg

[jesse096]

Car is coming along nicely! Sounds mean for such a mild cam.

-Jesse

[Chris B.]

I'd like to thank Khellen and Rob(Tensen on another forum) for the great pics of my car at Pocono this past weekend.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/finish-line-pocono.jpg

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/Mustang-img_5838copy2.jpg

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/Mustang-img_5808_copy1.jpg

The car worked great at Pocono. Im getting use to the new track tires, but haven't found the limit of their grip too often. They are much stickier than the AD-08's on the last car.

[Erik@R/TTuning]

Gotta love the evolution of the blue car Chris. The guys from the shop that were out there this weekend said you looked great out there at Pocono.

[Chris B.]

Gotta love the evolution of the blue car Chris. The guys from the shop that were out there this weekend said you looked great out there at Pocono.

Thanks! That's good to hear.

[Chris B.]

I went back to the same shop and dynoed the car to get dyno results for after the headers. The car gained about 18 HP and 8 ft-lbs of torque for peak results. At some parts of the RPM range it gained 20 HP and 16 ft-lbs of torque. Overall, I'm happy with the results.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/dyno-headers-comparison-1024.jpg
Larger version of the dyno results screen capture (http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/dyno-headers-comparison.jpg)

The only thing I plan to do for power mods is a tune designed for the cams I have. Programming the variable camshaft timing for these cams by advancing the cam timing at lower RPM will get me more low end and mid range power. Also, the car can probably gain power with a newer tune. The tune I'm running was written for the car a few years ago before it had the cams.

There are some people who claim that on the S197 Mustangs, an aftermarket X pipe with the stock manifolds give the same power as headers with an X pipe. I guess they were wrong since my car already had a Bassani X pipe on it and it still gained power.

[Ender81]

Pretty cool you could do the before and after dyno.

[Chris B.]

Today I found the myspace profile of the original owner of my car. I haven't found him on facebook yet because he has a common name. I sent him a message on myspace hoping that he actually replies because I have a question about what cams are in the car, but I'm not too hopeful because it looks like he hasn't logged in since 2009. The car could have one of 4 or 5 different cams that Comp Cams made for my car and it would help with tuning in the future if I knew what cams it had without taking them out of the car to read the grind/model number.

[Ender81]

That's cool you found him hopefully he gets back to you.

[jpalamar]

I'm guessing you didn't get lucky and find the cam card in the owners book or anything?

[Chris B.]

I'm guessing you didn't get lucky and find the cam card in the owners book or anything?

Nope, not that lucky. That's where I found the first owner's name and address on a receipt for some work at a shop.

[Ender81]

I wonder if the shop could look up the work that was done on the car.

[Chris B.]

I wonder if the shop could look up the work that was done on the car.

On the receipt it says it was to replace the clutch slave cylinder.

[Chris B.]

When I was at AREA1320 today, something popped into my head.

One of these things is not like the others,
One of these things just doesn't belong,
Can you tell which thing is not like the others
By the time I finish my song?

Did you guess which thing was not like the others?
Did you guess which thing just doesn't belong?
If you guessed this one is not like the others,
Then you're absolutely...right!

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/Area1320-lift.jpg


I decided to install the AEM Wideband O2 sensor and gauge that I won at the R/T Tuning dyno day and Benefit for Max2k1back in March and I needed a bung welded onto the exhaust.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/wideband-sensor.jpg

Now all I need is for my triple gauge pod A pillar trim panel to arrive so I can install the gauge for the wideband along with the oil temp and oil pressure gauges.

[RyanG]

haha Don just told me about this :P

[Erik@R/TTuning]

Glad to see it went to a good home.

[Chris B.]

Today I finished the install of the AEM UEGO air/fuel ratio gauge

First I removed the stock A pillar trim to see how much room I had to get wires up there. It seemed to be plenty of room.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/af-gauge/a-pillar.jpg

I'm replacing the stock A pillar with a Speed of Sound (http://www.speedofsoundllc.com/2005-upMustangPod.html) triple gauge pod A pillar. The color matches perfectly because they are modified Ford OEM A pillars.

Next, I connected the wire to the O2 sensor under the car and ran it up under the car to the passenger side wheel well area.

Then I took out the wheel well trim to find the firewall plug closest to the A pillar.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/af-gauge/wheelwell.jpg

The plug has a rubber nub sticking off of it that you can use to run additional wires after cutting off the tip.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/af-gauge/nub-firewall.jpg

I cut the tip off my nub.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/af-gauge/cut-nub.jpg

I had to cut the hole a bit wider to fit the connector through the hole in the plug. Then I put a zip tie around it to close the extra gap around the wire.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/af-gauge/nub-ziptie.jpg

This is the same firewall plug with the wire running through it. The arm for the clutch pedal is off to the right.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/af-gauge/firewall-interior.jpg

Then I ran the power wires under the dashboard over to the passenger side and connected it to an inline 10 amp fuse on a circuit that goes on and off with the ignition. I was amazed that the instructions say to use a 10 amp fuse, but the wiring doesn't include one.

I put the wheel well liner back in and put the rest of the interior parts back in place.

Now its finished and working.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/af-gauge/af-done.jpg

I have to decide what to fill those two other gauge pods with. Maybe a pair of Aeroforce Interceptors (http://aeroforcetech.com/products_interceptor.html) since they will tell me most of what I need to know.

[Honest_Bob]

Nice work as usual Chris!

[bmatyeah]

Dude the aeroforce interceptors are so sick, you can have so much displayed (i had to do a lot of research on the to help our web copyright prepare them). They are basically they only gauge you need. The duel setup looks great.

I'm glad you went with speed of sound, we just brought them in too and it seems they are some of the best.

[Chris B.]

Dude the aeroforce interceptors are so sick, you can have so much displayed (i had to do a lot of research on the to help our web copyright prepare them). They are basically they only gauge you need. The duel setup looks great.

I'm glad you went with speed of sound, we just brought them in too and it seems they are some of the best.

Do you work for American Muscle? I remember there being at least one Mustang owner on here that does. I ended up getting the Speed of Sound gauge pod/A-Pillar from the with a forum discount. It was a lot cheaper than buying it directly from SOS.

[Chris B.]

I'm seriously considering selling my 17" Bullitt Wheels and my 18" Fanblade wheels and buying a different set of wheels for my daily driver tires. I have too many sets of wheels sitting around. I'd want an 18x8.5 or 18x9" wheel that is lighter than the 18x8.5" fanblade wheels for the 255/45-18 tires I currently use.

Some of the wheels I'm considering are:
Grey Motegi MR125 in 18x9
Grey TR Motorsport C2 in 18x8.5
Silver ASA AR1 in 18x9
Black or Grey Bullitt style wheels in 18x8.5 or 18x9
Gold XXR 527 in 18x8.75
Gold XXR 522 in 18x8.5
Black with metallic blue lip XXR 006 in 18x8.5
Grey Ford GT 18x9" replica wheels

[Teku18]

Sweet looking install dude.

[sleeperSL2]

Xxr 527

those fan blades would look nice on the Fusion:mrgreen: LOL

[Chris B.]

I finally got in contact with the original owner and found out the car has Comp Cams Stage 2 NSR 127200 cams grind number XE261LH-15.5.

Duration: 261/278
Duration @ 0.050": 222/235
Intake valve lift: .450
Exhaust Valve Lift: .450
Lobe Separation Angle: 115.5°

[Chris B.]

I finally was affected by that hurricane from last weekend. I got a flat tire driving over some tree debris in the road that weren't cleaned up yet. I guess this is a sign to get those new wheels and tires I was looking at.

[AJ Hartman]

Hey Chris. Glad to see your incident at NJMP hasn't slowed you down. Let me know if you need a hand with anything on your car. I'm sure I'll see you at an event soon enough.

[Chris B.]

Hey Chris. Glad to see your incident at NJMP hasn't slowed you down. Let me know if you need a hand with anything on your car. I'm sure I'll see you at an event soon enough.

Thanks! I'll be at Pocono on Sunday with NASA. They are running the double infield course.

[AJ Hartman]

yeah thats what I heard. Not in the budget for me to race this weekend. I will be at NJMP at the end of october tho.

[Chris B.]

The car worked great at Pocono today on the double infield course. I figured out what tire pressures the Pilot Sport Cup tires like best and everything kept getting better. It was great passing the Vipers and Corvettes.

I had my brake rotor temps shot in the pits and they were 890 F front and 780 F rear. It looks like the XP-10 and XP-8 pads I'm using will work just fine for those temperatures. The XP-10's on the front will handle 1750 F and the XP-8's will handle 1350 F. I guess I should get the brake cooking ducts on the car soon.

[Chris B.]

I picked up some new muffler's today. The loudmouths will be coming off the car soon.

[Ender81]

I picked up some new muffler's today. The loudmouths will be coming off the car soon.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KHvGKN4z3TA/ThZxVXY_jHI/AAAAAAAAAug/1Om_ic-V5Oc/s1600/DarthVaderNooo.jpg

[jpalamar]

What mufflers did you pick up?

[Chris B.]

What mufflers did you pick up?

I got a pair of stock 2006 Mustang GT mufflers. I liked the way the stock mufflers sounded on the 2008 GT with the headers and these sound good too. They are quiet when the car is idling and cruising, but the exhaust is still loud when I floor it. Later on, I may upgrade to some other mufflers, but not something as loud as the loudmouths.

[Chris B.]

Apparently Real Time Attack (http://realtimeattack.com/) likes my car. Its in their NJMP event photo behind the civic on their front page now and it was in their Pocono event video even though I never participated in their events.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/rta-oct302011.jpg

[John Torres]

Are you racing on Oct 30,2011 with Nasa. If so. Than your in for the Real Time Attack event.

[Chris B.]

Are you racing on Oct 30,2011 with Nasa. If so. Than your in for the Real Time Attack event.

Nope. I won't be there. Also RTA events seem prohibitively expensive compared to time trials with other groups.

[Chris B.]

It's the same price as other run groups. Plus you get media attention that you don't get from other Run groups. The way it works. It's by signing up at a NASA event from hpde2, hpde3, hpde4 and TT drivers can participate. And than pay your one year membership with Real Time attack which is a one year membership. Other events will keep you in the shadow and your name will never be heard. But with real Time Attack your name can get to be know. All of the Real Time Attack driver are getting to be know by many driver's and fans out there. Plus most of them are getting sponsor by other shop and product company and media outlets. So who told you that it's expensive. When you just pay for a Nasa event. And your in with Real Time Attack. You pay only one price to Participate both event, NASA event and Real Time Attack event is one event.

Do you work for Real Time Attack? I can participate in NASA time trials all over the country almsot every wekend of the year without paying any fees to an outside group. At some of the RTA events earlier in the season there was a registration fee to pay to both NASA and also to RTA for the event. Has that changed for the most recent event?

I have won national drag racing events in the past and had sponsorship for those cars I won the events in. The prize money and contingency money I won paid for modifications, and parts upgrades. I also was also testing and developing new parts before they were released. I really don't care if my name is heard or how much publicity I get.

[Chris B.]

Last night, the car hit 50,000 miles while driving on I-78 on the way home from the NYC area.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/50000-miles.jpg

I'm working on a belly pan to replace the one that the 2005-2008 Mustangs had. I mentioned it in my 2008 GT build thread here:
http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1930481&postcount=98

I'm planing on designing and building my own instead of adapting the 2010 GT parts to fit. If it works well, I'll make a template to make more for others to use on their '05-'09 GT's.

[John Torres]

There was no fee to pay. You just sign in your name for the 3 round. And that's it. I do this for fun. Congratulation on your victory

[Chris B.]

There was no fee to pay. You just sign in your name for the 3 round. And that's it. I do this for fun. Congratulation on your victory

If there was no fee to pay, then why were so many of the driver complaining that they had to pay both a NASA fee and a real time attack fee along with memberships to both groups at the April event?

This really doesn't belong in my build thread, but I'm curious why so many drivers had to lay out all this extra cash and you are saying there is no extra fee.

[Slevin]

That's false clam.

i love false clam

[sean3]

Note to self: if I ever decide to have someone represent my organization on a forum, make sure they can post coherent English.

[Chris B.]

It's sound like you don't like the guy's at http://RealTimeAttack.com Your can't turn one driver into many. And the end of the day he sign up. Plus that was the $50 for the transponder rental and membership all in one price. Which NASA charges $75 for the transponder and $50 for there membership.

I'm here too help drivers get Notices or get sponsor. Plus there was no fee in the April event. Nobody was charge a membership fee in April. Were did you get that. That's false claim. Plus do you think you can compete with the Real Time Attack drivers. Then come on down. And find out if your the best.

Back in April at the event, I talked with several of the drivers participating in the event that I know. All of them said the same thing about how expensive it is. They said that they had to pay both RTA and NASA for event fees and memberships. Some of them didn't show up to Pocono because of the high cost and did time trials with other groups instead.

[Chris B.]

I'm trying to decide how far back I want to put the custom sheet metal on the underside of the front of the car. The photo below is the underside of a Boss 302 LS. It also has a front splitter which sticks out past the front bumper.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/Mustang-underside-options.jpg

I was originally going to put the sheet metal back to line 1. However if I extend it to line 2 that will go back to the back of the oil pan. I just need to make sure the sheet metal doesn't interfere with suspension travel.

[John Torres]

WOW awesome picture.

[mckpat03]

Is the gain really going to be worth the extra hassle of the extra large and cumbersome piece when trying to work around it or uninstall/install it?

[Chris B.]

Is the gain really going to be worth the extra hassle of the extra large and cumbersome piece when trying to work around it or uninstall/install it?

My stock piece broke and fell off the car and replacing it cost more than the sheet metal cost to do this. There is nothing to work around. If I extend it to the back of the oil pan, then I can still reach the drain on the back of the oil pan. I can reach the oil filter through the side above this piece or make an easy to remove piece for the one oil change every 7,000-8,000 miles. There are no other regular maintenance items it would be covering.

Also, with the stock short underside pieces, the Mustang has a some lift and noticeable hood flutter at high speed. Everyone that either used the 2010 pieces or made their own pieces says the lift and hood flutter is gone afterwards.

[Chris B.]

I have a little play in my shift linkage and its been getting worse over time. I took out part of the shift linkage today after I found out what part was loose. Even with all the bolts tightened properly, there was still some play in the part that connects to the transmission. It seems that one of the two piece bushings in the linkage is worn in the middle where the two pieces meet.

I haven't found the part number for the bushing from Ford yet, but it looks like I can just put a washer behind the nut on the linkage and hopefully that will eliminate the play in the linkage. It will probably be easier and cheaper than replacing the bushing.

[Big_Jim]

Apparently Real Time Attack (http://realtimeattack.com/) likes my car. Its in their NJMP event photo behind the civic on their front page now and it was in their Pocono event video even though I never participated in their events.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/rta-oct302011.jpg


Just saw this...... Must have been a huge Dividing Creek for them to spell it with 3 E's

[mckpat03]

My stock piece broke and fell off the car and replacing it cost more than the sheet metal cost to do this. There is nothing to work around. If I extend it to the back of the oil pan, then I can still reach the drain on the back of the oil pan. I can reach the oil filter through the side above this piece or make an easy to remove piece for the one oil change every 7,000-8,000 miles. There are no other regular maintenance items it would be covering.

Also, with the stock short underside pieces, the Mustang has a some lift and noticeable hood flutter at high speed. Everyone that either used the 2010 pieces or made their own pieces says the lift and hood flutter is gone afterwards.

Well I'd be going with option two then. Looking forward to more updates on it.

[Ender81]

Extend it back Chris and then you can drill holes to access the drain plug, filter, etc... It's how my skid plate is setup and I rarely have to take it off. Ryan does though lol.

[jpalamar]

I have a little play in my shift linkage and its been getting worse over time. I took out part of the shift linkage today after I found out what part was loose. Even with all the bolts tightened properly, there was still some play in the part that connects to the transmission. It seems that one of the two piece bushings in the linkage is worn in the middle where the two pieces meet.

I haven't found the part number for the bushing from Ford yet, but it looks like I can just put a washer behind the nut on the linkage and hopefully that will eliminate the play in the linkage. It will probably be easier and cheaper than replacing the bushing.

Is this what your looking for? http://www.cjponyparts.com/PROTHANE-SHIFTER-BUSHING-URETHANE-PAIR-2005-2009/p/HW2818/

Maybe time to upgrade to an MGW shifter :cool:

Extend it back Chris and then you can drill holes to access the drain plug, filter, etc... It's how my skid plate is setup and I rarely have to take it off. Ryan does though lol.

That would make oil changes easier, but I think that might take away some of the function of the belly pan.

[Ender81]

Well it depends on how far you want to take it because you could go the extra mile and make covers for the holes but that does seem excessive lol.

[mckpat03]

is this what your looking for? http://www.cjponyparts.com/prothane-shifter-bushing-urethane-pair-2005-2009/p/hw2818/

maybe time to upgrade to an mgw shifter :cool:



That would make oil changes easier, but i think that might take away some of the function of the belly pan.

mgw ftw.

[Chris B.]

Is this what your looking for? http://www.cjponyparts.com/PROTHANE-SHIFTER-BUSHING-URETHANE-PAIR-2005-2009/p/HW2818/


Nope that's not the bushings I'm looking for


Maybe time to upgrade to an MGW shifter :cool:


The MGW shifter was one of the first modifications I put in this car.


That would make oil changes easier, but I think that might take away some of the function of the belly pan.


I'll have to see how easy it would be to add some sort of quick release fasteners if I extend the pan back further. The stock K member has a few spots where I could add them.

Depending on how far back I extend it, I cold add a transmission cooling scoop. However I don't want it to cover the cats under the car.

[Chris B.]

I'm planning to get 3.55 rear end gears swapped in over the winter. While the rear is apart, I'm either going to have the stock clutch pack LSD rebuild with the GT500 carbon fiber discs or have a Detroit Truetrac Differential installed.

I really wanted to put in the Quaife LSD, but its currently out of production for the 31 spline 8.8" Ford rear end and it would take 15 pre orders for the US distributor to put it back in production. There probably would be a minimum of a 3 month wait after the pre orders are all paid before anyone sees their differential. Its hard to get 15 Mustang owners to part with $1400 for a differential in this economy. The Torsen T2R diff looks good, but many people have been having issues with them in Mustangs and Camaros. The housing breaks or the diff wear out prematurely. Many people have reported the diff acting like an open diff and large amounts of metal shavings in their diff. The Eaton Posi LSD is a good differential, but lately people have been breaking them in Mustangs too. The only time Truetrac diffs seem to break in the Mustang is when its an 11 second or faster car that is launched hard on slicks. Since I'll never be launching my car on slicks I don't have to worry about that.

I'm also looking at swapping out my rear lower control arms. The ones I have now are just regular urethane bushings and they have high roll stiffness. The rear end doesn't feel as planted during transitions on some tracks as my previous mustang did. My '08 had rear lower control arms that had a spherical bushing which had lower roll stiffness.

[denmah]

buy a detroit tru trax they are phenominal only arond 400 dollars you can get them in 28 and 31 spline

my friend has a 9 second mustang that makes 715rwhp, its auto now, but it had 600rwhp before and he would bomb that rear off the TK0 5 spd with a sintered iron st5 clutch and it would yank tire.

never had a problem with the tru trax

[denmah]

i had a detroit C locker in my mustang and it was incredibly agressive but i ****ing loved it, they are about 650.

[caldwell]

whats up with that exhaust on the 302 ? looks like 4 exit points ??

sorry to be off topic, im just really curious ?

[jpalamar]

I'm planning to get 3.55 rear end gears swapped in over the winter. While the rear is apart, I'm either going to have the stock clutch pack LSD rebuild with the GT500 carbon fiber discs or have a Detroit Truetrac Differential installed.


You have 4.10s and want 3.55s. I have 3.55s and want 4.10s. :wink:

[Chris B.]

whats up with that exhaust on the 302 ? looks like 4 exit points ??

sorry to be off topic, im just really curious ?

The Boss 302 has both side and rear exit exhausts. The side exit exhaust come with removable restrictiors to reduce the noise level. You can either remove the restrictiors or drill the holes int hem bigger to let more unmuffled noise out the side.

[Chris B.]

You have 4.10s and want 3.55s. I have 3.55s and want 4.10s. :wink:

I'm planning to replace the LSD and maybe swap some other parts, so unfortunately just swapping axle assemblies don't work well for me. Also, I don't think you want 4.10's with a worn out factory LSD that needs rebuilding.

[SoStock92]

Just read the whole thing - looks like fun. Do you happen to have a PN# on the cylinder head temp sensor? I might be able to use something like that. Would be interesting.

[Chris B.]

Just read the whole thing - looks like fun. Do you happen to have a PN# on the cylinder head temp sensor? I might be able to use something like that. Would be interesting.

I don't have the part number, but AutoZone carries them along with the Ford dealer. It was pretty cheap, between $10 and $15.

[Chris B.]

Over the winter, I have some planned maintenance on the car. The car is seven years old now and a few things are starting to wear.

The rubber boots on the ends of my rear parking brake cables are cracking and letting water inside. I figure I should replace them before anything starts to rust. The rear trunk gas filled lift supports are starting to leak and lose their ability to lift the trunk lid up. They are cheap and easy to replace. I noticed that my front brake pads wear a little more on the outside edge than the inside edge. It seem that with the years of use and heat cycling that they are a little stretched or misshapen, so I'll replace the calipers. While I'm doing the rear brake cable, I might as well replace the rear calipers too as preventative maintenance. Over the supper, one of my exhaust clamps worked loose without me noticing and the exhaust tip was resting against the rear bumper cover during a long trip. It caused the bottom edge of the bumper cover to melt a little. Then I recently had the wonderful experience of someone hitting my car in a parking lot and driving off. That damaged the paint on the corner of the rear bumper cover. Some of the scratches go though the primer. So I'll be getting a new bumper cover and having it repainted. A new rear bumper cover is $199.95 plus paint.

The big issue is that my spark plugs are the original spark plugs. Ford claims they last 100,000 miles before needing replacement, but I've never seen 100,000 mile plugs actually look good at anywhere near 100,000 miles. SO, I'll be replacing them. The problem is that Ford originally used 2 piece spark plugs in the Mustang and many other modular motor vehicles. During the 2008 model year in the Mustang, Ford switched to one piece plugs. Some people have had the issue of the bottom part of the plugs, below the threads, breaking off and staying inside the heads when the plugs are removed. There is a special tool to remove them. So, I ordered the broken spark plug removal tool in case any break and I'll be purchasing some new one piece plugs. To remove the two piece spark plugs in one piece, its recommended that you remove the coils, spray around the spark plugs with carb cleaner or liquid wrench, let the car sit for 30+ minutes, spray around the plugs again, then loosen the plugs 1/4 turn and spray around the plugs again, then let them sit another 30+ minutes before removing the plugs. The carb cleaner or liquid wrench is suppose to loosen any deposits that might cause the plugs to stick in the holes. I've been told that since I have a low mileage car, it shouldn't be an issue, but I bought the broken spark plug removal tool just in case.


New front calipers: $99.99/pair with pads
New rear calipers: $149.98/pair
New parking brake cables: $132/pair
New spark plugs: $80 for 8 plugs
New trunk lift supports: $19.99/pair

Total: $481.96
I guess that's not too bad in maintenance costs for a 7+ year old car.

[Chris B.]

I was planning on getting a Detroit Truetrac Differential for the Mustang, but Wavetrack finally released their differential for the 8.8" 31 spline Ford application. Its worked very well for other people and has has a lifetime warranty. Also it helps resolve the issue that Torsen diffs have when one wheel has no traction. When a typical torsen diff has no traction, it loses traction completely. Imagine one rear wheel off the ground or on wet ice. Torsens work by multiplying torque. So if you have no torque on one wheel, you have no traction. The wavetrac diff has internal parts that move when zero load/traction on one wheel occurs to provide enough internal torque to transfer torque to the wheel that does have traction. I know a few people that have them on 9 and 10 second cars with Ford 9" rear ends and they haven't had any issues with them. Also the lifetime warranty is a nice feature. It does cost about twice as much as a Detroit Truetrack, but doesn't require any modifications to fit the Mustang like the Truetrac does.

http://www.wavetrac.net/technical.htm

Of course, I could always go the inexpensive route and have the stock LSD in my car rebuilt with a GT500 carbon fiber clutch pack for $120. The only issue is that I may need to have it rebuilt again in a few years.

[Chris B.]

I changed my spark plugs. My car still had the original 2 piece spark plugs in. Many people with Ford cars and trucks with the 3 valve V8's have had the issue where the bottom piece of the two piece plug stays stuck in the cylinder head when you remove the spark plug because it seized to the aluminum head. I bought the broken spark plug removal tool in case that happened.

First I got the supplies ready
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/spark%20plug%20supplies.jpg

Then I used the compressed air to blow away all the dirt around the eight ignition coils. After removing the ignition coils from the plugs, I used the compressed air again and blew out any dirt from around the plugs. Then I loosened each plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn and sprayed carb cleaner into the hole around each plug filling it up to the ceramic. The carb cleaner is suppose to dissolve the deposits around the plug making it less likely to break and leave the bottom piece in the head.

After letting the carb cleaner soak in for 30 minutes, 4 of the 8 plugs came out easily. So the 4 plugs that were hard to turn I moved then back and forth 1/4 turn in each direction several times. Then I sprayed more carb cleaner in each hole and let the plugs soak for another 30 minutes.

Letting the plugs soak for another 30 minutes must have been a good idea. With patience and a little luck, I got all eight spark plugs out in one piece.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/spark%20plugs.jpg

I put in new plugs made of a different metal compound which resists carbon buildup after rubbing anti seize all over the lower part of the plug, except near the electrode. Then I torqued each plug properly and put the coils back on. The car started up and runs great.

[Jackolafedon]

Chris if your interested in selling the removal tool for the broken spark plug tips lemme know. No one at my current shop has one so its something I may consider picking up. Did you get the aftermarket one piece plugs (champion)? or stick with an oem replacement 2 piece design?

[Chris B.]

Chris if your interested in selling the removal tool for the broken spark plug tips lemme know. No one at my current shop has one so its something I may consider picking up.


I'm not sure yet if I'm keeping it. Its not an expensive tool. I found it for $55 online. Instead of the tool made by Ford, I got the one made by Lisle. The people that used both said the Lisle tool works better than the Ford tool.


Did you get the aftermarket one piece plugs (champion)? or stick with an oem replacement 2 piece design?


I used the two piece Autolite HT1 plugs. Quite a few Mustang owners complained about the Champion plugs. Not only are they the most expensive plugs for the car at $20 each, the wire in the center tends to wear out quickly or break. Some people had to replace 4 of the 8 plugs after 5,000 miles. Brisk makes one piece plugs for the car and so does E3. The E3 plugs are cheap, but I'm not sure if they are some sort of gimmick with their weird design. Nobody has had an issue with the Autolite plugs sticking and breaking because they are made of a different material than the OEM Ford plugs. Of course, two days after I replaced the spark plugs, Autolite started selling one piece plug for the Ford 3V engines.

[jpalamar]

You haven't had any issues filling up the gas tank? Mine worked randomly and only let me go like 1/2 way full and towards the end it was getting really bad. From what I read, it was a common issue but a cheap fix.

[Chris B.]

You haven't had any issues filling up the gas tank? Mine worked randomly and only let me go like 1/2 way full and towards the end it was getting really bad. From what I read, it was a common issue but a cheap fix.

I only have issues at certain pumps. It seems that some pumps put a lot of air in with the gasoline and that is a big cause of the issue. If I run into a problem, sometimes turning the nozzle 90 degrees or 180 degrees fixes it. I had no issue on my 2008 because Ford updated the filler neck some time in the 2006 model year.

[Chris B.]

I noticed an improvement driving the car for a couple of weeks. I do the same trip to NJ and back once a week and take the same route to and from work. Most of my driving is done late at night or early in the morning, so its rare for me to get stuck in heavy traffic. I'm at work before rush hour starts and leave work after rush hour. At first I thought it was just a random occurrence that my gas mileage went up, but over the last three tanks, my gas mileage has gone up from 18 MPG to over 19 MPG in the combined city/highway driving. It looks like my 4th tank in a row is also going to be above 19 MPG. That's combined city/highway driving over the same route the same number of days per week. I don't use the onboard computer to calculate MPG. I use the odometer and the gallons of gas put in the car to top it off to calculate MPG.

I haven't changed the way I drive or the speeds I drive. I also use the same gas station and usually the same pump for filling up the tank. Changing the spark plugs must have increased my gas mileage. I guess the 100,000 mile plugs Ford puts in the cars really don't even last 50,000 miles if there was a noticeable and consistent change in MPG.

I do miss the gas mileage that the red 2008 Mustang GT was able to get, but this Mustang has 4.10 gears, CMCV butter fly valve deletes, and cams all which reduce fuel mileage.

[Chris B.]

I've been asked by multiple times something along the lines of, "Since you use your Mustang on the race track, why don't you add subframe connectors?"

Subframe connectors were needed on the 1979 to 2004 Mustangs because they had a weak chassis that was shared with the 1978 Ford Fairmont. Sure there were some updates along the way, but there are many parts for the Mustangs that say they fit 1979 to 2004 models along with the 1980's Ford LTD and the Ford Fairmont. The 2005 and up Mustangs use a completely different chassis that was a new design. It doesn't share any significant parts with the old model. Also, none of the professional teams road racing Mustangs add subframe connectors and neither do the CMC and American Iron racers.

There was an SAE article recently that summed it up pretty well:
"The '05 Mustang GT's torsional rigidity figure was 21,000 NM/degrees, which was more than the McLaren F1, and almost DOUBLE that of the BMW E46 M3 and the last 911 Turbo. The 2010 version improved on that a bunch, and the 2011 incrementally improved again. The lack of flex in the chassis is a MAJOR contributor to solid handling and the feeling of solid construction."

So basically when McLaren F1 owners and the pro race teams using Mustangs feel that they need to add subframe connectors then maybe I'll look at getting them too.

[Chris B.]

I've run into an issue with street tires. Back in the beginning of September, 2011, I damaged one of my Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires running over some debris from that hurricane at the end of August. My tires have 7/32 to 8/32" of tread left on them. Not bad for 25,000 miles of use. I was going to replace the flat tire and one other tire to have two new tires. I was going to keep the one used tire that wasn't flat for a full sized spare. Getting the tires replaced wasn't a priority because I have several sets of wheels and tires and use snow tires for winter. New Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires have 11/32" of tread depth. I didn't want to put one new and one worn tire on the same axle, even though it shouldn't be an issue with the ABS or traction control, so that's why I was going to buy two.

I put off getting new tires until the spring since I run snow tires for the winter. Now Continental has a 6 to 8 week back order on these tires. I was told by several tire vendors that mid to late April is the earliest they can get this tire in that size. I can't find anyone with them in stock. I also have been searching eBay for a used Continental ExtremeContact DWS tire of the same size, but haven't had any luck.

I'm not a fan of mixing different brands and models of tires on a car because of how it affects the handling. The differences in sidewall stiffness, tread pattern, and tread compound sometimes give unusual handling results. I was going to also use the Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires as my rain tires for track day use since the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires I have don't work well in the rain, especially when they are 50% worn. The DWS tires are amazing in the rain. I have the Nitto NT-555 tires that came with the Mustang, but they are awful in the rain, even on the street. I wouldn't want to use them on the track as rain tires. I can get a set of Hoosier Radial Wet tires for track use for under $500 shipped, but I don't have room to bring two sets of R compound tires with me in the car to a track day.

At this point, I either have to wait to do track days until I get the Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires after they are off of back order, or get a set another tires if I want to do track days before the end of April unless the weather cooperates. I guess I could always hope there are spots available for me to sign up for track days at the last minute and make sure the weather forecast is for 0% chance of rain.

[jpalamar]

I'm waiting for my PS2's to wear out. It shouldn't take long and then I'm switching to some DWS too. Them being back ordered is nothing new though. When Julie was about to order a set for the HHR SS they weren't available.

They are great tires though.

What sizes are you looking for. I have a buddy that might be able to source some for you.

[Chris B.]

255/45-18 is the size I'm looking for.

[jpalamar]

He doesn't have any in stock and confirmed he can't get them currently either.

[Chris B.]

He doesn't have any in stock and confirmed he can't get them currently either.

Yea, that's what I heard from every major tire retailer and small shop so far. They are a popular tire and production can't keep up with demand.

[Chris B.]

Some new parts arrived yesterday.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/torque-limiter.jpg

My CHE K Member Brace and Drivetrain Torque Limiters (http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-208.htm) arrived. After I put in the Prothane engine mounts, the transmission mount would move more under hard acceleration and sometimes make shifting worse because it was getting all the torque from the drivetrain twisting since the Prothane engine mounts don't move. Combined with a worn shifter bushing, sometimes I'd have to take my foot completely off the gas for a long time between shifts to shift from 2nd to 3rd gear. This will help resolve that issue.

My other option was a solid transmission mount, but I really didn't want a solid piece of stainless steel connecting my transmission to the chassis in a daily driver. I've been told that it sounds as noisy as straight cut gears since it transmits every single drivetrain vibration and noise to the car in between the front seats.

Here is a picture of the K Member Brace and Drivetrain Torque Limiters installed on a Mustang.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/CHE-K-Brace.jpg

Also, my new brake calipers and trunk gas struts arrived.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/new-brakes-trunk-props.jpg

I got new calipers, caliper brackets, brake pads, brake lines, and heat shields that were taken off a car that was sent from the Ford factory to an aftermarket Mustang tuner and had the stock brakes taken off to have a six caliper big brake kit installed. Due to the popularity of aftermarket conversions of Mustangs from Shelby, Steeda, Roush, VGMS/RTR, and Saleen, the parts they replace are sold very cheap. Total price for all of the brake parts was under $100.

I'm also getting new rear calipers soon.

Since I have two sets of new wheels on the way(updates on that later) which will make the brakes very visible, I decided to paint the new calipers. I had a discount coupon for some G2 Caliper paint (http://www.g2usa.com/product/G2.html) and got the paint in gloss blue. I thought about getting the G2 paint in Sonic Blue Pearl Coat to match the car, but that was an extra $60 for the custom color matching.

[Chris B.]

I installed the CHE K member brace and drivetrain torque limiters today.

First I installed the K member brace using the four provided bolts.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/k-brace.jpg

Then I removed two bell housing bolts.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/bellhousing%20bolt.jpg

The torque limiters were installed one at a time.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/torque%20limiter.jpg

Here are the K member brace and torque limiters installed.
http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/k%20brace%20torque%20limiters%20installed.jpg

After installing the parts, I took the car out for a drive. I can shift much faster now due to there being less drivetrain twisting, especially at high RPM.

[sleeperSL2]

awesome install !

[Jah1mon]

Awesome build! I love the attention to detail with the install of parts.

I love the new designs of these mustangs but I'm have a hard time getting over there size. After driving foxbody cars for a while these seem so much larger.

[Tberryjr]

not a fan of mustangs but this one is nice

[Chris B.]

I have been looking for a used Continental ExtremeContact DWS tire to replace the damaged one, but I have been unsuccessful. every eBay listing I've found for the tire has been the lighter load index version. I have the 103 load index version of the tire. The others I've found used are 96 load index. I didn't know Continental made a light load version of the tire. The softer sidewall may have an effect on handling.

I guess I'll have to wait until someone has the tires back in stock. Summit Racing, Tirerack, and Discount Tire Direct all now say they might have the tires in stock within 2 weeks.

[Chris B.]

I found a shop in California that claims to have two new 255/45-18 Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires in stock and they will ship them tomorrow. Their price was lower than Tirerack and with shipping came out about the same price overall. Of course Tirerack now says they will be in stock tomorrow too.

Hopefully that means I'll have the new wheels on the car soon!

[Chris B.]

Apparently I bought the last two 255/45-18 103Y Continental DWS tires in the country. At least that's what the shop in California I bought them from says.

The tires have been on back order since last fall through most tire retailers. Tirerack was occasionally able to get a few of them, but even Tirerack hasn't been able to get them for a while. Everywhere else is also out of stock and Continental doesn't have a date on when they will be available since they aren't going to be in production again until April or maybe later.

The shop in California I ordered them from bought one tire from one tire retailer and one tire from another tire retailer then shipped them to me. Best part is the price with shipping was less than Tirerack and Discount Tire Direct. They claimed they were the last two tires of that size and load rating left in the country. No other tire retailers have them in stock and there aren't any on eBay. With the difficulty I've had finding the tires, I'd believe it that they are the last two.

I guess I'll keep one of the non punctured tires as a spare.

[Chris B.]

I purchased the brake cooling duct kit today. Quantum Motorsports changed their name to Lambert Automotive Performance Products. They are expanding and selling more than brake cooling kits now and changed their name to reflect that. The best part is the brake cooling kit was on sale!

[Chris B.]

When I bought the Mustang at the end of May 2011, it has 39,000 miles on the odometer. On April Fool's day, the odometer read 59,000 miles. Its been a fun and enjoyable 20,000 miles in 10 months.

[Ender81]

I can't believe it's been almost a year already.

[Chris B.]

I can't believe it's been almost a year already.

Want to drive it again on a holiday weekend?

[Ender81]

You know I don't, any other weekend sure lol.

[Chris B.]

The tires arrived today, so I had them mounted and balanced on the new wheels. I got a set of Matte Black & Machined Aluminum AMR wheels (http://www.americanmuscle.com/machined-amr-18x9-0512.html) from Americanmuscle.com. They weigh about 3 lbs. per wheel less than the stock 18x8.5" wheels.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/wheels-side-1024.jpg

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/wheel-angle-1024.jpg

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/wheels-angle-1024.jpg

[sleeperSL2]

Looks great chris! What're ya doin with the stockers? lol

[Chris B.]

Looks great chris! What're ya doin with the stockers? lol

Thanks!

No idea what I'm doing with them. I may save two for drag radials. I thought about selling the TPMS sensors and sell the two other wheels for scrap since nobody likes the Mustang fanblade wheels and two are curbed.

I've been trying to sell the stock 17" Bullitt wheels too.

[sleeperSL2]

Hmm. If you're out tomorrow night we'll chat. lol

[Chris B.]

Hmm. If you're out tomorrow night we'll chat. lol

I'll be there tomorrow!

[Ender81]

They look good Chris.

[Ender81]

Hmm. If you're out tomorrow night we'll chat. lol

I'm pretty sure your bolt pattern is 5x100 and Chris's is 5x114

[Chris B.]

I'm pretty sure your bolt pattern is 5x100 and Chris's is 5x114

They might fit the Fusion or he might have to invest in a drill press to get them on the Subaru. Silver Ford Bullitt wheels would look interesting on a Subaru wagon.

[Ender81]

They may fit the fusion you're right.

[Big_Jim]

almost positive fusion wheels are 5x114.3

[jpalamar]

If your looking to donate a wheel I'll take one LOL.

Would be cool to have something to practice repairing and refinishing to see if I have to skills to do it myself or not.

[Erik@R/TTuning]

Lighter and better looking than the stockers! Great choice in wheel for the car.

[Jah1mon]

Wheels look sharp, especially with this color car.

[Chris B.]

Back in February, a woman who shouldn't be driving backed into my car at the gas station. Not that she shouldn't be driving because she is a woman, but because she has a torn ligament and a leg brace and she has had difficulty hitting the brake pedal. She told me that this isn't her first accident caused by the torn ligament and leg brace. She dented the front of the hood and scuffed up the paint on the front bumper on the Mustang. Originally they wanted to pay for it out of pocked instead of involving insurance, but after 3 and a half weeks I didn't receive a penny toward the repairs, so I filed a claim with their insurance company. I recently received a check from their insurance company for the damages.

The 2005-2009 Mustangs have an issue with the hood lifting and wobbling at high speeds due to air being trapped under the hood. The hood never becomes unlatched and its not a safety issue. The 2010+ models have this happen less frequently due to differences in aerodynamics. For the 2005-2009 cars, adding a longer belly pan from under the front bumper to the rear of the oil pan helps and so does adding a louvered hood. This reduces front end lift and also reduces drag. I originally was going to have the hood and bumper repaired and repainted. However, I'm thinking of getting an aftermarket carbon fiber hood and maybe and aftermarket bumper cover.

Because the stock Mustang hood is aluminum, most of the aftermarket fiberglass hoods weigh more than the stock aluminum hood. To prevent adding unnecessary weight to the car, I'd need to add a carbon fiber hood if I went with an aftermarket hood. Most of the carbon fiber hoods of good quality are in the $700-$900 price range.

Some of the aftermarket front bumper covers have larger brake duct cooling air scoops than I can fit easily in the stock bumper. This may be beneficial for track days.

Between the cost of the carbon fiber hood, locking hood pins, aftermarket bumper cover, and paint for the aftermarket bumper cover, it would cost a few hundred dollars more than repairs to the stock parts. I'm undecided if its worth the cost.

[sysfailur]

I vote for powdercoating to somewhat replicate this monster:

http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/IMG_3537_0xtx_2.jpg


More pics: http://www.speedhunters.com/2010/01/car_feature_ford_mustang_rtr_gittin/

[Chris B.]

I vote for powdercoating to somewhat replicate this monster:

http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/IMG_3537_0xtx_2.jpg


More pics: http://www.speedhunters.com/2010/01/car_feature_ford_mustang_rtr_gittin/

I actually can get 18" RTR wheels or I could have bought the wheels I have int hat color, but I think the wheels don't look as good in the darker color with the dark, pearl coat shifting paint my car has.

[Chris B.]

The Mustang's odometer rolled past 64,000 miles on memorial day. I bought the car with a hair over 39,000 miles last year on Memorial day weekend. 25,000 miles in the first year I owned it!

Unfortunately, due to my work schedule, not as many of those miles were on the track as I planned. I'll have to change that this year. In the next few weeks I'll be installing some new parts on the car to get ready for many track days this year.

[dnasty2g]

The Mustang's odometer rolled past 64,000 miles on memorial day. I bought the car with a hair over 39,000 miles last year on Memorial day weekend. 25,000 miles in the first year I owned it!

Nice! You do alot of driving! I got mine last June with 26k and just rolled 37k last week.

[Chris B.]

I ended up going with getting the stock hood and stock bumper repaired and repainted instead of going with aftermarket parts when getting the car repaired after the lady backed into me. The hood I wanted is the Tiger Racing Super Louver hood. Its one of the few lightweight and functional hoods for the S197. However, its about $1,200 plus shipping, hood pins, and paint. Its a real race car part and not a look at me I'm fancy carbon fiber part. Its meant to be painted. Even though it reduces front end lift and is lighter than the stock hood, I wasn't ready to invest that much money in a hood at this time. I also can reduce front end lift by making my own front end under tray like I mentioned before.

I added the Quantum Motorsports brake cooling ducts to the car before the Tristate Tuners track day at NJMP. Unfortunately, my clutch slave cylinder and throwout bearing went out during the track day. Ford uses a combination hydraulic slave cylinder/throwout bearing assembly on the transmission input shaft. Usually it works well without any issues and lasts longer than the clutch. However mine started leaking and I left the track day early. On the way back to the hotel, the leak was bad enough that I couldn't bleed the air out of the system. I was able to make it back to the hotel by just using 2nd gear. I used AAA Plus and had the car towed to a shop near my home. I didn't want to lay on a hot black driveway and yank a transmission on a 90+ degree day to replace a slave cylinder, so I decided to pay someone else to do it. While the transmission was out to replace the slave cylinder, the shop owner asked if I wanted a new clutch. I thought about it and they offered me a very good price on the whole package deal of slave cylinder, clutch kit and flywheel resurfacing, so I had the clutch replaced with a Ram Powergrip clutch rated for 550+ HP/550+ lb-ft. at the wheels. The stock clutch looked like it had quite a few miles left on it, but I also wondered if any fluid leaked into it from the leaky slave cylinder.

I was thinking about going with a twin disc setup, but in reality, I don't need a clutch that can handle 800-1000 ft-lbs of torque at the wheels. The main advantage to a twin disc setup for me would be the clutch pedal is actually lighter than stock, which may be nice for daily driving in stop & go traffic. I'll probably not do any more than 5-8 PSI if I turbocharge or supercharge this car since I primarily use it for road course use and daily driving. Adding more than that much power will require brakes that are big enough that I'd need new wheels. The clutch will easily hold that increase in power if I do go with a low boost forced induction setup. The clutch pedal is a little stiffer than stock, but its not bad at all in stop & go traffic. It feels lighter than aftermarket clutches in most 4 cylinder turbo cars I've driven.

Yesterday, I saw the odometer roll over to 66,666.6 miles when I was coming home from the Air & Space Museum's Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center by Dulles Airport.

I also recently replaced the parking brake cables so that the car won't have any issues next winter. I got them on sale form a Ford dealer that gives a forum discount and ended up getting the cables for about 30% off. Now all my planned maintenance is completed.

[Chris B.]

Its been a while since I updated this. I have some new parts on the way. :)

The car handled 300 miles at Virginia International Raceway last month like it was my daily commute.

The odometer rolled over to 73,000 miles yesterday.

[Ender81]

Racking up the miles Chris, may be time to trade it in on a GT500 hehehe

[Chris B.]

Racking up the miles Chris, may be time to trade it in on a GT500 hehehe

The odometer rolled over to 75,000 miles last night. I'll have to see what the 2015 Mustang is like before I decide on getting a GT500 or Boss 302 LS.

[Ender81]

I saw that picture from Car and Driver. I wouldn't say no to it.

[Chris B.]

I bought my first Boss302/GT500 part for this Mustang. The 2013 GT500/Boss302 differential cover. It has the cooling fins to help keep the rear diff cooler. I had this one drilled and tapped for drain and fill plugs and to relocate the rear axle vent. The stock fill plug is located on the front of the diff and is hard to get to. This will make changing the differential fluid easier. Also, if I ever needed a rear differential cooler, I can easily hook one up.

http://www.zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/gt500-diff-cover.jpg

[sleeperSL2]

Shiny!

[Chris B.]

Back in the end of October, one of my front wheel bearings started getting noisy. I was thinking of getting the ARP wheels studs for the car. A pair of new hubs with the bearings was $132 from Ford and the ARP wheel studs normally cost $99-$109. Then I opened up the Ford Racing Performance Parts catalog and got the part number for the FR500 Mustang's wheel hubs and found a Ford dealer selling them for $175 plus shipping. They include the ARP wheel studs. Its nice when race car parts are cheaper than street car parts. I installed them in the beginning of November.

Out with the old...
http://zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/wheel%20hubs%20old.jpg

In with the new...
http://zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/wheel%20hubs%20new.jpg

I also replaced the tie rod ends. I stuck with an OEM style replacement. The roll center relocation kit won't allow me to use 17" wheels or else I would have installed one.

I also wanted to replace the 4.10 rear gears with 3.55 gears so that I'd have a 1st gear that was useable for something other than 7000 RPM launches on 315 width slicks and so that the car would be more useable on road courses. I ordered all the parts:
3.55 FRPP gear set
GT500 clutch pack diff rebuild kit
All new diff bearings and axle bearings
ARP wheels studs for the rear axle
friction modifier
synthetic gear oil
and a few other miscellaneous bits

Also I had that shiny new Boss302/GT500 differential cover I ordered over the summer and never put on the car.

I dropped it off at a friend's shop in December to have the new gears put in and the diff rebuilt Originally the job was only going to take a day. Unfortunately, the shop that put in the 4.10 gears when a previous owner had the car apparently damaged a bearing when they put the new diff in and didn't replace the bearing. The bearing started wearing in an unusual way and it left metal shavings and chunks all over and it also allowed the axle to wobble as it wore. The metal bits floating around damaged the differential gears. I was lucky I decided to get it replaced when I did because it wouldn't be much longer until large chunks started coming off the bearing and might have locked up the rear as I was driving the car. The wobbling form the worn bearing also wore an axle in an unusual way and damaged the pinion gear. The pinion gear splines actually had a wavy pattern to them.

I ended up also needing a new axle. I thought about getting a set of Moser axles, but I'm not going to be doing high RPM launches with a 700 WHP car, so I decided to get a new replacement from Ford. Luckily my friend had the stock diff from his 2003 Cobra sitting around the shop, so I didn't have to order a new diff carrier.

I didn't get good pictures of all the damage, but I here are a couple that show the damage to the teeth.
http://zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/diff%20damage.jpg
http://zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/diff%20damage%202.jpg

The axle assembly was completely disassembled and cleaned. The only original parts in it are the housing and the passenger side axle.

Here is the car before the rebuilt axle goes back in. You can see the shiny new diff cover with cooling fins.
http://zx2.org/images/sonic-blue-mustang/lift-axle.jpg

Now the car has a useable 1st gear and I'm getting 2-3 MPG better gas mileage on the highway.

[Chris B.]

I'm traveling a lot more for work now and don't have much time to do track days. I'm thinking about selling the car.

[Chris B.]

I'm traveling a lot more for work now and don't have much time to do track days. I'm thinking about selling the car.

Because I haven't had much time for track days, I ended up trading in the Mustang. With the traveling for work I did, the car had over 134,000 miles on it before I traded it in. I towed 4x8 and 5x8 U-Haul trailers long distances with it including Allentown, PA to Houston, TX and back.

The Mustang needed a lot of regular maintenance work due to its age, track use, and miles(bushings, control arms, tie rod ends, etc...). Also, it needed new clutch packs for the rear diff. In addition to that, the Mustang was hit in the side, by the rear wheel, by an old lady who ignored a stop sign and drove out into a 4 lane main road. The car never felt right after that even though all the repairs were done properly according to a highly recommended body shop. I'm pretty sure something was bent in the rear, but I didn't have time to take everything apart in the rear suspension and axle assembly to compare it to a straight edge. The car needed an alignment to drive straight after the accident. Yet, the body shop couldn't find anything wrong with the rear suspension. I didn't feel safe taking the car to the track again until I could figure out what was wrong with the rear end. I was debating doing all that work or just getting something new and ended up getting a great deal on something new.

The dealer gave me a good price for the Mustang and I got a CPO 2016 Ford Fusion Titanium in Ruby Red Metallic for a daily driver. The Fusion was a dealership manager's car so he took the depreciation hit. I got the Fusion for $14,000+ under the original sticker price and a few thousand less than others with similar options sold for in the area recently. Not bad for a car that was hardly used and just turned 1 model year old. I ended up getting the Ford 7 year/100,000 mile extended warranty. The dealership gave me the lowest price I could find on the factory extended warranty. I'll be going back to school for another master's degree soon and need a reliable and comfortable daily driver.

I love the technology the Fusion has. Adaptive cruise control, lane keeping system, blind spot info system, cross traffic alert, etc..

I sometimes miss the Mustang. However I think the Fusion will be better for road trips and as a daily driver.

I read that some Fusion owners aren't getting the EPA mileage with the 2.0 Ecoboost. However I averaged 33+ MPG on 3+ hour road trip at 75+ MPH and I did a bunch of shopping and errands yesterday around town and got just under 22 MPG with a lot of time spent sitting at traffic lights in stop and go traffic.

I don't have much planned for the Fusion so I don't think there will be a member journal for it.