Marino.
04-10-2011, 11:12 PM
Hey guys, so for the past few months ive been trying to diagnose this problem in my free time, and its really pissing me off. Any help is extremely appreciated.
Heres a brief synopsis to what happened. Jump to red text for most important info.
So one day im going to lunch, and when i go to get back to school my car starts, sputters a bit, and then dies. When i go to start it again it just cranks but wont start. Im pretty sure that it was getting fuel because i can hear the pump going. At this point i was assuming it was spark. So i ruled it out as either my ignitor or my ecu. The ecu had no burn marks on it, but the ignitor failed 4/6 of the fsms tests. So i assumed it was the ignitor.
I got a tow home, and by now the battery was dead from constantly cranking the motor.
So i ordered another ignitor on ebay. When i got it i tested it and it failed 1/6 tests in the fsm. So I assumed it was ok. I pluged it in and jumpstarted the car. It started right up. I shut it off and turned it back on a few times to make sure it was good. Each time it started perfectly. Then just for kicks i put the old ignitor back in and tried to start it up. It started again! Thus ruling out the ignitor that i originally had.
ECU wasnt throwing any codes
Plugs looked like this
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6933/imag0073h.jpg
Car was obviously running rich. I do have the walboro fuel pump and the z32 filter, but other than that everything fuel wise is stock. I also changed my O2 sensor.
So next i got a tomei fpr, and set it to factory level, some new copper plugs, and a wideband which constantly reads 14.5-14.7 at idle. I also changed my cracked ecu plug, and through on my pbm intercooler.
The car WAS starting consistently, but when it starts now the engine barely idles, and then after a few seconds it runs normal. It used to start and idle perfectly the second i put the key to the start position.
So as a test before i start driving the car to school and other farther places, i decided i should just drive locally for errands and stuff. I was at my friends house working on his s13, and when i got in my car to go home it did the same thing it originally did. It started for a sec, then sputtered to a stop. Then crank no start. Again.
How the new plugs were looking
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/116/imag0177a.jpg
So everytime this happens, the car starts when i remove the fuel relay. This is technically "clear flood mode". Also if i rev the engine when it starts and is about to die the car starts to idle normally.
So right now im calling it leaking injectors, flooding my engine out and then it wont start flooded, unless i force it into clear flood mode, or if it barely starts up give it some gas and it burns up all the extra fuel.
If i hold my foot on the gas while starting, the car wont go into clear flood mode, so maybe my tps is bad too?
Anyone think they can help?
Heres a brief synopsis to what happened. Jump to red text for most important info.
So one day im going to lunch, and when i go to get back to school my car starts, sputters a bit, and then dies. When i go to start it again it just cranks but wont start. Im pretty sure that it was getting fuel because i can hear the pump going. At this point i was assuming it was spark. So i ruled it out as either my ignitor or my ecu. The ecu had no burn marks on it, but the ignitor failed 4/6 of the fsms tests. So i assumed it was the ignitor.
I got a tow home, and by now the battery was dead from constantly cranking the motor.
So i ordered another ignitor on ebay. When i got it i tested it and it failed 1/6 tests in the fsm. So I assumed it was ok. I pluged it in and jumpstarted the car. It started right up. I shut it off and turned it back on a few times to make sure it was good. Each time it started perfectly. Then just for kicks i put the old ignitor back in and tried to start it up. It started again! Thus ruling out the ignitor that i originally had.
ECU wasnt throwing any codes
Plugs looked like this
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6933/imag0073h.jpg
Car was obviously running rich. I do have the walboro fuel pump and the z32 filter, but other than that everything fuel wise is stock. I also changed my O2 sensor.
So next i got a tomei fpr, and set it to factory level, some new copper plugs, and a wideband which constantly reads 14.5-14.7 at idle. I also changed my cracked ecu plug, and through on my pbm intercooler.
The car WAS starting consistently, but when it starts now the engine barely idles, and then after a few seconds it runs normal. It used to start and idle perfectly the second i put the key to the start position.
So as a test before i start driving the car to school and other farther places, i decided i should just drive locally for errands and stuff. I was at my friends house working on his s13, and when i got in my car to go home it did the same thing it originally did. It started for a sec, then sputtered to a stop. Then crank no start. Again.
How the new plugs were looking
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/116/imag0177a.jpg
So everytime this happens, the car starts when i remove the fuel relay. This is technically "clear flood mode". Also if i rev the engine when it starts and is about to die the car starts to idle normally.
So right now im calling it leaking injectors, flooding my engine out and then it wont start flooded, unless i force it into clear flood mode, or if it barely starts up give it some gas and it burns up all the extra fuel.
If i hold my foot on the gas while starting, the car wont go into clear flood mode, so maybe my tps is bad too?
Anyone think they can help?